Attaching head badge?
07-27-16, 08:53 AM
#1
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Attaching head badge?
When I repainted my Centurion Mixte frame I removed the head badge.
Now that I'm getting ready to reassemble everything. I need to replace it.
What did you all use for new rivets for attaching it to the steer tube?
I would rather not use pop rivets.
Some kind of aluminum or maybe copper? Plastic?
I don't want to install the fork till I get this done.
If I can't find a good solution I might just not put it back on and maybe get some kind of decal to put in it's place.
The bike, by this point is all custom any way. And I have renamed it Duchess .
Now that I'm getting ready to reassemble everything. I need to replace it.
What did you all use for new rivets for attaching it to the steer tube?
I would rather not use pop rivets.
Some kind of aluminum or maybe copper? Plastic?
I don't want to install the fork till I get this done.
If I can't find a good solution I might just not put it back on and maybe get some kind of decal to put in it's place.
The bike, by this point is all custom any way. And I have renamed it Duchess .
07-27-16, 09:03 AM
#2
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Depends on the badge. Is it the circular silver colored 'C'? On a brass colored one like raleigh/brass screws. What ever matches. Of course you could glue it. Installing the fork would be fine/meaning not a prerequisit.
07-27-16, 09:14 AM
#3
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It's not easy to find rivets small enough.
Ideally what you want is a 'split' or 'bifurcated' rivet. Brass, copper, stainless steel, aluminum, any of these would do. Zinc plated steel is second choice; but the difficulty will be finding rivets small enough.
A few years ago I got a hundred tiny little rivets from rivetsinstock.com, which was far more than I needed, so I sold off the rest of them here; but my stash is long gone and they don't seem to have such small ones in stock any more.
If you can't find suitable rivets, glue the badge on and glue little nail heads into the rivet holes.
Ideally what you want is a 'split' or 'bifurcated' rivet. Brass, copper, stainless steel, aluminum, any of these would do. Zinc plated steel is second choice; but the difficulty will be finding rivets small enough.
A few years ago I got a hundred tiny little rivets from rivetsinstock.com, which was far more than I needed, so I sold off the rest of them here; but my stash is long gone and they don't seem to have such small ones in stock any more.
If you can't find suitable rivets, glue the badge on and glue little nail heads into the rivet holes.
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07-27-16, 09:17 AM
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It's either tiny pop rivets, tiny screws that you screw in, or tiny little screws that you pound in. The first two you can imagine, here's the ones you pound in:
You usually have to snap off the inside of the screws or else the steerer rubs, in my experience. An old screwdriver and a hammer works for me.
Only place I've found them is eBay
You usually have to snap off the inside of the screws or else the steerer rubs, in my experience. An old screwdriver and a hammer works for me.
Only place I've found them is eBay
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07-27-16, 09:33 AM
#5
Banned
Make rather than shop to Find?
TINY tubing and copper wire can Become rivets , you just need to make a Head on both ends ..
One inside one outside , holding the badge on.
TINY tubing and copper wire can Become rivets , you just need to make a Head on both ends ..
One inside one outside , holding the badge on.
07-27-16, 09:35 AM
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I still have a dozen, or so, of these screw rivets and a proper sized drill bit to facilitate attachment, just in case the original holes have been enlarged...
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07-27-16, 10:27 AM
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I just used some adhesive for automotive trim on my raleigh. Then fashioned a few small brass finish nails into faux rivets and glued them into place.
07-27-16, 10:29 AM
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I haven't been able to find rivets small enough either, they do seem to be available but none of the hardware stores carry them. My solution in the past has been a little ball of epoxy putty for each attachment point on the head badge, just put the putty over the holes in the head tube, line up the head badge and press, a little of the putty will come through the hole in the headbadge and headtube, just press it down a little and it'll look like a grey rivet head. If you ever need to remove the headbadge just knock off the end of the putty plug inside the head tube and it'll pop right off
07-27-16, 10:35 AM
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Silicone adhesive.
