For the love of English 3 speeds...
03-22-13, 05:57 AM
#4201
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What brand/make bag is that on the Superbe? I like the retro "black doctor's bag" element. I'm in the process of getting a second bag for a project.
Well my new 3 speed isn't English (though the IGH is and even labeled as made in England still) it's a 1987 Peugeot P20 folder. It's project bike for sure, but here's what I'm starting with.
To make up for tarnishing this thread with the Italian made, French labeled, just barely vintage bike I'll add a few more recent images of my main ride. My 71 Superbe.
If I ever posted photos of it before, the old ones don't include the Dyno hub and lights/pump/though not original tool bag, or B-17. Got a new chainwheel (this one was fixed with a rather large weld) and a Miller 2 bulb headlight waiting for installation currently. At that point I'll re-run the dyno wires.
To make up for tarnishing this thread with the Italian made, French labeled, just barely vintage bike I'll add a few more recent images of my main ride. My 71 Superbe.
If I ever posted photos of it before, the old ones don't include the Dyno hub and lights/pump/though not original tool bag, or B-17. Got a new chainwheel (this one was fixed with a rather large weld) and a Miller 2 bulb headlight waiting for installation currently. At that point I'll re-run the dyno wires.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Last edited by SirMike1983; 03-22-13 at 05:58 AM. Reason: Poor spelling
03-22-13, 08:36 AM
#4202
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
Well my new 3 speed isn't English (though the IGH is and even labeled as made in England still) it's a 1987 Peugeot P20 folder. It's project bike for sure, but here's what I'm starting with.
To make up for tarnishing this thread with the Italian made, French labeled, just barely vintage bike I'll add a few more recent images of my main ride. My 71 Superbe.
If I ever posted photos of it before, the old ones don't include the Dyno hub and lights/pump/though not original tool bag, or B-17. Got a new chainwheel (this one was fixed with a rather large weld) and a Miller 2 bulb headlight waiting for installation currently. At that point I'll re-run the dyno wires.
To make up for tarnishing this thread with the Italian made, French labeled, just barely vintage bike I'll add a few more recent images of my main ride. My 71 Superbe.
If I ever posted photos of it before, the old ones don't include the Dyno hub and lights/pump/though not original tool bag, or B-17. Got a new chainwheel (this one was fixed with a rather large weld) and a Miller 2 bulb headlight waiting for installation currently. At that point I'll re-run the dyno wires.
03-23-13, 04:16 PM
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Conradpdx, the rear rack attachment on your Raleigh looks home made, would you care to show more details? I am having a hard time with mine, it always seems to loosen itself after a few bumps! Thanks.
Last edited by Hieronymous; 03-23-13 at 04:20 PM.
03-23-13, 05:08 PM
#4204
Junior Member
I just received a set of Kool Stop pads for my 1980 Raleigh Tourist and realized that I had not looked closely enough at the pad holder frames before ordering. I thought for some reason that the frames were open on the end opposite the wheel rotation and that I could simply hammer out the old pads and press fit in the new ones. Of course as it turns out the pad holders completely enclose the existing pads and my plan requires some modification. Can I reasonably expect these holders to do my bidding if I put them in a vise and pry down / open the end tab on the feed in end and then proceed to hammer out the old and hammer in the new pads? I've found a few youtube vids on the pitfalls of adjusting rod brakes but nothing that addresses the issue of installing the pads themselves on the closed version of the pads so I come to the font of all wisdom on English three speeds.
While I have the bike at my mercy I thought to adjust the chain tension as well. What makes for a good measure of proper chain tension on this machine?
Thanks for any suggestions
While I have the bike at my mercy I thought to adjust the chain tension as well. What makes for a good measure of proper chain tension on this machine?
Thanks for any suggestions
03-23-13, 08:20 PM
#4205
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Was not looking for it, but a Ladies LTD came our way Thursday.Was able to ride it around the before setting the fenders on it for the obligatory picture.
Put new tires on, repacked bearings, and polished the chrome a very small amount, but other than that, this is as found. Yes, I know it still needs work. We're supposed to get snow over the next couple days, so by the time it warms up again, it should be pretty much all set.
P3230123 by 50N40W, on Flickr
What's pretty cool is that it's a 23" frame - I've seen some in small and medium sizes, but this fits our household much better.
Put new tires on, repacked bearings, and polished the chrome a very small amount, but other than that, this is as found. Yes, I know it still needs work. We're supposed to get snow over the next couple days, so by the time it warms up again, it should be pretty much all set.
P3230123 by 50N40W, on Flickr
What's pretty cool is that it's a 23" frame - I've seen some in small and medium sizes, but this fits our household much better.
03-24-13, 06:04 AM
#4206
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Was not looking for it, but a Ladies LTD came our way Thursday.Was able to ride it around the before setting the fenders on it for the obligatory picture.
Put new tires on, repacked bearings, and polished the chrome a very small amount, but other than that, this is as found. Yes, I know it still needs work. We're supposed to get snow over the next couple days, so by the time it warms up again, it should be pretty much all set.
