Bought old road bike, need advice.
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Bought old road bike, need advice.
I bought this old Schwinn World Sport for $27. It was one of the few used road bikes I could find in my size without having to buy new (48 cm) and was cheap so I won't be too upset if it gets stolen. I'm just going to be using it to get around campus and the surrounding areas (Austin). I know it needs new handle bar tape. The brakes work pretty well.
This is what it looks like after I put it together. Does anything look weird?
Also, it has "new" tires but I want to replace them since I think they are a cheap brand and they squeak whenever they rub against something. Any suggestions for affordable brands that are durable?
And the chain is too loose correct? And needs to be replaced? There is a weird clicking noise near the back tire when it's ridden and I think it might be the chain but I'm not sure.
This is what it looks like after I put it together. Does anything look weird?
Also, it has "new" tires but I want to replace them since I think they are a cheap brand and they squeak whenever they rub against something. Any suggestions for affordable brands that are durable?
And the chain is too loose correct? And needs to be replaced? There is a weird clicking noise near the back tire when it's ridden and I think it might be the chain but I'm not sure.
#3
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Take it away. Take it away.
Seriously though classic and vintage or mechanic forum are your best bets for this.
Seriously though classic and vintage or mechanic forum are your best bets for this.
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I believe something is wrong with the cable routing and handlebar setup. The cables on mine do not stick up like that near the handlebars. Also, in general the top of the handlebars should be level, not the drops.
You are missing the Dork Disc on the back wheel. On that bike I would not leave home without it.
I wouldn't change the tires unless they are worn or cracked. They look fine to me in the picture.
A chain replacement and tune up would be worth the money, although that is a friction SIS shifter, and you can tolerate a lot of mis-adjustments and it still works fine, as long as it does not toss the chain.
You are missing the Dork Disc on the back wheel. On that bike I would not leave home without it.
I wouldn't change the tires unless they are worn or cracked. They look fine to me in the picture.
A chain replacement and tune up would be worth the money, although that is a friction SIS shifter, and you can tolerate a lot of mis-adjustments and it still works fine, as long as it does not toss the chain.
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- Weird place to put the downtube shifters (on the stem).
- Did you put the seatpost that low?
- Bar tape is going to cost 1/3 of the price of the bike. Why bother?
- C&V forum
- Did you put the seatpost that low?
- Bar tape is going to cost 1/3 of the price of the bike. Why bother?
- C&V forum
#6
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#7
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Again...lots of older bikes had the shifters there...completely normal for this bike. And bar tape, though $6 at Performance, will do wonders for the feel and overall appearance of the bike.
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My 1985 Panasonic Sport 500 does not look like that, I have owned it since it was new, and I don't remember ever adjust the handlebars or the cable routing. However, a quick google search showes about as many bikes looking like the OPs as they do mine, so I suppose it depended on who was assembling it at the time.
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Well sorry. It was a 50/50 choice between vintage and road and I figured the people on this board would for sure be able to tell me whats wrong with the road bike that I bought. I'm sorry if it's not some fancy $1k+ fijitrekspecialized bike bought new from an expensive LBS with special european parts. I dont know what I am looking for and I don't want to get hurt because something is not right. I don't know how to move a posting or get it moved. Do I just repost in the vintage forum?
It's old and rusty but it's still a road bike...
What do you mean by seat height? The seat should be level with the tops...? I forgot to take that into account when I tightened it but the seat has to stay where it is or brought up just like an inch or two otherwise I cant stand over it comfortably without being on the very tips of my toes. I think I can move the handlebars though.
I'm getting new tape because on one of the drops there is none and its coming off....
$9 isn't really going to bother me. I just can't dish out $500 for a new bike.
What's a Dork Disc?
Thank you for your help, though. =)
It's old and rusty but it's still a road bike...
What do you mean by seat height? The seat should be level with the tops...? I forgot to take that into account when I tightened it but the seat has to stay where it is or brought up just like an inch or two otherwise I cant stand over it comfortably without being on the very tips of my toes. I think I can move the handlebars though.
I'm getting new tape because on one of the drops there is none and its coming off....
$9 isn't really going to bother me. I just can't dish out $500 for a new bike.
What's a Dork Disc?
Thank you for your help, though. =)
Last edited by nerd855; 07-08-09 at 11:03 AM.
#10
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Hi there!
