thin or weak new tubes
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thin or weak new tubes
Any mechanics, shop owners or anyone who fixes a lot of flats, do you have tubes breaking on where the tube goes down into a concave rim from the bead seat. Any kind or rims new or old. Three different brands of tubes new tubes. It's a new problem from a shop owner I know. He does not have a computer, just a phone. He thinks the tubes may be thinner. He's owned his own shop for 30 years +. Should I post this in a better forum?
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Any mechanics, shop owners or anyone who fixes a lot of flats, do you have tubes breaking on where the tube goes down into a concave rim from the bead seat. Any kind or rims new or old. Three different brands of tubes new tubes. It's a new problem from a shop owner I know. He does not have a computer, just a phone. He thinks the tubes may be thinner. He's owned his own shop for 30 years +. Should I post this in a better forum?
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I bought some cheap tubes last year and many split at a seam or the valve stem would start leaking quickly... they felt "slippery", not very stretchy, were shiny, no talc, and oily to the touch... patches didn't stick to them.
Some "new" type of fake rubber.
there have been several complaints on this forum about similar bad tubes.
i've gone with brand name tubes since and had no problem.
Some "new" type of fake rubber.
there have been several complaints on this forum about similar bad tubes.
i've gone with brand name tubes since and had no problem.
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yes don't mess around with Kenda or other el cheepo tubes.
Get Michelin Continental or Vittoria
the extra 2 bucks per tube will save you a lot of frustration
/markp
Get Michelin Continental or Vittoria
the extra 2 bucks per tube will save you a lot of frustration
/markp
#6
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I bought some cheap tubes last year and many split at a seam or the valve stem would start leaking quickly... they felt "slippery", not very stretchy, were shiny, no talc, and oily to the touch... patches didn't stick to them.
Some "new" type of fake rubber.
there have been several complaints on this forum about similar bad tubes.
i've gone with brand name tubes since and had no problem.
Some "new" type of fake rubber.
there have been several complaints on this forum about similar bad tubes.
i've gone with brand name tubes since and had no problem.
#8
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Frigging memory!
Last edited by 2manybikes; 06-09-23 at 06:52 PM. Reason: add something
#9
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best plan is to avoid super-low price "deals" on tubes or tires.
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and for the record.. i've had good luck with kendas, personally.
Last edited by maddog34; 06-09-23 at 11:18 PM.
#11
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Yep, Kenda tubes have been fine for me as well and in the shop. Around 2010-12 we had about 16 cases of Specialized tubes that were defective. I find Quality Bike Products (QBP) tubes are just fine. Tubes from Wallyworld sometimes work and sometimes don't therefore I no longer buy them there.
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The first thing I'd suspect if I found my tube slit like that in the location you said, is that I or whomever installed it did it wrong.
I had a rash of that happening to me 10 or so years ago. Three tubes in a row. Usually it takes three times for something to hit me over they head that I'm doing it wrong. I figured out that as I was rolling the bead of the tire over the rim that it was trapping a piece of the tube between the bead and the bead seat of the rim. Sometimes they survive inflation and a ride or two and other times they blow upon initially airing the tire up.
If you always pretend you do everything correctly, then it makes finding the solution harder. Not that I'm saying you did it wrong, but you need to check on your next tube installs if this is happening. For me the tube usually got caught in the bead seat just before rolling the bead over the rim started to get to the point you think it won't possibly go on.
I had a rash of that happening to me 10 or so years ago. Three tubes in a row. Usually it takes three times for something to hit me over they head that I'm doing it wrong. I figured out that as I was rolling the bead of the tire over the rim that it was trapping a piece of the tube between the bead and the bead seat of the rim. Sometimes they survive inflation and a ride or two and other times they blow upon initially airing the tire up.
If you always pretend you do everything correctly, then it makes finding the solution harder. Not that I'm saying you did it wrong, but you need to check on your next tube installs if this is happening. For me the tube usually got caught in the bead seat just before rolling the bead over the rim started to get to the point you think it won't possibly go on.
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Tubes becomes "thin" when stretched to their limits.
I always get the largest tube for the tyre.
For example, for a 26x1.50 tyre, I don't use a 26x1.00/1.50 tube, but a 26x1.50/1.75 tube so it doesn't stretch (much).
I always get the largest tube for the tyre.
For example, for a 26x1.50 tyre, I don't use a 26x1.00/1.50 tube, but a 26x1.50/1.75 tube so it doesn't stretch (much).
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It's part of the Big Tubeless conspiracy. They make almost all wheels tubeless ready now so that they can introduce various shelves and protrusions in the rim that damage tubes for anyone being inclined to not setup for tubeless.
#15
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huh.. i just had to toss out two Conti tubes.. the presta valve broke on one for no good reason, and the other began leaking at the valve stem base... a dozen tiny leaks.... both were "new, in box", still had the factory rubber band on them too...and part of a parts haul..... 26x2.3" or so... larger than the std. MTB tube size...Contis... black valve cores.
and for the record.. i've had good luck with kendas, personally.
and for the record.. i've had good luck with kendas, personally.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 06-11-23 at 06:49 PM.
#16
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I had problems with Performance Bike tubes, where the valve stem attaches to the tube. Some didn't even make it out of the basement. Maybe that's why they went out of business.
Conti or Vitorria tubes now, w/o problems.
Conti or Vitorria tubes now, w/o problems.
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By an “internal blowout”, I mean the tube ripped and expelled all the air rapidly but the tire was never blown off the rim. Particularly scary when it happens at about 25mph on a downhill on the front wheel on a loaded touring bike. I wouldn’t suggest it.
I
I used to be able to run 23/25mm tubes in 32 to 35mm tires without issue but that was 15 to 20 years ago before the widespread adoption of tubeless. The advent of tubeless tires may have caused the tube makers to reduce the amount of rubber that they are using to save money. Because they don’t have as large a market as they used to perhaps they are saving money. I’ve had this problem with all kinds of brands of tubes.
I also think the issue is with the way that the tube fills in the tire. The tube grows towards the tire side first as the tire is filled. After the tube runs up against the tire (red arrows below), it then back fills into the rim channel (green arrow). The part of the tube that backfills stretches more and is thinner than the tire side. The result is very thin rubber on the rim side and cornering pulls at the rim side and tears the tube. When I had the internal blowout, I had just jigzagged around a rumble strip on the shoulder.
l
For the last couple of years, I’ve changed to using tubes that are closer to the tire size and the number of this kind of puncture has fallen off dramatically for me.
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I knew there had to be some kind of conspiracy, don't forget to wear your tin foil hat. They can control your mind.
Last edited by 2manybikes; 06-12-23 at 02:44 PM. Reason: typo
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I also have had good results with Kenda, and poor results with Specialized, seam splits for no reason. I have also had good results with Specialized. Some tubes have outlasted 2+ road tires.
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