tiger1964 

I think I mentioned earlier that in 1974, my friends and I all turned 18 and bought “decent” bikes; with next year being the 50th anniversary of that, I am restoring three of those bikes for my friends and plan some kind of celebratory ride for the four of us. Now that the weather is far less riding-friendly and I am indoors, it time to start.

First up is this 1974 Falcon. There are few things about identifying the bike a bit problematic, despite it being a one-owner bike. The shop where he bought it, well, I worked there that year for about 6 months that year, and all of the Falcons sold there were built up from bare frames with components chosen by the buyer and the staff — no two alike. And, I cannot claim to have the entire line-up memorized anyway. That other Falcon I did earlier this year, also 1974 and also from a childhood friend, had a nice spec with 531 butted tubes and Campy dropouts, and no chrome at all. This one has no-name dropouts (but they look “forged” to me and have an integral RD hanger) but the fork is chromed, as are the head lugs — and nowhere else. No clue which model. And, there’s a lot to clean up, it’s been hanging in a garage a long time.

Mish-mash of components: SR cranks, Campy NR derailleurs, Suntour barcons (I think I sold them to the owner later, after I tired of them), Fiamme bars and stem, Weinmann centerpulls, Brooks Pro saddle on a straight steel post (!) The wheels are plain Normandys and 27” steel rims, he and I seem to recall he quickly decided to ditch the tubulars and these were the only wheels I had hanging around in my basement at the time.

Mostly it needs rehab, all cleaned/polished/lubed/assembled. The wheels go away, as I have a spare set of 700C alloys with Campy hubs to donate; and that gas-pipe seat post must go (my micrometer suggests 26.4mm despite being quite out-of-round, does that sound right?)

It took much of the day to break it down to the last nut-bolt-and-washer. Hey, I found I had one of those Campy pedal cap wrenches! And, oddly, the front brake had 10mm pivot bolts, and the rears were 11mm? Of course the “most fun” were getting the springs disengaged on the derailleurs and calipers, and I am sure to be cursing when the time for reassembling them comes around. Regardless, it is time to break out the new ultrasonic cleaner for the first time; my plan is Simple Green XD (straight, or a solution?) and how long is a reasonable “session” in the machine for each batch (I expect to treat each component’s parts separately so I do not mix up the parts).

juvela

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this model three-tube 531 plain gauge
expect you would discover a pillar size of either 26.2mm or 26.4mm

dropouts appear to be either Campag Sport 1010/1 or the the Agrati replica thereof



since you have satisfied yourself that they are unmarked that would indicate the Agrati version

both have the small hole to accommodate the spring of the Campag Sport model gear mech

due to lugs am thinking frame earlier than stated date

do not wish to question that it may have been purchased new in 1974 but it appears to come from a slightly earlier time

a bit odd that dropouts exhibit eyelets while fork ends do not
fork ends appear to be true forged as a raised area around track nut can be seen...or this may be just a washer...

this usually makes one suspect a fork replacement

crown appears to be Vagner model DL

Ernest could be quite eclectic when it came to selecting bits for his frame construction at any given moment in time so it is best not to place too much weight on catalogue representations...


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SurferRosa

In overhauling the NR rd, removing the grub screw is the first thing you do. Replacing it is the last thing you do.

For the calipers, overhaul one at a time and use a small screwdriver to pry the spring back in place. Take pics along the way if necessary.

tiger1964 

Thanks for the confirmation. The various readings I got suggest 26.2 just would not fit

Well, whaddaya know? Under a bright light, using a magnifying glass, can barely make out "Campagnolo" under the paint. Well done! Yes, the little hole is there.

Could be. Shop opened, to the best of my recollection, 1972, and I started working there June 1974, and could not state with certainty that Spring 1974 inventory had no leftovers.

Agreed. Fork tips are different, I suspect the same thing. I'll ask the owners but, alternatively, fork replaced at factory or LBS prior to delivery? It certainly looks nicer than a "repair fork".

