Tubeless wheelset recommendation
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,993
Bikes: Argon 18 Gallium, BH G7, Rocky Mountain Instinct C70
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 800 Post(s)
Liked 512 Times
in
306 Posts
Second the recommendation for Boyd wheels. I've emailed Boyd Johnson several times and he's always replied. Excellent wheels and excellent customer service.
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. He's on the list, for sure.
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 6,887
Bikes: Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS, Trek CheckPoint SL7 AXS, Trek Emonda ALR AXS, Trek FX 5 Sport
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked 1,747 Times
in
1,017 Posts
It slipped my mind, but I was meaning to ask you guys about those. I had the page opened up earlier today and was checking to see if anyone local carried them. Any idea if they're hookless or hooked? Can't really tell by looking at the pictures.
And a side question for you or anyone else that may care to answer. How big a difference is there in feel between the 24 point engagement on the Bontrager and, say, the 66 point engagement on something like the Firecrest Zipp's? I wonder if it's a noticeable difference. I was looking into a pair of Onyx Vesper's earlier today and the thought of instant engagement sent me down this rabbit hole.
EDIT: Nevermind. Seems as though they're "slightly hooked."
And a side question for you or anyone else that may care to answer. How big a difference is there in feel between the 24 point engagement on the Bontrager and, say, the 66 point engagement on something like the Firecrest Zipp's? I wonder if it's a noticeable difference. I was looking into a pair of Onyx Vesper's earlier today and the thought of instant engagement sent me down this rabbit hole.
EDIT: Nevermind. Seems as though they're "slightly hooked."
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Posts: 1,803
Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Levo SL, Norco Bigfoot VLT
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
Liked 182 Times
in
118 Posts
I'm all about hubs so I'd wait and get the Chris King set, or just buy the hubs and build a set. I'm rebuilding my R45 wheels, removing the CX ray spokes and DT 411 rims, and replacing with D-Light spokes and Easton R90SL rims. I found two rims and am waiting for the remaining one to come in.
#31
Junior Member
Thread Starter
On a side note, I had no idea about the TLR strip. From an outsiders perspective, it seems like a game-changing method of going tubeless. I was ready to botch up the job using rim tape, but the installation was super easy using the strip. Just click into place and you're all set.
Quick question, though. Have you ever had to install a tube on the road because of a puncture? And if so, did you remove the TLR strip or just add the tube over the strip? Seems like it would be a super tight fit with the strip, if it's even possible.
I've also heard it recommended that you don't reinstall a removed TLR strip, I assume because the overall integrity will somehow be negatively affected? Not sure on that, though. Either way, this is said in the event that a tube is absolutely needed when sealant, patches and things like dynaplugs don't work. Any thoughts?
I'm all about hubs so I'd wait and get the Chris King set, or just buy the hubs and build a set. I'm rebuilding my R45 wheels, removing the CX ray spokes and DT 411 rims, and replacing with D-Light spokes and Easton R90SL rims. I found two rims and am waiting for the remaining one to come in.
I've already got my wheels, so I'm going to hold off on going custom for now. I've definitely been taking notes of everything you guys have said thus far, though. I'll have to do some more research and hopefully can come up with a list of components I'd like to use, but I do have a question for you since you're into hubs. Between the Chris King, the Onyx Vesper and the DT Swiss 240, which of the three would you choose and why? Does it boil down to preference or are they ratable in terms of quality?
Last edited by Ataylor; 05-14-21 at 01:45 AM.
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 6,887
Bikes: Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS, Trek CheckPoint SL7 AXS, Trek Emonda ALR AXS, Trek FX 5 Sport
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked 1,747 Times
in
1,017 Posts
Sorry...just saw this post. Super glad to hear the positive reviews from you as well as others. Got my wheels a few days ago, but haven't had a chance to install and ride them just yet.
On a side note, I had no idea about the TLR strip. From an outsiders perspective, it seems like a game-changing method of going tubeless. I was ready to botch up the job using rim tape, but the installation was super easy using the strip. Just click into place and you're all set.
Quick question, though. Have you ever had to install a tube on the road because of a puncture? And if so, did you remove the TLR strip or just add the tube over the strip? Seems like it would be a super tight fit with the strip, if it's even possible.
I've also heard it recommended that you don't reinstall a removed TLR strip, I assume because the overall integrity will somehow be negatively affected? Not sure on that, though. Either way, this is said in the event that a tube is absolutely needed when sealant, patches and things like dynaplugs don't work. Any thoughts?
