Dumpstered 1977 Pro Tour find
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Dumpstered 1977 Pro Tour find
I got in a good, if brief ride yesterday as the rain was about to arrive, and decided to pass by a local bike shop who is in the process of moving to a new location.
After stopping in and learning the details of the move, I found that the rain still hadn't arrived, so spent a minute to check what might be getting thrown out.
At first I spotted a mostly-there old Stumpjumper and an old, weathered ten-speed. I then realized that there was a Mighty-Tour crankset on it!
So I got to hauling everything up to my place, two slow, strenuous ghost-ride trips got the bikes, a box of parts and some good wheels up the hill onto my porch, just as the rain started falling! I even had time to take a dozen photos before real rain forced me inside.
The Pro Tour was in excellent original condition but with plenty of outside exposure corrosion. Paint and chrome held up well considering what the top-tube housing clips look like!
Bearings are all suspect at this point, very likely there will be rust inside. Tires are completely gone, having see-through sidewalls at this point, yet I have pumped both tubes to 40psi and they are holding! These are real late-1970's tires, likely the originals since the rim sidewalls show the bike was hardly ever ridden.
I just completed the usual oil-can tune-up, mainly to facilitate easy parts removal w/o damage to fasteners and dust caps, etc.
I need to determine seatpost size here, guessing 26,6 but I need to get a post and saddle on it to take it for a gentle spin up and down the street. The derailer hanger also needs a bit of straightening so I will do that as the oil continues soaking in.
The bike is my size exactly, and this is only the third Pro Tour I've ever seen in person. I once owned a too-large later model having the regular centerpulls vs. the brazed-on pivots of these earlier models. And the third one I ever saw is still in the back room of the shop where this one came from, apparently sitting there for years but not for sale as I sort of remember being told it was being stored(?) there for someone. I almost thought that this was that bike, but realized that it couldn't possibly have aged that much since I last saw it!
Maybe I'm wrong ant it IS that bike!!!!! Shoot, I would have paid them money for it, and who knows maybe someday I will(???). Twilight Zone music in the background I know.
The other goodies I found were a brand new 8s 700c rear wheel having a new 12-23t cassette, a new Matrix Photon tubular rim and new Hugi freehub that would have been extraspensive back in the 90's.
That and some choice bmx parts, Road chainrings (many still new), plus a box of useful building/construction adhesive materials, some never even opened.
Here it is, I will post follow-up pics on it right away after I get a saddle and post on it and after my brief cleaning. Then I will measure all of the frame angles.
I'll try extra hard not to break my neck on it riding on these old tires!
After stopping in and learning the details of the move, I found that the rain still hadn't arrived, so spent a minute to check what might be getting thrown out.
At first I spotted a mostly-there old Stumpjumper and an old, weathered ten-speed. I then realized that there was a Mighty-Tour crankset on it!
So I got to hauling everything up to my place, two slow, strenuous ghost-ride trips got the bikes, a box of parts and some good wheels up the hill onto my porch, just as the rain started falling! I even had time to take a dozen photos before real rain forced me inside.
The Pro Tour was in excellent original condition but with plenty of outside exposure corrosion. Paint and chrome held up well considering what the top-tube housing clips look like!
Bearings are all suspect at this point, very likely there will be rust inside. Tires are completely gone, having see-through sidewalls at this point, yet I have pumped both tubes to 40psi and they are holding! These are real late-1970's tires, likely the originals since the rim sidewalls show the bike was hardly ever ridden.
I just completed the usual oil-can tune-up, mainly to facilitate easy parts removal w/o damage to fasteners and dust caps, etc.
I need to determine seatpost size here, guessing 26,6 but I need to get a post and saddle on it to take it for a gentle spin up and down the street. The derailer hanger also needs a bit of straightening so I will do that as the oil continues soaking in.
The bike is my size exactly, and this is only the third Pro Tour I've ever seen in person. I once owned a too-large later model having the regular centerpulls vs. the brazed-on pivots of these earlier models. And the third one I ever saw is still in the back room of the shop where this one came from, apparently sitting there for years but not for sale as I sort of remember being told it was being stored(?) there for someone. I almost thought that this was that bike, but realized that it couldn't possibly have aged that much since I last saw it!
