For the love of English 3 speeds...
10-10-23, 12:43 AM
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Lube
Bottom bracket is grease not oil. ATF is for cleaning. A tablespoon of engine oil once a year in a running Strumey Archer hub is more than plenty.
10-10-23, 05:19 AM
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Ignore those oil ports. They were used to add oil to re-liquify the animal-based greases used in yester-year. Instead, use marine, waterproof boat-trailer grease in the bottom bracket, front hubs, pedals, and even the bearings of the internal gear hub (oil for inside of it). In my Sturmeys, I use electric motor oil called Zoom Spout Turbine. It has a 12" applicator tube that fits perfectly inside the oil port hole on Sturmey Archer internal gear hubs.
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10-10-23, 07:53 AM
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another lube question. I just noticed a lube port on the bottom bracket of my Royal Scot this weekend...what!? That kind of blows my mind. Does the same oil go in all three ports: front hub, BB and Sturmey Archer IGH?
and pls remind me what's the best oil. I've been googling that for 20 minutes and have really been taken down some rabbit holes on various forums. So much conflicting information!!!
Is ATF as good or better than Phil's? Or motor oil?
and pls remind me what's the best oil. I've been googling that for 20 minutes and have really been taken down some rabbit holes on various forums. So much conflicting information!!!
Is ATF as good or better than Phil's? Or motor oil?
I prefer grease and use the commonly available Lucas green grease. It comes in a tube and you can get it from most hardware stores. If you're riding in the rain or going through standing water, marine grease is a better choice. Don't attempt to use old-school brown axle grease in the bottom bracket. Don't use cheap dollar store type white grease either - it tends to gunk up and dry out.
If you prefer to use oil, use a medium weight oil like SAE 30 or 40 weight motor oil. The issue with an all-oil bottom bracket is you have to keep adding oil, and they tend to make a mess because the oil runs out the bottom and along the spindle. I would try the grease first.
Make sure the bottom bracket has been cleaned before you put a large number of miles on the bike. I've found all kinds of junk and debris in old bike bottom brackets over the years.
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10-10-23, 10:13 AM
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There's all sorts of conflicting information on what oil to use. The black 3-in-1 will gum up your hub, but the blue for electric motors is 20W and works well. It's similar to zoom oil. You can run ATF, but I think it's really thin.
I've found seeds, nuts, wasps--all sorts of stuff. Must come through the seat tube?
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10-10-23, 10:16 AM
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This sounds like just the thing to get me out of my slump, and get some miles on the Sports as well. My only problem is, I live near the top of Chopmist Hill so it's away and down in any direction, and a long uphill slog back. Not suitable for a 3 speed. But I just mapped it out and if I trucked my bike down near the village I could offload and do a relatively level ride thru town and back. I could even stop for a beverage at the pub on the way by 
Anyone else accepting this challenge?
Anyone else accepting this challenge?
10-10-23, 10:31 AM
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Zoom oil is a 10W oil, so it's a little light, but it works just fine in SA hubs. Some folks prefer 20W or 30W oil. The applicator works really well. I have an empty zoom oil bottle I got at work and refilled it with synthetic 30W oil to use with SA hubs.
There's all sorts of conflicting information on what oil to use. The black 3-in-1 will gum up your hub, but the blue for electric motors is 20W and works well. It's similar to zoom oil. You can run ATF, but I think it's really thin.
I've found seeds, nuts, wasps--all sorts of stuff. Must come through the seat tube?
There's all sorts of conflicting information on what oil to use. The black 3-in-1 will gum up your hub, but the blue for electric motors is 20W and works well. It's similar to zoom oil. You can run ATF, but I think it's really thin.
I've found seeds, nuts, wasps--all sorts of stuff. Must come through the seat tube?
Yes, it falls down the seat tube. I've found all kinds of junk - seeds, insects, spiders, gum wrappers, what ever else. You can sleeve the bottom bracket using rolled sheet metal to close off the frame tubes. A notch needs to be cut for the oiler in the sleeve. You can do it with plastic too, though the plastic sometimes deteriorates.