P3230123 by 50N40W, on Flickr
What's pretty cool is that it's a 23" frame - I've seen some in small and medium sizes, but this fits our household much better.
Put new tires on, repacked bearings, and polished the chrome a very small amount, but other than that, this is as found. Yes, I know it still needs work. We're supposed to get snow over the next couple days, so by the time it warms up again, it should be pretty much all set.
P3230123 by 50N40W, on Flickr
What's pretty cool is that it's a 23" frame - I've seen some in small and medium sizes, but this fits our household much better.
Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
03-24-13, 01:55 PM
#4207
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I'll be adding a few more photos in a day or two. For now I only have this one photo. This was my dad's bike and now mine. It's (I believe) a late 50's Hercules 3 speed.
03-24-13, 09:39 PM
#4208
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Hieronymous -the rear mount on my bike is stock as far as I can tell (or at least it's the same as the step though Sports Delux that I bought for the lights/dynos) from the same year, you're probably thinking that it's not because I have a frame lock mounted on the back of the seat stays.
As for your rack coming loose, perhaps try adding a lock washer to the nut side of the assembly....That should fix that nicely.
Sir Mike - the bag is a vintage/ perhaps antique German bike bag which my wife bought me for a birthday. I like it a lot, it's just big enough for a tube patch kit, screw driver, small adjustable wrench and a Kryponite bike cable which I use with the above mentioned lock for securing my bike and seat. Though it gets tight with all that in it, I've personally always thought the stock Raleigh bags look a little clumsy. Plus I don't currently have one (the last of the items I need to get this bike stock))- still trying to decide on if I should go back to a B-72 I've got, I do like the honey 17 a lot.)
and 65'r- just pm me when you get to town, a little meet up at HUB, the Cult, or elsewhere wouldn't be out of the question. I'm always looking for a good excuse for a ride, a brew, and good conversation. I'm in SE so really anywhere is possible (though I'd prefer not up in the West hills)...
As for your rack coming loose, perhaps try adding a lock washer to the nut side of the assembly....That should fix that nicely.
Sir Mike - the bag is a vintage/ perhaps antique German bike bag which my wife bought me for a birthday. I like it a lot, it's just big enough for a tube patch kit, screw driver, small adjustable wrench and a Kryponite bike cable which I use with the above mentioned lock for securing my bike and seat. Though it gets tight with all that in it, I've personally always thought the stock Raleigh bags look a little clumsy. Plus I don't currently have one (the last of the items I need to get this bike stock))- still trying to decide on if I should go back to a B-72 I've got, I do like the honey 17 a lot.)
and 65'r- just pm me when you get to town, a little meet up at HUB, the Cult, or elsewhere wouldn't be out of the question. I'm always looking for a good excuse for a ride, a brew, and good conversation. I'm in SE so really anywhere is possible (though I'd prefer not up in the West hills)...
Last edited by conradpdx; 03-24-13 at 09:45 PM.
03-25-13, 08:04 PM
#4209
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I've been repairing a 1958 Phillips (pre-Raleigh) for a friend of mine. The rims were scarred and bent so I replaced them with Sun CR-18s. The rear hub is an SW. We'll see how long that lasts... anyway, has anyone noticed the obscene prices for pedals on eBay?? I needed a right side- the one on the bike had a bent spindle. Before laying down $80.00 for a pair of ebay specials, I decided to try a local bike shop that is one of those used/donation/charity places. We are blessed that we have a good number of these shops in the Twin Cities. I found the pedal I needed for $2.50...
So the Phillips lives again; I found some NOS John Bull brake pads and applied a lot of Kroil to the cables. The only thing that is bugging me is the oiler for the crank. Its missing and in its stead is a woodscrew... I'd be fine if I could find a machine screw with the right thread- any thoughts??
So the Phillips lives again; I found some NOS John Bull brake pads and applied a lot of Kroil to the cables. The only thing that is bugging me is the oiler for the crank. Its missing and in its stead is a woodscrew... I'd be fine if I could find a machine screw with the right thread- any thoughts??
03-25-13, 08:43 PM
#4210
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I've been repairing a 1958 Phillips (pre-Raleigh) for a friend of mine. The rims were scarred and bent so I replaced them with Sun CR-18s. The rear hub is an SW. We'll see how long that lasts... anyway, has anyone noticed the obscene prices for pedals on eBay?? I needed a right side- the one on the bike had a bent spindle. Before laying down $80.00 for a pair of ebay specials, I decided to try a local bike shop that is one of those used/donation/charity places. We are blessed that we have a good number of these shops in the Twin Cities. I found the pedal I needed for $2.50...
So the Phillips lives again; I found some NOS John Bull brake pads and applied a lot of Kroil to the cables. The only thing that is bugging me is the oiler for the crank. Its missing and in its stead is a woodscrew... I'd be fine if I could find a machine screw with the right thread- any thoughts??
