Bar-con cable management
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,452
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 988 Post(s)
Liked 656 Times
in
414 Posts
Bar-con cable management
In another topic, where I suspect it was not seen, I posted "First time dealing with barcons in so many decades. After the rebuild the SunTour shifters seem to work really well — but the cable routing strikes me as really inelegant, I have a clip holding the cables together below the handlebars, and I still need a zip-tie directly above the housing stop on the downtube to keep the cables from drooping. Moreover, the shift cable housing comes rather close to the front brake’s straddle cable assembly. Is there a fix?" I really do not want to leave the cables like this, interested in input on a better installation, altohuhgt "everything works" right now.
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Likes For tiger1964:
#2
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,108
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 842 Post(s)
Liked 255 Times
in
115 Posts
Yeah. I don't like that either. What I do is exit the brake housing just below the brake levers, where there is a more or less natural opening in the bar tape. Let's see if I can find a pic . . . . Ah!
You can see here how the cable is taped to the bar.
And how the cable exits the bar just under the brake lever.
You can see here how the cable is taped to the bar.
And how the cable exits the bar just under the brake lever.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Likes For Aubergine:
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,097
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 269 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4521 Post(s)
Liked 6,412 Times
in
3,690 Posts
In another topic, where I suspect it was not seen, I posted "First time dealing with barcons in so many decades. After the rebuild the SunTour shifters seem to work really well — but the cable routing strikes me as really inelegant, I have a clip holding the cables together below the handlebars, and I still need a zip-tie directly above the housing stop on the downtube to keep the cables from drooping. Moreover, the shift cable housing comes rather close to the front brake’s straddle cable assembly. Is there a fix?" I really do not want to leave the cables like this, interested in input on a better installation, altohuhgt "everything works" right now.
Made the cables a little short but they work and look pretty good to my eye.
I always used to exit at the brake lever but haven't been able to get the look right now days.
With the super slick cables we have now, some have had good luck wrapping to the top of the bar, doesn't work for me but seems like it can be ok.
I think fancy robust casing is hard to get right with them.
Length especially and exit are critical to how they "sit".
The old bare casing always seemed to work ok and look right but is also inelegant.
I have some casing from Serbia that is very good, looks like the original but has plain clear casing that is perfect to me, I need to try and get some more, its what I used on the Merz.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 505
Bikes: Raleigh Super Course, Raleigh International, Raleigh Gran Sport
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 252 Post(s)
Liked 319 Times
in
198 Posts
In another topic, where I suspect it was not seen, I posted "First time dealing with barcons in so many decades. After the rebuild the SunTour shifters seem to work really well — but the cable routing strikes me as really inelegant, I have a clip holding the cables together below the handlebars, and I still need a zip-tie directly above the housing stop on the downtube to keep the cables from drooping. Moreover, the shift cable housing comes rather close to the front brake’s straddle cable assembly. Is there a fix?" I really do not want to leave the cables like this, interested in input on a better installation, altohuhgt "everything works" right now.
Likes For daka:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,097
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 269 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4521 Post(s)
Liked 6,412 Times
in
3,690 Posts
In another topic, where I suspect it was not seen, I posted "First time dealing with barcons in so many decades. After the rebuild the SunTour shifters seem to work really well — but the cable routing strikes me as really inelegant, I have a clip holding the cables together below the handlebars, and I still need a zip-tie directly above the housing stop on the downtube to keep the cables from drooping. Moreover, the shift cable housing comes rather close to the front brake’s straddle cable assembly. Is there a fix?" I really do not want to leave the cables like this, interested in input on a better installation, altohuhgt "everything works" right now.
I always lock the cable to the bar with electrical tape, full wrap to the exit and 2-3 at the exit so it stays put and doesn't mess with the actual bar tape.
It can squirm around under use and make mess where it exits.
Likes For merziac:
#6
Crawlin' up, flyin' down
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley
Posts: 5,671
Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 2,551 Times
in
1,066 Posts
I just run the cable along the flat of the "drops" and straight out from there. It makes for the smoothest cable run and I'm okay with the look, even if it isn't the most elegant visual ever.
It appears Rik van Looy ran his all the way up to the top of the bars, as shown in the photos.
It appears Rik van Looy ran his all the way up to the top of the bars, as shown in the photos.
__________________
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
Likes For bikingshearer:
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,452
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 988 Post(s)
Liked 656 Times
in
414 Posts
Thanks for the quick responses!
I just grabbed the bike and pulled the cable/housing up to the brake lever; looks like a "probable" using the existing cables/housing. If not, yet another Velo Orange order... I guess that's OK.
I have plenty of electric tape, and am not afraid to use it!
If the shift cables were not so close to fouling the front brake, I'd leave it too! I should get the owner's input.
I definitely cannot do that with the existing cables! Does that impact the quality (a) of shifting, or (b) of the steering?
Yeah. I don't like that either. What I do is exit the brake housing just below the brake levers, where there is a more or less natural opening in the bar tape. Let's see if I can find a pic . . . . Ah! You can see here how the cable is taped to the bar. And how the cable exits the bar just under the brake lever.
