Want to start Road cycling where to start? which bike?
#52
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You would be wise to come in to the LBS during a slow time (~90 minutes before a weeknight closing) and have them set you up on a trainer with the candidate bike. Just like you'd ride it. Try it for 30 minutes or more, and see if the adjustments make sense to you and feel okay. Hand positions, elbow bend, hinged forward at the pelvis, flat back, neck neutral, weight off of hands, etc. Make sure that the fit works for your body condition. That would be a wise start. Don't buy anything without going through this with an experienced person observing and adjusting for you.
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Still trying to decide this very much no fun lol. So many choices. I even checked out a Giant Defy 1 which is full carbon and has Ultegra
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Personally I wouldn't bother with the Defy Advanced 1 as the only difference beyond colors is Ultegra, and the Advanced 3 is too much of a step down for the price (I paid less than half that for my 2017 Contend SL Disc 2 which is pretty similarly specced except for frame material). Maybe if the Advanced 1 had Ultegra hydraulic brakes, but nope, I'm surprised Giant cheaped out and put their proprietary brakes on it too. And some folks around here advise avoiding press-fit bottom brackets because they are prone to creaking over time.
If you like the Defy line and the shop, then go with your gut! If you still need second opinions, I found this review interesting on a couple notes: https://www.bikechaser.com.au/news/g...fy-advanced-2/
- Although the all-new ‘Conduct Hydraulic Disc Brake System’ which sits on the handlebars has proven to be a little controversial.
It means you have mmechanical (sic) levers that are connected to a reservoir. Because this ‘reservoir’ sits on the handlebar, it limits what computer connections and lights you can use, in addition to the flexibility you have of changing out handlebars. - I’m having to work a little harder up the front, side-by-side with my rotating partners.
The relaxed geometry has me sitting up and hitting more wind than my normal road bike, where I’m normally in an aggressive/lower position - Rolling around the roundabout at the bottom of the hill, the Defy feels like it needs more effort to get around.
- In fact, if I made a scale of endurance bikes with the top almost falling into race performance bikes, and the bottom almost falling into gravel bikes, I’d say this is more heading towards gravel. It’s super relaxed and compliant on the harsh terrain.
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The Defy will not handle as sharply as a bike designed to have sharper handling .... it also won't beat up the rider quite so much. That is precisely the trade-off when getting an endurance bike---a little energy goes into shock absorbing which might have otherwise gone into propulsion. But the differences are minimal--unless you are on the AAA++ ride you won't be getting dropped because of your bike. As for riding position, you can put the bars as far below the seat as you like.
But ... if a person wants razor-sharp handling and maximum acceleration, one should buy a race bike and suffer over every bump and ripple--but at a higher rate of speed, however marginally.
But ... if a person wants razor-sharp handling and maximum acceleration, one should buy a race bike and suffer over every bump and ripple--but at a higher rate of speed, however marginally.
#57
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A lot of new riders sell their bikes after a year or two, either to upgrade, or just to give up.
A discounted major brand such as Specialized carbon bikes, Cannondale (CAAD, Evo..) road bikes..... with 105 group set will give you very good resale value in a year or two.
A discounted major brand such as Specialized carbon bikes, Cannondale (CAAD, Evo..) road bikes..... with 105 group set will give you very good resale value in a year or two.
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The Defy will not handle as sharply as a bike designed to have sharper handling .... it also won't beat up the rider quite so much. That is precisely the trade-off when getting an endurance bike---a little energy goes into shock absorbing which might have otherwise gone into propulsion. But the differences are minimal--unless you are on the AAA++ ride you won't be getting dropped because of your bike. As for riding position, you can put the bars as far below the seat as you like.
But ... if a person wants razor-sharp handling and maximum acceleration, one should buy a race bike and suffer over every bump and ripple--but at a higher rate of speed, however marginally.
But ... if a person wants razor-sharp handling and maximum acceleration, one should buy a race bike and suffer over every bump and ripple--but at a higher rate of speed, however marginally.
TCR ADVANCED 2 what about this one???/
FrameAdvanced-Grade Composite
ForkAdvanced-Grade Composite, Alloy OverDrive Steerer
ShockN/A
HandlebarGiant Contact
StemGiant Connect
SeatpostGiant Variant, composite
SaddleContact (forward)
PedalsN/A
ShiftersShimano 105
Front DerailleurShimano 105
Rear DerailleurShimano 105
BrakesShimano 105
#61
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The TCR is Giant's racing model and I have never heard from an unsatisfied owner .... if a full on race bike is what you want, the TCR would be one of them.
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Hey
A lot of new riders sell their bikes after a year or two, either to upgrade, or just to give up.
A discounted major brand such as Specialized carbon bikes, Cannondale (CAAD, Evo..) road bikes..... with 105 group set will give you very good resale value in a year or two.
