Reach is too far - get new stem or new
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Reach is too far - get new stem or new
I have a Jamis Satellite Sport 2012 road bike, 56cm size, and the reach is a little too far for me. I notice when I have my hands on the handlebars, the top of the stem is not lined up with the middle of the front wheel which is what I've heard recommended. (The bike size is fine -- I tried a 58 and a 54 before settling on this 56 size.) I've found myself readjusting by moving way forward on the bike seat but it's uncomfortable on long rides -- and I've already tried moving the seat as far forward on the seat bar/rod as possible. So I want to get a shorter reach, and my question is: should I get a shorter stem, or a different seat post? The seatpost I have juts back at the top by say 3cm or so (see the product photo), and I replace it a post that doesn't jut back. Or I could get a shorter stem -- my current stem is 100mm, and I could go for something like 70-80cm.
Do you recommend a shorter stem or a different post? Is there anything to consider in terms of balance, etc., when making this decision -- for example, is it better to sit further back on the bike as opposed to further forward which is what would happen if I changed the post? I use my bike for commuting to/from work (13 miles each way) as well as a few longer day trips, plus I sometimes take my daughter on a ride on the bike seat on the back.
Here are the specs:
Jamis Satellite Sport 2012 Road Bike - 58cm (Soiled) | Evans Cycles
Thank you!
Do you recommend a shorter stem or a different post? Is there anything to consider in terms of balance, etc., when making this decision -- for example, is it better to sit further back on the bike as opposed to further forward which is what would happen if I changed the post? I use my bike for commuting to/from work (13 miles each way) as well as a few longer day trips, plus I sometimes take my daughter on a ride on the bike seat on the back.
Here are the specs:
Jamis Satellite Sport 2012 Road Bike - 58cm (Soiled) | Evans Cycles
Thank you!
#2
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
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I can't get into specifics without seeing you on the bicycle.
BUT
The general sequence for fitting a bicycle is to set the saddle according to the bottom bracket and/or cranks, since this is about power transfer. Then once the saddle position is set, to locate the bars accordingly.
In any case, there' little latitude in seatpost forward/back position options (probably up to under 2" between the various brands, so most likely you've nothing to gain by swapping posts, unless you cannot locate correctly relative to the cranks. So, like most people, you'll be looking at stem height and extension.
BUT
The general sequence for fitting a bicycle is to set the saddle according to the bottom bracket and/or cranks, since this is about power transfer. Then once the saddle position is set, to locate the bars accordingly.
In any case, there' little latitude in seatpost forward/back position options (probably up to under 2" between the various brands, so most likely you've nothing to gain by swapping posts, unless you cannot locate correctly relative to the cranks. So, like most people, you'll be looking at stem height and extension.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Mechanic/Tourist
Do NOT move the seat to get shorter reach. The fore-aft seat position (as with height) is done in relation to your legs, not reach to the bars, and should be determined prior to making cockpit adjustments at the bars/stem. There are lots of opinions on how to determine the best fore-aft position, dependent on riding style and rider dimensions. Google seat fore-aft position. I for one am not in favor of the Knee Over Pedal Axle method except as a very rough starting point (see The Myth of K.O.P.S..
#5
Senior Member
Also note that the "line up the bars with the front axle" is just another rule-of-thumb starting point. There's no more scientific basis for it than there is for KOPS. You can figure out what actually feels right just by moving your hands back on the hoods a bit until you hit a point that feels comfortable. The distance between that and the "correct" position is how much you'd want to shorten the stem (assuming that reach is the only thing you need to change).
#6
Senior Member
Also note that the "line up the bars with the front axle" is just another rule-of-thumb starting point. There's no more scientific basis for it than there is for KOPS. You can figure out what actually feels right just by moving your hands back on the hoods a bit until you hit a point that feels comfortable. The distance between that and the "correct" position is how much you'd want to shorten the stem (assuming that reach is the only thing you need to change).
Lastly, try to keep the stem 90 or above. I know some folks run 60's or even 50's, but handling gets sketchy below 90mm stem length, imho. (Maybe you could handle it but I ain't no pro)
Good luck!
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