Show Us Your 650B Conversions
#1051
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You might try some vintage Shimano SLR brake levers, they should have a higher mechanical advantage to your more modern ones. Note, I'm not talking abouting 'Super SLR' brake levers.
Look for Shimano brake lever models: 6400, 1055, A451. There are probably others too. I believe the 7400 dura ace models are also SLR brakes.
Look for Shimano brake lever models: 6400, 1055, A451. There are probably others too. I believe the 7400 dura ace models are also SLR brakes.
Presumably the key point is whether or not the levers are SLR rather than whether the cables are exposed or not?
The frame is 1997 and I’d prefer not to run exposed brake cables on this particular bicycle - even if it’s a Reparto Corse frame converted to 650b…
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#1052
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Many thanks, that’s very useful. I grew up on Suntour and Campagnolo but always liked the grey Dura Ace 7402 aero levers, which seem to be SLR. Not cheap and nor are the replacement hoods if eBay is anything to go by, but I’ll start looking.
Presumably the key point is whether or not the levers are SLR rather than whether the cables are exposed or not?
The frame is 1997 and I’d prefer not to run exposed brake cables on this particular bicycle - even if it’s a Reparto Corse frame converted to 650b…
Presumably the key point is whether or not the levers are SLR rather than whether the cables are exposed or not?
The frame is 1997 and I’d prefer not to run exposed brake cables on this particular bicycle - even if it’s a Reparto Corse frame converted to 650b…
#1053
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Many thanks, that’s very useful. I grew up on Suntour and Campagnolo but always liked the grey Dura Ace 7402 aero levers, which seem to be SLR. Not cheap and nor are the replacement hoods if eBay is anything to go by, but I’ll start looking.
Presumably the key point is whether or not the levers are SLR rather than whether the cables are exposed or not?
The frame is 1997 and I’d prefer not to run exposed brake cables on this particular bicycle - even if it’s a Reparto Corse frame converted to 650b…
Presumably the key point is whether or not the levers are SLR rather than whether the cables are exposed or not?
The frame is 1997 and I’d prefer not to run exposed brake cables on this particular bicycle - even if it’s a Reparto Corse frame converted to 650b…
#1054
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I prefer tricolor SLR’s, but that’s merely for aesthetic, not functional reasons. I believe they are all aero style.
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1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
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#1055
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650B Conversion...Candidates
I recently scored a lovely 650B rim brake wheelset as I've batted the idea around more than once in my head. I've briefly tested a different (and very nice) 650B wheelset out for myself thanks to a forum member, but ever since, have had a lonely set of (very cheaply, Bike Works-sourced) Compass 650x42 extra lights waiting more road riding duty. 2nd generation/later Pacenti SL23 rims laced to Shimano 105 hubs. Look sharp, nice weight, and at 50 PSI give or take, measure out to 38mm or so. Maybe more now that they've been inflated for a bit. EL-spec Compass/RH tires do tend to stretch. I have a few bikes that I'd thought were potential candidates, regardless of my views of 650B wheels on huge frames (as in, they don't look that great, and look much better on a 56cm frame). So, for future reference for those of you seeing this now or for those in the future, I wanted to post!
Firstly is a first-year 1983 Cannondale ST300 frame (ST500 as a complete bike). Acres of vertical room and good lateral room between the fork blades. Rear wheel at the seat stays is also quite accommodating. The chain stays, while allowing tire rotation, are super tight. 700x32mm with fenders are tight but doable. The question is if the change to 650x38s is worth it? Fender room is epic, but to comfortably clear 38-42mm 650B tires, those chain stays would have to be modified, and I am ignorant of doing so on a post-heat-treated aluminum frame.
The next candidate was my 1980 Trek 510. While the big toobs of the Cannondale proportion out well enough to the voluminous all-black Compass tires, the standard-diameter steel tubes, IMO, do not. [this looks a bit worse in person] Tan wall 650B tires plus fenders would be the way to go. If not, as previously stated, this all being on a smaller frame. Like the Cannondale, fork clearance is great, seat stay clearance is also capacious, and again like the Canndale, chain stay clearance is tight. The benefit here, as we know, is that dimpling steel chain stays is a non-issue. And since this 510 is geometrically identical to its contemporary 710 and 910 brethren, consider them as equally viable options.
Firstly is a first-year 1983 Cannondale ST300 frame (ST500 as a complete bike). Acres of vertical room and good lateral room between the fork blades. Rear wheel at the seat stays is also quite accommodating. The chain stays, while allowing tire rotation, are super tight. 700x32mm with fenders are tight but doable. The question is if the change to 650x38s is worth it? Fender room is epic, but to comfortably clear 38-42mm 650B tires, those chain stays would have to be modified, and I am ignorant of doing so on a post-heat-treated aluminum frame.
