Rear wheel spacing
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Rear wheel spacing
Me again. Okay the front fork looks good, the derailleur jockeys are good, now to focus on the rear wheel. The dropout gap is 115mm, currently I have 124mm between the locknuts on the new wheel. I have quite the spacer in on the freewheel side, so I will try a smaller spacer and see how it looks. I can't attach the old freewheel yet as I don't have a 2-prong freewheel remover - going to source one. So should I hold off doing any spacer work until I have the freewheel threaded on? I really wish I could attach a photo, but I am on post 6 of 10 before I can add attachments.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NW Burbs, Chicago
Posts: 12,054
Mentioned: 201 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3015 Post(s)
Liked 3,804 Times
in
1,408 Posts
115 spacing will require either a 3-speed freewheel and 1/8 chain or a 4-speed freewheel and 3/32 chain. 120 spacing will accommodate a 5-speed freewheel. If you go to 120, I recommend cold setting the rear to 120.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
But the old freewheel is 5-speed as far as I can tell. That said, the wheel has one hell of a dish on it. But heck I cold set the front fork 10mm, doing 5mm on the back should be easy
Last edited by Stickers66; 10-25-21 at 07:38 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NW Burbs, Chicago
Posts: 12,054
Mentioned: 201 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3015 Post(s)
Liked 3,804 Times
in
1,408 Posts
Then your rear spacing needs to be 120.
Likes For iab:
#5
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,624
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3888 Post(s)
Liked 6,488 Times
in
3,211 Posts
If it's a flip, I would respace the hub to 120, redish, and squeeze it in there without spreading the frame. It might slide right in.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Can someone explain to me what the "freewheel stop" to end of the locknut is? Is it the end of the threads on the hub? I understand this distance needs to be 29mm.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1608 Post(s)
Liked 2,216 Times
in
1,103 Posts
@Stickers66 - The key issue is clearance between the smallest sprocket and the chain stay to allow the chain to move to and from the smallest sprocket. It will vary depending on the construction and features of the frame in that location. Some frames require more than others.
Once you have the clearance you need, then you can start getting to 120 OLD with spacers on the NDS of the axle.
The next step is rim dish to center the rim to the bike centerline.
Not all freewheels are the same "thickness."
I am in the process of converting from 8V DA to 9V Campagnolo using a TI freehub. I had to go through the steps listed.
Here is an example of the clearance that works for me.
P1050450 on Flickr
Once you have the clearance you need, then you can start getting to 120 OLD with spacers on the NDS of the axle.
The next step is rim dish to center the rim to the bike centerline.
Not all freewheels are the same "thickness."
I am in the process of converting from 8V DA to 9V Campagnolo using a TI freehub. I had to go through the steps listed.
Here is an example of the clearance that works for me.
P1050450 on Flickr
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.