Trek 620 on 700x48 Tires??? A $10 New School Frame Shows The Way
#126
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Just sped skimmed through the thread. Awesome work, thanks for taking the time to put it all together. Like someone else said, I miss the Trek blue. There's just something about those era Trek's paint. I was also going to ask about going tubeless. Do you ever ride off the pavement. like proper gravel roads?
Also, good call on the DA 9000, best looking Shimano group ever made and that long cage hack is amazing, I'll remember that one for future use!
Also, good call on the DA 9000, best looking Shimano group ever made and that long cage hack is amazing, I'll remember that one for future use!
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#127
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Just sped skimmed through the thread. Awesome work, thanks for taking the time to put it all together. Like someone else said, I miss the Trek blue. There's just something about those era Trek's paint. I was also going to ask about going tubeless. Do you ever ride off the pavement. like proper gravel roads?
Also, good call on the DA 9000, best looking Shimano group ever made and that long cage hack is amazing, I'll remember that one for future use!
Also, good call on the DA 9000, best looking Shimano group ever made and that long cage hack is amazing, I'll remember that one for future use!
As I've built the 620 for on-road supremacy, gravel has been a distant second for riding. I'd have to drive to it and do it. I still want to, and I've picked up some used gravel tires (for $10 each) in case I want to swap, just after I get all the tubeless goo off the insides of them... My first ride will be with the smooth treaded Somas though, just aired down.
For derailleur hacks, the R9100, R8000, and R7000 generations of Dura-Ace, Ultegra, and 105 use a different outer cage-to-RD-body/pivot interface. I watched a video of a guy that just ho-hummed the same 6800 GS cage pieces onto a 6700 SS derailleur and it worked fine. I'd normally stick with the same generation of component, and if Ultegra or Dura-Ace, just Ultegra or Dura-Ace as Shimano has seen fit to nearly "twin" them in many ways, leaving 105 buy itself (or maybe more "compatible" with Tiagra component?). Either way, if one pays attention, there is some flexibility in options for replacements and hacks/upgrades.
I've been considering carbon bars for a while, but it scared me a little bit with it being such a vital part. I guess if the considerably taller and higher mileage @RiddleOfSteel can honk on them and be fine then so should I. I could probably drop a half a pound or more by swapping out the giant flared gravel bars I have on my Lemond Poprad. You're splashing out for parts is contagious!
All that spent money on many bikes being concentrated into one do-it-all bike means, after selling all of them, I allow myself to spend a little more on (mostly) used components. Of course, pay to play the 11-speed anything and carbon games. You could lop off a huge chunk of money by going 5800 Shimano 105, more generic 11-speed wheels, $20 mini-V brakes, Pasela tires (or just used 700x38s) and alloy bars and seatpost. And no Innicycle headset. It wouldn't weigh 22.25 lbs, but you'd get to the same places I would, and since we wouldn't be racing, we'd get there at the same time.
Thanks! Anybody that can do a good 650B build out of these old Treks gets a thumbs up from me. Takes some investment in the 650B infrastructure to do so!
#128
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That has been my thinking as well (messy, a hassle, inner tubes work fine). Even more so when, to properly true wheels, like these DT Swiss ones, I needed to pierce the tubeless-ready tape to get the Squorx nipple tool (aluminum nipples just melt with a normal tool, as I already experienced) seated on the nipple head. I put two layers of electrical tape as a "patch" but I, in my tubeless ignorance, am disinclined to consider that "patch" good enough for tubeless sealing.
#129
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As I've built the 620 for on-road supremacy, gravel has been a distant second for riding. I'd have to drive to it and do it. I still want to, and I've picked up some used gravel tires (for $10 each) in case I want to swap, just after I get all the tubeless goo off the insides of them... My first ride will be with the smooth treaded Somas though, just aired down.
I did get 3 flats over that period though. 1 snakebite on a rough gravel route and two slow leaks after I rode through some glass near a city, one of which left a sizeable hole in the outer tyre. But they have held up well all things considered.