A discounted major brand such as Specialized carbon bikes, Cannondale (CAAD, Evo..) road bikes..... with 105 group set will give you very good resale value in a year or two.
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The Emonda is a good deal. Note that it's rim brakes versus disc. As a new rider, disc will be slightly more forgiving of mistakes, but either is fine.
The only other major difference to keep in mind with the Emonda is that you won't be getting a manufacturer's warranty or local bike shop relationship. As a new rider, both of those things could be valuable to have (and arguably make up for a ~$300 price difference.)
The only other major difference to keep in mind with the Emonda is that you won't be getting a manufacturer's warranty or local bike shop relationship. As a new rider, both of those things could be valuable to have (and arguably make up for a ~$300 price difference.)
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hey
The Emonda is a good deal. Note that it's rim brakes versus disc. As a new rider, disc will be slightly more forgiving of mistakes, but either is fine.
The only other major difference to keep in mind with the Emonda is that you won't be getting a manufacturer's warranty or local bike shop relationship. As a new rider, both of those things could be valuable to have (and arguably make up for a ~$300 price difference.)
The only other major difference to keep in mind with the Emonda is that you won't be getting a manufacturer's warranty or local bike shop relationship. As a new rider, both of those things could be valuable to have (and arguably make up for a ~$300 price difference.)
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You could probably walk away with the Emonda for an even grand. Any bike shop will happily service, fit, etc. the bike for you. I'm just saying, you might be more warmly welcomed if you just dropped $1500 on a new bike and gear there recently...
If price is a huge factor for you (and if my own experience as a young dude in the military is any indication, IT IS!) then the Emonda would be a great find.
If price is a huge factor for you (and if my own experience as a young dude in the military is any indication, IT IS!) then the Emonda would be a great find.
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If you buy a biker at a shop, you can usually expect (or negotiate for) at least free tune-ups and such .... but if you bring any bike to any shop worth frequenting, they will do thee work because bikes are bikes and money is money.
Any shop which wouldn't service a bike bought elsewhere isn't worth your time.
make sure the Emonda fits ... also ask about the pedals. No sense paying for the pedals if you have to buy new shoes and cleats to use them. Maybe he will sell his cleats as well, or keep the pedals and cut the price a tiny bit?
Any shop which wouldn't service a bike bought elsewhere isn't worth your time.
make sure the Emonda fits ... also ask about the pedals. No sense paying for the pedals if you have to buy new shoes and cleats to use them. Maybe he will sell his cleats as well, or keep the pedals and cut the price a tiny bit?
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Hello
But Giant even on that TCR I was looking at has 105 then another has Ultegra. Brakes on both are Giant Conduct and not 105 or Ultegra brakes not sure why but I guess save some money cut cost ?? I rather have disc brakes because I saw if you went to carbon wheels it's easier then rim brakes
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Hello
If you buy a biker at a shop, you can usually expect (or negotiate for) at least free tune-ups and such .... but if you bring any bike to any shop worth frequenting, they will do thee work because bikes are bikes and money is money.
Any shop which wouldn't service a bike bought elsewhere isn't worth your time.
make sure the Emonda fits ... also ask about the pedals. No sense paying for the pedals if you have to buy new shoes and cleats to use them. Maybe he will sell his cleats as well, or keep the pedals and cut the price a tiny bit?
Any shop which wouldn't service a bike bought elsewhere isn't worth your time.
make sure the Emonda fits ... also ask about the pedals. No sense paying for the pedals if you have to buy new shoes and cleats to use them. Maybe he will sell his cleats as well, or keep the pedals and cut the price a tiny bit?
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TCR is race geometry---short wheelbase, head tube,and steeper tube angles compared to Contend/Defy. Smappier handling, a little stiffer, a little less comfortable for the other-than-insanely-fit-and-flexible for a long ride. It rerally depends on the kind of riding you plan to do.
As for the Giant brakes ... no they aren't 105, but they are not bad, from what i hear. The 105 hydro brake levers have a fluid reservoir in the hand grip, from what I understand, so the shifter is big and bulky. The Giant Conduct brakes use a mechanical linkage and a standard 105 shift-brake lever (not hydro) to actuate pistons in a reservoir on the handlebar.
I have a Fuji Sportiv 1.0 LE (sort of like a top-end Contend) with Spyre mech discs (less good than hydro but good enough) and CF wheels (because I can, with disc brakes) it has a 105 group except for the crank set which is FSA. I have Zero complaints. It shifts excellently, it has never given me the slightest trouble, and I bet if i covered the decal no one would ever notice.
As for the Giant brakes ... no they aren't 105, but they are not bad, from what i hear. The 105 hydro brake levers have a fluid reservoir in the hand grip, from what I understand, so the shifter is big and bulky. The Giant Conduct brakes use a mechanical linkage and a standard 105 shift-brake lever (not hydro) to actuate pistons in a reservoir on the handlebar.
