capnjonny 

I was just online trying to get ideas about gravel bikes.
Raleigh sports have been doing this for about 100 years right?

As usual I was having a heart attack looking at the prices for these toys. 2,3,$4000. for a bike you can ride down dirt roads?

I'm sure you folks out there have built up bikes for far less than that.

How about showing us your gravel bikes

And, what are the best vintage frame/ fork combos to get for a gravel build? . what components ?, what size wheels and tires?. Brakes? bars?

daverup 

I don't know about the best way to go gravel, but I converted a mid 90's Crosscut hybrid for my wife.
She needed a small frame and I was not having much luck finding a more modern starting point. We had the Schwinn since it was new and she liked the fit overall. The original tires on the small crosscut were 26x1 3/8 I think. I changed to some Serfas 26x1.5 with a bit more tread, and got some plastic fenders. Left the gearing alone and added some drop bars and 3x7 brifters. Also, added the cross levers because she really likes them.


Since I took that pic, the seatpost has been changed to a black one. I also changed the shifters out recently since she didn't really like the Sora's. Soon to be test ridden with Microshift 3x7's.

scarlson 

Oh, sure, every bike I build is a DIY gravel bike.

Also any bike is a gravel bike, if you ride on gravel with it!

I like '80s touring frames (built for 27" wheels but the canti brakes reach 700c wheels and offer better tire clearance) with 700c wheels and 700x38 tires. Often they will fit fenders too! There are so many '80s tourers to choose from. You can almost always find one for sale on your local CL or fb marketplace.

Here's a list.

Bridgestone RB-T
Bridgestone T-500
Bridgestone T-700
Centurion Pro Tour
Fuji Touring Series IV
Fuji Touring Series V
Fuji Saratoga
Kuwahara Caravan
Lotus Odyssey
Miyata 610
Miyata 1000
Nishiki Continental
Nishiki Cresta GT
Nishiki Riviera GT
Nishiki Seral
Novara Randonee
Panasonic PT-3500
Panasonic PT-5000
Panasonic Pro Touring
Panasonic Touring Deluxe
Raleigh Alyeska
Raleigh Kodiak (careful this one is also the name for a mountain bike)
Raleigh Portage
Raleigh Super Tourer
Raleigh Touring 18
Schwinn Paramount P15-9 Tourer
Schwinn Passage
Schwinn Voyageur/Voyageur SP
Shogun 2000
Specialized Expedition
Takara Overland
Trek 520
Trek 720
Univega Gran Turismo
Univega Specialissima

Vertical dropouts help with rear wheel removal without deflating the oversize tire. I've built up quite a few for friends: Schwinn Voyageur SP, Nishiki Cresta, Riviera, Seral, Univega Gran and Specialissima, Specialized Expedition, Fuji Touring Series V, and a Panasonic Touring Deluxe. All these fit 38s and fenders no problem.

If you want to go crazier than this (bigger tires), you can also try putting 650b wheels on a frame designed for 27 or 700c. Trek 61x from the early '80s are good for this. You'll have to braze canti posts to the frame unless you are ok with a moderate loss in braking performance. I did it and I really like mine. First I had 650x42 with the original fork (below).



And then I broke the fork so I made a fork that can take 650x48 for that extra cushy ride over rough gravel. It is really nice to ride. Cost me nearly nothing, but a LOT of my time. However I taught myself some framebuilding, which was fun.

CO_Hoya 

2001 Gunnar Crosshairs (almost C&V) that started out w/ 105 9-sp (as bought) and has migrated thru Ultegra 10-sp to Shimano R8000, via bits picked up cheap on CL or the web.



While the late 80s/90s hybrid conversions have a following around here, I think looking at the late 90s/early 00s "cyclocross" frames that were more commuter- than race-oriented is a good place to start. Others off the top of my head are the Surly Cross-Check and Soma Double Cross

Schweinhund

Specialized Crossroads too. native 700 sizing, canti mounts and huge room for tires.

Sedgemop 

From your own list of bikes, I'd say you've got a pretty great gravel bike already. A Miyata 610 has ample room for wider tires. Depending on the model year, you may need to switch to 700c from 27" wheels. Not much else you'd need to do.

scarlson 

Yep, just slap on some 700c wheels and put on 700x38 Gravelkings and go! Bonus points if you spread the rear triangle to take a 135 spaced freehub for 9 speeds.

randyjawa 

I am sure that this...

will be a bit of a sacralidge, but the modified bike looked good, worked like a charm, was comfortable for me and set me back almost nothing.