I'm going to move this to C&V so you can get a bit of their perspective.
I'm going to move this to C&V so you can get a bit of their perspective.
__________________
No matter what happens now
You shouldn't be afraid
Because I know today has been the most perfect day I've ever seen.
- Videotape
You shouldn't be afraid
Because I know today has been the most perfect day I've ever seen.
- Videotape
R A D I O H E A D
#11
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I didn't mean to hurt your feelings. We are all just jerks around here.
FWIW I started out riding a 1989 Panasonic AL-7000 which was a sweet alumnium race bike in its day. What you have there is a good starter road bike in my opinion. You will have fun riding it and eventually if you do get something else you will have a bike to practice repairs on. I would think about replacing the brake pads as well if the braking is marginal.
FWIW I started out riding a 1989 Panasonic AL-7000 which was a sweet alumnium race bike in its day. What you have there is a good starter road bike in my opinion. You will have fun riding it and eventually if you do get something else you will have a bike to practice repairs on. I would think about replacing the brake pads as well if the braking is marginal.
#12
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I like your bike. I think you will be fine with just some bar tape. The tires will wear in and stop making noises.
My advice is to get a bottle of Simple Green cleaner and a can of WD-40. Spray the bike down with the Simple Green and clean it up. Then spray anything that moves, the chain, brakes, derailleurs, etc., with WD-40. Wipe the bike down good and ride it. Should be a great ride for your purpose.
My advice is to get a bottle of Simple Green cleaner and a can of WD-40. Spray the bike down with the Simple Green and clean it up. Then spray anything that moves, the chain, brakes, derailleurs, etc., with WD-40. Wipe the bike down good and ride it. Should be a great ride for your purpose.
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Eeeehhhh, I wouldn't use wd40 on the chain and moving parts unless you had the intention of lubing it after. While for household purposes wd is good for lubrication, it's really meant as a water displacer (wd) and cleaner. Spraying it all over your chain will get the squeaks out for now but will contribute to future problems and wear.
#14
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I can't believe that the road guys didn't notice the reason for the sagging chain is that it's on the small chainring and small gear in back. Shift one to the other side, and you'll see it tighten up. The cable routing is a bit odd for me at least, because it's behind the bars, not in front of. No big deal, but it's just for me, aesthetically, i like it in front better. The bars are fine. Good looking bike!
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Yeah I love the road guy that thought it was odd there were downtube shifters on the stem. My first thought without double checking the photos was, "that does seem odd"; it took me a moment to realize he was talking about regular ol' stem shifters.
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Secure that lawyer lever thingie on the front wheel down by the hub. I know they don't get caught in the spokes, just looks dangerous and wrong. Cleaned up and with some new bar tape and you've got yourself a sweet riding little bike. then go drop yourself some ignorant smug ******* butts. or don't, they can all go f themselves.
edit: jesus, can even say *******?
edit: jesus, can even say *******?
#17
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What do you mean by seat height? The seat should be level with the tops...? I forgot to take that into account when I tightened it but the seat has to stay where it is or brought up just like an inch or two otherwise I cant stand over it comfortably without being on the very tips of my toes. I think I can move the handlebars though.
When you stand with your feet on the ground, it shouldn't matter how high the seat is; as long as you have clearance between the top-tube of the bike and your crotch you are fine.
I'm getting new tape because on one of the drops there is none and its coming off....
$9 isn't really going to bother me. I just can't dish out $500 for a new bike.
Cool.
What's a Dork Disc?
He was joking.
When you stand with your feet on the ground, it shouldn't matter how high the seat is; as long as you have clearance between the top-tube of the bike and your crotch you are fine.
I'm getting new tape because on one of the drops there is none and its coming off....
$9 isn't really going to bother me. I just can't dish out $500 for a new bike.
Cool.
What's a Dork Disc?
He was joking.
The clicking sound might just be the freewheel.
Don't use WD40 on the chain. If you have no oil, just use vegetable oil--seriously.
#18
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yeah WD-40 is not a good idea, on a large charity ride recently, I felt like saying to a lot of people after hearing their drivetrain "you like wd-40 don't you?" it's ok for cleaning but make sure you follow up with some proper chain lube. the clicking from your rear wheel, could be from a whole host of things, hub, freewheel, spokes, chain, rim, tire, brakes, frame(are all possibilities). try to narrow it down and clean everyhing and re lube. You'll learn a lot about bikes in the process. that's a nice bike, if everything is adjusted properly, Just built up a nearly identical frame for a friend and he's quite happy with it. Enjoy your bike and ride in good health!