I have a Fuji Sportiv 1.0 LE (sort of like a top-end Contend) with Spyre mech discs (less good than hydro but good enough) and CF wheels (because I can, with disc brakes) it has a 105 group except for the crank set which is FSA. I have Zero complaints. It shifts excellently, it has never given me the slightest trouble, and I bet if i covered the decal no one would ever notice.
#71
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Hello
TCR is race geometry---short wheelbase, head tube,and steeper tube angles compared to Contend/Defy. Smappier handling, a little stiffer, a little less comfortable for the other-than-insanely-fit-and-flexible for a long ride. It rerally depends on the kind of riding you plan to do.
As for the Giant brakes ... no they aren't 105, but they are not bad, from what i hear. The 105 hydro brake levers have a fluid reservoir in the hand grip, from what I understand, so the shifter is big and bulky. The Giant Conduct brakes use a mechanical linkage and a standard 105 shift-brake lever (not hydro) to actuate pistons in a reservoir on the handlebar.
I have a Fuji Sportiv 1.0 LE (sort of like a top-end Contend) with Spyre mech discs (less good than hydro but good enough) and CF wheels (because I can, with disc brakes) it has a 105 group except for the crank set which is FSA. I have Zero complaints. It shifts excellently, it has never given me the slightest trouble, and I bet if i covered the decal no one would ever notice.
As for the Giant brakes ... no they aren't 105, but they are not bad, from what i hear. The 105 hydro brake levers have a fluid reservoir in the hand grip, from what I understand, so the shifter is big and bulky. The Giant Conduct brakes use a mechanical linkage and a standard 105 shift-brake lever (not hydro) to actuate pistons in a reservoir on the handlebar.
I have a Fuji Sportiv 1.0 LE (sort of like a top-end Contend) with Spyre mech discs (less good than hydro but good enough) and CF wheels (because I can, with disc brakes) it has a 105 group except for the crank set which is FSA. I have Zero complaints. It shifts excellently, it has never given me the slightest trouble, and I bet if i covered the decal no one would ever notice.
I really dont know where to start ? I want a pretty quick bike prefer full carbon and disc brakes. I want a bike where I can go far put some miles on it.
#72
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Hey good afternoon
I know this is a race bike but can it like a normal endurance bike like on long rides ? I like the TCR advance disc and it had Ultegra components
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Some bikes are probably going to be more comfortable for some riders for long rides.
Bikes with race-geometry frames tend to put the rider in a lower, more stretched-out posture. Riders need to have strong legs, strong cores, and very flexible backs, necks, and shoulders to ride a long time in the bent-over race posture. if you do, no problem. Also, you could take that "race geometry" frame and add a lot of spacers and an upturned stem and raise the bars up and move them back. The bike would still have very quick handling and a short wheel base.
Also race frames tend to be less compliant. When you pedal, they transfer maximum power to the rear wheel. Also, when you ht a bump, pebblwe or tiny crack in the pavement, the bike transfers that energy right into you, the rider ... in the form of pain.
However, if your body is strong enough, it can absorb the shocks.
The big problem with a race bike is that as soon as you get tired, everything which makes it work makes it hurt. When your legs get tired, they cannot flex to absorb the bumps so swell, and they cannot hold as much weight. That puts more stress on the core ... and when your lower back starts aching, you will tend to put more weight on your bars, which hurts the shoulders, neck, and hands. Also you might tend to lock your elbows, which really hurts over time.
As you try to sit more upright to rest your lower back and shoulders, you are putting more wait on the saddle, which was designed to be ridden in the long and low position, and won't offer proper support for a rider sitting more upright---which means more pain.
If you are fit enough to ride as far as you want in the race posture, then a race bike can be as comfortable as any other bike. Pro racers sometimes spend six or seven hours in the saddle. of course, they expect to be in pain through much of a race sometimes ...
it is possible you could set up the TCR to be more comfortable on long rides. I have an upward-angled stem on my Cervelo R-clone, and an inch-and-a-half of spacers. However .... I can definitely feel the added strain at the end of a long ride compared to my more upright, endurance-frame bikes. Again, it all depends on Your physical capacities.
Your best bet might to be to buy the bike you really want, and if in a while you find you want something else too, get that too. But if you are going to buy a bike ... buy a bike you really like. Chances are you will enjoy riding it even if it takes a while to tweak it to fit the way you need it.
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Hows it going ?
You could probably walk away with the Emonda for an even grand. Any bike shop will happily service, fit, etc. the bike for you. I'm just saying, you might be more warmly welcomed if you just dropped $1500 on a new bike and gear there recently...
If price is a huge factor for you (and if my own experience as a young dude in the military is any indication, IT IS!) then the Emonda would be a great find.
If price is a huge factor for you (and if my own experience as a young dude in the military is any indication, IT IS!) then the Emonda would be a great find.