How to mount guide under BB shell?
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señor miembro
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How to mount guide under BB shell?
I couldn't install the new cartridge bb without damaging the expanding plastic piece and rivet of the original (now trashed) plastic guide. The new guide (pictured) is smooth on the bottom. And the hole in the frame is huge, 8mm across. I would assume cable tension alone will help keep it in place after cables are routed. I thought about using Sugru, a screw, and two-way tape. Thoughts?
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Try some 3M heavy duty double sided tape, the kind that is used to stick numbers on the outside of houses. It'll stay.
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Emblem tape will work.... but if you have index, that performance will suffer.
I would remove the cartridge - tap the hole, with a functional tap, then find a short pan head SS fastener, or short SS set screw, use a washer, nut or jam nut to retain.
do this before reinstalling the cartridge.
does not need to be metric. Just all have to match the other parts.
I would remove the cartridge - tap the hole, with a functional tap, then find a short pan head SS fastener, or short SS set screw, use a washer, nut or jam nut to retain.
do this before reinstalling the cartridge.
does not need to be metric. Just all have to match the other parts.
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Shoo Goo.
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...I use 3M auto trim tape for jobs like that.
...I use 3M auto trim tape for jobs like that.
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^ Me too!
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#7
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Have you done this with success?
Better than two-way tape?
Yes, @repechage, it is indexed using a 6403 rd with 7-speed Shimano on the down tube.
Better than two-way tape?
Yes, @repechage, it is indexed using a 6403 rd with 7-speed Shimano on the down tube.
#8
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I liked all these ideas, but tried the screw version first as I found one that looked perfect. I drilled a tiny hole in the metal cartridge body.
The screw wouldn't thread, so I enlarged the hole with a bigger bit. The photo below was taken after it was enlarged even more by threading in the screw.
I turned the crank as I threaded it in, and it hit the spindle. But after I added the guide with the screw, it works perfectly.
I added blue Loctite just in case. Maybe I'll remove it and add some Sugru to support it even more and prevent water from entering.
You like?
The screw wouldn't thread, so I enlarged the hole with a bigger bit. The photo below was taken after it was enlarged even more by threading in the screw.
I turned the crank as I threaded it in, and it hit the spindle. But after I added the guide with the screw, it works perfectly.
I added blue Loctite just in case. Maybe I'll remove it and add some Sugru to support it even more and prevent water from entering.
You like?
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That is insane. Just sayin.
I’ve seen that bridge before….on an Allez…Sirius? Probably lots of bikes.
I’ve seen that bridge before….on an Allez…Sirius? Probably lots of bikes.
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Have you done this with success?
Better than two-way tape?
Yes, @repechage, it is indexed using a 6403 rd with 7-speed Shimano on the down tube.
Better than two-way tape?
Yes, @repechage, it is indexed using a 6403 rd with 7-speed Shimano on the down tube.
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#12
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I see that I'm late to the party and you've already worked out a solution... but i recently had luck using 3M Badge and Trim Cement that I picked up at an auto parts store for a BB shell that didn't have any holes already drilled in it.
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I guess metal shavings from the drilling won't find their way into the bearings of the BB? The term is, after all, sealed bearings.
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That sheet metal screw will back out, loctite won't save it. You're going to need to slap some shoe goo or something like that to keep both the screw AND the guide in. Really, the guide will be held on by cable tension, but without an adhesive as recommended previous, the guide may wander after the screw falls out.
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I couldn't install the new cartridge bb without damaging the expanding plastic piece and rivet of the original (now trashed) plastic guide. The new guide (pictured) is smooth on the bottom. And the hole in the frame is huge, 8mm across. I would assume cable tension alone will help keep it in place after cables are routed. I thought about using Sugru, a screw, and two-way tape. Thoughts?
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Just to reiterate for those that find this thread down the road when they are looking for a solution. This is the 3M tape I've used successfully on several bike over many years now. It has never failed. If it' good enough to hold much heavier trim pieces on cars it will certainly hold a cable guide.
I've also used it to hold sensors, magnets and such on my bikes. I get the wider version and then trim it to fit invisible under whatever piece I am using it on. I've also been able to remove it without pulling paint off the bikes. Just roll it off like you would tubular tape on a rim and it should calm off cleanly without damaging good paint. They've changed the name a bit from last time I ordered it but the part number is the same.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03615-Scot...2600831&sr=8-9
I've also used it to hold sensors, magnets and such on my bikes. I get the wider version and then trim it to fit invisible under whatever piece I am using it on. I've also been able to remove it without pulling paint off the bikes. Just roll it off like you would tubular tape on a rim and it should calm off cleanly without damaging good paint. They've changed the name a bit from last time I ordered it but the part number is the same.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03615-Scot...2600831&sr=8-9
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Just to reiterate for those that find this thread down the road when they are looking for a solution. This is the 3M tape I've used successfully on several bike over many years now. It has never failed. If it' good enough to hold much heavier trim pieces on cars it will certainly hold a cable guide.
I've also used it to hold sensors, magnets and such on my bikes. I get the wider version and then trim it to fit invisible under whatever piece I am using it on. I've also been able to remove it without pulling paint off the bikes. Just roll it off like you would tubular tape on a rim and it should calm off cleanly without damaging good paint. They've changed the name a bit from last time I ordered it but the part number is the same.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03615-Scot...2600831&sr=8-9
I've also used it to hold sensors, magnets and such on my bikes. I get the wider version and then trim it to fit invisible under whatever piece I am using it on. I've also been able to remove it without pulling paint off the bikes. Just roll it off like you would tubular tape on a rim and it should calm off cleanly without damaging good paint. They've changed the name a bit from last time I ordered it but the part number is the same.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03615-Scot...2600831&sr=8-9
But, to each their own..
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I tried something very similar from a competing vendor initially and it came off after a week or so. Thoroughly cleaned the surfaces first. Personally, prefer the glue method myself as the cable guide is something I'd never remove, in any case, the Loctite 'glue' I use can be removed with acetone so I think it's a better long term solution even if you think you may want to remove the guide down the road.
But, to each their own..
But, to each their own..
As I think about it, my Cherokee Trailhawk came without the homelink garage door openers. So I used this tape to mount a small key fob size opener to the inside of my windshield. It's holding just fine despite being exposed to heat and cold and all the vibrations and such that come with driving off road. I trust the stuff.
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I think I would have epoxied the hole and drilled that for a short screw for placement. It just needs to hold side to side. I don't like the drilled cartridge, only because the next removal could go wonk if you don't remember or pass on to the next one that does service.
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IF, and only if, JB Weld would hold, imagine drilling and tapping for a real machine screw. In another topic, I recently drilled and tapped a previously virgin BB shell and am very confident in the resultant installation. But that would presume the plug of JB Weld wouldn't simply turn in that hole (one would reshape it into a square of oval). A hole that big -- intended originally for an expanding plug?
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I usually screw it on once without the BB in place, to cut the threads in the shell. Then I just cut off or grind down the screw so that there's just enough of it to engage the entire thickness of the shell, and re-install. May require some trial-and-error iterations.
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I believe Eddie did it with bubblegum and extra salty spit.
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