I made the big silver Merz analog for Eroica last year, switched it to SunTour barcons and plain brake levers. Made the cables a little short but they work and look pretty good to my eye. I always used to exit at the brake lever but haven't been able to get the look right now days. With the super slick cables we have now, some have had good luck wrapping to the top of the bar, doesn't work for me but seems like it can be ok. I think fancy robust casing is hard to get right with them. Length especially and exit are critical to how they "sit". The old bare casing always seemed to work ok and look right but is also inelegant. I have some casing from Serbia that is very good, looks like the original but has plain clear casing that is perfect to me, I need to try and get some more, its what I used on the Merz.
I don't have a photo but I've wrapped a number of bars with end shifters for the Bike Exchange. What I find works best is to wrap the housing under the tape up to the bottom of the brake levers, similar to Aubergine's illustration. That helps keep the cables from getting mixed up with fingers that are trying to use the brakes. Your existing housings may already be long enough, just try rewrapping the bars keeping the housing under the tape up to the levers.
I definitely cannot do that with the existing cables! Does that impact the quality (a) of shifting, or (b) of the steering?
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#8
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,108
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 842 Post(s)
Liked 255 Times
in
115 Posts
Tiger, I have run the housing to the top of the bars a couple times (usually when the bike has aero brake cables as well). It does not affect shifting quality or steering as far as I can tell, but I still prefer the exit under the brake lever, just to be sure there is no impediment.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
#9
Crawlin' up, flyin' down
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley
Posts: 5,671
Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 2,551 Times
in
1,066 Posts
__________________
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
Likes For bikingshearer:
#10
Garage tetris expert
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 897
Bikes: A few. Ok, a lot
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 389 Post(s)
Liked 697 Times
in
333 Posts
In another topic, where I suspect it was not seen, I posted "First time dealing with barcons in so many decades. After the rebuild the SunTour shifters seem to work really well — but the cable routing strikes me as really inelegant, I have a clip holding the cables together below the handlebars, and I still need a zip-tie directly above the housing stop on the downtube to keep the cables from drooping. Moreover, the shift cable housing comes rather close to the front brake’s straddle cable assembly. Is there a fix?" I really do not want to leave the cables like this, interested in input on a better installation, altohuhgt "everything works" right now.
Also, those cables look too long for the chosen exit location, so appear extra saggy. Might as well experiment with raising the exit point whilst keeping the same length.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 3,466
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 880 Post(s)
Liked 2,303 Times
in
1,288 Posts
Kind of hard to see with this blurry photo, sorry. This is how these Mondia were rigged from the factory ( copied from an old Bicycling Magazine review , 1973 I think ) and it works well, have just enough room to clear the straddle cable for the brakes. This is my only "bar end" bike. Joe
Likes For Kabuki12:
#12
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,649
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2608 Post(s)
Liked 1,704 Times
in
937 Posts
Everyone has their concept of aesthetic-
On every bike that routes under the BB, I cross the cables in front of the head tube and under the down tube. It just makes for nice, easy cable bends.
If I were to put in bar end shifters, I would use quality modern shift housing and cables and wrap them up to the top and exit at the stem, then cross over to the opposite side cable stop, then cross under the down tube.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/151917295@N05/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/151917295@N05/, on Flickr
In the past I have routed out in front of the head tube- but crossed in front, then under the downtube.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/151917295@N05/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/151917295@N05/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/151917295@N05/, on Flickr
But with good quality modern shift housing and cables, there's no reason to NOT exit tape by the stem... unless you like that look. And for me- I'd just be focusing on how the cable arcs weren't perfectly symmetrical throughout the whole ride.
On every bike that routes under the BB, I cross the cables in front of the head tube and under the down tube. It just makes for nice, easy cable bends.
If I were to put in bar end shifters, I would use quality modern shift housing and cables and wrap them up to the top and exit at the stem, then cross over to the opposite side cable stop, then cross under the down tube.
In the past I have routed out in front of the head tube- but crossed in front, then under the downtube.
But with good quality modern shift housing and cables, there's no reason to NOT exit tape by the stem... unless you like that look. And for me- I'd just be focusing on how the cable arcs weren't perfectly symmetrical throughout the whole ride.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Likes For The Golden Boy:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,316
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1146 Post(s)
Liked 1,768 Times
in
971 Posts
It’s been a few years since I’ve set those up. Bitd I would have the Suntour ratchet shifters cables roll up the bend some enough to lift, not up to the brake levers. Probably half way the bend to the lever.
I have tried the all the way to the top. I thought the run was too long and more friction with the top exiting. I could not get a good feel like I could with the downtube ratchet ones.
Those can be tricky to setup.
I have tried the all the way to the top. I thought the run was too long and more friction with the top exiting. I could not get a good feel like I could with the downtube ratchet ones.
Those can be tricky to setup.
Likes For Mr. 66:
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,491
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1084 Post(s)
Liked 688 Times
in
441 Posts
I run mine like Golden Boy. Up all the way around the bend and across the flats, exit near the stem and then crossed over in front. (Then cross over the cables under the down tube).
