big john

I was going to say "Funny looking BMC".

big john

I'm certain he knows more about bike fitting than you do. He is a very experienced rider. We have no idea of your experience. Why don't you tell us about your riding?
How long have you been road riding? How ,many miles in your biggest year? How many lifetime? Group rider? Tour?

If you post a picture of you in the riding position we might be able to help. We really don't care what kind of bike you have, it means nothing.

If you're a total beginner that's fine, just tell us and skip the snark. You also have to expect to catch a little flack here because of the things you have posted.

nomadmax 

Where is Moisture when you need him?

BillyD

Sometimes you just get tired of being harassed by the same group of people all day long. Although things should be much more peaceful for awhile.

daihard 

For me, one of the most persistent problems I had on my first road bike was that I kept sliding forward in the saddle, much like the OP. My solution turned out to be a shorter stem (well, more like a band-aid solution). The reach was obviously too long for me. (FWIW, my saddle was level, and the saddle position was proper - at least using the coin and string method...)

soyabean

This is exactly why they make short stems.

It is not a band-aid solution.

It is a solution for the cycler that requires it.

grantelmwood

So, you basically lowered your handlebars?
Did that have the effect of pushing you rearwards in the seat?

daihard 

Yes, the shorter stem resulted in a lower handlebar, but more importantly, it shortened the reach, or the distance between the handlebar and the saddle. That helped me stay on the same portion of the saddle with more stability.

downtube42

Unintentional and repetitive sliding forward can be a symptom of a saddle that's too far forward. May seem counter intuitive, but essentially you're falling off the front of the saddle. Rotating your COG further behind your pedals will counter the tendency to fall forward. Moving the saddle back - and slightly lower to keep distance to the crank unchanged - could resolve the sliding-forward issue.

Polaris OBark

I can only tolerate mine when it is flat-out level.

frogman

I also find it best with my B17 level.

cyclezen

OP, Pro Fitting aside, there are a few basic ways to find an adjustment which works for you.
a few ground rules
make ONLY 1 adjustment at a time, and ride for a number of rides (if it's tolerated).
try to get close with your seat adjustments made before doing handlebar adjustments.
A lot depends on the riding posture you chose.
1 adjustment at a time, ride for a while...
simplest - start with the saddle level (put it there if it isn;t) - this also is dependent ont the saddle design. I have 2 of same bike/size. One wiht a Spec toupe saddle the other with Spec Phenom. THe toupe is flat (for most considerations. The Phenom has a slightly rounded/sloped side to side profile.
I position the Toupe very close to perfectly 'flat' (nno tilt). I position the Phenom ever so slightly ever so small adjustment with the saddle nose slightly down - Why? Because the Phenom has that Side to Side slope, where my sitzbones sit - so sitzbones are slightly lower at the saddle seating area sides - which, in effect allows a 'level' seating.
There have been a ton of threads on seat and handlebar setting. Won;t repeating all/, so I won't repeat.
Best luck getting it solved
Ride On
Yuri

beng1

This is your lucky day because there is a simple solution to your problem. If you are sliding forward on your seat, then slide the seat forward to where your butt is sliding to, simple. If your seat-post does not have enough range to suit you, then simply rotate it 180 degrees to get a new range of adjustment that is further forward. I have done this to quite a few bikes and it has solved all of my problems. Good luck

smd4

Of course, you’ve stated before that you put your saddle in that position because you think it changes your frame angles and makes you go faster.

But it looks ridiculous.

Polaris OBark

It would be more impressive if that seatpost/saddle combination was inserted into the frame as is, but rotated 180° such that the post was oriented in the proper way, and the saddle was oriented backward.

Carbonfiberboy 

Often, sliding forward on the saddle means that your weight is distributed too much forward, i.e. too much weight on your hands. Move the saddle back until your hands are light on the bars. Oddly, that may also mean increasing your reach. The more reach, the lighter the hands become, just ordinary statics. Of course moving the saddle back increases reach anyway.

philbob57

If your hands hurt, you core may need strengthening, or you may need to use core strength more than you're doing now. I, too, ride more forward than I'm supposed to, so I've looked into this a bit. Some people agree with Cfb that the way to move your butt back is to move your saddle back, not to move it forward - counter-intuitive though that may be.

Mu guess is that it could also just be your style. There are a lot of 'rules' for fit. I think every single rule has been and is being violated by some successful rider. None of the bike-fitting or style rules work for 100% of riders.

calstar 

The thing about bike fitting, go to 10 different fitters and you'll get 10 different fits.....

3alarmer 

...back in the old days, when I used to hang with the Wright brothers, we all did the same thing. .

smd4

Yeah, I know. Still looks ridiculous. But riding with no bar tape may be worse.

3alarmer 

.
...I think I have a definitive answer. If grantelmwood is a sock puppet, it makes perfect sense that he would have trouble sitting on a bike saddle.
All the sock puppets I've helped for a proper bike fit do much better on the bare seatpost. They still have trouble reaching the bar, but that's a different issue.

3alarmer 

...this is exactly why our group eventually moved on to airplanes.

jkinner

Great advice available here: https://www.bikeseatguru.com/