Maybe I'm wrong ant it IS that bike!!!!! Shoot, I would have paid them money for it, and who knows maybe someday I will(???). Twilight Zone music in the background I know.
The other goodies I found were a brand new 8s 700c rear wheel having a new 12-23t cassette, a new Matrix Photon tubular rim and new Hugi freehub that would have been extraspensive back in the 90's.
That and some choice bmx parts, Road chainrings (many still new), plus a box of useful building/construction adhesive materials, some never even opened.
Here it is, I will post follow-up pics on it right away after I get a saddle and post on it and after my brief cleaning. Then I will measure all of the frame angles.
I'll try extra hard not to break my neck on it riding on these old tires!
Last edited by dddd; 12-01-19 at 01:08 PM.
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Amazing. the chain though might need an abundance of TLC to not have frozen links.
Wild BMX cranks.
Unglued rim... I forget so many are afraid of tubulars.
Wild BMX cranks.
Unglued rim... I forget so many are afraid of tubulars.
#3
Senior Member
I got in a good, if brief ride yesterday as the rain was about to arrive, and decided to pass by a local bike shop who is in the process of moving to a new location.
After stopping in and learning the details of the move, I found that the rain still hadn't arrived, so spent a minute to check what might be getting thrown out.
At first I spotted a mostly-there old Stumpjumper and an old, weathered ten-speed. I then realized that there was a Mighty-Tour crankset on it!
So I got to hauling everything up to my place, two slow, strenuous ghost-ride trips got the bikes, a box of parts and some good wheels up the hill onto my porch, just as the rain started falling! I even had time to take a dozen photos before real rain forced me inside.
The Pro Tour was in excellent original condition but with plenty of outside exposure corrosion. Paint and chrome held up well considering what the top-tube housing clips look like!
Bearings are all suspect at this point, very likely there will be rust inside. Tires are completely gone, having see-through sidewalls at this point, yet I have pumped both tubes to 40psi and they are holding! These are real late-1970's tires, likely the originals since the rim sidewalls show the bike was hardly ever ridden.
I just completed the usual oil-can tune-up, mainly to facilitate easy parts removal w/o damage to fasteners and dust caps, etc.
I need to determine seatpost size here, guessing 26,6 but I need to get a post and saddle on it to take it for a gentle spin up and down the street. The derailer hanger also needs a bit of straightening so I will do that as the oil continues soaking in.
The bike is my size exactly, and this is only the third Pro Tour I've ever seen in person. I once owned a too-large later model having the regular centerpulls vs. the brazed-on pivots of these earlier models. And the third one I ever saw is still in the back room of the shop where this one came from, apparently sitting there for years but not for sale as I sort of remember being told it was being stored(?) there for someone. I almost thought that this was that bike, but realized that it couldn't possibly have aged that much since I last saw it!
Maybe I'm wrong ant it IS that bike!!!!! Shoot, I would have paid them money for it, and who knows maybe someday I will(???). Twilight Zone music in the background I know.
The other goodies I found were a brand new 8s 700c rear wheel having a new 12-23t cassette, a new Matrix Photon tubular rim and new Hugi freehub that would have been extraspensive back in the 90's.
That and some choice bmx parts, Road chainrings (many still new), plus a box of useful building/construction adhesive materials, some never even opened.
Here it is, I will post follow-up pics on it right away after I get a saddle and post on it and after my brief cleaning. Then I will measure all of the frame angles.
I'll try extra hard not to break my neck on it riding on these old tires!
After stopping in and learning the details of the move, I found that the rain still hadn't arrived, so spent a minute to check what might be getting thrown out.
At first I spotted a mostly-there old Stumpjumper and an old, weathered ten-speed. I then realized that there was a Mighty-Tour crankset on it!
So I got to hauling everything up to my place, two slow, strenuous ghost-ride trips got the bikes, a box of parts and some good wheels up the hill onto my porch, just as the rain started falling! I even had time to take a dozen photos before real rain forced me inside.
The Pro Tour was in excellent original condition but with plenty of outside exposure corrosion. Paint and chrome held up well considering what the top-tube housing clips look like!
