Doing my first Campy bottom bracket overhaul. Advice?
10-30-12, 11:14 AM
#1
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Doing my first Campy bottom bracket overhaul. Advice?
I want to overhaul the bottom bracket on my early 80's Colnago Nuovo Mexico. How do I go about removing the chainrings (double), cranks, and bottom bracket? My past experience with overhauling a bottom bracket involved bikes with cottered cranks. Which side do I start on and what should I be on the lookout for in terms of possible trouble steps along the way? It has Campy components.
TSAPP
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10-30-12, 11:22 AM
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1. you know you are dealing with some quite expensive parts!
take your time and listen to our advise!
tools- to do a good job without damaging your goodies you will need at least
thinwall 15mm socket
a good quality crank puller
the wrench for removing the locknut on the non drive side BB
angled circlip plyers.
remove the dustcaps and mail them to me-they are of no use to you
after the crank nuts are off inspect the pulling threads...
you want to be sure the puller threads all the way down in the crankarm before you pull.
remover the puller,
I use a heatgun to heat up the area-careful not to heat your paint.
its best to try them warm -much less risk.
when they are nice and toasty grease the tool threads and put it in and try to remove them-should come right off.
get the tool out of the cranks and let everything cool down.
with the correct bicycle wwrench loosen the big locknut,
you should be able to turn the non drive side cup with the circlip plyers, pull out the spindle and plastic cup,
there is no reason to pull the drive side cup unless there is a problem in there.
now is the best time to ream out the seatpost tube of rust.
do not use grease on the tapers!
I put on the driveside crank when I adjust the BB cups, I can get it very well adjusted this way.
I use marine grease-but there is plenty of opinions on what grease to use...
take your time and listen to our advise!
tools- to do a good job without damaging your goodies you will need at least
thinwall 15mm socket
a good quality crank puller
the wrench for removing the locknut on the non drive side BB
angled circlip plyers.
remove the dustcaps and mail them to me-they are of no use to you
after the crank nuts are off inspect the pulling threads...
you want to be sure the puller threads all the way down in the crankarm before you pull.
remover the puller,
I use a heatgun to heat up the area-careful not to heat your paint.
its best to try them warm -much less risk.
when they are nice and toasty grease the tool threads and put it in and try to remove them-should come right off.
get the tool out of the cranks and let everything cool down.
with the correct bicycle wwrench loosen the big locknut,
you should be able to turn the non drive side cup with the circlip plyers, pull out the spindle and plastic cup,
there is no reason to pull the drive side cup unless there is a problem in there.
now is the best time to ream out the seatpost tube of rust.
do not use grease on the tapers!
I put on the driveside crank when I adjust the BB cups, I can get it very well adjusted this way.
I use marine grease-but there is plenty of opinions on what grease to use...
Last edited by puchfinnland; 10-30-12 at 02:34 PM.
10-30-12, 11:23 AM
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Doesn't matter which side you start with. Get a crank puller. Don't attempt this without a proper crank puller.
Grease the puller threads before you screw it into the crank arm. Remove the Dust Caps from the crank arms, Pull one side then pull the other. You will pull the Drive side with the chainrings still on it.
Once the crank is off remove the Lockring from the Non-Drive Side, then the adjustable cup, spindle and bearings. Clean it all and replace bearings as necessary and re-assemble. Or yank the Fixed Cup if you're replacing the whole shebang with a cartridge. Fixed Cup removal isn't too hard, just build the Sheldon Brown tool
Grease the puller threads before you screw it into the crank arm. Remove the Dust Caps from the crank arms, Pull one side then pull the other. You will pull the Drive side with the chainrings still on it.
Once the crank is off remove the Lockring from the Non-Drive Side, then the adjustable cup, spindle and bearings. Clean it all and replace bearings as necessary and re-assemble. Or yank the Fixed Cup if you're replacing the whole shebang with a cartridge. Fixed Cup removal isn't too hard, just build the Sheldon Brown tool
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10-30-12, 11:32 AM
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The BIG HAMMER and BIG Screwdriver stay in the drawer on this one....reserve those for the Huffy's Murry's and Magna's! Easy does it....if in doubt, back off, LOTS of expert experience around here (just don't ask me...I'll be the one swinging the hammer!)
10-30-12, 11:35 AM
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come on now, its just a Campy BB... its not the crown jewels.
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10-30-12, 11:40 AM
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I don't usually type in caps, but...MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE WASHER before you thread the crank puller into your crank arms. Failure to remove the washer when removing crank arms may be the #1 cause of ruined crank arms. If you don't remove the washer, you will likely strip the threads on the inside of the crank arm.
This should help, too: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...racket-service
This should help, too: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...racket-service
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'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
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10-30-12, 11:43 AM
#7
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10-30-12, 11:45 AM
#8
car dodger
No need to remove the chainrings, just pull the crank w/ them still attached.
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10-30-12, 11:56 AM
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Hey be sure to remove the crank bolt washers.
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10-30-12, 11:58 AM
#11
car dodger
But be sure to put them back in when installing the cranks later.
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"I've consulted my sources and I'm pretty sure your derailleur does not exist"
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10-30-12, 12:06 PM
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Once you remove the crank arm with the puller, be sure to thread the driver back out before you remove the puller from the crank threads. It seems like my Park puller driver gets stuck in the square taper if I try to remove the puller before backing off the driver. This only happens with when I use it on Campy cranks.
10-30-12, 12:06 PM
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forget about those crank bolt washers!,
just make sure to remove those black round discs under the crank bolts.
just make sure to remove those black round discs under the crank bolts.
10-30-12, 12:17 PM
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Do you have some good tools, TSAPP? Hex wrench for the chain ring bolts? Crank puller? Lock ring wrench/spanner? A pin tool for the adjustable cup? Would be nice to invest in some good quality tools if you don't already have them.
10-30-12, 12:25 PM
#16
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You also need to remove the things sitting on top of the washers... I think they call these "crank bolts".
I was in a hurry once and...
I was in a hurry once and...
10-30-12, 12:30 PM
#17
Banned
The Proper<C> tools include #712, for the lockring , 712/1 for the adjustable cup pin face spanner.
[other ends are 32mm for the headset.
leave the fixed cup in place unless it got pitted..
[other ends are 32mm for the headset.
leave the fixed cup in place unless it got pitted..
10-30-12, 12:49 PM
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Hmmmm... what else do you have to watch out for......
I know!, check to see if the crank bolts are steel or not (magnet test). If they are Al or Ti, you cannot use them to install the crankset back on to the BB spindle after you remove them as they cannot take the tension and torque needed to properly "bed down" the crankset on to the spindle tapers. They will most likely strip or break.
You will need a steel bolt to do so and then, just used the non-steel bolts as "retainer" bolts if you want to keep them on the bike. It's unusual for people to use non-steel bolts, but you never know of the previous owner (if you bought this as a used bike) was a serious "weight weenie".......
Personally, I would not bother to reinstall Aluminum ot Ti bolts as the minimal amount of weight savings do not offset the possible danger of the bolts failing on you one day on such a critical part of the bike.
Chombi
I know!, check to see if the crank bolts are steel or not (magnet test). If they are Al or Ti, you cannot use them to install the crankset back on to the BB spindle after you remove them as they cannot take the tension and torque needed to properly "bed down" the crankset on to the spindle tapers. They will most likely strip or break.
You will need a steel bolt to do so and then, just used the non-steel bolts as "retainer" bolts if you want to keep them on the bike. It's unusual for people to use non-steel bolts, but you never know of the previous owner (if you bought this as a used bike) was a serious "weight weenie".......
Personally, I would not bother to reinstall Aluminum ot Ti bolts as the minimal amount of weight savings do not offset the possible danger of the bolts failing on you one day on such a critical part of the bike.
Chombi
10-30-12, 02:18 PM
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10-30-12, 02:24 PM
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It is also important to properly tighten everything when putting it back together. If you over tighten the lock ring you will cause permanent damage. Go to the Park Tools site for detailed instructions.
10-30-12, 06:41 PM
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This is way too scary even for Halloween!
You've got to be kidding me! I'm off to my local bike shop tomorrow.
tsapp
tsapp
10-31-12, 12:43 PM
#24
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Really, it's not as bad as that. Just be methodical, double check yourself, and save the beer for after you're done.
10-31-12, 01:06 PM
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It's only really scary if you find one of those mummified rats (or birds) in there like some have......or maybe a black widow spider or two.....
Chombi
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