Nishiki International - Which would you choose? $80 vs $140
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Nishiki International - Which would you choose? $80 vs $140
Nishiki International - Which would you choose? $80 vs $140
I'm currently looking at two Nishiki bikes. I believe they are from the 80's but not sure. Both are said to be in good operational order. The blue one is $80, the black one $140. The only other difference I can see is that the black one has stem shifters. Does one of these immediately stand out as 'better' than the other? My plan is to treat one of these as a 'light' project bike to 'restore' to a more classic look and take it for longer rides than I currently take with my 3-speed Giant Via commuter that I've been riding for the past 10 years. I can't claim to be a biker, but I sense a growing interest.
Considering this, which bike would you go with? Or neither?
Thanks!
I'm currently looking at two Nishiki bikes. I believe they are from the 80's but not sure. Both are said to be in good operational order. The blue one is $80, the black one $140. The only other difference I can see is that the black one has stem shifters. Does one of these immediately stand out as 'better' than the other? My plan is to treat one of these as a 'light' project bike to 'restore' to a more classic look and take it for longer rides than I currently take with my 3-speed Giant Via commuter that I've been riding for the past 10 years. I can't claim to be a biker, but I sense a growing interest.
Considering this, which bike would you go with? Or neither?
Thanks!
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I'd choose the blue one as it is more original and that's what I prefer and I already have two black bikes. As your intent is to restore to a classic appearance, you are already close to it and it is less money that. You can use that cost difference toward tubes, tires and bar tape. Often , but not always, the down tube shifters will be an indicator of the better bike. In this case the shifters probably aren't a good indicator of that though.
Both bikes look tall though so make sure they fit you.
Both bikes look tall though so make sure they fit you.
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"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
Last edited by Chuck M; 07-06-23 at 03:54 AM.
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Agreed the blue one. I'd choose it even if they were the same price. Going to take effort and investment to straighten out the cockpit on the black one.
60cm looks right. If you're "normally" proportioned, you should be fine at just over 6'.
60cm looks right. If you're "normally" proportioned, you should be fine at just over 6'.
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maybe its just me auld peepers but the blue one appears to be about two cm larger than the black one
"looks" slightly larger than 60cm to my eye
back in the seventies these bikes were on a size regime of 19 1/2", 21", 23", 25"
first thing to do when you go to look would be to verify that size a good one for you, whatever it be
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maybe its just me auld peepers but the blue one appears to be about two cm larger than the black one
"looks" slightly larger than 60cm to my eye
back in the seventies these bikes were on a size regime of 19 1/2", 21", 23", 25"
first thing to do when you go to look would be to verify that size a good one for you, whatever it be
-----
#6
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So the blue one is nicer and cheaper? What was the question?
I can't tell what crank the black one has but the blue one looks a whole lot less molested.
I can't tell what crank the black one has but the blue one looks a whole lot less molested.
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...take along a tape measure. Those do not look like 60cm frames to me. Not sure what your project plan is, but as mentioned by others, jot down a list of all the stuff you'd need to change out to achieve your end product, and then try to establish what those things will cost you, above the price for the bike. If you have a nearby co-p , or a large collection of parts like bars, brake levers, stems, it costs less. Otherwise, if you need to buy a bunch of miscellaneous parts, it starts to add up after a while.
...take along a tape measure. Those do not look like 60cm frames to me. Not sure what your project plan is, but as mentioned by others, jot down a list of all the stuff you'd need to change out to achieve your end product, and then try to establish what those things will cost you, above the price for the bike. If you have a nearby co-p , or a large collection of parts like bars, brake levers, stems, it costs less. Otherwise, if you need to buy a bunch of miscellaneous parts, it starts to add up after a while.
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The black bike is sporting a threadless stem, but also appears to have its original fork - which would have been threaded. That means it's been converted from quill stem to threadless.
If that conversion wasn't done properly using a quill stem extender adapter, I'd almost certainly pass on that one.
If that conversion wasn't done properly using a quill stem extender adapter, I'd almost certainly pass on that one.
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Concur with the others that the blue bike is the better buy but also likely to large since it appears to be a 25 inch frame. A tape measure will let you know for certain and you can also determine stand over clearance in person.
