dirtyphotons

i've had several people ask me how to replace the axle and/or bearings on a formula hub. so i said that next time mine need replacing i'd post a howto. it's a pretty simple process, really.

what you need:
two 15mm wrenches
any other cone wrenches required for your hub
two large washers (if you're replacing bearings you can use the old ones instead of washers -Yoshi)
a hammer
a block of wood (i didn't have any around, so i used an aqua sock)
if you've got a freewheel you'll need a freewheel remover and a wrench for that
this is also a great time to clean and grease your threads.

i actually have four 15mm wrenches shown, two thin cone wrenches and two burlier ones for the track nuts. most formulas use a 17mm locknut but i snapped both of mine years ago. so now it has locknuts off a nashbar hub, which use a 14mm wrench.



oh yeah, and you need your new bearings



first i removed my freewheel. i clamped the tool on with a track nut (had to flip it to get the threads to engage). don't tighten the track nut too hard, you just want to hold the tool on but leave enough play for the freewheel to unscrew a little.



then take off all the nuts on your axle. place the wheel on two chairs so that the axle sits in the gap between and place your block of wood on the axle. give it a good couple smacks, try and make the hammer strikes as vertical as possible. the axle and bearing should pop right out.

edit: i forgot to mention, that this method will likely damage your bearings. if you're swapping axles i'd get some new bearings as well, they're not that expensive.



take the bearing off the loose axle and tap the other bearing out of the hub the same way. since you have no second bearing keeping your axle straight, it's really important to hit the block straight down.

once the bearings are out, wipe off the inside of your hub, this is the only chance you'll get for awhile. edit: best spread a thin layer of grease in there too - ReCycle

then grab the new bearings, slide the axle into the hub, the bearings onto the axle, your two washers outside of that and then your track nuts. edit: Yoshi says you can just use your old bearings instead of the washers, brililant!

then very carefully tighten the track nuts making sure that the bearings go in straight. if they look a little bit off unscrew the nuts, pop the bearing out and start over.



then screw everything back on, make sure the cone/locknuts are tight so they don't get loose and then snap.



profit.

The LT

this is a great post....thanks

breadbox

As far as selecting the correct new bearing - isn't it so that you can read a spec number of your exisitng bearings that will correlate with one of Phil's spec bearings?
Or from any other bearing manufacturer, as long as you have the spec #? I haven't done this but I'm told that's how one would go about it.

dirtyphotons

for formulas you will need "6000" series bearings. phil wood's version are pw000 and cost $2.46 (per bearing). i like em a lot, you can feel the difference just spinning them with your fingers compared to cheaper bearings.

if you have another style of hub the number should be printed somewhere on the bearing.

crushkilldstroy

Nice post, but why in the hell do you own Aqua Socks?

Yoshi

One piece of advice - put the new bearings on, then put the old bearings over them, then put the nuts on and tighten them to get them in the hub. The old bearings will protect the new bearings from getting bent by the nuts.

Gordiep

The OP uses washers between the nuts and the new bearings. Probably easier.

...thanks for the instructable, dirtyphotons-- you answered some questions I've had for a while!

Tonedef131

Great thread, there needs to be more posting like this happening all the time. Thanks.

dirtyphotons

yeah, i was expecting that one. about once a year i go "tubing" in west virginia, on a river that has a lot of broken glass on the bottom. this year i didn't have any old sneakers and flip flops really wont work so i decided to purchase the cheapest closed-toe shoe i could find.

i'd say i've gotten a good buck fifty's use so far out of my three dollar investment.

Yoshi

Ah, missed the part about the washers. Frankly I think it's easier to use the old bearings - they are already there and you aren't going to need them afterwards.

dirtyphotons

good call, could save someone a trip to the hardware store.

queerpunk

cool, thanks!

next question - how do i replace the bearings in my phil wood hub?

dirtyphotons

get your butler to do it moneybags!

srsly though, it looks to be pretty much the same process, just different size bearings.

there's an a-sploded view of a dissassembled phil hub on this page:
https://www.philwood.com/ptechmanual.htm

queerpunk

but...
i didn't pay for it.
i traded a wheel with a formula hub for it.

dirtyphotons

haha, alright then

if i had the skrill (or bartering skills) i'd definitely be rolling on phils.

Re-Cycle

I'm a grease-aholic. After wiping out the hub shell I'd spread a thin layer of the good stuff where the bearing sits in the hub.

Aeroplane

I endorse this message.

dirtyphotons

yes, grease is good. edit made.

Dersu Burrows

To determine the right size bearings (if there are no indications printed on the bearing) you need 3 things: Outer diameter, inner diameter, and thickness. Then you can get phil quality bearings (or better) from any bearing manufacturer.

carleton

Added to the DIY thread. Thanks.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=259766

dirtyphotons

thank you!

na975

i did this the hard way, i bought a bearing extractor : /

mander

Hey Chums

Do you follow more or less the same procedure with Surly hubs? Anyone know the bearing spec off hand?

dirtyphotons

this guy says you need pw901.

mander

Oh right, this board has a search function.