+1

I'll try to remember that!

Instead of photos, I have another bike sitting here with NR derailleurs and Weinmann brakes as a reference.

repechage

Falcon was a small enough mfg that buying a smattering of frame sets of varying build dates does not surprise.

looks like a reasonable bike.
review the old seat post for scraping that might indicate where tight spot(s) might be.

juvela

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forgot to mention above -

there is a good assemblage of early seventies Falcon paper here -

​​​​​​https://velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=26656

the nineteen seventy-four catalogue -

https://velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=27334

advisory: looking at Falcon paper can sometimes raise more questions than it solves...

Ernest also went on to fabricate cycles under his own name a few years later


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ascherer 

I went through similar machinations trying to identify the Falcon I bought a few years back. With the help of the VCC marque enthusiast (he can be found on cyclechat under the username mandobob) the closest possibility we got to is a San Remo Mk II, possibly late 60's - early 70's. The rounded seat stay treatment at the cluster and the larger seat tube diameter are clues. Mine very closely resembles this: https://velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=27461 with the exception of the chromed lugs and that seat stay treatment.

Pcampeau

The replacement fork looks to be the American market version of the top model San Remo 76. Most of them in the UK had the Davis style Fork Crown but the US had these. I’m looking for a fork just like it for my San Remo 76, now I’m jealous!

1989Pre 

The bike is interesting in that it is the only non-Raleigh/Carlton that I have seen with that early-'60's design of wrap-around seat stays. The chain-rings look to have some life left in them. How does the freewheel look?

juvela

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me local Falcon stockist in California at this time had the model 76 exhibiting the Davis crown so perhaps both types were exported to the U.S.

variation may have been due to Don Ernesto using what he could get given the conditions of the boom (wylde speculation)

as recalled, the model 76 was only available in the team/house colour of powder blue at this epoch

can make no claim to Falcon expertise


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tiger1964 

Wow, trying to read all that, you weren't kidding!

Very interesting; at least that sounds like a "Falcon fork"

Both of the "1974" Falcons currently at my house have the wraparounds. Thanks for the input on the chainrings, I'm trying to save my friends some money. Freewheel goes in the trash.

juvela

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been meaning to inquire regarding the cycle's stem

from what can be seen in photo it appears it might be a FIAMME







be this correct? if not, does it show any markings?

thank you!

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tiger1964 

That looks like the exact model on this bike.

Hmm, I have no interest in, or sue for, the wheels that I am removing -- Normandy high flange hubs but 27" steel rims. I wonder if, once cleaned up, a bike co-op would find a use for them? To save a bike with damaged wheels, I guess they are better than nothing (barely!)

tiger1964 

Update: Photo of some components after not only cleaning, polishing and coating, but reassembly (finally!) Actually, parts from all three of the winter projects: Falcon, Legnano and Falcon (but I wasn't planning on posting the same photo three times).

ehcoplex 

What do you use for post-polish coating? Thx

juvela

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he has made mention previous of Wolfgangs


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AdventureManCO 

w00t!

tiger1964 

Correct. That said, I wonder if a good coat of car wax would also work well. So far on my bikes, I am pleased at how the components retain their shine over time -- but, then again, I am a fair-weather rider, no rain or mud; I would be curious what, for instance, PNW riders experience.

I finally looked up the meaning of that. Thanks.