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...for visual reference, this was a 23" Nishiki International that I had here, for a while. Note the much shorter head tube than your examples.
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maybe its just me auld peepers but the blue one appears to be about two cm larger than the black one
"looks" slightly larger than 60cm to my eye
back in the seventies these bikes were on a size regime of 19 1/2", 21", 23", 25"
first thing to do when you go to look would be to verify that size a good one for you, whatever it be
-----
maybe its just me auld peepers but the blue one appears to be about two cm larger than the black one
"looks" slightly larger than 60cm to my eye
back in the seventies these bikes were on a size regime of 19 1/2", 21", 23", 25"
first thing to do when you go to look would be to verify that size a good one for you, whatever it be
-----
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Purchase Complete
Thanks everyone for the input. I bought the bike this morning for the agreed upon $80 (asking was $100). Based on the serial number #KJ12469 and Nishiki Catalog I believe the bike to be a 1981 model. All the components appear to be original and match the catalog except the front derailleur is Suntour Cyclone and rear derailleur is Suntour V-GT Luxe.
As everyone here said, the frame is indeed a 25" frame (not 60cm as the owner said). At an even 6'-0" I can straddle the top tube with both feet flat on the ground, but have absolutely no clear space between the tube and my boys. This morning's test ride of the bike was literally the first time I have sat on a road bike. I was a little nervous about the size being too big, but it felt really nice to me, even if at the upper limits of size for me. Now I just need to get use to those downtube shifters!
Anyway, here's a pic of the Nishiki with the Giant Via commuter that I've been using for about 10 years. I was thinking of getting rid of the Giant, but might be nice to use when putting around town with my 10 year old son.
As everyone here said, the frame is indeed a 25" frame (not 60cm as the owner said). At an even 6'-0" I can straddle the top tube with both feet flat on the ground, but have absolutely no clear space between the tube and my boys. This morning's test ride of the bike was literally the first time I have sat on a road bike. I was a little nervous about the size being too big, but it felt really nice to me, even if at the upper limits of size for me. Now I just need to get use to those downtube shifters!
Anyway, here's a pic of the Nishiki with the Giant Via commuter that I've been using for about 10 years. I was thinking of getting rid of the Giant, but might be nice to use when putting around town with my 10 year old son.
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I have a Nishiki almost identical to the black one and it is a very good bike, but I think you made the right choice. This black one has a bunch of non-original stuff that is worse than the original. I like stem shifters, but that's not what mine came with. Cyclone derailleurs are excellent. Black one probably had Cyclone too, but can't tell from the photos.
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I am most comfortable on a 62-64cm frame and I am just over 6’. If that pic is after adjusted to your proper riding position , then you are good to go. Stand over is about right , even if it is close , as long as you don’t have to lean the bike to one side when you come to a stop and you can put both feet on the ground. Another indicator for sizing a bike is inseam. I have a 35” inseam , so a 25” frame (C-T )is my target.
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Congratulations!!!
That size looks pretty good for you, a tad on the tall. I have the '77 competition, my fit is about the same as yours. I've done some very moderate upgrades.
I think you will like yours for a long time.
my '77, with a leather saddle and Dura Ace 7402 brakes
The '77 with Dura Ace 7400 brake levers and a leather bar wrap, converted to 700c.
That size looks pretty good for you, a tad on the tall. I have the '77 competition, my fit is about the same as yours. I've done some very moderate upgrades.
I think you will like yours for a long time.
my '77, with a leather saddle and Dura Ace 7402 brakes
The '77 with Dura Ace 7400 brake levers and a leather bar wrap, converted to 700c.
Last edited by Mr. 66; 07-15-23 at 09:16 AM.
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It’s nice to see “right” size bikes!😂
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I'm a small apartment dweller so I falsely assumed I could only have one bike at a time. Thanks for setting me straight. Keeping both bikes is a no brainer now lol
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I am most comfortable on a 62-64cm frame and I am just over 6’. If that pic is after adjusted to your proper riding position , then you are good to go. Stand over is about right , even if it is close , as long as you don’t have to lean the bike to one side when you come to a stop and you can put both feet on the ground. Another indicator for sizing a bike is inseam. I have a 35” inseam , so a 25” frame (C-T )is my target.