Does everyone here use a torque wrench?
#1
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Does everyone here use a torque wrench?
So after getting my bike yesterday, I realized I "needed" a torque wrench based on the internet since my bike is carbon, so I called the LBS and they had a few choices. I figured I needed at least a 4mm and 5mm to cover my stem, handlebars, seatpost, brakes, etc... It was either get a fixed Nm and fixed mm size, or go with a fixed Nm but use bits so I can use 4mm, 5mm etc in the same 5Nm, etc handles. I went with the latter as I had bits at home.
I knew everyone says if you have carbon you NEED one, but then I realized my stem and handlebars are alloy, so while I still plan on using it because the stem and handlebars still state torque spec, do others here always use torque wrenches, even on non-carbon parts? Which aspects are most important to not just tighten by hand, as in, do you guys always bring your torque wrenches with you on the road in case something loosens?
I knew everyone says if you have carbon you NEED one, but then I realized my stem and handlebars are alloy, so while I still plan on using it because the stem and handlebars still state torque spec, do others here always use torque wrenches, even on non-carbon parts? Which aspects are most important to not just tighten by hand, as in, do you guys always bring your torque wrenches with you on the road in case something loosens?
#2
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If there's a torque spec, i use a torque wrench.
Just today I replace the seatpost on my CX bike with a carbon post. The seatpost clamp was marked 5mn and the saddle clamp was marked 12nm.
Just today I replace the seatpost on my CX bike with a carbon post. The seatpost clamp was marked 5mn and the saddle clamp was marked 12nm.
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My seatpost clamp doesn't show a torque spec, but wouldn't that be something that should since it's on the carbon frame? Or is there an implied amount of torque inherently for seatpost clamps (like yours, 5Nm)
#4
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AL is getting lighter and lighter. IMO modern AL frames and parts should be treated the same as carbon regarding torque. When in doubt for parts like handlebar, stem, seatpost, 5nm.
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#6
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Depending on the component, nut/bolt/screw, or fastener...on my metal frames I don't always use the torque wrench. On my carbon fiber bike I do! And FWIW...when I first got the carbon bike I was searching around for info about torque tension for various attachments. I think with a bit of searching you would find torque recommendations from most companies/bikes.
Dan
Dan
#7
I don't, so the answer to your question is no.
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No
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#9
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What amazes me as much as people not using torque wrenches on carbon parts is using cheap made in china ones with who knows what accuracy.
Get a quality calibrated torque wrench like Snap-On or CDI, store it correctly and pay the small fee to have it calibrated every few years. $100 for a good torque wrench is a drop in the bucket compared to what we pay for bikes and other related gear, and it'll last you a lifetime. The one I use is 20-150 inlb / 2.8-15.3 Nm.
Get a quality calibrated torque wrench like Snap-On or CDI, store it correctly and pay the small fee to have it calibrated every few years. $100 for a good torque wrench is a drop in the bucket compared to what we pay for bikes and other related gear, and it'll last you a lifetime. The one I use is 20-150 inlb / 2.8-15.3 Nm.
#10
I don't think carbon / metal has anything to do with it. In my pre-torque wrench days, I never broke a carbon part, but I broke plenty of aluminum.
I've broken more seatpost clamp bolts than anything else. Second place goes to stem / handlebar clamp bolts -- and at least one clamp/faceplate itself. I've broken water bottle holder screws and shattered one of the rivnuts that holds the water bottle holder screw in place. (Wow. I never realized how destructive I was!)
I use an adjustable value torque wrench with bit set. Everything that CAN be torqued to value IS torqued to value. (The Park Tools Blue Book has a list of most torque values in an appendix.)
I've broken more seatpost clamp bolts than anything else. Second place goes to stem / handlebar clamp bolts -- and at least one clamp/faceplate itself. I've broken water bottle holder screws and shattered one of the rivnuts that holds the water bottle holder screw in place. (Wow. I never realized how destructive I was!)
I use an adjustable value torque wrench with bit set. Everything that CAN be torqued to value IS torqued to value. (The Park Tools Blue Book has a list of most torque values in an appendix.)
#11
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I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/2-10NM-Bicycl...+torque+wrench
It's kind of a pain to read the dial sometimes.
https://www.amazon.com/2-10NM-Bicycl...+torque+wrench
It's kind of a pain to read the dial sometimes.
#13
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I have this set:
Nashbar Torque Wrench
Not sure I "needed" it, but I wanted it and it was around $65. They've gone up a lot.
S
Nashbar Torque Wrench
Not sure I "needed" it, but I wanted it and it was around $65. They've gone up a lot.
S
#15
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What is a 'bike torque wrench'? I have three torque wrenches (two SK: 3/8" and 1/2" drive, and one older Craftsman that I don't use any more) that can achieve that value but none are bike-specific.
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I recently bought a used Carbon Roubaix so I picked up a in-lb torque wrench to prevent overtightening things. From my experience so far, I didn't need it. The torque values specified on seatpost, seat, stem, are way higher than I would tighten if doing by hand.
There are some people that think you have to tighten things as tight as the tool and your strength will allow. If you are one of those, you need a torque wrench. I'll probably keep using it and set it at maybe half the max allowable.
There are some people that think you have to tighten things as tight as the tool and your strength will allow. If you are one of those, you need a torque wrench. I'll probably keep using it and set it at maybe half the max allowable.
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Yea, but how large are they? Do you carry them with you on rides in case stuff loosens?
#21
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Torque spec ratings are maximums for the bolts, not for the CF parts you may or may not be clamping to.
Your stem doesn't know what material your handlebar will be, your seatpost doesn't know if your saddle's rails will be CF, Ti or Alloy, etc..
That said, a torque wrench is good to avoid stripping the bolts, but in some instances the specced rating maybe too high for a given material/component that you're clamping.
And then you can open up the discussion as to whether the torque ratings are assuming the bolts are dry, or wet (ie. lubed)...
Your stem doesn't know what material your handlebar will be, your seatpost doesn't know if your saddle's rails will be CF, Ti or Alloy, etc..
That said, a torque wrench is good to avoid stripping the bolts, but in some instances the specced rating maybe too high for a given material/component that you're clamping.
And then you can open up the discussion as to whether the torque ratings are assuming the bolts are dry, or wet (ie. lubed)...
#23
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For small bike fasteners, I trust my hands for that. I use a torque wrench for bottom brackets/cranks simply because the specified range is more than I'd typically tighten something that size and so I need the guidance.
#24
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This logic definitely makes sense. Does the piece of equipment shift/move? It's too loose. Tighten until it doesn't and nothing more.
Mostly I got it because in the event I did break something without it, I'd regret not having one. Even though the likelihood of that is slim.
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Just got this one for my 2 carbon bikes. Even better is when they are 20% off. Spin Doctor Torque Wrench Set