On a side note, I had no idea about the TLR strip. From an outsiders perspective, it seems like a game-changing method of going tubeless. I was ready to botch up the job using rim tape, but the installation was super easy using the strip. Just click into place and you're all set.
Quick question, though. Have you ever had to install a tube on the road because of a puncture? And if so, did you remove the TLR strip or just add the tube over the strip? Seems like it would be a super tight fit with the strip, if it's even possible.
I've also heard it recommended that you don't reinstall a removed TLR strip, I assume because the overall integrity will somehow be negatively affected? Not sure on that, though. Either way, this is said in the event that a tube is absolutely needed when sealant, patches and things like dynaplugs don't work. Any thoughts?
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Posts: 1,803
Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Levo SL, Norco Bigfoot VLT
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
Liked 182 Times
in
118 Posts
I have only used tubeless 7-8 times and am getting ready to do so again with my new Easton rims once my wheels are rebuilt (CK R45 hubs). I have never had to install a tube though I had one puncture on the fragile Schwalbe Pro Ones. That one puncture sealed itself. I always carry an extra tube even on my MTB rides (plus Dynaplugs whenever tubeless).
I use both Chris King and DT 240 hubs. The latter is easier to maintain with no specialized tools (if you do your own maintenance) but I have a slight preference for the sound of the Chris Kings and they feel more solid when pedaling due to the engagement. They are no more solid than the DTs but it just feels that way. I am not an Onyx user so I tend to stick with the CKs or DTs. I also like colors so Chris Kings give me that option.
I use both Chris King and DT 240 hubs. The latter is easier to maintain with no specialized tools (if you do your own maintenance) but I have a slight preference for the sound of the Chris Kings and they feel more solid when pedaling due to the engagement. They are no more solid than the DTs but it just feels that way. I am not an Onyx user so I tend to stick with the CKs or DTs. I also like colors so Chris Kings give me that option.
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Palm Desert, CA
Posts: 2,504
Bikes: Speedvagen Steel
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 429 Post(s)
Liked 248 Times
in
156 Posts
Sorry...just saw this post. Super glad to hear the positive reviews from you as well as others. Got my wheels a few days ago, but haven't had a chance to install and ride them just yet.
On a side note, I had no idea about the TLR strip. From an outsiders perspective, it seems like a game-changing method of going tubeless. I was ready to botch up the job using rim tape, but the installation was super easy using the strip. Just click into place and you're all set.
Quick question, though. Have you ever had to install a tube on the road because of a puncture? And if so, did you remove the TLR strip or just add the tube over the strip? Seems like it would be a super tight fit with the strip, if it's even possible.
I've also heard it recommended that you don't reinstall a removed TLR strip, I assume because the overall integrity will somehow be negatively affected? Not sure on that, though. Either way, this is said in the event that a tube is absolutely needed when sealant, patches and things like dynaplugs don't work. Any thoughts?
Good luck with your new build. Hope you enjoy it.
I've already got my wheels, so I'm going to hold off on going custom for now. I've definitely been taking notes of everything you guys have said thus far, though. I'll have to do some more research and hopefully can come up with a list of components I'd like to use, but I do have a question for you since you're into hubs. Between the Chris King, the Onyx Vesper and the DT Swiss 240, which of the three would you choose and why? Does it boil down to preference or are they ratable in terms of quality?
On a side note, I had no idea about the TLR strip. From an outsiders perspective, it seems like a game-changing method of going tubeless. I was ready to botch up the job using rim tape, but the installation was super easy using the strip. Just click into place and you're all set.
Quick question, though. Have you ever had to install a tube on the road because of a puncture? And if so, did you remove the TLR strip or just add the tube over the strip? Seems like it would be a super tight fit with the strip, if it's even possible.
I've also heard it recommended that you don't reinstall a removed TLR strip, I assume because the overall integrity will somehow be negatively affected? Not sure on that, though. Either way, this is said in the event that a tube is absolutely needed when sealant, patches and things like dynaplugs don't work. Any thoughts?
Good luck with your new build. Hope you enjoy it.
I've already got my wheels, so I'm going to hold off on going custom for now. I've definitely been taking notes of everything you guys have said thus far, though. I'll have to do some more research and hopefully can come up with a list of components I'd like to use, but I do have a question for you since you're into hubs. Between the Chris King, the Onyx Vesper and the DT Swiss 240, which of the three would you choose and why? Does it boil down to preference or are they ratable in terms of quality?