Use it for the badge and nail heads as faux rivets or just screw heads as faux screws.
Use it for the badge and nail heads as faux rivets or just screw heads as faux screws.
07-27-16, 10:47 AM
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It's either tiny pop rivets, tiny screws that you screw in, or tiny little screws that you pound in. The first two you can imagine, here's the ones you pound in:
You usually have to snap off the inside of the screws or else the steerer rubs, in my experience. An old screwdriver and a hammer works for me.
Only place I've found them is eBay
You usually have to snap off the inside of the screws or else the steerer rubs, in my experience. An old screwdriver and a hammer works for me.
Only place I've found them is eBay
I have also epoxied head badges on. Works fine too.
07-27-16, 10:52 AM
#11
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My poor, long gone Pinarello came from the factory with two sided tape holding the head badge on. It was like the 3M stuff, maybe a 32nd of an inch thick piece of foam that was sticky on both sides. After the frame was destroyed in a crash, I took the badge off with dental floss.
07-27-16, 11:05 AM
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07-27-16, 12:22 PM
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After powder coating my daughter's '81 Fuji, I used the heads of some extra stainless steel spokes as faux rivets, held in place by epoxy.
I cut off the spoke head with a Dremel, leaving maybe 3/16" of the spoke shaft. I put some epoxy in the head tube's holes, inserted my faux rivets, and mashed the epoxy into place firmly with my fingers from inside the head tube.
There's also a touch of contact cement between the badge and the head tube to stick the badge in place and prevent the potential for rattles.
I cut off the spoke head with a Dremel, leaving maybe 3/16" of the spoke shaft. I put some epoxy in the head tube's holes, inserted my faux rivets, and mashed the epoxy into place firmly with my fingers from inside the head tube.
There's also a touch of contact cement between the badge and the head tube to stick the badge in place and prevent the potential for rattles.
07-27-16, 02:01 PM
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I use #2 x 1/8" pan head screws. I don't remember where I bought them though (probably McMaster/Carr).
07-27-16, 02:53 PM
#16
Decrepit Member
For many decades, Schwinn used No. 2 x 3/16" Round Head Type B sheet metal screws to attach head badges. One potential problem with securing them like that today is that particularly desirable head badges like the enameled brass Paramount badges are easier to steal. I've resorted to filling the slot with JB Weld.
07-27-16, 02:57 PM
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I used small machine screws on both Capos. Rivets would look nicer, but the screw heads are tolerable.
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07-27-16, 03:24 PM
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Let's not confuse everybody. They're called drive screws.
And/or U-Drive screws.
U-Drive Screws (Hammer Drive Screws) | The Fastener Resource Center
And/or U-Drive screws.
U-Drive Screws (Hammer Drive Screws) | The Fastener Resource Center
07-27-16, 03:47 PM
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07-27-16, 04:47 PM
#21
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What Scooper said.
07-27-16, 06:11 PM
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Let's not confuse everybody. They're called drive screws.
And/or U-Drive screws.
U-Drive Screws (Hammer Drive Screws) | The Fastener Resource Center
And/or U-Drive screws.
U-Drive Screws (Hammer Drive Screws) | The Fastener Resource Center
Yes, "drive screws" is correct. I used them to attach the "flaming torch" head badge on my Dawes, and they look great.
I still haven't figured out how to remove them, though. My assumption is that I won't live long enough for that to become an issue.
But how do you remove them? Does anyone know?
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07-27-16, 07:19 PM
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Wow those drive screws look better than my brass nail heads. I may have to go get a few of those.
07-27-16, 08:30 PM
#25
Disraeli Gears
McMaster-Carr also has aluminum rivets with 1/16" shank and 0.13" diameter head. For a few of them, you could chuck one in a drill, and turn down the heads with emery boards, followed by wet-or-dry and Simichrome. Could even turn down the shank a bit, if you're clever.
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