Donnie Johnson

Good Morning,

I have an old set of XT parallelogram V-Brakes that squeal to no end so have decided to replace them. I am looking at replacing them with a set of Avid V-Brakes, or any other quality V-Brake that is recommended.

Does anyone know the difference between Avid Single Digit 7 and Avid Single Digit 5. Aside from a slight increase in weight and a different brake pad, is the much difference between the two brakes? The Avid Single Digit 7 are almost double the price of the Avid Single Digit 5.

Kind Regards

Donnie

Bezalel

The 7 has replaceable pad inserts, slightly better centering mechanism and a stronger noodle hanger. Take a look at the exploded parts list on pages 6 and 7 https://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/VZ..._spc_rev_a.pdf

HillRider

One data point: A rider on another forum reported he had all sorts of problems with SD5's including high lever effort and poor modulation. He solved this by fitting Avid SD "Ultimate" brakes but at over $120 a pair, that's a bit overkill.

I had SD7's on a Surly Cross Check and they were very strong and easy to modulate so take those contrasting experiences for what they are worth. The SD7's use commonly available Shimano-style slip in replacement pads so once you set the holders, they don't have to be realigned when you replace worn pads.

xenologer

far as I know sd5 vs sd7 are the same except for finish and pads. I'd just get whichever one matches the bike color then transfer your XT pad holders over

cobba

If you like Shimano, they still make XT v-brakes.

https://www.wiggle.com.au/shimano-xt-...brake-br-t780/

Bicycle Addict

SD7 has slightly different cable clamp bolt angle, and hex screws for centre screws instead of screws on the SD5 which flog out pretty quick if you are not care full.
SD7's are a bit nicer but I have been pretty happy with the SD5's too.

Kimmo

Any old cheap stuff works fine for V-brakes IMO, as long as the return springs are properly designed instead of putting a bit of crappy plastic in the force chain.

Modulation is more about the condition and quality of pads and housing, I'd say... levers only need to be half-decent too. I can usually get good results with all sorts of nasty crap; it's mostly just a matter of cable craft.

As for your funky parallelogram jobs, they were a nice idea, but undercooked. Perhaps they were designed to fare well enough with precisely-adjusted pads, but in the real world...

BTW, here's a random pic cause I'm just trying to see if I can embed one hosted here; they usually only come up as clickable thumbnails.



Dammit. BTW, that fancy housing in the pic (Alligator i-Link) is one way to slightly improve the modulation; $40 a set. Dude in Taiwan called gobike88tony sells it cheapest, free postage. Ebay.

Panthers007

I run the SD7's on my hybrid, with Kool-Stop pads. And I use Paul levers as well. Had this going for almost 6 years without a single whimper from them. In fact - if I were to squeeze down with much force at all, I'd fly over the bars.