The thing I don't like about sleeves is they trap moisture and debris at the bottom of the seat tube. You're just moving the problem up the tube, though it will keep the bottom bracket cleaner than otherwise. The sleeve should be pulled once in awhile for a clean out anyway, and the metal ones will cut you if you're not careful. I just removed one from an old Raleigh and ended up just not putting it back in.
I don't use sleeves. I just grease the center of the spindle and bottom of the bottom bracket. If anything does fall down the seat tube, it sticks in the grease at the center and does not migrate to the bearings. It all gets cleaned out when I repack the bottom bracket periodically. I will say I don't ride in foul weather or through standing water or when there is salt/slush on the roads. You see the sleeves in commuter bikes sometimes.
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Last edited by SirMike1983; 10-10-23 at 10:35 AM.
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10-10-23, 11:02 AM
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"Marfield" - Sold through Marshal Fields department store - https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...xel-value.html
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I like the green wrapped bars
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I like the green wrapped bars
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10-10-23, 11:02 AM
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10-10-23, 11:52 AM
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Zoom oil is a 10W oil, so it's a little light, but it works just fine in SA hubs. Some folks prefer 20W or 30W oil. The applicator works really well. I have an empty zoom oil bottle I got at work and refilled it with synthetic 30W oil to use with SA hubs.
There's all sorts of conflicting information on what oil to use. The black 3-in-1 will gum up your hub, but the blue for electric motors is 20W and works well. It's similar to zoom oil. You can run ATF, but I think it's really thin.
I've found seeds, nuts, wasps--all sorts of stuff. Must come through the seat tube?
There's all sorts of conflicting information on what oil to use. The black 3-in-1 will gum up your hub, but the blue for electric motors is 20W and works well. It's similar to zoom oil. You can run ATF, but I think it's really thin.
I've found seeds, nuts, wasps--all sorts of stuff. Must come through the seat tube?
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Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
10-10-23, 12:26 PM
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I don't use sleeves. I just grease the center of the spindle and bottom of the bottom bracket. If anything does fall down the seat tube, it sticks in the grease at the center and does not migrate to the bearings. It all gets cleaned out when I repack the bottom bracket periodically. I will say I don't ride in foul weather or through standing water or when there is salt/slush on the roads. You see the sleeves in commuter bikes sometimes.
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10-10-23, 04:51 PM
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No need to overthink it or go down the rabbit hole. You can run the bottom bracket on a three speed on grease or medium weight oil, your choice.
I prefer grease and use the commonly available Lucas green grease. It comes in a tube and you can get it from most hardware stores. If you're riding in the rain or going through standing water, marine grease is a better choice. Don't attempt to use old-school brown axle grease in the bottom bracket. Don't use cheap dollar store type white grease either - it tends to gunk up and dry out.
If you prefer to use oil, use a medium weight oil like SAE 30 or 40 weight motor oil. The issue with an all-oil bottom bracket is you have to keep adding oil, and they tend to make a mess because the oil runs out the bottom and along the spindle. I would try the grease first.
Make sure the bottom bracket has been cleaned before you put a large number of miles on the bike. I've found all kinds of junk and debris in old bike bottom brackets over the years.
I prefer grease and use the commonly available Lucas green grease. It comes in a tube and you can get it from most hardware stores. If you're riding in the rain or going through standing water, marine grease is a better choice. Don't attempt to use old-school brown axle grease in the bottom bracket. Don't use cheap dollar store type white grease either - it tends to gunk up and dry out.
If you prefer to use oil, use a medium weight oil like SAE 30 or 40 weight motor oil. The issue with an all-oil bottom bracket is you have to keep adding oil, and they tend to make a mess because the oil runs out the bottom and along the spindle. I would try the grease first.
Make sure the bottom bracket has been cleaned before you put a large number of miles on the bike. I've found all kinds of junk and debris in old bike bottom brackets over the years.
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10-10-23, 07:13 PM
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Getting in those late season three speed rides...
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10-11-23, 12:26 AM
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White Grease
I purchased some well recommended white silicone based grease that wasn't cheap and I had the same hardening problem mentioned above. I used it everywhere( coz it was so good) on the bike and after a few years it was worse than useless. I couldn't believe how bad it was, as some of my older bikes have the ancient two-pack grease ( grease dissolved by the occasional squirt of oil) that was 50 years old.