Bearings are all suspect at this point, very likely there will be rust inside. Tires are completely gone, having see-through sidewalls at this point, yet I have pumped both tubes to 40psi and they are holding! These are real late-1970's tires, likely the originals since the rim sidewalls show the bike was hardly ever ridden.
I just completed the usual oil-can tune-up, mainly to facilitate easy parts removal w/o damage to fasteners and dust caps, etc.
I need to determine seatpost size here, guessing 26,6 but I need to get a post and saddle on it to take it for a gentle spin up and down the street. The derailer hanger also needs a bit of straightening so I will do that as the oil continues soaking in.
The bike is my size exactly, and this is only the third Pro Tour I've ever seen in person. I once owned a too-large later model having the regular centerpulls vs. the brazed-on pivots of these earlier models. And the third one I ever saw is still in the back room of the shop where this one came from, apparently sitting there for years but not for sale as I sort of remember being told it was being stored(?) there for someone. I almost thought that this was that bike, but realized that it couldn't possibly have aged that much since I last saw it!
Maybe I'm wrong ant it IS that bike!!!!! Shoot, I would have paid them money for it, and who knows maybe someday I will(???). Twilight Zone music in the background I know.
The other goodies I found were a brand new 8s 700c rear wheel having a new 12-23t cassette, a new Matrix Photon tubular rim and new Hugi freehub that would have been extraspensive back in the 90's.
That and some choice bmx parts, Road chainrings (many still new), plus a box of useful building/construction adhesive materials, some never even opened.
Here it is, I will post follow-up pics on it right away after I get a saddle and post on it and after my brief cleaning. Then I will measure all of the frame angles.
I'll try extra hard not to break my neck on it riding on these old tires!
Major score on the piston GT stem!! Yawzaa! Mucho collector value.
#5
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Nice find OP 58? (my size too!) I really need to find better dumpsters
#6
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nice finds/
shops here in s.e. Mich. purged their old parts/stash when redoing their floor plans for the shops to be visible to walk ins about 8 years past.good to see someone will keep rare parts out of the landfill.where did you say that dumpster is at?
#7
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Hehe, the chain responded to oil and behaved immediately, helped by the oil I fed into the pulleys, even the freewheel seems completely usable.
Thanks for the heads-up on the GT stem, I knew it might have value but didn't know if it would be much. Those cranks are much newer so may be of less value even though they are unused.
Vintage_Cyclist, you're right about the seatpost size! I first tried a 26.6 and it seemed rather loose, so I then tried a 26.8 and it fit tight but went in without too much drama after I greased the inside of the seat tube. I lucked out in that it happened to be a 1977 SR fluted post that is probably what this bike came with.
The test-riding went great, though the tires are really done and lopsided so ready to fail. I chanced putting 48psi in and got away with it!
It actually rides like a new bike now! The rims have no dings at all and still with anodizing intact, so my first trip downhill in the rain was an eye-opener as the pads wouldn't grip the rims even though the cables are working smoothly. It should be fine in dry conditions and I may even be able to keep the stock hoods on board for a few hundred miles, held with a wrap or two of clear Scotch tape.
The cleaning is going well, the top tube cable clips are still the big eyesore, they are completely rusted.
Thanks for the heads-up on the GT stem, I knew it might have value but didn't know if it would be much. Those cranks are much newer so may be of less value even though they are unused.
Vintage_Cyclist, you're right about the seatpost size! I first tried a 26.6 and it seemed rather loose, so I then tried a 26.8 and it fit tight but went in without too much drama after I greased the inside of the seat tube. I lucked out in that it happened to be a 1977 SR fluted post that is probably what this bike came with.
The test-riding went great, though the tires are really done and lopsided so ready to fail. I chanced putting 48psi in and got away with it!
It actually rides like a new bike now! The rims have no dings at all and still with anodizing intact, so my first trip downhill in the rain was an eye-opener as the pads wouldn't grip the rims even though the cables are working smoothly. It should be fine in dry conditions and I may even be able to keep the stock hoods on board for a few hundred miles, held with a wrap or two of clear Scotch tape.
The cleaning is going well, the top tube cable clips are still the big eyesore, they are completely rusted.
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Duuuuuude.
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#10
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Very thoughtful of you to give it a hand, but I probably would have let Mother Nature reclaim the iron out of that one. Sometimes oxidation is a good thing.