I have found 3 bar to be the perfect pressure for me. 3.5 bar would sometimes feel harsh and 2.5 bar made the sidewalls wrinkle like a top fuel dragster when braking on tarmac. 2 bar almost made me go over the handlebar when the tyre buckled while braking in a corner on tarmac but that was when I had sprung a leak and was carrying a load.
I'll post a proper review with pictures of the tyre soon.
Not much you can do when the hole gets this big. Even with Schwalbe Aerothans on the inside.
Last edited by JaccoW; 09-11-21 at 01:00 PM.
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#130
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As someone who has now put close to 1000km (~620 miles) on the Somas over a terrain varying from tarmac, gravel, sand, singletrack and whatever some of the trails I rode on in Spain were I can tell they can absolutely fly over the rougher terrain at times. Leaving my road bike friend on his 28mm tyres in the dust.
I did get 3 flats over that period though. 1 snakebite on a rough gravel route and two slow leaks after I rode through some glass near a city, one of which left a sizeable hole in the outer tyre. But they have held up well all things considered.
I have found 3 bar to be the perfect pressure for me. 3.5 bar would sometimes feel harsh and 2.5 bar made the sidewalls wrinkle like a top fuel dragster when braking on tarmac. 2 bar almost made me go over the handlebar when the tyre buckled while braking in a corner on tarmac but that was when I had sprung a leak and was carrying a load.
I'll post a proper review with pictures of the tyre soon.
I did get 3 flats over that period though. 1 snakebite on a rough gravel route and two slow leaks after I rode through some glass near a city, one of which left a sizeable hole in the outer tyre. But they have held up well all things considered.
I have found 3 bar to be the perfect pressure for me. 3.5 bar would sometimes feel harsh and 2.5 bar made the sidewalls wrinkle like a top fuel dragster when braking on tarmac. 2 bar almost made me go over the handlebar when the tyre buckled while braking in a corner on tarmac but that was when I had sprung a leak and was carrying a load.
I'll post a proper review with pictures of the tyre soon.
I continue to put miles on my 620, now with its lighter latex tubes that drop about 3 PSI a day (at least with these tires), and it continues to be a great bike. Even got to do a ride employing all three water bottles. Felt super legit right there. Definitely notice the extra sway with all of them full and going out of the saddle. Want to get it on some gravel soon before rain comes.
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#131
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Keep the reports coming. Quite the build with a classic Trek!
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#132
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Thanks for the great thread. I read it beginning to end this morning. Gave me lots of ideas for the rebuild I'm doing with my 1984 Trek 720 frameset. I also appreciated that you gave yourself the freedom to powder coat a different color. I'm getting work done on the frame and fork too and have been wondering what to do about repainting.
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#133
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Thanks! It's my only rider at this point, after selling the Fuji, and briefly riding the 720/728 as-bought before disassembling it and doing all the work. We have rain for the next handful of days, so either it's complete the one-bike-to-rule-them-all supremacy and put fenders on it (room is tighter under the V-brake cables than I'd like), or just wait to get the 720 rolling. I like my fancy pants newer Dura-Ace, and finding wide enough fenders that look decent with the bike is something I'm not super keen on, especially when I have fenders and a drivetrain setup ready to go for the 720/728.
I'm still trying to find carbon bars in 42cm width and not a million dollars (at least no more than what I paid for the 40cm ones), but am working with the alloy 42cm bars right now. I'm still annoyed at loose-pivot brakes (cantis, V's) and their proclivity towards vibration and thus noise when hooked to slender, road-buzz-absorbing tubing. Those things work brilliantly on Cannondale ST's and beefcake hybrids and MTBs because the tubing is thick enough. I bristle at the thought of doing such a thing to my 720 (putting canti/V mounts on it). Thus the 620 remains a 'loud' bike with buzz or squealing (if really clamping on it) under braking as well as a loud DT Swiss freewheel. I do like a fuss-free and low-noise bike (and car..), so those marks against the 620, which were things I did to it and thus made it that way, remain. It's performance, comfort, speed, and looks remain absolute tops. It loves speed and we both have a great time just locomoting in the big ring or powering out of the saddle for acceleration or climbing. It still rocks and will continue to do so. I honestly don't know what new-to-me frameset could pull those components away from that 620 frameset, and that's a very good "problem" to have.