Likes For Jeff Neese:
#15
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,850
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,057 Times
in
1,256 Posts
The traditional method looks fine if you keep the cable runs on the tight side. I don't criss cross. It's my preferred routing.
#16
seńor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,642
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3898 Post(s)
Liked 6,506 Times
in
3,223 Posts
Aside from your normal looking barcon routing, what I find inelegant is excessive non-aero brake cable. Maybe try something more like this:
It's also difficult to build an elegant bike with Cane Creek hoods. You have a beautiful Falcon, and it'd be nice if you could find some more appropriate gum hoods for it.
It's also difficult to build an elegant bike with Cane Creek hoods. You have a beautiful Falcon, and it'd be nice if you could find some more appropriate gum hoods for it.
#17
Crawlin' up, flyin' down
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley
Posts: 5,671
Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 2,551 Times
in
1,066 Posts
Kind of hard to see with this blurry photo, sorry. This is how these Mondia were rigged from the factory ( copied from an old Bicycling Magazine review , 1973 I think ) and it works well, have just enough room to clear the straddle cable for the brakes. This is my only "bar end" bike. Joe
[/thread]
__________________
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
Likes For bikingshearer:
#18
Making up the numbers
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 284
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 110 Post(s)
Liked 509 Times
in
163 Posts
Campagnolo 11-speed indexing bar ends with tape sacrilegiously wrapped from the top down to smooth the cable exit on the drops. Short piece of inner tube to secure and seal the tape ends.
Same shifters did not work as well with cables routed along the bars. Cleaner but too many tight bends blunted precision at the rear changer.
Same shifters did not work as well with cables routed along the bars. Cleaner but too many tight bends blunted precision at the rear changer.
__________________
Nothing quite says wall hanger like drillium toe straps
Nothing quite says wall hanger like drillium toe straps
Likes For seagrade:
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 1,835
Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 604 Post(s)
Liked 1,064 Times
in
535 Posts
Never liked the look of the barcon cables coming off the bottom of the bars, so as a few others tried other routings on my Supercourse. I stuck with the 2nd one, not the best illustrative of pics, sorry.
Tim
Tim
Likes For tkamd73:
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,155
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4460 Post(s)
Liked 1,594 Times
in
1,050 Posts
Perhaps the OP could make the shifter cables even longer and zip tie them to the brake cables?
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,712
Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 2,022 Times
in
1,115 Posts
I have run the cables under the tape to the stem before and I will likely do it in the future. But there is noticeable extra friction even with new cables and housing. Also there is some tension in the steering with the cables so short between their exit from the tape and the guides.
You must tape top to bottom--from the brake levers at least. With Bike Ribbon Pro and maybe some others, the edges are tapered so nicely that there is no curling from siding down the ramps.
I try for the fewest smoothest curves in cables. (And of course an elegant flow is strived for.) On my Milwaukee, with the cables run to the top tube, I wrap the cables up into the curve and they head right to the cable guides. This also lets me slide forward in the drops braking without the cables catching my thumbs.
On my Sachs, the cables go to the usual position and I wrap them just past the flats so they gracefully arch into the angle of the downtube.
You must tape top to bottom--from the brake levers at least. With Bike Ribbon Pro and maybe some others, the edges are tapered so nicely that there is no curling from siding down the ramps.
I try for the fewest smoothest curves in cables. (And of course an elegant flow is strived for.) On my Milwaukee, with the cables run to the top tube, I wrap the cables up into the curve and they head right to the cable guides. This also lets me slide forward in the drops braking without the cables catching my thumbs.
On my Sachs, the cables go to the usual position and I wrap them just past the flats so they gracefully arch into the angle of the downtube.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#23
Senior Member
I have used the Suntour Barcons for decades and I had one instance when a shift cable needed replacement and I was unable to get the new cable started through the housing and had to unwrap the bar tape to get it done. Since then I have gone completely ugly and now zip tie the housing to the outside of the handlebar. On my touring bike this is compulsory for easy service on the road, and on the road bike because I am always horsing around with different handlebar and stem combos.
FWIW, running the cable all the way up to the stem is the most elegant way to do it.
FWIW, running the cable all the way up to the stem is the most elegant way to do it.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,155
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4460 Post(s)
Liked 1,594 Times
in
1,050 Posts
I have used the Suntour Barcons for decades and I had one instance when a shift cable needed replacement and I was unable to get the new cable started through the housing and had to unwrap the bar tape to get it done. Since then I have gone completely ugly and now zip tie the housing to the outside of the handlebar. On my touring bike this is compulsory for easy service on the road, and on the road bike because I am always horsing around with different handlebar and stem combos.
FWIW, running the cable all the way up to the stem is the most elegant way to do it.
FWIW, running the cable all the way up to the stem is the most elegant way to do it.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,452
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 988 Post(s)
Liked 656 Times
in
414 Posts
Anyway, the whole point is to not need zip ties...
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Likes For tiger1964: