wheel building
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wheel building
So do the outer spokes go forward or rearward
I have both
outside toward front
totally screwed, 3 spokes from the inside next to each other with 2 crossing
outside toward rear
outside front
Some I built, some purchased so questions
I have both
outside toward front
totally screwed, 3 spokes from the inside next to each other with 2 crossing
outside toward rear
outside front
Some I built, some purchased so questions
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#2
feros ferio
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If I rebuild on an existing hub, I keep the same clockwise/anticlockwise inner/outer spoke pattern that is evident in the indentations on the hub flange.
In practice, I have yet to find that the exact pattern (symmetrical left and right flanges vs. parallel left and right flanges, torque spokes on the inside vs. outside on the drive side, likewise on the left side -- I have experienced almost every combination, as you reportedly have, as well) makes any real world difference in feel or reliability of a wheel.
In practice, I have yet to find that the exact pattern (symmetrical left and right flanges vs. parallel left and right flanges, torque spokes on the inside vs. outside on the drive side, likewise on the left side -- I have experienced almost every combination, as you reportedly have, as well) makes any real world difference in feel or reliability of a wheel.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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#3
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There are a lot of little things you can do that show attention to detail, but as long as the spokes are laced correctly and tensioned equally, it doesn't really matter to us mere mortals.
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If I rebuild on an existing hub, I keep the same clockwise/anticlockwise inner/outer spoke pattern that is evident in the indentations on the hub flange.
In practice, I have yet to find that the exact pattern (symmetrical left and right flanges vs. parallel left and right flanges, torque spokes on the inside vs. outside on the drive side, likewise on the left side -- I have experienced almost every combination, as you reportedly have, as well) makes any real world difference in feel or reliability of a wheel.
In practice, I have yet to find that the exact pattern (symmetrical left and right flanges vs. parallel left and right flanges, torque spokes on the inside vs. outside on the drive side, likewise on the left side -- I have experienced almost every combination, as you reportedly have, as well) makes any real world difference in feel or reliability of a wheel.
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The outside lacing on hub shift or coaster wheels is basically correct to help offset the back force of shifting or braking.
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Definitely fix that SA!
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Kinda like that little scratch in the paint no one can see but you...
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#8
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I was taught pulling spokes inside (head on the outside), as they get the most stress, and if your chain drops behind the largest cog, the outer ones get chewed up. I believe that's the gospel according to Jobst as well. But then, some wheel experts differ...
What's really important is to build a wheel so that looking down through the valve hole you should see the Campagnolo logo centered up.
All of this is approved by the ASFE.
What's really important is to build a wheel so that looking down through the valve hole you should see the Campagnolo logo centered up.
All of this is approved by the ASFE.
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Much like what #Gugie said above. The spokes under the most tension are the pulling spokes on the rear hub. Since most spoke failures occur at the bend, a pulling spoke should be on the inside of the flange with the head facing out. This gives the spoke a slightly straighter pull angle at the bend when the wheel is under torque. If it were laced to the outside it would then also have to bend around the outside of the flange at a greater angle which could increase any weakness. Having said that, spokes these days are of such excellent quality that it really does matter that much. Breaking a spoke on a properly built wheel under normal riding conditions is quite rare without some outside influence. Just my opinion though and worth what you paid for it.
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I was taught pulling spokes inside (head on the outside), as they get the most stress, and if your chain drops behind the largest cog, the outer ones get chewed up. I believe that's the gospel according to Jobst as well. But then, some wheel experts differ...
What's really important is to build a wheel so that looking down through the valve hole you should see the Campagnolo logo centered up.
All of this is approved by the ASFE.
What's really important is to build a wheel so that looking down through the valve hole you should see the Campagnolo logo centered up.
All of this is approved by the ASFE.
#11
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I used to think stuff like this might matter, but after several dozen wheels for my own use, I am starting to think that many of the "finer points" of wheelbuilding are inconsequential, and that the reason they have been discussed is because someone's ego decided to rationalize their personal preferences and attempt to showcase their knowledge of trivial things that don't really matter. Yes. There are absolutely some good practices advocated, and I'm not claiming these people are incorrect - but I haven't found the leading/trailing or inside/outside makes a difference.
Granted, I usually build 36 hole wheels, have only built 3-cross, and always start wheels relative to the valve hole and with spokes with heads facing out (because it's an absolute P.I.T.A. to lace 3x if you start with the courses of spokes that have the heads facing inward). I suppose this means I am consistently building wheels with the same pattern, but I can't be bothered to contemplate how my practical approach to lacing compares to what the "experts" advise about such a traditional and proven effective pattern.
Granted, I usually build 36 hole wheels, have only built 3-cross, and always start wheels relative to the valve hole and with spokes with heads facing out (because it's an absolute P.I.T.A. to lace 3x if you start with the courses of spokes that have the heads facing inward). I suppose this means I am consistently building wheels with the same pattern, but I can't be bothered to contemplate how my practical approach to lacing compares to what the "experts" advise about such a traditional and proven effective pattern.
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An aside more than anything else here, but I recently picked up a '78 Raleigh Comp GS and both front and rear wheel were laced with the 'pulling' spokes on the inside on one side of the wheel and on the outside on the other...! Seems like it would be kind of a PITA to lace up a wheel this way, and.... why?
#13
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Gotta say, after assembling traditional 2x or 3x wheelsets, I was a bit flummoxed with my first radial spoke build. Took me a minute to figure out there's nothing to figure out. 😜
Last edited by BTinNYC; 03-23-24 at 09:32 AM.
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An aside more than anything else here, but I recently picked up a '78 Raleigh Comp GS and both front and rear wheel were laced with the 'pulling' spokes on the inside on one side of the wheel and on the outside on the other...! Seems like it would be kind of a PITA to lace up a wheel this way, and.... why?
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#16
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#17
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Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
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#18
feros ferio
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Once you put the torque spokes on the inner flange of the drive side, putting them on the outside of the left flange makes wheel dishing asymmetry that much more severe. Other than the chain suck argument, one could choose outside the drive side flange and inside the left side flange for torque spokes.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Mavic, back in the early/mid 90's, did a test with their neutral support wheels. They tested every combination. Result was outside spoke pulling and blue loctite held up the best.