View Poll Results: Which bike would you choose
Trek 520
7
77.78%
Trek 1120
2
22.22%
Custom built with new Trek Frame
0
0%
Voters: 9. You may not vote on this poll
Trek 520 VS 1120 vs building a bike
#1
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Trek 520 VS 1120 vs building a bike
I’m currently riding a 2021 Trek Verve 2 Disk. For riding around town it’s great, but long distances it sucks. I find myself wanting to venture out more on longer rides and find myself wishing for a drop bar road/gravel bike.
In the very near future I will be getting a new job that I plan on commuting to and from via bicycle. I have two job opportunities at the moment. The first is only a 11 mile trip (22 miles round trip) and the second is 18 miles (36 round trip). Both jobs require riding on a mix of pavement and very loose gravel farm roads.
In combination of commuting to work every day, I would like to be able to ride the same recreationally on my weekends touring and bikepacking.
My LBS is recommending the Trek 1120 for its more mountain capacities. Which is where 85% of my recreational activities would be. However I was thinking more along the lines of the 520.
520 Pros:
Price
MIK rack comparability with my Bontrager Commuting Paniers and trunk bag
3x9 transmission
700x40c tires
drop handlebars
520 Cons:
mechanical disk brakes
fixed seat post
1120 Pros:
rack system is more bikepacking friendly
4 Piston Hydraulic Breaks
tubless tires and wheels
dropper seat post
1120 Cons:
price
1x11 transmission
Flat Bars
Custom Pros:
Everything I want in one bike
it would be set up with the components I like without compromising one are to achieve another area
Cons:
PRICE
A lot more time invested ordering and waiting for parts as well as assembly
In the very near future I will be getting a new job that I plan on commuting to and from via bicycle. I have two job opportunities at the moment. The first is only a 11 mile trip (22 miles round trip) and the second is 18 miles (36 round trip). Both jobs require riding on a mix of pavement and very loose gravel farm roads.
In combination of commuting to work every day, I would like to be able to ride the same recreationally on my weekends touring and bikepacking.
My LBS is recommending the Trek 1120 for its more mountain capacities. Which is where 85% of my recreational activities would be. However I was thinking more along the lines of the 520.
520 Pros:
Price
MIK rack comparability with my Bontrager Commuting Paniers and trunk bag
3x9 transmission
700x40c tires
drop handlebars
520 Cons:
mechanical disk brakes
fixed seat post
1120 Pros:
rack system is more bikepacking friendly
4 Piston Hydraulic Breaks
tubless tires and wheels
dropper seat post
1120 Cons:
price
1x11 transmission
Flat Bars
Custom Pros:
Everything I want in one bike
it would be set up with the components I like without compromising one are to achieve another area
Cons:
PRICE
A lot more time invested ordering and waiting for parts as well as assembly
#2
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Personally, I would get the 1120, but that's because I have a 'road touring' bike similar the 520 already. For most of the riding you described, I think the 1120 is too much bike. And if you can fit 40mm tires on the 520 you can take it to some pretty gnarly places, but you have to slow down more than if you had 2.3" or wider.
some other thoughts:
I am just getting used to my first 1X drivetrain and for off road riding it is clearly superior than fiddling with front derailleur shifting. The only downside is a limited top-end speed on the road. I very rarely use the largest cog so I am considering changing from a 28t ring to maybe a 32.
Also, starting with a fully factory built bike and swapping out a few parts (for instance moving to hydraulic brakes or a dropper post on the 520) is usually more cost effective than buying all the parts separately, and you start off with a bike where everything is compatible and works from day one. You can also sell parts you take off to offset the cost of the upgrade.
some other thoughts:
I am just getting used to my first 1X drivetrain and for off road riding it is clearly superior than fiddling with front derailleur shifting. The only downside is a limited top-end speed on the road. I very rarely use the largest cog so I am considering changing from a 28t ring to maybe a 32.
Also, starting with a fully factory built bike and swapping out a few parts (for instance moving to hydraulic brakes or a dropper post on the 520) is usually more cost effective than buying all the parts separately, and you start off with a bike where everything is compatible and works from day one. You can also sell parts you take off to offset the cost of the upgrade.
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2/2
Also, I just looked up the 520 on the Trek website and it says you can fit 29 x 2.0 tires. This very much narrows the capability gap between the 520 and 1120.
Also, I just looked up the 520 on the Trek website and it says you can fit 29 x 2.0 tires. This very much narrows the capability gap between the 520 and 1120.
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Personally, I would get the 1120, but that's because I have a 'road touring' bike similar the 520 already. For most of the riding you described, I think the 1120 is too much bike. And if you can fit 40mm tires on the 520 you can take it to some pretty gnarly places, but you have to slow down more than if you had 2.3" or wider.
some other thoughts:
I am just getting used to my first 1X drivetrain and for off road riding it is clearly superior than fiddling with front derailleur shifting. The only downside is a limited top-end speed on the road. I very rarely use the largest cog so I am considering changing from a 28t ring to maybe a 32.