Sadly, the Rocky Mountain and I spent little road time together. A fellow saw me riding the bike, followed me home (I know - danger) and commented positively about the bike. He ended up scooting to the ATM, presented me with the agreed upon price, and rode away.

Piff 

Nearly 300 pages in this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nversions.html

Mostly 26" wheeled bikes I would guess. Lots of people have gone this route, but be warned that you will need to pay close attention to geometry; 80s and 90s mountain bikes are long and will require creative stem/handlebar/brake lever choices to ensure proper handling and comfort.

Also, frame size will be smaller. For example, I ride a 55-57cm road frame. For proper reach on a vintage mountain bike, I feel best on a 48-50cm frame. If I could turn back time I would love to have my old '88 Miyata Ridegerunner Team as a gravel bike. Unfortunately, crashed it.

Sedgemop 

For crushed gravel, fire roads and such, I ride a '72 PX-10 with cyclocross tubulars.

For the chunky stuff, like Iowa farm roads, I ride this '85 Trek 830.

Clang

I've put a lot of gravel miles on a 1984 Fuji Touring Series IV. I don't have pics of it coated in limestone dust, but imagine a shamefully close to OEM touring bike that still has the foam grab-ons grips and huge aluminum pie plate. The biggest update was adding 27 x 1 1/4" Panaracer Paselas.

Garthr

Regardless of what bike you you ride where, having it fit you properly for length, and not just height, is most important of all. I really don't care about brand names on bikes as it's what's underneath that matters.

Sedgemop 

This is a good point. For a lot of off pavement riding, we don't need super wide tires. OP could even stick with 27" wheels.

mstateglfr 

As is the case each time this well worn topic comes up, you aren't forced to buy a new gravel bike if the cost is higher than what you want to pay.
- that doesn't mean others are ripped off because they will pay.
- that doesn't mean older bikes are anywhere close to the same quality/experience.


An old touring frame can make for a good gravel bike, if the geometry works and tire clearance is there.
An old early 90s hybrid can make for a good gravel bike, if the geometry works and tire clearance is there.

Personally, I like a bike that can easily handle 43mm tires and not many older frames can do that. I also like a lower bottom bracket, which again not many older frames have. As for steering, my gravel frame has the same trail number as my main road bike. Once more, not many older touring bikes have a similar number.

Just because a conversion can be done doesn't make it as nice/competent/reliable/comfortable as something designed for the same purpose.
And to be fair, a conversion is not inherently worse either. If someone likes a higher bottom bracket, or slower steering, or only wants 38mm tire clearance then a vintage touring frame could be perfect.

I don't have interest in riding 32mm or narrower tires on gravel for more than a couple miles. There just isn't an upside to such narrow tires on a bike that is used for unpaved/gravel roads.


This was my first gravel bike. Early 90s Univega Via activa hybrid frame with parts bin components. 3x7 friction downtube shifting, older crank and derailleur, but a new flared bar.
It was clearly a bad fit, but I didn't want to invest much before I knew if I liked riding all the gravel roads around me. It did help narrow down what I like/dislike for geometry and setup.




My next gravel bike was with a new steel frame that properly fit and had geometry I liked more than the kludged together Univega.
2x11 drivetrain using bar end shifters mounted to Genevalle levers.
Better components, lighter, more comfortable. Brakes were from the 80s, wanted to still have rim brakes.



After many years with the Black Mountain frame, I bought a modern 853 steel frame with carbon fork and disc brakes. At first I kept the quirky shifters and used cable disc brakes, but after 1 year I moved to STI shifting and hydraulic brakes.
The bike fits great, has geometry that further meets what I want for how I ride, and it is noticeably more capable on gravel than any of the many 80s touring bikes I have owned thru the years.




The red Black Mountain frame is currently rocking a 3x9 drivetrain, fenders, and a Wald 139 basket. It's for errands and commuting. I still love it, but just for a different use.

