For the love of English 3 speeds...
#7176
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Location: hopewell lct NY
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Bikes: 1969 schwinn sting ray 3 speed stick ...1974 raleigh sports
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the ( coffee ? ) paint is strong but slight chips . most of which was going for the dumpster ride .the tires are original and the gum wall is gone but the tread is new . you can see the underside of the fender is like new
#7177
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Winnipeg, MB
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Bikes: 2008 Electra Huli Huli, 1973 Eatons Glider, 1979 Sekine mixte, 197? Supercycle rustbucket
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Argh, my chain guard came loose and my pedal jammed under it and now it's all bent. Is there a more elegant way to get it into place than bending it and hitting it with stuff, or is that the Raleigh way? I think I got it so it's not rubbing on anything now, but it's still super close to the pedal and I'm nervous. How close is it supposed to be?
Eta: Now I took it off and can't even get it back on. Poked at some old forum posts and I think the solution is just more bending and futzing, but I need coffee before I do anything else.
Last edited by forestine; 04-24-15 at 11:40 AM.
#7178
Abuse Magnet
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colorado
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Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll, '86 Miyata 310, '76 Raleigh Shopper
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Do you know for sure that it's the original chainguard?
#7179
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I'm STILL having problems with the chain guard and am getting super frustrated. The only way it doesn't seem to rub on the chain is if I have it up so high it's way above it. The marks on the bike show that it was way lower (so low it would have been right up against the crank), so I don't know what's with that either. It doesn't seem THAT bent, so I don't know what the deal is.
Eta: Now I took it off and can't even get it back on. Poked at some old forum posts and I think the solution is just more bending and futzing, but I need coffee before I do anything else.
Eta: Now I took it off and can't even get it back on. Poked at some old forum posts and I think the solution is just more bending and futzing, but I need coffee before I do anything else.
#7180
Old fart
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I'm STILL having problems with the chain guard and am getting super frustrated. The only way it doesn't seem to rub on the chain is if I have it up so high it's way above it. The marks on the bike show that it was way lower (so low it would have been right up against the crank), so I don't know what's with that either. It doesn't seem THAT bent, so I don't know what the deal is.
#7181
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Winnipeg, MB
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Bikes: 2008 Electra Huli Huli, 1973 Eatons Glider, 1979 Sekine mixte, 197? Supercycle rustbucket
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I missed your earlier posts, but did you also service your cranks before adjusting the chain guard? There is sufficient space on the flat surface of the spindle to allow the crank to be properly seated, but further outboard the bottom bracket than normal, thus causing the chainguard to rub. This happened to me once.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. It's so frustrating to be foiled by such a little piece of metal. I just want it to work!
What exactly do you mean by "service your cranks"? @nelsonmilum ordered a cotter press so we could learn to do our bottom brackets, will that address it when we put them back on? I thought one of the cranks might be bent so I compared them, and they seem to be sitting at about the same angle.
Chainring looks to be the same one I've seen on other Gliders, the chain guard is painted to match the bike with the Glider logo, so I think it must be the original one. Also, i've been riding the bike most days for just about a month and I didn't notice rubbing until after I bashed it with the pedal and found out it had been loose, and now I can't seem to get it aligned properly. Maybe it's just bent too much? Maybe I'll post a photo later.
I did (okay, Nelson did, I was too frustrated) manage to get the chainguard back on and almost perfect, but it's still rubbing about once per rotation. I'll see if I can get it aligned today.
Last edited by forestine; 04-25-15 at 08:39 AM.
#7183
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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#7185
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Location: SoCal
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Bikes: 1976 Raleigh Sports Trek 8.4 DS
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#7187
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
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Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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I paid $35.00 for it and spent another $100.00 to fix up. The non original wide bars are good for curb hopping (more leverage).
Last edited by gster; 04-25-15 at 06:12 PM.
#7188
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Chain guard problem solved! Sometimes you need a patient person to take over when all feels lost. Nelson gave it another try, bent the piece of the guard at the back that attaches to the bracket a good bend outwards so the guard could be more upright (it was kind of tilting back) and it is finally not rubbing! What a pain. Here's a photo I took on the nice bike ride I went on this afternoon for your troubles.