Does the white grease manufacturer expect you to rebuild the bike every year?! Surely not.
Does the white grease manufacturer expect you to rebuild the bike every year?! Surely not.
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10-11-23, 07:13 AM
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Couple of Superbes in need of rescue.
Facebook MI Superbes
$100 each
Raleigh Nottingham Bikes 1970s $100 Ithaca, MI
Facebook MI Superbes
$100 each
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10-11-23, 09:15 AM
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Rod Brake Raleigh $50 Auburn, AL
Slightly crusty rod brake Raleigh for sale on FB in Auburn, AL for $50. It is somewhat nearby (about 2 hrs away) but I am going to be out of town until the 25th. If it is still listed then I will try to go have a look at it. Also sent a message to the seller to see if I can put a deposit (or pay in full, it's only $50) and have them hold it until I get back in town.
Rod Brake Raleigh
Seller's pictures:
Rod Brake Raleigh
Seller's pictures:
Last edited by zookster; 10-11-23 at 09:20 AM.
10-11-23, 02:42 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Looks like a 23", looks Dutch, looks like it's weathered...but it's only $100 in NJ.
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10-11-23, 03:02 PM
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It's sort of a game with amateur tribologists to use something other than the factory recommendation. The Sturmey factory consistently specifies NLGI #2 grease for the bearings and labyrinth seals and either NLGI #00 grease or 20~30 wt. motor oil for the internal mechanism.
Fun fact: during and after the war, when things were rationed and in short supply, Sturmey suggested sewing machine oil as a substitute for the internal mechanism and Vaseline for the bearings and seals. (!)
Fun fact: during and after the war, when things were rationed and in short supply, Sturmey suggested sewing machine oil as a substitute for the internal mechanism and Vaseline for the bearings and seals. (!)
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10-11-23, 06:34 PM
Count Orlok Member
It's sort of a game with amateur tribologists to use something other than the factory recommendation. The Sturmey factory consistently specifies NLGI #2 grease for the bearings and labyrinth seals and either NLGI #00 grease or 20~30 wt. motor oil for the internal mechanism.
Fun fact: during and after the war, when things were rationed and in short supply, Sturmey suggested sewing machine oil as a substitute for the internal mechanism and Vaseline for the bearings and seals. (!)
Fun fact: during and after the war, when things were rationed and in short supply, Sturmey suggested sewing machine oil as a substitute for the internal mechanism and Vaseline for the bearings and seals. (!)
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10-11-23, 09:37 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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10-12-23, 12:21 AM
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Bargain
[QUOTE=zookster;23039700]Slightly crusty rod brake Raleigh for sale on FB in Auburn, AL for $50. It is somewhat nearby (about 2 hrs away) but I am going to be out of town until the 25th. If it is still listed then I will try to go have a look at it. Also sent a message to the seller to see if I can put a deposit (or pay in full, it's only $50) and have them hold it until I get back in town.
Rod Brake Raleigh
Seller's pictures:
It looks original. The seat alone is worth the asking price.
Rod Brake Raleigh
Seller's pictures:
It looks original. The seat alone is worth the asking price.
10-12-23, 10:47 AM
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[QUOTE=Johno59;23040260]
It sold last night. Missed out on that one!
Slightly crusty rod brake Raleigh for sale on FB in Auburn, AL for $50. It is somewhat nearby (about 2 hrs away) but I am going to be out of town until the 25th. If it is still listed then I will try to go have a look at it. Also sent a message to the seller to see if I can put a deposit (or pay in full, it's only $50) and have them hold it until I get back in town.
Rod Brake Raleigh
Seller's pictures:
It looks original. The seat alone is worth the asking price.
Rod Brake Raleigh
Seller's pictures:
It looks original. The seat alone is worth the asking price.
10-12-23, 06:55 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Puch Rugby Sport for $100 in PA. Missing front fender, wrong pedals, still a good buy,
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10-13-23, 03:00 PM
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10-15-23, 12:49 PM
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