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Hehe, the chain responded to oil and behaved immediately, helped by the oil I fed into the pulleys, even the freewheel seems completely usable.
Thanks for the heads-up on the GT stem, I knew it might have value but didn't know if it would be much. Those cranks are much newer so may be of less value even though they are unused.
Vintage_Cyclist, you're right about the seatpost size! I first tried a 26.6 and it seemed rather loose, so I then tried a 26.8 and it fit tight but went in without too much drama after I greased the inside of the seat tube. I lucked out in that it happened to be a 1977 SR fluted post that is probably what this bike came with.
The test-riding went great, though the tires are really done and lopsided so ready to fail. I chanced putting 48psi in and got away with it!
It actually rides like a new bike now! The rims have no dings at all and still with anodizing intact, so my first trip downhill in the rain was an eye-opener as the pads wouldn't grip the rims even though the cables are working smoothly. It should be fine in dry conditions and I may even be able to keep the stock hoods on board for a few hundred miles, held with a wrap or two of clear Scotch tape.
The cleaning is going well, the top tube cable clips are still the big eyesore, they are completely rusted.
Thanks for the heads-up on the GT stem, I knew it might have value but didn't know if it would be much. Those cranks are much newer so may be of less value even though they are unused.
Vintage_Cyclist, you're right about the seatpost size! I first tried a 26.6 and it seemed rather loose, so I then tried a 26.8 and it fit tight but went in without too much drama after I greased the inside of the seat tube. I lucked out in that it happened to be a 1977 SR fluted post that is probably what this bike came with.
The test-riding went great, though the tires are really done and lopsided so ready to fail. I chanced putting 48psi in and got away with it!
It actually rides like a new bike now! The rims have no dings at all and still with anodizing intact, so my first trip downhill in the rain was an eye-opener as the pads wouldn't grip the rims even though the cables are working smoothly. It should be fine in dry conditions and I may even be able to keep the stock hoods on board for a few hundred miles, held with a wrap or two of clear Scotch tape.
The cleaning is going well, the top tube cable clips are still the big eyesore, they are completely rusted.
#12
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Ah yes, the Stumpy, I'm guessing is from 1990 or so. It was missing the front wheel among other parts, but I found a 26" wheelset nearby with an inflated tire on the front wheel so I could ghost-ride it home with the extra wheels hanging from the bars.
It has no brakes and has plain ol' Deore derailers and 7s thumbies. Direct-Drive tubing.
It's a size small for me I think it's a 16 or 17" frame.
It's raining right now, which was useful when I was cleaning the Pro Tour, but I can't take a picture of the Stumpy right now. Oops, I just remembered that I took a photo last night!
It has no brakes and has plain ol' Deore derailers and 7s thumbies. Direct-Drive tubing.
It's a size small for me I think it's a 16 or 17" frame.
It's raining right now, which was useful when I was cleaning the Pro Tour, but I can't take a picture of the Stumpy right now. Oops, I just remembered that I took a photo last night!
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Love my ProTour. I've only ridden it loaded for credit card touring, very solid and comfy, not as responsive as my Weigle-ized Raleigh Competition, but putting some new Compass Rene Herse 700x35 tires on it helped a lot to close the gap.
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And I thought I scored on a $20 Motobecane!
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Amazing find. Crazy what bike shops will throw out these days. Most kids working as mechanics just see a Varsity when a steel bike rolls in...
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And the dumpster was feeling very good that day.
"Here," it said, "here's a top-of-the-line Centurion that did a little bit of riding and a whole lot of sitting. Yes, here, take it. You won't even have to sweat the possibility of a stuck seat post."
Very good indeed.
"Here," it said, "here's a top-of-the-line Centurion that did a little bit of riding and a whole lot of sitting. Yes, here, take it. You won't even have to sweat the possibility of a stuck seat post."
Very good indeed.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
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Ah yes, the Stumpy, I'm guessing is from 1990 or so. It was missing the front wheel among other parts, but I found a 26" wheelset nearby with an inflated tire on the front wheel so I could ghost-ride it home with the extra wheels hanging from the bars.
It has no brakes and has plain ol' Deore derailers and 7s thumbies. Direct-Drive tubing.
It's a size small for me I think it's a 16 or 17" frame.