You are welcome! The blue was very nice, though touched up enough to put things at 50/50. And with the bike/frameset proving itself to be as good as it did, the mission became to aim for the best of what it could be (in a very practical sense). A magnum opus type build. Knowing all the components I have on it now, I sometimes thing it would have been fun to do a loony color like fuchsia metallic or Spaceballs Rainbow Glow Metallic 9000 like a lot of modern bikes, and really rub it in the face of The Current Year bikes, but I went with--especially with the silver elements of the 9000-era Dura-Ace--a subtle, classy-yet-quietly-dominant countenance. There's always next time for a funky paint/powder coat job, right? Your 720's red is such a demure red in sunlight. It's really nice, but in any other light is so 'quiet'. Sometimes vintage Trek coloring is a little too quiet, and I opine that they weren't more like certain Fujis or Nishikis or Schwinns. It's the vintage Trek "charm" though. My 720/728 is flippin' taupe...metallic (who does that???), accented with a brown metallic head tube and seat tube panel. Whatever, Trek, you had me at beautiful minimal lugs and full, lightweight, double-butted 531 tubing that rides amazingly. I guess I'll just have to survive!
I'm still trying to find carbon bars in 42cm width and not a million dollars (at least no more than what I paid for the 40cm ones), but am working with the alloy 42cm bars right now. I'm still annoyed at loose-pivot brakes (cantis, V's) and their proclivity towards vibration and thus noise when hooked to slender, road-buzz-absorbing tubing. Those things work brilliantly on Cannondale ST's and beefcake hybrids and MTBs because the tubing is thick enough. I bristle at the thought of doing such a thing to my 720 (putting canti/V mounts on it). Thus the 620 remains a 'loud' bike with buzz or squealing (if really clamping on it) under braking as well as a loud DT Swiss freewheel. I do like a fuss-free and low-noise bike (and car..), so those marks against the 620, which were things I did to it and thus made it that way, remain. It's performance, comfort, speed, and looks remain absolute tops. It loves speed and we both have a great time just locomoting in the big ring or powering out of the saddle for acceleration or climbing. It still rocks and will continue to do so. I honestly don't know what new-to-me frameset could pull those components away from that 620 frameset, and that's a very good "problem" to have.
Thanks for the great thread. I read it beginning to end this morning. Gave me lots of ideas for the rebuild I'm doing with my 1984 Trek 720 frameset. I also appreciated that you gave yourself the freedom to powder coat a different color. I'm getting work done on the frame and fork too and have been wondering what to do about repainting.
#134
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You are welcome! The blue was very nice, though touched up enough to put things at 50/50. And with the bike/frameset proving itself to be as good as it did, the mission became to aim for the best of what it could be (in a very practical sense). A magnum opus type build. Knowing all the components I have on it now, I sometimes thing it would have been fun to do a loony color like fuchsia metallic or Spaceballs Rainbow Glow Metallic 9000 like a lot of modern bikes, and really rub it in the face of The Current Year bikes, but I went with--especially with the silver elements of the 9000-era Dura-Ace--a subtle, classy-yet-quietly-dominant countenance. There's always next time for a funky paint/powder coat job, right? Your 720's red is such a demure red in sunlight. It's really nice, but in any other light is so 'quiet'. Sometimes vintage Trek coloring is a little too quiet, and I opine that they weren't more like certain Fujis or Nishikis or Schwinns. It's the vintage Trek "charm" though. My 720/728 is flippin' taupe...metallic (who does that???), accented with a brown metallic head tube and seat tube panel. Whatever, Trek, you had me at beautiful minimal lugs and full, lightweight, double-butted 531 tubing that rides amazingly. I guess I'll just have to survive!