SurferRosa

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-grinders.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-grinders.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...c-v-frame.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...rakes-etc.html

droppedandlost 

1974 Sekine SHS 271 with 105 10sp and 700x38mm

bikemig 

Lots of choices for a C&V gravel bike but I think it's tough to beat a vintage MTB. They're designed around wide tires and wide gearing. Not as good as new MTBs for single track but they make fine gravel bikes. It is almost as if they were designed to go off road,

This is my 1992 Specialized Stumpjumper drop bar conversion:

Sedgemop 

All good points. The type of riding surface should be a consideration also. "Gravel" doesn't mean one thing. The gravel roads you've got over there in Iowa definitely call for something more dedicated to the task. Don't think I'd want a converted touring bike for a ride of any distance there. Nice bikes, by the way.

Wildwood 

Depends on the gravel.

For most situations (possibly not loaded touring on gravel), just about any bike with slack angles, long wheelbase, room for 38+mm tires should work. Discs are a good upgrade but not required. Wider handlebars than std drop bar road bikes. The ability to withstand the constant vibration of gravel, both on bike and body.

1991 G.Fisher Supercaliber - a x-country racer - serves my needs. Can go wider without the fenders.

Could use a longer wheelbase, lower CoG as a light snow bike.

rustystrings61 

This is my purpose-built all-roads bike - a 1973 Raleigh Competition MK II built up as a 4-speed single-speed/fixed-gear -




35mm Continental Cyclocross speed tires, 44/42 chainrings, Surly 17/19T fixed Dingle cog on one side of the hub, 20/22T White Industries freewheel on the other. Gives me a 70-in fixed for pavement, 60-in fixed for gravel, 60-in freewheel general noodling around and 52-in for mild singletrack. Same side gear changes are sub-30 seconds.



I also rode this ‘73 Raleigh Gran Sport on gravel, and had I kept it I would have shod it with 27 x 1 1/4-in Paselas.


2002 Derek Land-built Mercian Vincitore custom road fixed gear, 531 throughout

This Mercian has the honor of the most gravel miles, though. 70-in fixed for pavement, 63-in for gravel on 28mm tires. Lots of good fire roads around here.

When I get my Lighthouse built I plan on riding dirt and gravel roads on that as well.

We note that I am a huge fan of underbiking …

delbiker1 

I do very little gravel riding, and what I do ride is of the less course gravel. I have a Lemond Poprad that will fit some 35mm tires. If I was more serious about it, I would definitely being looking for something that will take wider tires, like older steel frame mountain bike, such as Specialized Rock hopper or Stump jumper. I definitely would not be looking to spend a lot of money on a new "gravel bike".

plumberroy

I don't like drop bars . I recently finished a bike that I started several years ago. I had not been riding do to health reasons. Just getting back to riding so I finished making the bike what I want. Comfortable explorer for dirt , gravel etc. 95 Univega Alpina 501. Nitto Bosco bars, suntour bar end shifters better seat , topeak rack. I have wrapped the handlebars with gray Paracord and added wider pedals (foot issues) this bike is to explore dirt paths gravel roads. Find fishing holes etc

52telecaster

Rode a bunch of gravel on my 71 professional today in Acadia national Park.

jamesdak 

My current attempt is a 1985 Raleigh Team USA. It's currently running mainly Suntour Superbe components with a 48/34 crank I just put on it. 11-30 8 speed cassette with Fulcrum Racing 1 wheels. The saddle is an old suspension saddle where the rails are in bushings. I decided to swap out the knobby tires for some Gravelkings and may swap the wheels too. If there's enough space I'd like to get some fenders on it.


New pedals as of yesterday

Original configuration

Added the 48/34T crank

scarlson 

I dunno about some of this stuff. A lot of the things that have been posted here seem to be more matters of personal opinion. Wide bars, slack angles, disc brakes, I dunno if they are any better for gravel roads. I prefer the opposite, even down to these class IV roads in northern new england with rocks and ruts and mud. But I don't want to start a debate. That's why I said, any bike you ride on gravel is a gravelbike. Once I did 15 or 20 miles of ATV trails on my Vitus 979 as part of an 80-miles-to-cape-cod adventure. Twas indeed an adventure, but bike and rider made it out alive! The hybrid bikes and MTBs are equally good as my touring angle on things. Dirtdrops, rando bars, compact, narrow, wide, bullmoose, mustache bars, porteurs, risers, flat, anything goes! Maybe that's why gravel is "in" these days.