John E

My 1971 American Eagle (Nishiki) Semi-Pro (Competition) had wrap-around seat stays.

tiger1964 

Started on reassembly of the Falcon today. First item was, of course the headset. I had previously bought a headset race press to push the races into the frame’s head tubes and, on at least one bike, it’s too short for long head tubes as those are rarely seen on modern bikes. The Falcon proved the same, so I resorted to the Old Method — a rubber mallet and patience. Not too bad. Unlike the Peugeot, this one has loose bearings instead of caged — unusual for a Campy in my experience. I had been very careful during disassembly, and had 23 for the top and 23 for the bottom and once in fresh grease, it seemed like a lot of space left over. I did research online plus my 1974 Sutherland’s shop manual, and it says 3/16” bearings on Campy, and 20 to 22 balls. Also, the by-eye method is jam is as many as will fit, then remove two so the headset will not bind up while turning. So I needed a couple more and I fortunately have bags of each possible size. Checking with my micrometer, the bearings are… 5/32"? Huh? That’s common on non-Campy but the races clearly say Campagnolo, so this must be some version one normally does not see. Regardless, in place now and smooth as silk; final adjustment can wait until towards the end of the project, and I included the brake cable hanger in the “stack” anyway.

Bars and stem were next, and on all three bikes I am setting the stem at the maximum marked “safe” height, just to make the bikes easier to ride. Brake levers went on, they are the tiniest bit bent left/right, but I suspect not enough to notice upon casual inspection, or while riding.

To install the bar tape — wait a minute! Glad I remembered…. This bike has handlebar-end shifters! So, those are in place, and that meant the upper sections of cable housing and it helps to install the housing stop on the downtube to help hold it all there. Now the tape is on, again over the Fizik brand gel pads. The combination of the thick cushion tape and the gel pads makes the bar look a bit “fat” but I’ll bet the reduction in shock to the arms will pay off while riding. And the bar end shifters feel a bit gritty in actuation; I just now got some guidance from the forum, and feel confident I can slide the ratchet mechanisms out and clean/lube them, hopefully that helps.

The wheels need to come back off briefly, as I forgot to polish up the hubs and spoke for additional sparkle. Also, on both the Falcon and the Peugeot at this point, I am going to apply the “ceramic coating”, basically a wax but better, that I started using on both cars and the gloss is great with that stuff and should help protect the bike. I think so far, it looks pretty good. The tire “look right” — there is room that I possibly could have installed fatter 30mm ones (available in black only ☹️) but that’s probably not a lot of difference in ride, and might have looked odd.

tiger1964 

OK, the bike is “assembled” now, really only still needing a water bottle and cage; that said, I need to go over the bike 100% (and then some) making sure every bolt is tight and correctly adjusted. In particular, the headset is just finger tight. After that, it needs at least two shakedown rides with tightness checks in between.

Sadly, the batteries in my household scale have died, so I cannot give even a ballpark weight. Nice enough components but it is straight-gauge tubing, and a 25” frame as well. Probably approaching 25 pounds? Then again, that might be pessimistic.


A couple of things:

(a) No surprise but going from 27” wheels to 700C means brake reach is affected and even in the bottom position, not QUITE enough reach. Therefore, a little grinding of the caliper is in order; sure, it would stop right now, but how many stops until tire blows? And there are tire savers installed and getting the brake perfectly centered and tight while preventing the tire savers from doing Rock Around the Clock is not easy — at least on the rear; on the front the center bolt was long enough for two NyLock nuts (M6 x1mm, by the way, cheap from Amazon in stainless in packs), one of which holds the brake and the second for the tire saver.

(b) First time dealing with barcons in so many decades. After the rebuild the SunTour shifters seem to work really well — but the cable routing strikes me as really inelegant, I have a clip holding the cables together below the handlebars, and I still need a zip-tie directly above the housing stop on the downtube to keep the cables from drooping. Moreover, the shift cable housing comes rather close to the front brake’s straddle cable assembly. Is there a fix?

(c) there is also a zip tie on the chain stay just aft of the housing stop for the rear derailleur. The ‘modern’ housing is a bit stiffer than I am used to and wants to exit the stop at an angle. I am hoping it settles into its new shape and the zip tie becomes superfluous. Or — last year member “oneclick” made up some special ferrules that fit my Raleigh project perfectly for this exact reason, I think I still have one or more in my “cables and small parts” box.

JacobWilliss

1988 Masi Gran Corsa ma favorite