Untitled by Lindsay.Joy, on Flickr
Untitled by Lindsay.Joy, on Flickr
#7189
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
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A great deal actually, the tall frame is a great bike. The Schwinn frame angles are a little different, and some people actually like them better than the Raleigh in terms of fit.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#7190
Verified Antique
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Yes, $75 for a tall frame men's Racer is a no-brainer; especially in black.
#7191
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Central Ohio
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Bikes: Waterford R33, 2019 Infinito, Gunnar Roadie, 1999 Colnago Tecnos, '04 Cannondale Optimo 800 & '51 Rudge Sports, Colnago Tecnos, Tom Kellogg Merlin..
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I admit! Shameless picture posting...
After two years, mostly procrastinating, Morley is ready for the road! As you can see original owner etched his name quite deeply in the one pic, plus a couple other locations.
Mostly original. Obviously new tubes & tires, originals had to be cut off from the wheels. New re-pop grips in the original style, thank you Taiwan Trading Co. One new cotter key for the crank, machined down to fit correctly. New brake pads, safety first! A re-died original Brooks saddle, not sure if the color is correct from new. Few miscellaneous nuts & bolts. Frame pump seems to work. I do need to locate the insert in the nipple end of the hose that allows the air into the tube.
Most work was done by yours truly. With hub, BB, headset cleaning & re-packing left to my LBS good guy Mason of Westerville Bike Shop. Shameless local business plug intended. And I just don't have the correct spanners to do this work yet.
Paint was brought back to life with Meguiers's Pro Line auto paint products. Chrome was basic elbow grease, chrome polish, SS pads and brass brushes. All else was scrubbed clean of 30+ years of oily dust. There has been no paint touch up or anything else. Rust and corrosion will be held in check.
Bike has been ridden several times. I have no reference for what she should ride like, but she is a hoot to be on. Needs some fine tuning for the 3 speed shifting. Rear brake cable is stretched beyond use, but I have a hack in place with a fix ready.
Much to my surprise the dynometer lights work! Bulbs look to be original. I did find a replacement lens for the rear light at Memory Lane in Grand Rapids, Ohio. Original lens was bleached a pale pinkish-yellow.
If there is any advice on placement of clamps etc., I welcome the feedback.
Cheers,
After two years, mostly procrastinating, Morley is ready for the road! As you can see original owner etched his name quite deeply in the one pic, plus a couple other locations.
Mostly original. Obviously new tubes & tires, originals had to be cut off from the wheels. New re-pop grips in the original style, thank you Taiwan Trading Co. One new cotter key for the crank, machined down to fit correctly. New brake pads, safety first! A re-died original Brooks saddle, not sure if the color is correct from new. Few miscellaneous nuts & bolts. Frame pump seems to work. I do need to locate the insert in the nipple end of the hose that allows the air into the tube.
Most work was done by yours truly. With hub, BB, headset cleaning & re-packing left to my LBS good guy Mason of Westerville Bike Shop. Shameless local business plug intended. And I just don't have the correct spanners to do this work yet.
Paint was brought back to life with Meguiers's Pro Line auto paint products. Chrome was basic elbow grease, chrome polish, SS pads and brass brushes. All else was scrubbed clean of 30+ years of oily dust. There has been no paint touch up or anything else. Rust and corrosion will be held in check.
Bike has been ridden several times. I have no reference for what she should ride like, but she is a hoot to be on. Needs some fine tuning for the 3 speed shifting. Rear brake cable is stretched beyond use, but I have a hack in place with a fix ready.
Much to my surprise the dynometer lights work! Bulbs look to be original. I did find a replacement lens for the rear light at Memory Lane in Grand Rapids, Ohio. Original lens was bleached a pale pinkish-yellow.
If there is any advice on placement of clamps etc., I welcome the feedback.
Cheers,
Last edited by look566 rider; 04-27-15 at 07:27 PM.
#7192
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
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What's the difference in frame angles between the English and the Schwinns?
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#7193
Senior Member
As I've mentioned before, I had a three-speed Scwhinn back in about 68 that I bought for $10 from the guy who lived across the street from us. As he was maybe seven years, or so, older than me, it was probably a mid to late 50s bike. My recollection is that it was heavier than the Raleighs. We always thought of the Raleighs as "light English racers." I'm thinking that we called them racers because they were similar, in many ways, to the Schwinn Racer. Those Schwinns were tough bikes. In my experience, it took a sledge hammer to stop one -- literally and not wielded by me.