The next candidate was my 1980 Trek 510. While the big toobs of the Cannondale proportion out well enough to the voluminous all-black Compass tires, the standard-diameter steel tubes, IMO, do not. [this looks a bit worse in person] Tan wall 650B tires plus fenders would be the way to go. If not, as previously stated, this all being on a smaller frame. Like the Cannondale, fork clearance is great, seat stay clearance is also capacious, and again like the Canndale, chain stay clearance is tight. The benefit here, as we know, is that dimpling steel chain stays is a non-issue. And since this 510 is geometrically identical to its contemporary 710 and 910 brethren, consider them as equally viable options.
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#1056
Making up the numbers
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Near four hours on the 650b-ianchi today in cool gusty conditions over hilly terrain. Rides remarkably similar to how it did with 700c wheels and 25/28mm tyres. The 650b Conti GP5000 S TR tyres with tubes set up nice and round on Velocity Quill rims, unlike some older Contis which seem taller with a thick and narrow tread cap. They ride and corner well.
Closer examination indicated the stock GC610 pads on,y look like Kool Stop, but are darker as well as older and drier/harder, so that’s the first avenue of refinement for the underwhelming centrepulls.
Closer examination indicated the stock GC610 pads on,y look like Kool Stop, but are darker as well as older and drier/harder, so that’s the first avenue of refinement for the underwhelming centrepulls.
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Nothing quite says wall hanger like drillium toe straps
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Alas, no- aluminum can’t be safely dimpled/altered. Go with the Trek.
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#1058
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#1059
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...after heat treating, that is what I thought, but I left that statement open-ended just in case someone had done or knew about a reliable-yet-easy-enough way of doing so that didn't compromise the metal. The Cannondale will run 700x35s anyway, so in fenderless form, there's no loss from not being able to go 650B. The Trek frame looks outmatched for all the black rim + tire visual mass, but yes, it can have its chain stays dimpled and that would make it an instant fenders-with-ease bike. Too bad about the Cannondale--vertical dropouts are nice. At least with the Trek, I could mount the fenders well below the inner arch of the caliper brakes, thus, finally, allowing me to have a caliper and fender relationship that 1) doesn't have them clacking upon use of brakes and 2) finally would allow the complete opening of the calipers (via QR lever) to facilitate easy tire removal (when inflated), which has been more or less my White Whale in that realm. Caliper brakes for the ease of setup, braking effort, and effective stopping power, versus, say, canti.
#1060
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Agreed. If one does fenders on a bike like the 510, things start to look a lot more normal, as my 710’s can attest (links in my sig in desktop version).
I also like nothing smaller than 38mm on a 700c to 650b conversion, or things will look weird on a large frame (I ride 60-62 cm). See my Bridgestone - it has 38mm tires without fenders and I think it looks ok. And it rides wonderfully.
I also like nothing smaller than 38mm on a 700c to 650b conversion, or things will look weird on a large frame (I ride 60-62 cm). See my Bridgestone - it has 38mm tires without fenders and I think it looks ok. And it rides wonderfully.
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1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
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#1061
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Agreed. If one does fenders on a bike like the 510, things start to look a lot more normal, as my 710’s can attest (links in my sig in desktop version).
I also like nothing smaller than 38mm on a 700c to 650b conversion, or things will look weird on a large frame (I ride 60-62 cm). See my Bridgestone - it has 38mm tires without fenders and I think it looks ok. And it rides wonderfully.
I also like nothing smaller than 38mm on a 700c to 650b conversion, or things will look weird on a large frame (I ride 60-62 cm). See my Bridgestone - it has 38mm tires without fenders and I think it looks ok. And it rides wonderfully.
Sure, I have my purple 510 up locally, but I still think it's just a cool color, fading and all. Definitely needs tan wall tires regardless. I at least have fenders that should work...
#1062
tantum vehi
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I can send you my shipping address.
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1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
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#1063
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#1066
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The 32s are a very round tyre on the rim and provide confidence-inspiring grip as a result. The transparent skinwall versions seem a shade slower than blackwall, although that could be heavier tubes. The 650b-ianchi will probably accept 35s, it won’t take 38s, but I should wear out the 32s and some Rivendell 33.3s in stock as well first…
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#1067
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I haven't posted near enough photos ogugie doctored Competition. Doesn't 'ook like this anymore, so I'll have to update the photos soon.
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