#35
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I have not had any instance to this point where I have had to put in a tube, but my understanding is that any tubeless is less than pleasurable trying to put a tube in. I understand that if you remove the strips, Bontrager recommends to replace them. However, I have also been told that people have removed them a couple of times and reused without complaint. I thought about that before and wondered if tape would be a better solution, but again, until I come across that bridge, I am not too worried about it. The strips are working perfectly for me.
I have only used tubeless 7-8 times and am getting ready to do so again with my new Easton rims once my wheels are rebuilt (CK R45 hubs). I have never had to install a tube though I had one puncture on the fragile Schwalbe Pro Ones. That one puncture sealed itself. I always carry an extra tube even on my MTB rides (plus Dynaplugs whenever tubeless).
I use both Chris King and DT 240 hubs. The latter is easier to maintain with no specialized tools (if you do your own maintenance) but I have a slight preference for the sound of the Chris Kings and they feel more solid when pedaling due to the engagement. They are no more solid than the DTs but it just feels that way. I am not an Onyx user so I tend to stick with the CKs or DTs. I also like colors so Chris Kings give me that option.
I use both Chris King and DT 240 hubs. The latter is easier to maintain with no specialized tools (if you do your own maintenance) but I have a slight preference for the sound of the Chris Kings and they feel more solid when pedaling due to the engagement. They are no more solid than the DTs but it just feels that way. I am not an Onyx user so I tend to stick with the CKs or DTs. I also like colors so Chris Kings give me that option.
Oh, okay. Thanks for sharing. Was it more difficult or time consuming than replacing a regular tube without the TLR strip? In other words, did the thickness of that strip somehow make it more difficult to install? Or, outside of removing the valve, did it feel like a "normal" tube replacement? And what tires do you use?
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Posts: 1,803
Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Levo SL, Norco Bigfoot VLT
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
Liked 182 Times
in
118 Posts
Ataylor- I am the same. I have geeked out on hubs for a long long time. I started in the mountain biking world, and used a lot of them. After some years, Chris King and Hadley became my favorites. I tried Hopes, White Industries, DT Swiss, Industry Nines, and some of the lesser-know brands. DTs were solid and reliable but had much less engagement than Hadleys, Kings, and Industry Nine. I have had zero issues with Kings or Hadleys or for that matter, DTs. On the road, the engagement matters much less for me, or not at all for most. So DTs and Kings are it. I9s have a lot fo drag and are a bit annoyingly noisy. I don't know if Hadley does a road hub...probably not. So I ended up sticking with the two I use now. Kings can be blingy and DTs are understated. I have had some of both for over ten years with zero issues. That is my experience from around 2000 so I don't stray anymore. I have never built a super light wheelset since I weigh 175ish, or I would know more about the super light hubs. I sort of wish I did but the thought of a flexy wheelset is not appealing either. If I used super light hubs, it would make sense to use light rims too. With our fast descents topping 50-55 MPH and huge drop-offs usually on one side, I thought it would be pointless with too much downside. Anyway, hubs are the most fun to geek out over in the rosdbike world (in the MTB world, it is suspension and geometry) so have fun.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Palm Desert, CA
Posts: 2,504
Bikes: Speedvagen Steel
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 429 Post(s)
Liked 248 Times
in
156 Posts
Gotcha! Thanks much for the info. I appreciate it.
Thanks. My fascination with hubs has grown faster these past few weeks than probably anything else bike related. Don't know why. Will need to dig a bit deeper to find out a bit more about them and what differences can be found between brands.
Oh, okay. Thanks for sharing. Was it more difficult or time consuming than replacing a regular tube without the TLR strip? In other words, did the thickness of that strip somehow make it more difficult to install? Or, outside of removing the valve, did it feel like a "normal" tube replacement? And what tires do you use?
Thanks. My fascination with hubs has grown faster these past few weeks than probably anything else bike related. Don't know why. Will need to dig a bit deeper to find out a bit more about them and what differences can be found between brands.
Oh, okay. Thanks for sharing. Was it more difficult or time consuming than replacing a regular tube without the TLR strip? In other words, did the thickness of that strip somehow make it more difficult to install? Or, outside of removing the valve, did it feel like a "normal" tube replacement? And what tires do you use?
Basically, what I'm saying is that should the need arrive to install a tube roadside, the rim strip will not be the issue, it'll be the tire along with any extra mess from the sealant that will cause challenges with tube installation.