#135
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I had the 720 frame sitting in the front hallway for a few weeks (much to my wife's chagrin). I'd imagine it looking kind of a boring red (not far off from my mid-80s Nishiki Continental) but then I'd look at it and be blown away by the subtle beauty of the deep metallic red and the contrasting blue decals. A previous owner had wrenched on a kickstand pretty tightly so the bottom of the chainstay are missing paint but otherwise the paint job looked pretty great. Then I decided to get the brake posts on the frame and fork as well as the funky seatpost clamp redone and suddenly the bike is going to be missing a lot of paint and a decision needs to be made. I've always wanted a bike in a British Racing Green type color. This may be the one. I love the matte look on your bike and hadn't considered that before. That may end up being part of the look too on my bike.
#136
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Keep in mind that my 620 here is a satin and not matte--there's some sheen to it, and that matters (to me)! Again, I looked at my planned build and purpose for the frame/bike in conjunction with its personality that I had discovered so far. A dark metallic blue looks nice, but Trek's original blue combined with the components I wanted to put on, plus knowing what kind of character the bike/frame had when riding, said a different color would likely be more appropriate. Gloss level, saturation, hue, and any additional effect like metallic or pearl--all can be employed when searching for something that you like and that fits with the bike's character and componentry, should you decide to care that much to do so. Or you can simply like a color and build the bike around that. BRG is a great color. In matte form, it's a bit of a military vibe, and in gloss, it's just a classic. Silver/polished components and tan wall tires would look excellent on it, but so would some choice gloss black elements (like a stem and seatpost, perhaps even a rim like an Open Pro black with machined brake tracks and silver hubs/spokes). The classy black elements can give depth, allure, and even impart a bit of moodiness. Obviously I find this fun to do, composing a bike not only for the ride/performance, but for the aesthetic.
The decision around silver/polished vs gloss black is going to occupy a significant amount of time in the months ahead.
I don't have enough posts to put up a picture but I just received another frameset in the mail today that may jump to the head of the queue, mainly because I don't need to do anything to it to start a build! Once I get enough posts, maybe I'll start a thread.
You've set the bar high with this one and the one on the 720/728!
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#137
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Thanks for the thoughtful response! I actually misstated my point. I meant satin not matte. I don't think I've ever seen a bike with a matte finish! Can't imagine it would be very durable.
The decision around silver/polished vs gloss black is going to occupy a significant amount of time in the months ahead.
I don't have enough posts to put up a picture but I just received another frameset in the mail today that may jump to the head of the queue, mainly because I don't need to do anything to it to start a build! Once I get enough posts, maybe I'll start a thread.
You've set the bar high with this one and the one on the 720/728!
The decision around silver/polished vs gloss black is going to occupy a significant amount of time in the months ahead.
I don't have enough posts to put up a picture but I just received another frameset in the mail today that may jump to the head of the queue, mainly because I don't need to do anything to it to start a build! Once I get enough posts, maybe I'll start a thread.
You've set the bar high with this one and the one on the 720/728!
Don't worry about giving you and your 720 some time to gel. It can either solidify your original intent with it, or take you to a different conclusion (even to the conclusion of not liking it enough to want to keep it, in spite of what many others say).
#138
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Just as a for-the-record update here, because the absurdity is strong with me and this build, I finally found a 42cm (CTC) carbon handlebar--my preferred width--to replace not only the originally-installed 40cm bar (too narrow), but also the interim 42cm aluminum bar I've had for a little bit. 222g of glossy finish FSA SL-K loveliness, at a lovely, used-component price (as opposed to the considerable-yet-still-used cost of the 40cm carbon bars--I am saving mad money here).
