Long Distance Touring on Gravel Bike vs. Endurance Bike?
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Long Distance Touring on Gravel Bike vs. Endurance Bike?
Hi all,
I've been reading up a ton on this, but still a little unsure of what to do. I'm interested in getting (one) new bike to use as a long-distance bikepacking (read: using hotels not campsites) bike. Specifically, I am planning to ride from the Canadian border down the PNW coast to the Mexican border next summer.
Where I've landed is the middle ground that is a Specialized Roubaix Comp vs. a Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon. It seems to me that the Diverge is a little more versatile, even if the bulk of long rides like this will be on pavement. I've looked at other offerings but these seem like the two that fit best. They are the same price, and obviously the Diverge has wider tire clearance while the Roubaix is more of a "performance race bike" that can also take bumpy roads and such.
Any opinions out there from someone who has self-supported on such a trip? I won't be packing heavily, but it will be a three-week trip or so and I'll have to put a frame pack, seat post pack, and handlebar pack probably at the least. Thanks in advance for any thoughts!
I've been reading up a ton on this, but still a little unsure of what to do. I'm interested in getting (one) new bike to use as a long-distance bikepacking (read: using hotels not campsites) bike. Specifically, I am planning to ride from the Canadian border down the PNW coast to the Mexican border next summer.
Where I've landed is the middle ground that is a Specialized Roubaix Comp vs. a Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon. It seems to me that the Diverge is a little more versatile, even if the bulk of long rides like this will be on pavement. I've looked at other offerings but these seem like the two that fit best. They are the same price, and obviously the Diverge has wider tire clearance while the Roubaix is more of a "performance race bike" that can also take bumpy roads and such.
Any opinions out there from someone who has self-supported on such a trip? I won't be packing heavily, but it will be a three-week trip or so and I'll have to put a frame pack, seat post pack, and handlebar pack probably at the least. Thanks in advance for any thoughts!
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Hi there- mid 40's; I've done multi-day (like over-weekend) long distance rides but not a trip of this scope.
Have been a marathoner over many years but looking to get into a different endurance category here.
5'10, 170 lb, in good shape but need a different bike than what I have to train with this year.
Have been a marathoner over many years but looking to get into a different endurance category here.
5'10, 170 lb, in good shape but need a different bike than what I have to train with this year.
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I see the Roubaix as a road bike. A great road bike. But I'd go for the Diverge for larger tire possibilities and comfort as well as flexibility. I believe it has more mounting points as well.
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One not on your list that I would high recommend is the Trek Domane.
They are an endurance geometry, with 35c tires and can fit up to a 38c without rub. Disk brakes, geared for road, but usable in gravel. Not much needed right out of the box to get started…
They are an endurance geometry, with 35c tires and can fit up to a 38c without rub. Disk brakes, geared for road, but usable in gravel. Not much needed right out of the box to get started…
Last edited by M Rose; 09-21-21 at 11:56 PM.
#6
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It depends. Do you want a pure road bike? More versatility? How much stuff will you carry?
The length of your trip doesn't really tell us that you will need much stuff. Some folks get by on 10 pounds of stuff camping and cooking for weeks or months. Some carry more than that for a day ride. I find that on tour I carry pretty much the same stuff regardless of tour length. I typically don't do less than a week or 10 days at a time, but carry the same for those shorter tours as I do going coast to coast. Staying in motels to some means not taking much more than a credit card. To others it might mean lots of off bike clothes, heavy camera gear, and so on.
I often suggest if starting from scratch it would make sense to first decide what you will carry. Assemble that gear and then figure out what style of bags suit that load. Panniers? 2? 4? Seat bag? Bikepacking style bags? Only then choose what bike suits the ride.
OTOH, don't discount the value of choosing a bike you will just enjoy riding. I chose to ride my twitchy vintage (1990) Cannondale crit race bike for a southern tier ride and enjoyed it. Most would say it wasn't suitable, but I enjoy that bike a lot.
Also factor in what you think you are likely to want to do in the future if you might have different requirements later. The gravel bike will be more of a do everything bike if you want to do more dirt roads or whatever in the future.
The Pacific Coast can be ridden on pretty much any bike, but you may find you want lower gear than you might expect. There is more steep climbing than you might expect for a coastal route. So keep that in mind.
The length of your trip doesn't really tell us that you will need much stuff. Some folks get by on 10 pounds of stuff camping and cooking for weeks or months. Some carry more than that for a day ride. I find that on tour I carry pretty much the same stuff regardless of tour length. I typically don't do less than a week or 10 days at a time, but carry the same for those shorter tours as I do going coast to coast. Staying in motels to some means not taking much more than a credit card. To others it might mean lots of off bike clothes, heavy camera gear, and so on.
I often suggest if starting from scratch it would make sense to first decide what you will carry. Assemble that gear and then figure out what style of bags suit that load. Panniers? 2? 4? Seat bag? Bikepacking style bags? Only then choose what bike suits the ride.
OTOH, don't discount the value of choosing a bike you will just enjoy riding. I chose to ride my twitchy vintage (1990) Cannondale crit race bike for a southern tier ride and enjoyed it. Most would say it wasn't suitable, but I enjoy that bike a lot.
Also factor in what you think you are likely to want to do in the future if you might have different requirements later. The gravel bike will be more of a do everything bike if you want to do more dirt roads or whatever in the future.
The Pacific Coast can be ridden on pretty much any bike, but you may find you want lower gear than you might expect. There is more steep climbing than you might expect for a coastal route. So keep that in mind.
Last edited by staehpj1; 09-22-21 at 04:54 AM.
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#7
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I've used a Trek 520 touring bike for multiday (credit card style/non-camping) tours for 20 years. In 2017, I added a Trek Domane as my mid-life crisis road bike and was thinking I'd try to do a tour with it by adding some bike packing bags. Doable, but at my weight (225 lbs) and any load I was pushing the spec limit for total weight on the bike. With 24 spoke wheels with bladed (harder to find bike shops with them) spokes I decided that was not a good idea.
So, I replaced the Trek 520 with a Jamis Escapade, what is now called a gravel bike, with a 1x drive train. The type of touring I do now is more like extended weekend rides vs. longer tours and some of it is mostly rail trails with my wife. I'm loving the gravel bike for that, and for any dirt/gravel road riding I do - the 32mm tires on the Domane are too narrow for that to be fun.
If I was doing fully loaded/hilly touring, I would not have gone with a 1x drive train but for what I'm doing it has been great.
So, I replaced the Trek 520 with a Jamis Escapade, what is now called a gravel bike, with a 1x drive train. The type of touring I do now is more like extended weekend rides vs. longer tours and some of it is mostly rail trails with my wife. I'm loving the gravel bike for that, and for any dirt/gravel road riding I do - the 32mm tires on the Domane are too narrow for that to be fun.
If I was doing fully loaded/hilly touring, I would not have gone with a 1x drive train but for what I'm doing it has been great.
#8
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It depends. Do you want a pure road bike? More versatility? How much stuff will you carry?
The length of your trip doesn't really tell us that you will need much stuff. Some folks get by on 10 pounds of stuff camping and cooking for weeks or months. Some carry more than that for a day ride. I find that on tour I carry pretty much the same stuff regardless of tour length. I typically don't do less than a week or 10 days at a time, but carry the same for those shorter tours as I do going coast to coast. Staying in motels to some means not taking much more than a credit card. To others it might mean lots of off bike clothes, heavy camera gear, and so on.
I often suggest if starting from scratch it would make sense to first decide what you will carry. Assemble that gear and then figure out what style of bags suit that load. Panniers? 2? 4? Seat bag? Bikepacking style bags? Only then choose what bike suits the ride.
OTOH, don't discount the value of choosing a bike you will just enjoy riding. I chose to ride my twitchy vintage (1990) Cannondale crit race bike for a southern tier ride and enjoyed it. Most would say it wasn't suitable, but I enjoy that bike a lot.
Also factor in what you think you are likely to want to do in the future if you might have different requirements later. The gravel bike will be more of a do everything bike if you want to do more dirt roads or whatever in the future.
The Pacific Coast can be ridden on pretty much any bike, but you may find you want lower gear than you might expect. There is more steep climbing than you might expect for a coastal route. So keep that in mind.
The length of your trip doesn't really tell us that you will need much stuff. Some folks get by on 10 pounds of stuff camping and cooking for weeks or months. Some carry more than that for a day ride. I find that on tour I carry pretty much the same stuff regardless of tour length. I typically don't do less than a week or 10 days at a time, but carry the same for those shorter tours as I do going coast to coast. Staying in motels to some means not taking much more than a credit card. To others it might mean lots of off bike clothes, heavy camera gear, and so on.
I often suggest if starting from scratch it would make sense to first decide what you will carry. Assemble that gear and then figure out what style of bags suit that load. Panniers? 2? 4? Seat bag? Bikepacking style bags? Only then choose what bike suits the ride.
OTOH, don't discount the value of choosing a bike you will just enjoy riding. I chose to ride my twitchy vintage (1990) Cannondale crit race bike for a southern tier ride and enjoyed it. Most would say it wasn't suitable, but I enjoy that bike a lot.
Also factor in what you think you are likely to want to do in the future if you might have different requirements later. The gravel bike will be more of a do everything bike if you want to do more dirt roads or whatever in the future.
The Pacific Coast can be ridden on pretty much any bike, but you may find you want lower gear than you might expect. There is more steep climbing than you might expect for a coastal route. So keep that in mind.
The point about lower gearing is an important one, many of us have done this route and there is indeed steep climbing sometimes, riding with even minimal weight of a load you'll want and appreciate lower gearing of a gravel bike with a smaller crankset and bigger cassette in back.
as another nod to a gravel bike, I've ridden a cyclocross bike for 11 years and still love the versatility of it. It can take wider tires but with good slicks it is as fast and as fun as a road bike (well close anyway)
having the ability to change tires and ride fast on all kinds of surfaces is really fun, plus a "gravel" bike will be a bit tougher and more suited to putting bags on.
From my experience going an appropriate gravel bike is a no brainer.
have fun researching bikes and figuring out carrying stuff on a bike for the first time, lots of bag choices out there now for minimum setups.
Also 32mm tires are great for both rolling fast and having more stuff weight on bike, I personally love my 32mm Supremes by schwalbe.
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Pacific Coast has a surprisingly large number of hills on it, as you are often riding on tops of bluffs, not down near the shore. And every stream or creek that flows to the ocean cut a deep canyon that you descend into and climb out of.
Most of the hills I found to be 8 percent grade. But the alternate segments that the Oregon map recommends have a few hills in the 12 percent range.
My point is to get the gears you want for the uphills.
When you compare bike models that I am not familiar with, I can't comment on the bikes. But I can say if I was going to do that route again on a lightly loaded bike, it would likely have tire width from 32 to up to 37mm. I did it on 37mm tires, but was carrying camping gear.
Get the Oregon map for the part of that route that goes through Oregon. I found no comparable California map, but my information is now seven years old. Good info sources certainly could have changed in those seven years. I carried a California map with state parks, but I was camping.
Have a great trip.
Most of the hills I found to be 8 percent grade. But the alternate segments that the Oregon map recommends have a few hills in the 12 percent range.
My point is to get the gears you want for the uphills.
When you compare bike models that I am not familiar with, I can't comment on the bikes. But I can say if I was going to do that route again on a lightly loaded bike, it would likely have tire width from 32 to up to 37mm. I did it on 37mm tires, but was carrying camping gear.
Get the Oregon map for the part of that route that goes through Oregon. I found no comparable California map, but my information is now seven years old. Good info sources certainly could have changed in those seven years. I carried a California map with state parks, but I was camping.
Have a great trip.
#10
Senior Member
Get the Oregon map for the part of that route that goes through Oregon. I found no comparable California map, but my information is now seven years old. Good info sources certainly could have changed in those seven years. I carried a California map with state parks, but I was camping.
There are a couple books available about the route. I found them fun for getting psyched before the trip, but for me not a very good format for using during the trip.
#11
Jedi Master
A friend of mine has been touring around Europe all summer on an aluminum diverge. They're doing some camping so carrying a fair amount of stuff and need the attachment points for the fork bags.
#12
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The old adage that goes "You can tour on any bike." is pretty much true. Pick one with a wide gearing range and attachment points for racks. There are so many marketing models that can be confusing now-a-days to decipher.
Determining gear is a good first step, but plan to add-on during the trip. ;-)
Brad
Determining gear is a good first step, but plan to add-on during the trip. ;-)
Brad
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#13
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I have known or heard of way more people who got rid of stuff in one way or another than added it. On my first tour we mailed stuff home several times. I might have added a warmer clothing item once or twice on various tours, but way more often sent stuff home. Having room for more stuff might be an unnecessary temptation to fill the space for some people. Very few people have a packing list that couldn't stand some trimming.
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Thank you so much for taking the time to give me your thoughts, really appreciate it. Since I'm planning to "credit card it," I think I will probably be able to get away with a fairly minimalistic load, but I do also what others have said about looking to the future and what I might want to do later. Seems like a solid gravel bike with the ability to possibly switch out tires is going to be my best bet. And yes, I need to turn my research towards the gear side, there are so many choices. Thanks again for your advice!
#15
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bheinemann I just got back from a 5 day tour down the CA coast. this was my first bike packing (hotel / credit card) tour since I was 18 (1978). I was going to strap bike packing bags on my C&V race bike with a tripleizer, but since Eroica CA was cancelled, I went with my newly purchased gravel bike.
