Miyata Ridge Runner rear derailleur question
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Miyata Ridge Runner rear derailleur question
Hello, I just bought a 1984 Miyata Ridge Runner mountain bike.
The original rear derailleur is a Suntour Mountech which is known as kind of bad and many were replaced because of the dirt they accumulate and hard to maintain.
The one on the bike was very dirty and the upper pulley was stuck and with broken teeth.
So I want.to replace it with something close like period and Suntour. I tried a Cyclone mark II, but I cannot move the chain on the bigger sprocket (28 teeth), even I released the adjustment screw as much as possible.
Any suggestion way and what should I use instead?
The original rear derailleur is a Suntour Mountech which is known as kind of bad and many were replaced because of the dirt they accumulate and hard to maintain.
The one on the bike was very dirty and the upper pulley was stuck and with broken teeth.
So I want.to replace it with something close like period and Suntour. I tried a Cyclone mark II, but I cannot move the chain on the bigger sprocket (28 teeth), even I released the adjustment screw as much as possible.
Any suggestion way and what should I use instead?
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1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
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The Cyclone MKII GT should easily handle a 28t cog. How much space is there between the small cog and the drop-out/stays? Is it a freewheel hub? If there's enough room you could put a spacer behind the freewheel to move it outboard some. Or, ideally, reconfigure the axle spacers and re-dish the wheel....
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The Cyclone MKII GT should easily handle a 28t cog. How much space is there between the small cog and the drop-out/stays? Is it a freewheel hub? If there's enough room you could put a spacer behind the freewheel to move it outboard some. Or, ideally, reconfigure the axle spacers and re-dish the wheel....
It is a freewheel. I hope I can remove it and put a spacer there, because I have enough space.
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As I said, ideally you'd get things to line up by changing out axle spacers (the 'space' you lose on the drive side needs to get taken up on the NDS so the OLD fits the dropout spacing properly) and re-dishing. But the behind-the-freewheel spacer works too. In theory the spacers (which seem to usually be aluminum) can get crushed under torque and come apart, but I haven't seen it. They're the same spacers that get used for tweaking bottom bracket alignment. These are the ones I've used in the past- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SQKT2MV
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Hello, I just bought a 1984 Miyata Ridge Runner mountain bike.
The original rear derailleur is a Suntour Mountech which is known as kind of bad and many were replaced because of the dirt they accumulate and hard to maintain.
The one on the bike was very dirty and the upper pulley was stuck and with broken teeth.
So I want.to replace it with something close like period and Suntour. I tried a Cyclone mark II, but I cannot move the chain on the bigger sprocket (28 teeth), even I released the adjustment screw as much as possible.
Any suggestion way and what should I use instead?
The original rear derailleur is a Suntour Mountech which is known as kind of bad and many were replaced because of the dirt they accumulate and hard to maintain.
The one on the bike was very dirty and the upper pulley was stuck and with broken teeth.
So I want.to replace it with something close like period and Suntour. I tried a Cyclone mark II, but I cannot move the chain on the bigger sprocket (28 teeth), even I released the adjustment screw as much as possible.
Any suggestion way and what should I use instead?
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The Cyclone MKII GT should easily handle a 28t cog. How much space is there between the small cog and the drop-out/stays? Is it a freewheel hub? If there's enough room you could put a spacer behind the freewheel to move it outboard some. Or, ideally, reconfigure the axle spacers and re-dish the wheel....
Thank you
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1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
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