Also, starting with a fully factory built bike and swapping out a few parts (for instance moving to hydraulic brakes or a dropper post on the 520) is usually more cost effective than buying all the parts separately, and you start off with a bike where everything is compatible and works from day one. You can also sell parts you take off to offset the cost of the upgrade.
some other thoughts:
I am just getting used to my first 1X drivetrain and for off road riding it is clearly superior than fiddling with front derailleur shifting. The only downside is a limited top-end speed on the road. I very rarely use the largest cog so I am considering changing from a 28t ring to maybe a 32.
Also, starting with a fully factory built bike and swapping out a few parts (for instance moving to hydraulic brakes or a dropper post on the 520) is usually more cost effective than buying all the parts separately, and you start off with a bike where everything is compatible and works from day one. You can also sell parts you take off to offset the cost of the upgrade.
My thoughts are/were to get a good gravel bike that would spend 90% of its time commuting and 10% touring/bikepacking. And if I decide to hit the MTB trails I have an old “Walmart” 21 speed suspension bike that would get me through until I could afford a dedicated MTB.
#5
mosquito rancher
If you're set on a Trek, maybe split the difference with the 520 Grando. The thing about the 520 that gives me pause is that it has disc brakes with QR dropouts, which are less and less common. Set aside the discussion of whether you really need through-axles on disc-brake wheels, that's where the industry has gone. Also look at the Checkpoint.
A custom build is satisfying because you get exactly what you want, but it is disproportionately expensive.
If you're not limited to Trek, you've got scads of options. Gravel is the hottest category in cycling right now, and is a broad category ranging from "almost road" to "almost MTB." The Cannondale Topstone might be out of your price range but looks really interesting and is favorably reviewed.
A custom build is satisfying because you get exactly what you want, but it is disproportionately expensive.
If you're not limited to Trek, you've got scads of options. Gravel is the hottest category in cycling right now, and is a broad category ranging from "almost road" to "almost MTB." The Cannondale Topstone might be out of your price range but looks really interesting and is favorably reviewed.
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The LBS is trying to sell me in the 1120 because she knows me well and knows I come from a hardcore MTB/BMX background. She is hoping I will start riding on the local MTB trails…
My thoughts are/were to get a good gravel bike that would spend 90% of its time commuting and 10% touring/bikepacking. And if I decide to hit the MTB trails I have an old “Walmart” 21 speed suspension bike that would get me through until I could afford a dedicated MTB.
My thoughts are/were to get a good gravel bike that would spend 90% of its time commuting and 10% touring/bikepacking. And if I decide to hit the MTB trails I have an old “Walmart” 21 speed suspension bike that would get me through until I could afford a dedicated MTB.
#7
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If you're set on a Trek, maybe split the difference with the 520 Grando. The thing about the 520 that gives me pause is that it has disc brakes with QR dropouts, which are less and less common. Set aside the discussion of whether you really need through-axles on disc-brake wheels, that's where the industry has gone. Also look at the Checkpoint.
A custom build is satisfying because you get exactly what you want, but it is disproportionately expensive.
If you're not limited to Trek, you've got scads of options. Gravel is the hottest category in cycling right now, and is a broad category ranging from "almost road" to "almost MTB." The Cannondale Topstone might be out of your price range but looks really interesting and is favorably reviewed.
A custom build is satisfying because you get exactly what you want, but it is disproportionately expensive.
If you're not limited to Trek, you've got scads of options. Gravel is the hottest category in cycling right now, and is a broad category ranging from "almost road" to "almost MTB." The Cannondale Topstone might be out of your price range but looks really interesting and is favorably reviewed.
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Walmart MTBs often have a disclaimer saying that they're not to be used off road. Even the FS ones. Not that it means anything other than CYA Lawyer BS, but take that for what it's worth. On the other hand, don't buy too much bike that you'll never use the capabilities of. The used bike market is a great thing.
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Commuting and road touring overlap a lot… commuting and plus tire bikepacking do not. The 1120 is a big freaking thing to be pushing that far back and forth to work every day. The 520 is more in the vein you want for commuting. Maybe lighter yet than that. Did you happen to check out an aluminum Checkpoint? Road bikes all have carbon forks to soak up chatter. Many now have sort-of suspension in the way that the rear triangle is shaped. Carbon ones even more so if it’s in the budget, the carbon Domane has pivots in the frame. Touring bikes get none of that, they are built like tanks
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 08-13-21 at 12:02 AM.
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I assume in 3-5 years you'll be wanting N+1. If that's true, go ahead and buy the 520 now; it's probably best for your projected commuting usage, and the 520 changes very slowly, so in that 3-5 years you'll be as happy as you will be tomorrow with the 520. The gravel bike is changing much more rapidly. In 3-5 years if you get the 1120, you'll think it's as modern as Hamurabi's code inscribed on clay tablets. So you'll be ready to roll the 1120 into a deep lake and buy a new bike then, which you may want to do to supplement your 520 commuter anyway.
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Walmart MTBs often have a disclaimer saying that they're not to be used off road. Even the FS ones. Not that it means anything other than CYA Lawyer BS, but take that for what it's worth. On the other hand, don't buy too much bike that you'll never use the capabilities of. The used bike market is a great thing.