It's raining right now, which was useful when I was cleaning the Pro Tour, but I can't take a picture of the Stumpy right now. Oops, I just remembered that I took a photo last night!
It has no brakes and has plain ol' Deore derailers and 7s thumbies. Direct-Drive tubing.
It's a size small for me I think it's a 16 or 17" frame.
It's raining right now, which was useful when I was cleaning the Pro Tour, but I can't take a picture of the Stumpy right now. Oops, I just remembered that I took a photo last night!
#19
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The bottom bracket came out without difficulty, and while there were leaves and dirt that had fallen into the open-top seat tube, no rust appears inside of the frame!
The cups and spindle have rust-pitted races, but it isn't so bad as expected and the parts will go back on board.
The Spindle measures 114mm and is offsetted 2.5mm toward the drive side (i.e. the right end is 5mm longer than the left end).
The 2.5mm is equal to the change from ISO taper to JIS taper on each end, so I could get the identical chainline using a 114mm symmetrical JIS bottom bracket.
That would leave the left and right crankarms the same distance off center, versus this setup's left arm being tucked in 5mm from where the right arm sits away from center.
Visible on the caliper is 12.71mm, which is with the end of the spindle flush on the same surface that the caliper jaws are resting on. So this measurement is made at a distance from the end of the spindle equal to the thickness of the jaws of the caliper.
A JIS spindle would be about 12.89mm, while an old Campag cup/cone spindle would measure about 12.78mm, i.e. just a little closer to ISO than to JIS.
This spindle measures identical to a Campag cartridge bb spindle, which is specified as true ISO, yet it oddly enough pre-dates the Campag ISO standard by at least 15 years.
Still no explanation as how Sugino Mighty (aka Suntour Superbe/Sprint) came up with this ISO taper in the early 1970's. It seems that it is a near-copy of the even older Stronglight taper, which is perhaps a couple of thousandths smaller, rather than being a copy of Campagnolo's old taper, even though the rest of the design is roughly equivalent to Campagnolo Record, right down to the spindle length of the pre-1978 parts.
The cups and spindle have rust-pitted races, but it isn't so bad as expected and the parts will go back on board.
The Spindle measures 114mm and is offsetted 2.5mm toward the drive side (i.e. the right end is 5mm longer than the left end).
The 2.5mm is equal to the change from ISO taper to JIS taper on each end, so I could get the identical chainline using a 114mm symmetrical JIS bottom bracket.
That would leave the left and right crankarms the same distance off center, versus this setup's left arm being tucked in 5mm from where the right arm sits away from center.
Visible on the caliper is 12.71mm, which is with the end of the spindle flush on the same surface that the caliper jaws are resting on. So this measurement is made at a distance from the end of the spindle equal to the thickness of the jaws of the caliper.
A JIS spindle would be about 12.89mm, while an old Campag cup/cone spindle would measure about 12.78mm, i.e. just a little closer to ISO than to JIS.
This spindle measures identical to a Campag cartridge bb spindle, which is specified as true ISO, yet it oddly enough pre-dates the Campag ISO standard by at least 15 years.
Still no explanation as how Sugino Mighty (aka Suntour Superbe/Sprint) came up with this ISO taper in the early 1970's. It seems that it is a near-copy of the even older Stronglight taper, which is perhaps a couple of thousandths smaller, rather than being a copy of Campagnolo's old taper, even though the rest of the design is roughly equivalent to Campagnolo Record, right down to the spindle length of the pre-1978 parts.
Last edited by dddd; 12-01-19 at 09:05 PM. Reason: 5mm was 2.5mm
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The bottom bracket came out without difficulty, and while there were leaves and dirt that had fallen into the open-top seat tube, no rust appears inside of the frame!
The cups and spindle have rust-pitted races, but it isn't so bad as expected and the parts will go back on board.
The Spindle measures 114mm and is offsetted 2.5mm toward the drive side (i.e. the right end is 5mm longer than the left end).
The 2.5mm is equal to the change from ISO taper to JIS taper on each end, so I could get the identical chainline using a 114mm symmetrical JIS bottom bracket.
That would leave the left and right crankarms the same distance off center, versus this setup's left arm being tucked in 2.5mm from where the right arm sits away from center.