All that to say, this bike weighs a literal whisper over 10kg, and so, for all intensive porpoises, this bike is 10.0 kg or 22.0 lbs. Super stupid, but in a really good way. Carbon bars are legit when it comes to smoothing the road buzz and small bumps/hits out of things. If your roads are smooth or not too eventful, you'll be fine without carbon. If you rock the city road system or any surface that's a bit more 'communicative', then carbon handlebars are a really great friend to have. That is my honest assessment. It's good to be 'home'. My '82 720 will keep its Nitto Noodle bars for all the obvious reasons, but on this full feature, modern-component-adorned 620, it's carbon. It is my ultimate road bike.
All that to say, this bike weighs a literal whisper over 10kg, and so, for all intensive porpoises, this bike is 10.0 kg or 22.0 lbs. Super stupid, but in a really good way. Carbon bars are legit when it comes to smoothing the road buzz and small bumps/hits out of things. If your roads are smooth or not too eventful, you'll be fine without carbon. If you rock the city road system or any surface that's a bit more 'communicative', then carbon handlebars are a really great friend to have. That is my honest assessment. It's good to be 'home'. My '82 720 will keep its Nitto Noodle bars for all the obvious reasons, but on this full feature, modern-component-adorned 620, it's carbon. It is my ultimate road bike.
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#139
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Riddle, I don't know how I missed this thread, but WOW, What a build up!! I LOVE this set up!
It's more than "an old frame with new components" it's its own new catagory, so nice it deserves this two year bump!
It's more than "an old frame with new components" it's its own new catagory, so nice it deserves this two year bump!
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#140
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Man, so much has happened since then. I've flirted with selling the 620 a few times, especially after picking up the '82 720 I have now, but I keep keeping it around. As it stands, it is going back to more or less its "Super 620" roots. The Chorus double crankset is tripleized, the rear cassette is 11-32, and although it's been sporting 9-speed downtube shifters, I am taking a pair of modern R3000 Sora 3x9 levers, sanding the paint off, and polishing them. It's also wearing 40mm Donnelly XPlor gravel tires with the brown side wall against TB14 rims. Rides really well, even corners well for a big tire bike. Really digging it!
I may hop back to Dura-Ace. Thinning the herd right now and parts are on a different frame (all $15 of it!).
Pre-R3000 STIs right now:
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#141
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Thanks!
Man, so much has happened since then. I've flirted with selling the 620 a few times, especially after picking up the '82 720 I have now, but I keep keeping it around. As it stands, it is going back to more or less its "Super 620" roots. The Chorus double crankset is tripleized, the rear cassette is 11-32, and although it's been sporting 9-speed downtube shifters, I am taking a pair of modern R3000 Sora 3x9 levers, sanding the paint off, and polishing them. It's also wearing 40mm Donnelly XPlor gravel tires with the brown side wall against TB14 rims. Rides really well, even corners well for a big tire bike. Really digging it!
I may hop back to Dura-Ace. Thinning the herd right now and parts are on a different frame (all $15 of it!).
Pre-R3000 STIs right now:
Man, so much has happened since then. I've flirted with selling the 620 a few times, especially after picking up the '82 720 I have now, but I keep keeping it around. As it stands, it is going back to more or less its "Super 620" roots. The Chorus double crankset is tripleized, the rear cassette is 11-32, and although it's been sporting 9-speed downtube shifters, I am taking a pair of modern R3000 Sora 3x9 levers, sanding the paint off, and polishing them. It's also wearing 40mm Donnelly XPlor gravel tires with the brown side wall against TB14 rims. Rides really well, even corners well for a big tire bike. Really digging it!
I may hop back to Dura-Ace. Thinning the herd right now and parts are on a different frame (all $15 of it!).
Pre-R3000 STIs right now:
If I sell two bikes to buy one, that's still thinning the herd, right?
#142
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Selling two bikes to buy one, leaving you with one, would be both a gross thinning of the herd as well as a net thinning of the herd. There may be a few more tall bikes in your size in your neighborhood up for sale, but if you're looking for '85 620s, yeah, they're not very common. I've seen a few pop up on CL in other states and maybe 1 in the US. A super ragged one was at Recycled Cycles briefly as a frameset a year ago or so, but I already had a fully-invested-in 620 (seen here) and a second didn't make sense.