stoneageyosh

If the drop adapter had a lip along the top edge to sit on the brake bridge and was recessed for the area around the bolt hole it should be adequately stabilized laterally.
Having seen that you do possess a modicum of skill wielding a metalcrafting hand tool utilized by artisans that created true works of art . . . . .
How about if you drilled a series of shallow overlapping holes parallel to the end and as wide as the bridge then took an appropriate size file to remove material to the depth of say 1/8” to form a trough and countersink for the area around the bolt?

jdawginsc 

cudak888 

Given that drop bolts have been done in the past with a single bolt, that might just be a bit over the top, don't you think? There's not really that much side-to-side force on a sidepull brake, so long as they're centered.

I wish I still had that drop bolt; it would do exactly what @AdventureManCO needs.

-Kurt

stoneageyosh

Isn’t this whole exercise supposed to be over the top to start with? Just trying to maintain the (pick your own description) standard set so far which is outlandish by design, yes?
Besides aluminum is a lot easier to butcher than steel, even such as it is in a Huffy.

Eric F 

Agreed. Paint it with a coat of mediocre white paint, and it will blend right in.

dddd

I like the "new idea" design.

Alternately, and perhaps easier, might a normal "Silver and Deming" size range (1/2" plus) twist drill possibly work for creating a simple, conical relief recess on the back side of the extender?
This would allow for a more subtly-sized extender, although your design would be stiffer in resisting bending due to it's wider purchase against the lower edge of the existing bridge and up to your drilled pair holes.

jdawginsc 

I was thinking that the drop bolt would not drop it enough, thus the adapter.

RB1-luvr

nuthin' better'n startin' your Monday mornin' at work off with this thread. yep.

cudak888 

That wild one I posted a photo of above was very likely long enough to do the job. IIRC, the brake pads in AdventureManCO's picture weren't at the bottom of the slot either.

-Kurt

sd5782 

It seems obvious that this endeavor has affected the prices on used Huffys. Only $295, but sadly, not my size.





https://toledo.craigslist.org/bik/d/...603598323.html

Iowa10Speed

Look at that gap between seat tube and tire. A frame clearly designed for coast-to-coast tours. Candidate for full Dura Ace triple???

nlerner

Now we know where Rivendell got the inspiration for the “Hillibike” geometry:

AdventureManCO 

that’s mine… this entire thread is just a pump n dump scheme to finance my new Alabama mansion from the pile of used Huffys I found in Vermont!

in other news, we’re 12 posts away from 500 posts devoid of any meaningful content whatsoever, and of course no Campy parts permanently attached to the bike. My mind is on cudak888 (and his sanity) who was concerned about this very same issue nearly 300 posts ago

Now, before any ‘retroconnoiseurs’ get too ‘huffy’ about the Huffy, this whole thing would have been moving more quickly (but not by much) had I not found that the frame and fork have been tweaked into a pretzel, likely by the factory workers (aka sabotage). To wring every bit of performance out of this championship-winning replica, we do need to correct the frame alignment issues, mainly so the bike doesn’t spit me out into traffic. What’s that saying, ‘go slow, save a life?’ That’s the thought here.

But take heart! I mean, I wanted to face all the surfaces on the bike before progressing, and it was only through a difficult, arduous mental battle that I finally decide to compromise and let the build continue without it (really everyone just laughed at me so there’s that). So, we are foregoing some of
the critical precision steps but it’s is for the good of all. The Huffy is a bike of the people.

While Saturday was a day of extravagant details, Sunday was a little more pragmatic. I decide to try to touch up some of the paintwork. The paint is actually in really good shape, but I needed to touch up the panto, and the nds chainstay had some marring from where folks would generally aim their foot to go for the kickstand (and somehow miss??)

I first tried some basic white paint I had in the garage for years, but when I opened it up it just looked like yellow goop - so I decided to use it. I stirred and stirred and finally found some globs of white paint at the bottom of the can. Perfect.

Now before any of you think that I maybe should have gotten new paint, I wasn’t about to spend any more money on this silly dumb project if it didn’t have the word ‘CAMPAGNOLO’ emblazoned across it. Sometimes, you rock what you got.

my first thought was, ‘well I don’t care if it really matches or not, look at those gigantic paint runs going down the undersides of the seatstays’.

But then I painted it, and it just looked wrong, and it turns out I actually did care, unfortunately. So I mixed some paint together and got it relatively close. Remember, this build is all about surface-level vanity.







wow…look how off that fender mount is lol


Yesterday I got a epiphany on the shims for the Campy clamps, so the clamps will be up
next, as well as a special little touch for that bottom bracket.

more to come!

AdventureManCO 

Dura Ace! Good idea.


I’ve got an ‘83 Trek 600…beautiful deep red
and silver and…can’t compare to the Le Grande!

dddd

Were those paint runs? I thought maybe they were a weld seam(???).
On second thought, while I don't know why they look so jagged, it seems like the paint process thoughtfully oriented the drip line along the hidden side of the tubes, perhaps with the bike leaning just enough so that the drips didn't land on the chainstays.
Or who knows, maybe the painting fixtures had strategic drip channels under the seatstays, IHNI.

Now I'm starting to dread that my own chromed Huffy frameset might similarly be out of alignment, though hopefully not beyond what my tradition of heaving of the dropouts to whichever side that they need to be moved to can deal with.

OldForerunner

I wasn't paying attention (shocker) when I saw this picture on my phone and thought it was the kickstand mount and you were doing something cheeky like mounting the brake by the BB like some direct mount brakes.

AdventureManCO 

plenty of cheeky/cheesy/ghetto/janky in the mess of a thread, but this isn’t one of them. This shows the underside of the brake bridge, and the larger bent flange goes toward the rear wheel.

AdventureManCO 

Whooohooo got my ultralight compressionless cable housing today. And red to match the bike.

AdventureManCO 

It sort of looks like either paint runs or where something reacted. It’s kinda shriveled up. On the underside, so not really noticeable. I think I’m just gonna leave them for now. Got some more painting ahead of me today, and received a good tip on how to apply.

AdventureManCO 

Nevermind the lumpy white touch up paint around the 'H', that will be wet-sanded smooth after it's had more time to cure. The build MUST CONTINUE

Eric F 

That's classy AF.

Fahrenheit531 

Holy hell. Somehow I have only just discovered this...madness.
And it is madness of the highest order. I salute you sir.

stoneageyosh

You say “wet sand”? The only wet sand that a Huffy would be subjected to would be at a beach!

AdventureManCO 

Welcome.

AdventureManCO 

Real quick, Le Grande fam:

What kind of tolerances should I be seeing between a bare head tube and a headset cup? Should the headtube be smaller by a few thou? Right now I've got a difference of .02 (two hundreds) and my aching hands are wondering if that is gtg.

This is seamed tubing so I don't really want to split anything!

Thanks all!