Visible on the caliper is 12.71mm, which is with the end of the spindle flush on the same surface that the caliper jaws are resting on. So this measurement is made at a distance from the end of the spindle equal to the thickness of the jaws of the caliper.
A JIS spindle would be about 12.89mm, while an old Campag cup/cone spindle would measure about 12.78mm, i.e. just a little closer to ISO than to JIS.
This spindle measures identical to a Campag cartridge bb spindle, which is specified as true ISO, yet it oddly enough pre-dates the Campag ISO standard by at least 15 years.
Still no explanation as how Sugino Mighty (aka Suntour Superbe/Sprint) came up with this ISO taper in the early 1970's. It seems that it is a near-copy of the even older Stronglight taper, which is perhaps a couple of thousandths smaller, rather than being a copy of Campagnolo's old taper, even though the rest of the design is roughly equivalent to Campagnolo Record, right down to the spindle length of the pre-1978 parts.
The cups and spindle have rust-pitted races, but it isn't so bad as expected and the parts will go back on board.
The Spindle measures 114mm and is offsetted 2.5mm toward the drive side (i.e. the right end is 5mm longer than the left end).
The 2.5mm is equal to the change from ISO taper to JIS taper on each end, so I could get the identical chainline using a 114mm symmetrical JIS bottom bracket.
That would leave the left and right crankarms the same distance off center, versus this setup's left arm being tucked in 2.5mm from where the right arm sits away from center.
Visible on the caliper is 12.71mm, which is with the end of the spindle flush on the same surface that the caliper jaws are resting on. So this measurement is made at a distance from the end of the spindle equal to the thickness of the jaws of the caliper.
A JIS spindle would be about 12.89mm, while an old Campag cup/cone spindle would measure about 12.78mm, i.e. just a little closer to ISO than to JIS.
This spindle measures identical to a Campag cartridge bb spindle, which is specified as true ISO, yet it oddly enough pre-dates the Campag ISO standard by at least 15 years.
Still no explanation as how Sugino Mighty (aka Suntour Superbe/Sprint) came up with this ISO taper in the early 1970's. It seems that it is a near-copy of the even older Stronglight taper, which is perhaps a couple of thousandths smaller, rather than being a copy of Campagnolo's old taper, even though the rest of the design is roughly equivalent to Campagnolo Record, right down to the spindle length of the pre-1978 parts.
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#21
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: se MIch.
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Bikes: 1938 claud butler,1983 Basso,teledyne titan,teocali super,nrs,1993 stumpjumper fsr,Paramountain,Paramount Buell(sold),4 banger,Zaskar LE,Colnago Master Ibex MTB,1987ish,.etc....
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abandoned?
hope no one claims its theirs.
#22
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,194
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
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I'm certain that they would not recognize that the bike had a good Mighty Tour crank on it, or had brazed centerpull bosses or wrap-around seatstay cap. Even the full chrome socks didn't raise any question of what it might be worth. And a brand-new Hugi-hubbed tubular wheel from the 8s era, what's anybody going to want with that?
The dumpster itself was a large one, piled so high with broken bike frames and old shop fixtures that the lid wouldn't close!
I almost also took home the LeMond steel frame from there that turned out to have a gigantic wrap-around crack that encompassed both the seat tube and down tube. It was beautiful, metallic green and was even my size, but that crack extended even out to the butting transition on the down tube where it suddenly turned almost 180-degrees around the tube!
#23
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Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
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I got a call once from a coworker that a 20 yard dumpster full of old bikes was being dumped at the landfill. By the time I got there, it had been run over by the compactor. I talked to the driver who brought it in and he said that had been his second load from the residence. I got the address since he said he was going out for one more load. All that was left, bike wise was a Centurian semi pro and a Fuji touring series III. I gave the kid doing the clean out a twenty for letting me take them. He said I should have come earlier...of coarse.
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#24
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,194
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
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Ehh, the Record cranks might be less durable than Mighty cranks. Actually hard to say since so many serious riders put big mileage on their Record cranks, but I do very often come across well-used Record cranks having cracks between the arm and the spider, usually top-side when the driveside crankarm is pointing forward.
But the bottom brackets are a different story. I've seem Record bottom brackets with quite-high mileage still in the game with smooth races.