However, Walmart MTBs are generally garbage for what would appear to be their intended use. I have nothing against inexpensive bikes in general, but their $300 full suspension bikes are a scourge. They have the appearance of an off-road capable bike in a package that is more fragile than the wooden rims on a 1930s track bike. They are obviously designed to look like off road bikes, but are not. There are some very entertaining videos online of bike enthusiasts buying Walmart bikes and taking them out for a moderately rough trail ride that consumes the bike in a single day.
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On the MTB side the Trek X-Caliber has a good blend of features. You can get it with a good enough fork and a dropper like a nicer bike and yet it has rear dropouts like a cheaper bike - so it has an old style quick release hub, but it also takes rack and fender mounts in the rear and will mount a trailer hitch without modification or special axle.
Roscoe up thru MY21 was the same frame with plus tires and more fork travel, but the new Roscoe is a different bike altogether.
Roscoe up thru MY21 was the same frame with plus tires and more fork travel, but the new Roscoe is a different bike altogether.
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So for those of you that would build a bike, what frame would you start with? What would your dream components be?
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I'm building up a 1988 Schwinn Voyageur with 10 speed Campagnolo shifters, a touring triple crankset, 12-32 Shimano cassette and long cage RD with shift mate, and dynamo front wheel powering front and rear lights with fenders, front and rear racks, and 35 mm Panaracer Paselas for a light touring or commuting build
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My dream commuter bike changes all the time. Right now I'm really enjoying my single speed about 3/4 of the time and the other 1/4 wishing I had gears! Also wish it were a longer reach frame, it's a drop bar frame that I've put some reachy flat bars on. And its components are fairly cheap. So, today...
- Frame and fork: does not exist, would be as follows. Salsa Stormchaser, but with geometry from Journeyman flat bar, halfway between Small and Medium size. PF92 bottom bracket, BSA 68 or 73 acceptable. Keep these cool sliding drops, and big clearance. Shortish seat tube and 30.9 dia so we can go dropper if we want. Evil Chamois Hagar if we are going carbon.
- Wheels: the nicest aluminum gravel wheels from someone or other. DT Swiss 1500's or equivalent.
- Tires: Marathon Almotion tires set up tubeless if we are going for smooth speed, Maxxis Aspen or something like that if going for multi surface
- Shifting: SRAM XO1 11 speed, if geared, but single speed ok. The SRAM x-dome cassette is really cool, Shimano is way way behind
- Brakes: hydraulic disc. Have not tried a lot of options here, have several sets of cheap Tektros on my Salsas. They are a little sloppy in the levers just because they are cheap but do fine once pulled. Doubt they would do that great for heat if really taxed. I'm sure the nicer ones are... nicer.
- Cockpit: Spank Vibrocore handlebar. Several good candidates for dropper seat post, the Bike Yoke Revive is the top of the heap still I think. Carbon if rigid
- Crank and pedals: I want a power meter somewhere in here but like flats for commuting. So likely some reversible pedals and maybe an Easton crank with the long Race Face version of the power meter spindle.
- Seasonal: a powerful flood headlight with the head unit on the handlebar and battery on the frame, a helmet spot light about the same color temperature so it's not distracting, and a broad tail light. Short 1-season fenders, around here.
- Bike stuff. Kryptonite Messenger Mini. Flat kit: Mini pump, Stan's darts, 2oz bottle of sealant, valve tool. If you manage to destroy the tire call an Uber. Combined tool and first aid kit includes a mini Leatherman that gives me knife, scissors, and pliers, and mini roll of duct tape, non stick gauze, as well as some effective drugs for allergic reactions (benadryl+zyrtec, epi pen if you're eligible) and pain. A bike multi tool with a chain breaker and a few quick links.
- Small luggage for bike stuff and lunch, maybe a tail bag to stuff clothes in. Not trying large luggage on this build, much less on the front, that would be a different bike. We are going backpack with this one, we are going to be popping this thing over curbs and the laptop needs to stay on the smoothest moving part, which is you.
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Sometimes I get a hankering to try just everything from one manufacturer that is not SRAM or Shimano or Fox/RF. This can be fun from a company like Hayes or Hope or e13 who make a wide variety of parts that are different enough from the mainstream. I don't actually get to, but it's a fun idea.
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The only 'dream' improvements that I'd make to that would be for a custom titanium frame/fork, fully-slick 2.0 tires, a front rack suitable for panniers or platform use and, the fenders in silver. Until those become a reality, the CrMo F/F, BigApple tires and black fenders will suffice.
#24
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After much thought, and riding the road a couple of times, I have decided to look for a used 520 to build off of.
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#25
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11 speed is the best option in terms of groupset age, wide aftermarket support and best inter brand compatibility. I would put Ultegra Di2 on it, Paul Mini Motos, 650b 42mm slicks, an ITM Ti quill, got a 45mm Nitto B135AA Rando handlebar and a new set of A600 pedals stashed away. I'm just building a new wheelset for my Peugeot, after a crash would use those (Ambrosio rims, Miche hubs).