The bike is a Ridley Kanzo AL. It had pigs of wheels when i bought it and 45 mm mixed surface tires. I swapped in my HED vanquish CF wheel set with 28 mm GP5000 tires, and transformed it. See the post gugie is putting together on C&V Touroica. My bike has a 2X subcompact GRX group, and I added water carying with Wolf Tooth B-Rad adapters, so I could carry 4, 750 mL bottles. I over packed (I was teased immediately on arrival at the start point) since I was worried about clothes, extra shoes,etc. for the 3 day stay at the end of the trip... but we made it. the participants all chose differently, showing there is no right way to go...
Front to rear:
Trek 520 with brifters and mechanical disk brakes. handlebar bar and small paniers in rear.
My Ridley, overpacked... frame bag, top tube bag, handlebar bag for DSLR, saddle pack and 2 5 liter fork bags.
Centurion (C&V) with large saddle and handle bar bags, (call it 10-12 liters).
Olmo, late 70s racing bike (racing gears what a hero Thor is!) with a rack and trunk bag, along with a hydration / backpack.
So find a bike you like, that you can put a reasoable load on, and go that route... this picture shows there is not a "right " way to do this!
BTW, I had a ball , and that short segment ~ 300 miles) was almost 20,000 feet of climbing!
The bike is a Ridley Kanzo AL. It had pigs of wheels when i bought it and 45 mm mixed surface tires. I swapped in my HED vanquish CF wheel set with 28 mm GP5000 tires, and transformed it. See the post gugie is putting together on C&V Touroica. My bike has a 2X subcompact GRX group, and I added water carying with Wolf Tooth B-Rad adapters, so I could carry 4, 750 mL bottles. I over packed (I was teased immediately on arrival at the start point) since I was worried about clothes, extra shoes,etc. for the 3 day stay at the end of the trip... but we made it. the participants all chose differently, showing there is no right way to go...
Front to rear:
Trek 520 with brifters and mechanical disk brakes. handlebar bar and small paniers in rear.
My Ridley, overpacked... frame bag, top tube bag, handlebar bag for DSLR, saddle pack and 2 5 liter fork bags.
Centurion (C&V) with large saddle and handle bar bags, (call it 10-12 liters).
Olmo, late 70s racing bike (racing gears what a hero Thor is!) with a rack and trunk bag, along with a hydration / backpack.
So find a bike you like, that you can put a reasoable load on, and go that route... this picture shows there is not a "right " way to do this!
BTW, I had a ball , and that short segment ~ 300 miles) was almost 20,000 feet of climbing!
Last edited by mgopack42; 09-22-21 at 02:17 PM.
#16
Banned
When I started doing long distance trips in the 1960's the only bikes available had racing geometry with short chain stays and steep top tube angles and they were terrible for touring use. I had a custom frame made and used geometry that is close to what came to be used for triathalon bikes in the 1980's. In terms of current bikes from Specialize there are this examples:Road Gravel frame head tube 70⁰ fork rake/offset 55mm
Road triathlon large frame head tube 72.5⁰ fork rake 45mm
Road Sprint frame head tube 73.5⁰ fork rake 44mm
Specialized Domane endurance road bike head tube 71.9⁰ fork rake 48mm
Either the gravel or the endurance bikes would probably be the best. Where chain stays come into play is when mounting a rear rack and needing enough space for the rack and the panniers so you do not hit them with your heels while pedaling. Two things I do with new bikes is to add thin foam to the handlebars and then a layer of bar tape so the bar is wider and I have more contact area for my hands at the top of the bar, and second it to change the cogs on the cassette to fit my preferences. I use on cassette for regular riding and a different one when touring. The touring one has a wider range and includes as the largest cog what is my "granny gear" that provides me with a low enough gear to go up anything. I have gone as large at 30T for the large cog but a 28T (with 45T at the front) works as well. You want a low enough gear to go up the steepest grade or against the strongest wind so you never find yourself having to walk up a grade.
Staying at hotels is a real luxury and well worth the cost if you can afford it. So nice to have a hot shower and a comfy bed at the end of the day. There are some nice California state beaches and they now have separate camping areas for walk-ins and motorhomes. No need to be next to a motorhome with the generator running or being turned away because the campground is "full".
Something else to consider is availability of bike shops for repairs if needed along your route. Far more bike shops then when I first starting traveling down the Pacific Coast in the 1970's but there are still some long stretches where you will be on your own if the cassette fails or the chain or a spoke breaks. I always carry a spare cassette and a removal tool that will clamp into a shop vise and spare spokes and a chain breaker (small version).