I've seen a couple of Mighty bottom brackets with premature pitting of the spindle races, one of which I installed myself new.
The machining quality of the Mighty bottom bracket looks great, no question, but I believe Record bottom brackets are better in the long run, incredibly good parts.
I've got a stash of bottom brackets that would have let me put in a new Mighty bb on this Pro Tour, but I'll see if it gets enough use first before installing any perfect parts!
I tried to salvage the rusted top tube cable housing clips, but one broke just from removing it. So now I'm focusing on getting the top tube wrapped in vinegar-soaked rags so I can better evaluate the paint situation tomorrow. There is rust damage, just not sure yet how bad.
And I do have a good set of the needed weird clamps that position the cable toward the top-right side with the clamping below at Six-O-clock. Knew I would need them some day!
But the bottom brackets are a different story. I've seem Record bottom brackets with quite-high mileage still in the game with smooth races.
I've seen a couple of Mighty bottom brackets with premature pitting of the spindle races, one of which I installed myself new.
The machining quality of the Mighty bottom bracket looks great, no question, but I believe Record bottom brackets are better in the long run, incredibly good parts.
I've got a stash of bottom brackets that would have let me put in a new Mighty bb on this Pro Tour, but I'll see if it gets enough use first before installing any perfect parts!
I tried to salvage the rusted top tube cable housing clips, but one broke just from removing it. So now I'm focusing on getting the top tube wrapped in vinegar-soaked rags so I can better evaluate the paint situation tomorrow. There is rust damage, just not sure yet how bad.
And I do have a good set of the needed weird clamps that position the cable toward the top-right side with the clamping below at Six-O-clock. Knew I would need them some day!
#25
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,045
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
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Ehh, the Record cranks might be less durable than Mighty cranks. Actually hard to say since so many serious riders put big mileage on their Record cranks, but I do very often come across well-used Record cranks having cracks between the arm and the spider, usually top-side when the driveside crankarm is pointing forward.
But the bottom brackets are a different story. I've seem Record bottom brackets with quite-high mileage still in the game with smooth races.
I've seen a couple of Mighty bottom brackets with premature pitting of the spindle races, one of which I installed myself new.
The machining quality of the Mighty bottom bracket looks great, no question, but I believe Record bottom brackets are better in the long run, incredibly good parts.
I've got a stash of bottom brackets that would have let me put in a new Mighty bb on this Pro Tour, but I'll see if it gets enough use first before installing any perfect parts!
I tried to salvage the rusted top tube cable housing clips, but one broke just from removing it. So now I'm focusing on getting the top tube wrapped in vinegar-soaked rags so I can better evaluate the paint situation tomorrow. There is rust damage, just not sure yet how bad.
And I do have a good set of the needed weird clamps that position the cable toward the top-right side with the clamping below at Six-O-clock. Knew I would need them some day!
But the bottom brackets are a different story. I've seem Record bottom brackets with quite-high mileage still in the game with smooth races.
I've seen a couple of Mighty bottom brackets with premature pitting of the spindle races, one of which I installed myself new.
The machining quality of the Mighty bottom bracket looks great, no question, but I believe Record bottom brackets are better in the long run, incredibly good parts.
I've got a stash of bottom brackets that would have let me put in a new Mighty bb on this Pro Tour, but I'll see if it gets enough use first before installing any perfect parts!
I tried to salvage the rusted top tube cable housing clips, but one broke just from removing it. So now I'm focusing on getting the top tube wrapped in vinegar-soaked rags so I can better evaluate the paint situation tomorrow. There is rust damage, just not sure yet how bad.
And I do have a good set of the needed weird clamps that position the cable toward the top-right side with the clamping below at Six-O-clock. Knew I would need them some day!
My first lesson in BB torture was in high school, got a Mizutani Super fitted with a "Mighty" Sugino Mighty Competition that was beautiful to me even knowing nothing one way or the other. So I proceeded to ride the crap out of it which was all good until the rains came and washed out the piddly amount of grease that was in there and of course me not paying attention it got ground up pretty good, still not smart enough to replace even the bearings but I greased it up with axle grease, set it up a little loose and it lasted until it was stolen with the Raleigh SC it was on 30 years later, probably still going somewhere.