This is why titanium sucks.
#1
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This is why titanium sucks.
So earlier today my 3T bars and stem showed up at my front door. I just tried installing them a few minutes ago to get an idea of how the new bike will look when I'm done with the build. While tightening the top bolt on the steerer clamp, I heard a loud "DING" and the bolt was easy to turn all of a sudden. First thing I'm thinking at this point is OMFG did I just crush my new bike's fork steerer? Turns out the titanium bolt in the clamp snapped in half. I immediately removed the tension from the bottom bolt and now I'm sitting here scratching my head. Titanium pedal spindles? No thanks.
I used a Ritchey Carbon 5 Nm torque tool too. Funny thing is, the bolt snapped right as I was expecting the Ritchey tool to click over.
At least it looks good.
I used a Ritchey Carbon 5 Nm torque tool too. Funny thing is, the bolt snapped right as I was expecting the Ritchey tool to click over.
At least it looks good.
#2
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Of course. Everyone knows steel, aluminum, and CF parts do not break, ever, especially when they are made into bolts.
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If only they made carbon fiber bolts, they would be far superior!
Seriously though, did you tighten the two bolts evenly or did you just torque down one bolt first then go to the next?
Seriously though, did you tighten the two bolts evenly or did you just torque down one bolt first then go to the next?
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Bolt was new, I assume? Also, were you load-balancing - i.e. was the bottom bolt pretty tight when you attempted to screw the top bolt?
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Yes, the stem and bolts were brand new and in the package.
I didn't mean to upset the materials geeks. I'm aware that anything can break, regardless of material. But at only 5 Nm? I didn't trust titanium for bicycles before, and I certainly don't now.
Last edited by ilovecycling; 05-25-11 at 06:24 PM.
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I get the grumpy post after just having sheared a Ti bolt. As others pointed out it happens.
The real issue is whether you can get the remaining bit of bolt out of the threaded section of the stem or not. Good luck.
BTW, from what I can see it should be a sharp looking build.
The real issue is whether you can get the remaining bit of bolt out of the threaded section of the stem or not. Good luck.
BTW, from what I can see it should be a sharp looking build.
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Also titanium is weaker than a high grade steel so it will be more likely to break.
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I get the grumpy post after just having sheared a Ti bolt. As others pointed out it happens.
The real issue is whether you can get the remaining bit of bolt out of the threaded section of the stem or not. Good luck.
BTW, from what I can see it should be a sharp looking build.
The real issue is whether you can get the remaining bit of bolt out of the threaded section of the stem or not. Good luck.
BTW, from what I can see it should be a sharp looking build.
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did the bolt screw in easy? get cross threaded? seems unlikely to just snap with little force of that tool... seeing it broke off further down the bolt looks like it got jammed up
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Are you going to cut that steerer tube or did you take all the spacers out before the picture? That could be deadly sticking up like that. Also, did you put the blue thread locker on the bolt or was it on there when you bought it?
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I have never know a steel screw or bolt to break. Strip yes, shear no. Especially at 5nm. Sounds like the screw was not heat treated properly and developed a weak spot in the lattice structure. It could have also been over heated in the threading process. Its a clean break so go get a steel alternative and deal with the extra .1 grams.
#16
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I have never know a steel screw or bolt to break. Strip yes, shear no. Especially at 5nm. Sounds like the screw was not heat treated properly and developed a weak spot in the lattice structure. It could have also been over heated in the threading process. Its a clean break so go get a steel alternative and deal with the extra .1 grams.
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I get the grumpy post after just having sheared a Ti bolt. As others pointed out it happens.
The real issue is whether you can get the remaining bit of bolt out of the threaded section of the stem or not. Good luck.
BTW, from what I can see it should be a sharp looking build.
The real issue is whether you can get the remaining bit of bolt out of the threaded section of the stem or not. Good luck.
BTW, from what I can see it should be a sharp looking build.
Doesn't look like's going to be any exposed in the slit that could be grabbed.
Maybe drill into the original end a bit, then jam an old phillips head in there to try to get it to turn back out.
Or superglue something to the end, then turn it back out.
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 05-25-11 at 07:22 PM.
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If you are lucky and can see the end of the sheared bolt I'd dremmel a slot in it and use a screwrdier to turn it out. That may be a best case scenario.
#20
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I get the grumpy post after just having sheared a Ti bolt. As others pointed out it happens.
The real issue is whether you can get the remaining bit of bolt out of the threaded section of the stem or not. Good luck.
BTW, from what I can see it should be a sharp looking build.
The real issue is whether you can get the remaining bit of bolt out of the threaded section of the stem or not. Good luck.
BTW, from what I can see it should be a sharp looking build.
I wouldn't be surprised if you end up having to replace the stem.
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I've had two of em snap on my 3T stem. LBS gave me some replacements. Not titanium.