VintageSteelEU

Freewheels have the main grip (be it splined or two-pronged) on it's body to unscrew it from the hub and around that there is an additional threaded ring, typically with two holes for a pin wrench (or groves for a special Suntour tool with New Winner freewheels). This unscrews clockwise. In some freewheels this lock ring can be hidden underneath the smallest sprocket.
Some newly made, crap freewheels can't be overhauled. Most of the vintage ones can be opened, cleaned, greased / lubricated. Bearing balls can be replaced if they are not in a good condition. There are two sets of bearing balls, one directly under the lockring, usually with some very thin shims underneath. You can remove one of them to reduce or get rid of any play in the freewheel. If there is some play in the freewheel, I would imagine it could help the lockring to gradually unscrew and cause the freewheel to come apart similarly to what you described? Just a theory, in case of the one I had that shattered it was just poor manufacturing quality of the sprocket / freewheel body. But it could be a good idea to have a look at the freewheel that failed you. If the lockring is loose and you had bearing balls scattering all over the place, you've got the culprit.
In case of Suntour New Winner freewheel you might need a special tool to remove the outer / lockring. Also, if I remember correctly, these do not have shims.

Another thing I could think of would be incompatibility of freewheel and hub (different threads), so if you see the threads on the hub have been stripped, that would be why. Though I don't think that kind of failure would cause the freewheel to shift enough to result in a gap wide wnough to accomodate the chain width (as shown in the photo you posted).

Oh, it might be worth while to keep the old freewheel for parts. Especially if it's something like Suntour Perfect or New Winner. Just like with a casette, it's possible to construct a freewheel with custom sprocket sizes if you wish so. Even if the freewheel is not usable as a whole, it's quite likely you might be able to salvage several sprockets and spacers.

EVlove

EDIT - No longer available, sorry

Decent condition, will put a full set of pics in my gallery. Usual marks from use, including most recently when it was clamped way past the max. mark in a 27.2 frame Which is how I found it. No gouges. Pivoting action is tight on one side but does move. One bolt is stuck in the cradle part, I'm sure it would come out with some persuasion if needed.



Ideally looking to trade for a similar condition 27.2 plain seatpost (i.e. old school 22.2 tapered end) but open to hear what you have. I would consider a saddle clamp to fit an Ideale type 6 (two wires per side but not the same as Brooks unfortunately), a Normandy HF rear hub, a 48T 110 BCD chain ring, a pair of decent hoods to fit Shimano 600 or Weinmann levers, or even basic tools (14 or 15 mm cone wrenches, BB lockring wrench, headset wrench).

I'm fairly new around here, this is my first trade. I'm near Lowell MA if anybody is local.

unworthy1

shoot me a PM to discuss, but I will be out of town soon and until Nov. 6 so best bet is PM after that date

Roger M

ISO:

A bit of a longshot, but I am looking for a single dustcap for a Zeus pedal. It will have Zeus branding on it.

If anyone has a spare floating around, let me know what you need in trade. Thanks in advance.

Roger

merziac

Paging @tmnguuyen

JohnDThompson 

FWIW, it you're not committed to the Zeus branding, the dustcap thread is the same as Campagnolo, MKS Sylvan, Gipiemme, Ofmega, etc., so dustcaps from any of those would fit and at least keep the bearings clean.

Robvolz 

Someone was looking for a 3ttt seatpost.

this came off a Colnago post 1977 after Ernie had a spat with Cino and only used 3ttt after that.

nicely un-anodized. Could use a polish. The flutes came black but could be redone in your favorite color (puce?)

is this what you were looking for?
robert
portland

jdawginsc 

That’s purty!

merziac

Mi

merziac

The bike it was for got moved along, pretty cool but 26.2. .

And paging @tmgnuuyen

tmnguuyen 

Here is an Ideale clamp for your consideration.

Thanks

merziac

He's looking for 2 rails per side like a Brooks B66.

EVlove

Sorry, that's not what I need. As mentioned, the saddle is a type 6, two wires per side. Here's a current ebay auction but that one is chromed and NOS: https://www.ebay.com/itm/293763953160 Used and galvanized would do me fine.

EVlove

Posting at the same time. Exactly. Does anybody know if a Brooks clamp would work? I got a type 80 from the same seller that did come with its clamp, thank goodness, because as it turns out it doesn't follow the Brooks "standard." The rails aren't even parallel.

merziac

Don't know and not sure if I have ever seen an Ideale 2 rail.

Seems like they cross pollinate on everything else but of course the 2 rail standard has been so far a long, long time.

Pics of the saddle in question plz.

merziac

Looks like the Ideale's have a bend in them by design. Those rails have "some" give in them and could probably be forced into compliance with a Brooks clamp but they can be hard to come by as well.

That efbay seller is delusional on pricing IMO.

EVlove

Well, that ebay seller appears to have a hoard of them but at $110 each shipped to the US, no thanks.

Gladly


Found on CL, off a Motobecane tandem. Left is type 80, right is type 6. I was basically after the type 80 and the front and back derailleurs that were part of the deal. Didn't realize that the clamp could be an issue, most likely it's still in a bin somewhere in the seller's garage, or in the trash by now. Sigh.

Anyway, the saddles cleaned up nicely and my wife (who rides very little) now wants to give the type 6 a try. I have a feeling she will hate it--she's currently on the cushiest, gelliest plastic Walmart contraption--but ah well.

And I also need a 27.2 to 22.2 post to mount the type 80, but that's easy.

EVlove

Gratuitous shot from above after cleaning and treating the leather. Not museum pretty but quite alright. I'm just the tiniest bit annoyed that only hers has the metal Ideale tag

EVlove

All I know right now is that I have three different designs of SR two rail posts and the type 80 really doesn't match any of them securely. That wire is 6.6mm diameter and not easily bent!

On the type 6, the wires are 5.6mm and not parallel left and right, nor top and bottom.

merziac

Well as we know, supporting and encouraging any enthusiasm from the better half is always a good call, especially with bikes, regardless of the outcome and I wholeheartedly support hers on this.

Again, no expert and it may be a PITA as well but for this experiment I would try and fit a 2 rail clamp on the bottom rails for a trial run.

You may have to slit some tubing for a shim if they are smaller than a 2 rail as they appear to be.

So you did not acquire the whole tandem?

merziac

Some times you can use zip ties to get them on a seat post, then cut them off when the SP clamps are tight, you may have to use multiple zip ties.

I would not try to bend any rails.

EVlove

Was already parted out. Not that I would have been interested. I left behind a tired frame, the pedals (Lyotard but rusted) and the stem shifters.

merziac

Ahh, well you sure scored on the saddles despite the clamp quandary.

cudak888 

ISO a wingnut for a Schwinn Twin-Stik shifter, like the one below. Had someone unceremoniously strip the crap out of one.




-Kurt

cudak888 

Can you measure the rail spacing? I'm curious now - I have one of these Ideale clamps and probably have a Brooks dual-rail piece around here somewhere. Would be interesting to see if the teeth line up.

-Kurt