'72 Schwinn World Voyageur 650B - Finally!
07-03-11, 01:33 PM
#26
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07-03-11, 02:26 PM
#27
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absolutely.That bike is outstanding. This is your best work ever.
I could help with installing fenders. Maybe you try to install them too close to the tire. I have a lot of patience, and when I install them, they stay put and don't give me any trouble. I can't help with the slowness feeling. It could be real, and it could be imagined. I haven't noticed it. We could do a downhill coasting test (no pedaling).
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07-03-11, 03:21 PM
#28
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I just don't think you're sacrificing the right animal as part of the fender-mounting ritual.
Neal
Neal
07-03-11, 05:38 PM
#30
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Hardly, but it is pretty light.
I eat cheeseburgers that weigh more than those fenders.
I eat cheeseburgers that weigh more than those fenders.
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07-03-11, 06:43 PM
#31
Schwinnasaur
If the fenders are that tight, adding may not a good idea as small things can get caught between them and the tire.
Would long reach dual action cantilever brakes such as Tektro 800 have worked?
Would long reach dual action cantilever brakes such as Tektro 800 have worked?
07-03-11, 11:40 PM
#32
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07-04-11, 06:24 AM
#33
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Dan, does it currently have a 26.8 post? All I've seen use a 26.6.
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07-04-11, 08:34 AM
#34
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Yes; it should be 26.6. The spec sheet calls for p/n 58 820, described as "(7200-02) Chrome plated, 26.6mm O.D. 7" long, complete with all hardware as used on 'World Voyageur' models."
07-04-11, 08:47 AM
#35
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I've got a 26.8 in there now.
I recall it came with a factory-looking shim around the neck of the Seat tube, much like a Le Tour would have. I Tried a seatpost and shim from a Le Tour but it didn't tighten down enough. It doesn't appear to have been grossy stretched out or anything, and the 26.8 seems to be working ok.
I recall it came with a factory-looking shim around the neck of the Seat tube, much like a Le Tour would have. I Tried a seatpost and shim from a Le Tour but it didn't tighten down enough. It doesn't appear to have been grossy stretched out or anything, and the 26.8 seems to be working ok.
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07-04-11, 09:24 AM
#36
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ZB,
I've been too preoccupied with my own Schwinn thread to full digest your thread fully--- until now.
Fantastic and creative work! I like the fat tires, gears, and road bike geometry. It would be perfect for the rough roads, fire/logging roads, and packed gravel rail trails here in northern New England. The drum brakes would also make sense for winter riding because they are not impacted by snow and ice.
I've been too preoccupied with my own Schwinn thread to full digest your thread fully--- until now.
Fantastic and creative work! I like the fat tires, gears, and road bike geometry. It would be perfect for the rough roads, fire/logging roads, and packed gravel rail trails here in northern New England. The drum brakes would also make sense for winter riding because they are not impacted by snow and ice.
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07-04-11, 09:34 AM
#37
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Dan, certainly if a 26.8 fits well, use that. A good 26.8 post is generally easier to find (and cheaper) than a 26.6.
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07-04-11, 09:38 AM
#38
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knowing schwinn it was probably a standard 26.8 from Japan and they put a shim in it in Chicago so they could use up stock of some wacky sized seatposts they had sitting around.....or just as likely so that customers would come back to schwinn to get the harder to find size when they needed a replacement
bob, thank you. I've been follow your new Schwinn as well
bob, thank you. I've been follow your new Schwinn as well
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07-04-11, 10:17 AM
#39
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....or just as likely so that customers would come back to schwinn to get the harder to find size when they needed a replacement
Anyway, my plan is to build a similar bike, as many of you might know. I have a Raleigh International frame. I have a similar Sturmey Archer drum brake front hub and a Shimano drum brake/cassette hub in the rear. It will have 700c rims, fenders, and probably a rack. I guess it's not too late to think about 650B if I can exchange the Sun CR18 rims I have for 650B rims. Then again, nlerner said the Raleigh's BB is too low for this conversion, so I guess not. The rim exchange would cost money, and so would tires.
Light weight is a priority but not the only priority. Drum brakes add weight but there's a benefit. It will be a light bike but not a weight weeny bike.
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07-04-11, 02:55 PM
#41
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I like to think that while the wheelset does weigh more with the drum brakes since that weight is non-rotational and at the very center of the wheel it likely has a minimal effect on performance. I could be smokin rope though.
Aaron, I think you'd dig this ride...although its no comparison in terms of quality or performance, its similar in size to your marnati....which is the undeniable king of orange bikes.
I tell ya what this wheelset really makes me want. It makes me want a weight weenie wheelset with the same tires and a stiff as hell frame with a short wheelbase and racy geometry that can take this wide tire....no doubt a custom request. What I'm saying is I want these wheels to fit my Team Miyata.
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07-04-11, 04:38 PM
#42
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I hope to try the Miyata, too, one day. 
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04-29-24, 07:03 PM
#44
Newbie
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just got back from the first ride. Just a quick 10 or so miles.
It certainly does ride like a dream. I think I've gotta put a little more pressure in em than 50psi though. They definitely stretched a bit over the course of the first ride just as Anton had mentioned in an earlier thread. I've got about 3-5mm clearance at the chainstays, which is close but I've cut it closer on other bikes.
The drum brakes take a bit of time to brake in (<--see what I did there? ) so the rear is grabby right now and the front needs to be adjusted tighter.
The gearing is very nice. I really like the 16-22 (7 speed) straight block. Pairing it with the 52-42 Crankset is a bit ambitious for me though so I'm gonna swap it out for a TA Cyclotouriste 48-28 until I can get my hands on a set of triple chainring bolts and a 38T ring and make it a 48-38-28. I still havent ruled out swapping the 22T big cog for a 26 or 28T. There's big hills around here.
The Deore SP drivetrain is a work of engineering perfection. No lie. I freakin love it and its not just new gear lust. The RD has the same capacity as a Cyclone GT but Its smoother operating and has a cool mechanism built into it that eliminates the need to overshift and then trim the derailleur back on shifts. Its a little spring loaded arm that attaches to the derailleur cable. When you shift you shift until the gear changes and just let go of the shifter and you feel it spring back a tiny bit in your hand as it releases a tiny bit of extra slack it took up, thus trimming your shift for you and eliminating the need to overshift and trim it back. I dunno if that just made any sense so I'd just recommend going and getting a Deore SP derailleur and trying it out. Its super cool.
It certainly does ride like a dream. I think I've gotta put a little more pressure in em than 50psi though. They definitely stretched a bit over the course of the first ride just as Anton had mentioned in an earlier thread. I've got about 3-5mm clearance at the chainstays, which is close but I've cut it closer on other bikes.
The drum brakes take a bit of time to brake in (<--see what I did there?
) so the rear is grabby right now and the front needs to be adjusted tighter.The gearing is very nice. I really like the 16-22 (7 speed) straight block. Pairing it with the 52-42 Crankset is a bit ambitious for me though so I'm gonna swap it out for a TA Cyclotouriste 48-28 until I can get my hands on a set of triple chainring bolts and a 38T ring and make it a 48-38-28. I still havent ruled out swapping the 22T big cog for a 26 or 28T. There's big hills around here.
The Deore SP drivetrain is a work of engineering perfection. No lie. I freakin love it and its not just new gear lust. The RD has the same capacity as a Cyclone GT but Its smoother operating and has a cool mechanism built into it that eliminates the need to overshift and then trim the derailleur back on shifts. Its a little spring loaded arm that attaches to the derailleur cable. When you shift you shift until the gear changes and just let go of the shifter and you feel it spring back a tiny bit in your hand as it releases a tiny bit of extra slack it took up, thus trimming your shift for you and eliminating the need to overshift and trim it back. I dunno if that just made any sense so I'd just recommend going and getting a Deore SP derailleur and trying it out. Its super cool.
05-07-24, 05:47 PM
#46
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Hey @Jayup - he hasn't been on the forum in years. I saw him and this bike in the flesh long ago. Hmm, maybe I'll email him...
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