#38
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ataylor- I am the same. I have geeked out on hubs for a long long time. I started in the mountain biking world, and used a lot of them. After some years, Chris King and Hadley became my favorites. I tried Hopes, White Industries, DT Swiss, Industry Nines, and some of the lesser-know brands. DTs were solid and reliable but had much less engagement than Hadleys, Kings, and Industry Nine. I have had zero issues with Kings or Hadleys or for that matter, DTs. On the road, the engagement matters much less for me, or not at all for most. So DTs and Kings are it. I9s have a lot fo drag and are a bit annoyingly noisy. I don't know if Hadley does a road hub...probably not. So I ended up sticking with the two I use now. Kings can be blingy and DTs are understated. I have had some of both for over ten years with zero issues. That is my experience from around 2000 so I don't stray anymore. I have never built a super light wheelset since I weigh 175ish, or I would know more about the super light hubs. I sort of wish I did but the thought of a flexy wheelset is not appealing either. If I used super light hubs, it would make sense to use light rims too. With our fast descents topping 50-55 MPH and huge drop-offs usually on one side, I thought it would be pointless with too much downside. Anyway, hubs are the most fun to geek out over in the rosdbike world (in the MTB world, it is suspension and geometry) so have fun.
Perfectly normal from a tube installation perspective... Depending on the tire of course, The Conti GP5k's are easily the most annoying tires to get on and off using the wheels I have (Light Bicycle), although I haven't put in a tube with them I don't relish the idea. If memory serves, and it may not, the tires I was using when I had to put a tube in were the first version of the Schwalbe Pro One's TL Easy, they were like a normal tire to install the tube in, no muss. I think the other time it happened to me I was using one of the new Vittoria Corsa Super G's or something like that. The moment I received the tire I knew it wasn't going to last long it was so freaking light and thin (to be fair I knew this from the reviews going in), sure enough it barely lasted 600 miles before rupturing from a flying piece of debris. I installed a tube easily.
Basically, what I'm saying is that should the need arrive to install a tube roadside, the rim strip will not be the issue, it'll be the tire along with any extra mess from the sealant that will cause challenges with tube installation.
Basically, what I'm saying is that should the need arrive to install a tube roadside, the rim strip will not be the issue, it'll be the tire along with any extra mess from the sealant that will cause challenges with tube installation.
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Posts: 1,803
Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Levo SL, Norco Bigfoot VLT
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
Liked 182 Times
in
118 Posts
Check out the DTs. They make some noise but not much. I love the Chris King muted buzz ( I grease them each season...sometimes twice so they stay a bit muted) and have also used their black hubs which are more muted than the DT red/black (the DT 350s are black/white). If you want totally silent, try the Onyx hubs. They MAY be heavier and I am not sure if they have more drag, but it is the only other hub I would personally consider. I have never had a hub issue with CK and DT and have been using them since 2000 or so. I used a Hadley too which I loved but their website is terrible (not sure if they still have one) and they are a tiny company so they don't build that many hubs. Like DT and CK, they are lifetime hubs. My local shop just said that they can get them (I think the guys knows the Hadley owner) so I may try them again next time I need a new build for MTB or road.
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Palm Desert, CA
Posts: 2,504
Bikes: Speedvagen Steel
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 429 Post(s)
Liked 248 Times
in
156 Posts
No worries, always happy to see someone get into tubeless in an informed manner! I won't every go back (or at least unless the system dies and no tires are available but hopefully that won't happen lol!)
Likes For robbyville:
#41
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Check out the DTs. They make some noise but not much. I love the Chris King muted buzz ( I grease them each season...sometimes twice so they stay a bit muted) and have also used their black hubs which are more muted than the DT red/black (the DT 350s are black/white). If you want totally silent, try the Onyx hubs. They MAY be heavier and I am not sure if they have more drag, but it is the only other hub I would personally consider. I have never had a hub issue with CK and DT and have been using them since 2000 or so. I used a Hadley too which I loved but their website is terrible (not sure if they still have one) and they are a tiny company so they don't build that many hubs. Like DT and CK, they are lifetime hubs. My local shop just said that they can get them (I think the guys knows the Hadley owner) so I may try them again next time I need a new build for MTB or road.
Likes For Ataylor:
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Posts: 1,803
Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Levo SL, Norco Bigfoot VLT
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
Liked 182 Times
in
118 Posts
I think I may have mentioned that I'm getting my CK R45s rebuilt with the Easton R90 rims. The shop guy is willing to hook me top with some Zipp 303s that are tubeless ready so who knows...I may get those too, depending on the discount. The only thing is that the hookless rims (like the new Zipps) can be run with tubes as well but only with proper tubeless tires. You can't safely run regular tube-type tires on them. So that is something important I wasn't aware of till now.