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Suntour LeTech rear Derailleur Replacement

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Suntour LeTech rear Derailleur Replacement

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Old 05-06-23, 07:19 PM
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Kaiju
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Suntour LeTech rear Derailleur Replacement

Hello again; So after reassembling my new/old bicycle I discovered how the rear spokes were damaged. My derailleur has a bit too much play side to side. I'm not sure that disassembly and reassembly would do much good. Other than that, can anyone shed light on a possible replacement with a newer derailleur or do I need to replace with the same? This is my first attempt at any bicycle restoration. The bicycle is a Centurion Pro Tour 15.

Last edited by Kaiju; 05-07-23 at 08:44 AM. Reason: additional info.
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Old 05-07-23, 08:25 AM
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Mr. 66
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I think I would trash the old, it may or may not be good, can't tell without a pictures. Replace with the the same, sure if you can find but that's not critical to match. I think I would find something like a Cyclone 7000, or a long cage of Suntour type just in keeping with brand throughout the build.
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Old 05-07-23, 08:46 AM
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Kaiju
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Someone pointed out I was missing some info to determine the path I would take.

I have now friction shifters, would be easiest to keep them but willing to convert.

Running a triple chainring.

6 gears on rear cog.

23 teeth on largest rear wheel cog.

The derailleur looks to be mid to long cage. Distance between pulleys is 1-3/4" and 3-1/8" center to center.

Can"t post pics yet as I have less than ten posts.
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Old 05-07-23, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaiju
Hello again; So after reassembling my new/old bicycle I discovered how the rear spokes were damaged. My derailleur has a bit too much play side to side. I'm not sure that disassembly and reassembly would do much good. Other than that, can anyone shed light on a possible replacement with a newer derailleur or do I need to replace with the same? This is my first attempt at any bicycle restoration. The bicycle is a Centurion Pro Tour 15.
When you say it has “too much play side to side” is it loose when you move it by hand or does it over shift when the cable is used? If you remove it from the bike and the derailer can be jiggled, then it is probably worn out. But if the derailer is still stiff, it is likely that your limit screws aren’t adjusted correctly.

If you need a replacement, just about anything will work. If you want period correct, you will have to go to the used market (i.e. Ebay). If you don’t care, Shimano or Microshift will work. I’d probably go with 9 speed or below even though you aren’t worried about indexing.
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Old 05-07-23, 10:20 AM
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Thanks, since I would prefer to stay with the friction shifters, does that limit me to older derailleurs or can I use a more modern derailleur with the friction shifters. Does not need to be period correct since I've already updated the headset.
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Old 05-07-23, 10:22 AM
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Yes, jiggles and wiggles in hand. Tried tightening everything, but nothing loose was found, just worn.
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Old 05-07-23, 10:23 AM
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Also, am I limited to the longer cages with my current gearing. Triple in front and 23 tooth large cog in rear?
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Old 05-07-23, 10:36 AM
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You can use modern stuff without problems. A 23 tooth rear cog is actually quite small. I think my earlier PT came with a 30 tooth large cog. By today's standards, 23 is practically a corncob. Mid-length cage will probably do the job, but still compare the specifications to your actual setup.
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Old 05-07-23, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaiju
Thanks, since I would prefer to stay with the friction shifters, does that limit me to older derailleurs or can I use a more modern derailleur with the friction shifters. Does not need to be period correct since I've already updated the headset.
With friction it doesn’t matter much. Index matters but not friction.
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Old 05-07-23, 11:09 AM
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If you want to stay with something period-correct, I'd use a Suntour Cyclone Mk-II GT (long cage). I have an '84 centurion pro-tour still running the original Le Tech, as well as an '80 pro tour with the original Cyclone GT. Both shift flawlessly.
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