So the Phillips lives again; I found some NOS John Bull brake pads and applied a lot of Kroil to the cables. The only thing that is bugging me is the oiler for the crank. Its missing and in its stead is a woodscrew... I'd be fine if I could find a machine screw with the right thread- any thoughts??
I'm willing to bet the original threads on the oiler were damaged when the wood screw was used as a replacement. Though I'm the first to admit that I could be wrong as well. But there is a good chance of it.
If it is, it's probably not worth it to find - or have manufactured a tap for it.
03-25-13, 09:01 PM
#4211
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
and 65'r- just pm me when you get to town, a little meet up at HUB, the Cult, or elsewhere wouldn't be out of the question. I'm always looking for a good excuse for a ride, a brew, and good conversation. I'm in SE so really anywhere is possible (though I'd prefer not up in the West hills)...
03-26-13, 03:36 AM
#4212
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I just received a set of Kool Stop pads for my 1980 Raleigh Tourist and realized that I had not looked closely enough at the pad holder frames before ordering. I thought for some reason that the frames were open on the end opposite the wheel rotation and that I could simply hammer out the old pads and press fit in the new ones. Of course as it turns out the pad holders completely enclose the existing pads and my plan requires some modification. Can I reasonably expect these holders to do my bidding if I put them in a vise and pry down / open the end tab on the feed in end and then proceed to hammer out the old and hammer in the new pads? I've found a few youtube vids on the pitfalls of adjusting rod brakes but nothing that addresses the issue of installing the pads themselves on the closed version of the pads so I come to the font of all wisdom on English three speeds.
While I have the bike at my mercy I thought to adjust the chain tension as well. What makes for a good measure of proper chain tension on this machine?
Thanks for any suggestions
While I have the bike at my mercy I thought to adjust the chain tension as well. What makes for a good measure of proper chain tension on this machine?
Thanks for any suggestions
Chain should deflect some...not much, actually adjusting the chain on a Roadster is pretty easy, you have the adjusters at the rear.
Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Last edited by wahoonc; 03-26-13 at 03:41 AM.
03-26-13, 09:10 AM
#4213
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Not trying to be the bringer of bad news but...
I'm willing to bet the original threads on the oiler were damaged when the wood screw was used as a replacement. Though I'm the first to admit that I could be wrong as well. But there is a good chance of it.
If it is, it's probably not worth it to find - or have manufactured a tap for it.
I'm willing to bet the original threads on the oiler were damaged when the wood screw was used as a replacement. Though I'm the first to admit that I could be wrong as well. But there is a good chance of it.
If it is, it's probably not worth it to find - or have manufactured a tap for it.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#oil-caps/=m1p2rv
03-26-13, 01:30 PM
#4215
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picking this old gal up tonight, hopefully she is complete the pictures are pretty bad, the seller wanted to throw in all 3 bikes for more, i only want the raleigh..
03-26-13, 02:37 PM
#4216
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I will look forward to seeing clearer pics soon.
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03-26-13, 03:28 PM
#4217
Junior Member
These are what I bought from bike parts central https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=3276 . I'll know tomorrow how good a fit they turn out to be. Glad that you've successfully done the pry and pound technique on the brake holders. The one video I found on youtube showed the open end version of the frames so I was a bit anxious about damaging the metal brake pad frames beyond use by folding open the ends. It'll be a few weeks before I get back to the bike to see if the kool stops make the rod brakes act a bit more brakes rather than slo mo bike decelerators. Thanks for news.
They make full replacement Kool Stop pads that fit the Roadster Brakes? I have also done the pry the end loose and install new pads before, but never on a roller brake bike.
Chain should deflect some...not much, actually adjusting the chain on a Roadster is pretty easy, you have the adjusters at the rear.
Aaron
Chain should deflect some...not much, actually adjusting the chain on a Roadster is pretty easy, you have the adjusters at the rear.
Aaron
03-26-13, 04:10 PM
#4219
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I picked up the Raleigh... 40 bucks... everything is there... pics to come
pics as promised
https://imgur.com/a/XhdyQ
pics as promised
https://imgur.com/a/XhdyQ
Last edited by GordoTrek; 03-26-13 at 05:33 PM.
03-26-13, 05:52 PM
#4220
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The 1965 Dawn rod and drum is back on the road. I am still awaiting warmer weather to paint and install the chain case.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
03-26-13, 05:58 PM
#4221
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03-26-13, 07:06 PM
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03-27-13, 04:25 AM
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These are what I bought from bike parts central https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=3276 . I'll know tomorrow how good a fit they turn out to be. Glad that you've successfully done the pry and pound technique on the brake holders. The one video I found on youtube showed the open end version of the frames so I was a bit anxious about damaging the metal brake pad frames beyond use by folding open the ends. It'll be a few weeks before I get back to the bike to see if the kool stops make the rod brakes act a bit more brakes rather than slo mo bike decelerators. Thanks for news.
Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon