Fuji Track Elite
#126
Full Member
You can use both sides normally. Most track racers don't use a lock ring. You do have to use a lock ring if you use a carrier style cassette system.
#128
Senior Member
so these Oval rear wheels on these elites have cog threads on both sides. However, one side has fewer threads and if you put a cog on it, there's not room for a lock ring. I have no idea what's going on here. Can anyone explain? Is that for a different type of cog?
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#131
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What do you think...too tight? I have set it up with this clearance with 52:15, which is the largest chain ring/cog size I would use for all configurations. I can gear up to 100 inches by adding a 14t cog and everything in between with smaller chain rings, with plenty of clearance on my chain stay. But despite the aerodynamics of the tight clearance, are there dangers in it being that tight? I might be taken out by a small pebble. ;-)
#132
Senior Member
no real danger other than something jamming between tyre/cutout. My old aluminum P3 did that once and it left a gnarly gnash in the cutout. That was on (a bad) road of course, and I used to run it very tight. I can't imagine it's a problem on the track. Shorter distance for it to go if you ever pull a wheel
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no real danger other than something jamming between tyre/cutout. My old aluminum P3 did that once and it left a gnarly gnash in the cutout. That was on (a bad) road of course, and I used to run it very tight. I can't imagine it's a problem on the track. Shorter distance for it to go if you ever pull a wheel
#134
Senior Member
Unfortunately, the way chains link together I'm not able to back off in a small increment. The next shorter size of chain with 52:15 puts my axle bolts about in the middle of the chain stay, which means if I put a 51:14 or 51:15 on it, its way back toward the end of the chain stay.
#136
Senior Member
#137
Senior Member
BTW, @krispenhartung, cool looking chain- what is it?
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BTW, @krispenhartung, cool looking chain- what is it?
#139
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Has anyone experienced any issues with your saddle not staying tight on the rails and the nose going down? I have experienced this both with my Fuji Track Elite and my Fuji Norcom Straight TT bike, both of which use the same saddle tightening mechanism. I'm not sure what to do. I am tightening it to spec -- 12nm. It's driving me nuts.
#140
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Has anyone experienced any issues with your saddle not staying tight on the rails and the nose going down? I have experienced this both with my Fuji Track Elite and my Fuji Norcom Straight TT bike, both of which use the same saddle tightening mechanism. I'm not sure what to do. I am tightening it to spec -- 12nm. It's driving me nuts.
This is a common problem among clamps that use a one-bolt design. They seem to work based on friction. These work fine when the rider is in the center of the saddle. But, if one rides "on the rivet", it's subject to tilt...even under smaller riders.
This is why 2-bolt systems (like Thomson and many others) are prized. The bolts work in opposition of each other, one keeping the other from giving up.
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Any pics (even product pics from the website) of the seatpost in question?
This is a common problem among clamps that use a one-bolt design. They seem to work based on friction. These work fine when the rider is in the center of the saddle. But, if one rides "on the rivet", it's subject to tilt...even under smaller riders.
This is why 2-bolt systems (like Thomson and many others) are prized. The bolts work in opposition of each other, one keeping the other from giving up.
This is a common problem among clamps that use a one-bolt design. They seem to work based on friction. These work fine when the rider is in the center of the saddle. But, if one rides "on the rivet", it's subject to tilt...even under smaller riders.
This is why 2-bolt systems (like Thomson and many others) are prized. The bolts work in opposition of each other, one keeping the other from giving up.
#142
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Has anyone experienced any issues with your saddle not staying tight on the rails and the nose going down? I have experienced this both with my Fuji Track Elite and my Fuji Norcom Straight TT bike, both of which use the same saddle tightening mechanism. I'm not sure what to do. I am tightening it to spec -- 12nm. It's driving me nuts.
#143
Senior Member
Rail size/clamp size issues is my first guess. Most carbon rails are bigger than metal ones.
Ritchey sells a carbon specific clamp that should fit. (the topper Fuji uses on the Track Elites is a WCS 1-bolt clampset)
Ritchey sells a carbon specific clamp that should fit. (the topper Fuji uses on the Track Elites is a WCS 1-bolt clampset)
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Would you off hand know the specific product and model of Ritchey clamb that it compatible with the Fuji clamp?
It just seems like poor design to me. The contraption that holds the rails and tightens down sits on another piece that has a sort of a quarter size rotator cup. Reminds me of how a bone ball joint rotates in a rotator cup.
So when you tighten down the bolts, all it does is tighten down on the rails (which works fine for keeping the rails from sliding forward and backward), but also tightens down the ball joint, which is entirely inefficient at keeping the whole thing from rotating up and down on the cup, which is totally slick metal with no resistance at all. . Just seems wrong.
#145
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#146
Senior Member
Strange to have seen it slipping with metal rails as well. This is the same topper a lot of TT/tri (P5,etc) bikes switched to last generation and they generally get glowing reviews. I've wrenched a couple of them and never had anyone complain about slipping. Is there any chance the bolt is loosening? Checked the threads/use blue loctite?
I still think the right piece for the carbon rails would help, but I also think you should disassemble everything on the topper and look for anything that seems out of place. The metal rails should have been rock solid.
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That's it. There are a couple of different size carbon rails fyi, I know some of the Fizik's are bigger/smaller than most.
Strange to have seen it slipping with metal rails as well. This is the same topper a lot of TT/tri (P5,etc) bikes switched to last generation and they generally get glowing reviews. I've wrenched a couple of them and never had anyone complain about slipping. Is there any chance the bolt is loosening? Checked the threads/use blue loctite?
I still think the right piece for the carbon rails would help, but I also think you should disassemble everything on the topper and look for anything that seems out of place. The metal rails should have been rock solid.
Strange to have seen it slipping with metal rails as well. This is the same topper a lot of TT/tri (P5,etc) bikes switched to last generation and they generally get glowing reviews. I've wrenched a couple of them and never had anyone complain about slipping. Is there any chance the bolt is loosening? Checked the threads/use blue loctite?
I still think the right piece for the carbon rails would help, but I also think you should disassemble everything on the topper and look for anything that seems out of place. The metal rails should have been rock solid.
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Are carbon rails worth it?
Riding the track, you are more likely to break rails than on the road. I've seen averaged-sized racers both crack the saddle frame or break rails when hitting bumps on tracks.
I'd go for steel or "Kium" (whatever that is that Fizik uses) over titanium or carbon rails, even if I were of average weight.
I think carbon rails are simply for the weight weenie crowd and a way for companies to charge double for the same saddle.
Riding the track, you are more likely to break rails than on the road. I've seen averaged-sized racers both crack the saddle frame or break rails when hitting bumps on tracks.
I'd go for steel or "Kium" (whatever that is that Fizik uses) over titanium or carbon rails, even if I were of average weight.
I think carbon rails are simply for the weight weenie crowd and a way for companies to charge double for the same saddle.
#149
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#150
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