BNB

I'm in the market for a torque wrench and I've read several posts and still undecided. The first thing for me is that using a torque wrench is not an option. I'm not a "pro" and I don't work on my own bikes enough to get at "feel" - meaning my bikes don't break often or need work. I do not use bike shop mechanics any more because of too many bad experiences with them at my expense both with bad repairs and $$$. I took a bike mechanic course years ago and we used a mariposa torque wrench but it is expensive. These are the ones I'm looking at now. One big question I have is how do I trust these are calibrated correctly? I don't have a means to calibrate them myself. What torque wrench (meaning a tool that you hold in your hand) do you use?

Pro Bike Tool
Giustaforza (mariposa)
BBB Cycling

Iride01 

Do they have a calibration certificate with them? Some manufacturers have to contractually abide by and ensure that they are using proper torques. These calibration certificates are legal proof of that. Though like fire extinguishers, they have to be checked and re-certified every so often.

For a bicycle though, just tight enough so the part doesn't slip and not so tight that you distort the fastener or part it's holding is sufficient IMO.

Litespud

I have a couple of beam-type wrenches (3/8” and 1/4”) for the bike. There’s really nothing to go out of adjustment with these - just ensure that the pointer is zeroed before you start, and don’t abuse them. They’re cheap too. Most big stuff on bikes (like cassettes, cranks and BBs) could use a torque wrench to ensure they’re tight enough, and the small stuff needs a torque wrench to ensure that you’re not over-tightening them. You don’t need expensive click wrenches for these applications. Where torque becomes really important - like installing automotive cylinder heads - I use a good digital wrench.

ThermionicScott 

I use a beam torque wrench. It cost about $20, and while I'm sure it's not 100% accurate, it's way the hell more accurate than my "feel":



I haven't snapped a part or had one come loose on the road, so I'm fully content with our combined abilities.

BNB

I have a beam torque wrench for the bigger stuff. What is the make/brand of the smaller Nm range? I like the idea because of lower cost and don't need calibration, I believe. I don't know if the wrenches on amazon come with certificate of calibration; I will ask if there an "ask a question" link.

OK, found this:
ARES 70213

rydabent

A beam torque wrench will reman accurate much longer than the click type.

2_i 

I use Performance Tool M206 digital torque adapter. It is extremely versatile. It may require some creativity, though, when used in tight spaces.

FBOATSB

There are ways to check your wrench at home, Here is just one.
I don't own a torque wrench, but have used them for decades at work. Calibration is hit and miss at best, same with pressure gages. One place I worked at for two years you had to sign out a calibrated torque wrench and or test gage and turn it back in by end of shift, where it was not signed out again until it was re calibrated.

70sSanO

I have a few torque wrenches I've acquired over the years; 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" (that I used on cars).

As noted above you can calibrate, or at least, test the accuracy of a torque wrench using a weight, or a digital scale. I recently tested all of mine at various torques and recorded the numbers of a card that I keep in the case. All of them were close, but I know if I am torquing to 50 inch lbs if the wrench is 5% under or over. It doesn't matter if it is click or beam, you just have to know how close it is to the readings.

The important thing is knowing the range you will be using. Carbon components are the most critical, but generally a lower torque range.

Here are couple of sites that give you typical bicycle torques...

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...s-and-concepts

https://www.bikeride.com/torque-specifications/

I doubt I would buy a bike specific torque wrench. A good quality 1/4' or 3/8' drive in inch lbs that covers the range is the best bet, a 3/8" is probably a good all around choice. Having one around for occasional non-bike uses is also nice.

I tend to look for a used quality brand on eBay, that looks like it has had little use, than a new cheap Harbor Freight, or Amazon. You just have to test it to know what the numbers are really giving you.

John

SoSmellyAir

I use this inexpensive Topeak mini torque wrench: Amazon.com : Topeak Nano TorqBar 6 with 5 Tool bits, 6nm : Sports & Outdoors. (There are also 5 nm and 4 nm models, or you can buy the set of all three.)

I use it for the bolts for my seat post clamp, my saddle clamp, my stem, and my STI levers. All but the stem are in tight spaces, but can be reached with this mini torque wrench.

I cannot tell how accurate it is; I just assume it is more accurate than tightening by feel.

rm -rf

A bike torque wrench doesn't need extreme accuracy. I'm just trying to avoid too much torque, and to see how I compare to the recommended torque for the component. I often use less than the recommendation for stem bolts, for instance. Torque wrenches are great for getting pairs of bolts consistent, and for learning that "feel" without breaking things.

After having a large and small torque wrench for quite a few years, I don't use them on everything now. I now have a good feel for stem bolts and seatpost bolts. A "Y" wrench tightened with two fingers gives me a decent feel for these.
I use a torque wrench every time with the pair of crankarm bolts on the non-drive crank.

I have the well-designed Abbey Tools cassette tool, expensive but beautifully made. It's handle is a good length for tightening cassettes to a reasonable torque with a moderate arm pull. (I tried a reasonable pull with the Abbey, then used the torque wrench with my old cassette tool to check the torque value.) I don't think the cassette torque is extremely critical, it just has to be enough that it doesn't loosen, and I don't want to strip the threads by overtightening.

~~~~
A couple of years ago, I bought a very cheap Harbor Freight clicking torque wrench, thinking it might be easier than the 1/4 inch Park Tool beam wrench. The two matched up extremely well within their ranges, so I think both are more than accurate enough.

zandoval 

I used a Beam Torque wrench for many many years and have now gone to a Harbor Freight ChiCom 20 USD Click Torque Wrench. It's great. Of note... I have had to use a torque wrench more often now that I am loosing strength, and with it accuracy, in my hands due to age. A torque wrench is a good idea, especially for someone who does not do allot of regular wrenching...

rm -rf

Park Tool beam torque wrench
It's easy to see if my beam wrench is off adjustment--does it go to zero with no load? yes, it does.
It can be hard to see the scale at times, if it's facing away or down low. But I really like to be able to see how the torque is increasing and how close to my target I'm getting. Unlike a click torque wrench, which is either "on" or "off".

My old 1/4 inch wrench had a few annoyances. It's scale is in inch-pounds and kg-cm. The conversion is 1 Nm=10.2 kg-cm, close enough to use 50 as 5.0 Nm. Still annoying.
And the 1/4 drive needs an adapter. I have a 1/4 to hex socket, so I can use power screwdriver bits, and an extender for tight spaces.
I quite often want to go a little off the scale, which maxes at 6 Nm.

The newer 3/8 version is way better.
3/8 drive--yes.
Scale from 0 to 14 Nm, much better.

I'd want a 3/8 to hex adapter, and a short 3/8 extension. Perhaps a set of 3/8 hex drivers from Harbor Freight to avoid the adapter. No loose driver bits this way.

BNB

Thanks for the info and interesting reads. Nice review of physics 101 regarding method to calibrate your wrench.

Koyote

The lead mechanic at my LBS uses one of these, so I bought one. So far, so good.

I also have an older Park beam-type torque wrench, which is foolproof but a bit more cumbersome in practice.

SoSmellyAir

If I had known about this torque wrench, I would have considered the 3T ARX II stem with only a single T30 bolt for the steerer tube.

Koyote

I had to google that stem. I don't understand why a specific torque wrench would matter (a T30 bit is not rare), and I also don't understand why anyone would buy that stem.