#7194
Planet Earth
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lakewood, CO
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Bikes: 1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports, 1970 Raleigh Super Course, 1994 Serrota Colorado Ti
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Purchased this 1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports earlier this month, and am slowly working on it and cleaning it up. All the mechanicals are in amazing (just highly varnished) shape, and am getting it ready to be a backup commuter. I really cannot wait to start riding it.
.
.
Last edited by PlymouthJLA; 04-26-15 at 04:58 PM.
#7195
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I did about 35 miles on my Lenton Sports today. It's an FW hub I've modified to 5-speeds, and it's a bit temperamental. Still, it's a great riding bike.
#7196
Senior Member
#7197
Senior Member
72 Superbe Sports SuperBe finished for now.
Bought this bike not too long ago and have been slowly working on it getting it road worthy. We call it the Superbe Sports because the cragslist ad we responded to was for a Raleigh "Sport." The SuperBe is just too funny.
So, here is what it looked like when it followed me home:
The frame paint and decals were in pretty good shape but the chrome was pretty rusty and the sheet metal was really pretty bad. The frame cleaned up well, as expected, but the fenders and rack, and less so the chain guard, were mostly rust colored with the paint not salvageable. About the only way to get the bike not looking like it just crawled out of a dumpster was to replace the fenders. So, we decided to try the VO aluminum alloy fenders designed for 650B, about the same size as 650A. Cleaned up the chrome and mostly it came out ok. Used any of the chrome bits from the 56 Sports that were in better shape and useable -- crank, bars, but not the brakes. As is typical, I guess, for a neglected Raleigh from the 70s, the steel rims are pretty badly rusted and pitted so there are some CR18s on it now. The Dynohub is awaiting spokes and a rim but may not go back on the bike as it will probably be ridden at night only rarely, if at all. Front wheel is 36 spoke instead of the proper 32, but I'm hoping that the nostalgia police can't count that high.
Took it out this morning for about 5 to 10 miles and everything is working great. It has been declared a "roller."
So, here is what it looked like when it followed me home:
The frame paint and decals were in pretty good shape but the chrome was pretty rusty and the sheet metal was really pretty bad. The frame cleaned up well, as expected, but the fenders and rack, and less so the chain guard, were mostly rust colored with the paint not salvageable. About the only way to get the bike not looking like it just crawled out of a dumpster was to replace the fenders. So, we decided to try the VO aluminum alloy fenders designed for 650B, about the same size as 650A. Cleaned up the chrome and mostly it came out ok. Used any of the chrome bits from the 56 Sports that were in better shape and useable -- crank, bars, but not the brakes. As is typical, I guess, for a neglected Raleigh from the 70s, the steel rims are pretty badly rusted and pitted so there are some CR18s on it now. The Dynohub is awaiting spokes and a rim but may not go back on the bike as it will probably be ridden at night only rarely, if at all. Front wheel is 36 spoke instead of the proper 32, but I'm hoping that the nostalgia police can't count that high.
Took it out this morning for about 5 to 10 miles and everything is working great. It has been declared a "roller."
#7198
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#7199
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Decatur, Alabama USA
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Bikes: '07 Specialized Roubaix Comp, '88 Trek 400T, '88 Diamondback Ascent EX, '56 Raleigh Superbe, '73/60 Raleigh Sports
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@desconhecido - Really nice job returning that bike to the road.
Last edited by El Segundo; 04-28-15 at 03:21 PM. Reason: v
#7200
Senior Member
Here's a Sprite frame that had been kicking around the local co-op for a long while. I had a rebuild AW hub in a 700 rim (they look like cr-18) and I found the rest of the classic parts at the co-op too, even the R nuts for the cotters and seatpost binder bolt. The front hub is a Normandy so it's not all English but I think it might even be a Canadian-made frame. The bars are new zoom aluminum ones with VO city levers and some cork/rubber grips that I find quite comfy. The brakes are Alhonga dual pivots so the bike actually stops. The rear brake was modified with another barrel adjuster to allow bottom cable entry so it looks kind of unorthodox but it works better than having an S curve in the housing. It's a pretty "sprightly" ride with all the aluminum parts on there.
Last edited by clasher; 05-01-15 at 08:04 AM.