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Wow, thanks guys.
So move it to the one that's second closest to the outside of the bike? In the back where all of the gears are like in a row together? Sorry I dont know terminology. XD
If there is something wrong with the cables or whatnot they should find out about it during a tune up, right?
I think the breaks are okay. I stop almost immediately when I pull them (I've only used the ones where the tops are) and I've only ridden it twice like down the street and back. I am kinda weary about the safety since I put it together myself.
If I unscrew that thing circled in blue to wrap the bars it should screw back and work properly afterwards, right? Or do I not need to unscrew it at all, its a tight fit between the brakes and the bars though. Also, do I need to get that stuff off thats left from the old tape?
What are these things?
Is that what those things are? How do I secure them?
What sort of lube should I use? I dont think I have any wd40.
I can't believe that the road guys didn't notice the reason for the sagging chain is that it's on the small chainring and small gear in back. Shift one to the other side
If there is something wrong with the cables or whatnot they should find out about it during a tune up, right?
I think the breaks are okay. I stop almost immediately when I pull them (I've only used the ones where the tops are) and I've only ridden it twice like down the street and back. I am kinda weary about the safety since I put it together myself.
If I unscrew that thing circled in blue to wrap the bars it should screw back and work properly afterwards, right? Or do I not need to unscrew it at all, its a tight fit between the brakes and the bars though. Also, do I need to get that stuff off thats left from the old tape?
What are these things?
Secure that lawyer lever thingie on the front wheel down by the hub.
Eeeehhhh, I wouldn't use wd40 on the chain and moving parts unless you had the intention of lubing it after.
#20
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This thread makes me wonder if I accidentally got high. Non-aero brake levers and stem shifters are trippin' people out!!!!!
If it was my bike I'd get a new seat and new bar tape ASAP. I'd wait 'til the tires wore out to replace 'em. I have cheep Michelins on one of my wheelsets that squeal when I lean, but I try not to let that bother me.
If it was my bike I'd get a new seat and new bar tape ASAP. I'd wait 'til the tires wore out to replace 'em. I have cheep Michelins on one of my wheelsets that squeal when I lean, but I try not to let that bother me.
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I'd probably tilt the bars up a tad. You can clean the old bar tape adhesive with nail polish remover.
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When you stand with your feet on the ground, it shouldn't matter how high the seat is; as long as you have clearance between the top-tube of the bike and your crotch you are fine.
If it was my bike I'd get a new seat and new bar tape ASAP.
#23
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To secure the safety tabs, just spin them up, the hole in the tab sits inside the screw that's visible inside the lower fork.
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Ok, so what are these safety/lawyer tabs all about? Never heard of them before.
IMHO, the very best investment you could make on this bike would be to take it in to your LBS and ask them to tune it up for you. Should run around $25 and will likely include cable replacement, chain lubing, brake adjustment, etc. If you buy handlebar tape there, they may even put it on for you. In other words, everything you're asking about. You might also ask if someone could help you get fitted for it, although ifthey want to charge extra for this, it may not be worth it. This will give you a very rideable, safe bike. From there you can begin riding more, and as you ride more, you'll be better able to decide what upgrades to make, if any. You can also begin learning about bike maintenance so you never have to pay that $25 again. The point is, its easier to learn to fix a bike if you have a working one to begin with, rather than something which needs all kinds of adjustments.
My two cents, anyway.
IMHO, the very best investment you could make on this bike would be to take it in to your LBS and ask them to tune it up for you. Should run around $25 and will likely include cable replacement, chain lubing, brake adjustment, etc. If you buy handlebar tape there, they may even put it on for you. In other words, everything you're asking about. You might also ask if someone could help you get fitted for it, although ifthey want to charge extra for this, it may not be worth it. This will give you a very rideable, safe bike. From there you can begin riding more, and as you ride more, you'll be better able to decide what upgrades to make, if any. You can also begin learning about bike maintenance so you never have to pay that $25 again. The point is, its easier to learn to fix a bike if you have a working one to begin with, rather than something which needs all kinds of adjustments.
My two cents, anyway.
#25
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Of course here in C&V we may have opinions, but we aren't freaked out by such things.