For tougher wheels 3-across lacing makes for a stronger wheel. The emphasis has been on lighter wheels with less durable rims and fewer spokes and this is fine for day riding but not when you plan to be hundreds of miles from the nearest town and that town does not have a real bike shop. An e-bike rider mentioned that he had a breakdown and fortunately had an Ubber account and phoned for someone to pick him up. One time I had a problem with two flatted tubular tire and was entering a city after sunset. I was able to get a ride into the city and so avoided becoming road kill.
There are many dangerous sections of Highway 1 in California (businest two land road in the USA) and currently the state highways people have errected concrete barriers so bicyclists are forced to share a single lane with cars and heavy trucks going through the Moss Landing area north of Monterey. The state highway people did this to the same section of Hwy 1 in 1972 and my friend and I ended up spending the night in the Moss Landing cemetery. Turns out cemeteries are very quiet and often good places to lay out a sleeping bag for the night.
Road triathlon large frame head tube 72.5⁰ fork rake 45mm
Road Sprint frame head tube 73.5⁰ fork rake 44mm
Specialized Domane endurance road bike head tube 71.9⁰ fork rake 48mm
Either the gravel or the endurance bikes would probably be the best. Where chain stays come into play is when mounting a rear rack and needing enough space for the rack and the panniers so you do not hit them with your heels while pedaling. Two things I do with new bikes is to add thin foam to the handlebars and then a layer of bar tape so the bar is wider and I have more contact area for my hands at the top of the bar, and second it to change the cogs on the cassette to fit my preferences. I use on cassette for regular riding and a different one when touring. The touring one has a wider range and includes as the largest cog what is my "granny gear" that provides me with a low enough gear to go up anything. I have gone as large at 30T for the large cog but a 28T (with 45T at the front) works as well. You want a low enough gear to go up the steepest grade or against the strongest wind so you never find yourself having to walk up a grade.
Staying at hotels is a real luxury and well worth the cost if you can afford it. So nice to have a hot shower and a comfy bed at the end of the day. There are some nice California state beaches and they now have separate camping areas for walk-ins and motorhomes. No need to be next to a motorhome with the generator running or being turned away because the campground is "full".
Something else to consider is availability of bike shops for repairs if needed along your route. Far more bike shops then when I first starting traveling down the Pacific Coast in the 1970's but there are still some long stretches where you will be on your own if the cassette fails or the chain or a spoke breaks. I always carry a spare cassette and a removal tool that will clamp into a shop vise and spare spokes and a chain breaker (small version).
For tougher wheels 3-across lacing makes for a stronger wheel. The emphasis has been on lighter wheels with less durable rims and fewer spokes and this is fine for day riding but not when you plan to be hundreds of miles from the nearest town and that town does not have a real bike shop. An e-bike rider mentioned that he had a breakdown and fortunately had an Ubber account and phoned for someone to pick him up. One time I had a problem with two flatted tubular tire and was entering a city after sunset. I was able to get a ride into the city and so avoided becoming road kill.
There are many dangerous sections of Highway 1 in California (businest two land road in the USA) and currently the state highways people have errected concrete barriers so bicyclists are forced to share a single lane with cars and heavy trucks going through the Moss Landing area north of Monterey. The state highway people did this to the same section of Hwy 1 in 1972 and my friend and I ended up spending the night in the Moss Landing cemetery. Turns out cemeteries are very quiet and often good places to lay out a sleeping bag for the night.
#17
Senior Member
Staying at hotels is a real luxury and well worth the cost if you can afford it. So nice to have a hot shower and a comfy bed at the end of the day. There are some nice California state beaches and they now have separate camping areas for walk-ins and motorhomes. No need to be next to a motorhome with the generator running or being turned away because the campground is "full".
Advantages both ways I guess. I am usually inclined to mostly camp and splurge on a room here and there.
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Just for consideration I would think about what type of riding I might do "as well as" the one tour. And the comments about gearing are spot on. Probably more important than tire sizing etc... as many bikes can handle the road conditions but the gearing will determine if you enjoy it.
Here's two pics of the same bike, an endurance 2x drive train and two wheel sets - 700c x 28mm and 650b x 42mm (road/gravel). I'm pretty happy with the 2x system for touring, having added a lowered geared cassette and flared bars. To me the four main things to consider are: 1. Gearing appropriate to the activity. 2. A comfortable cockpit. 3. Attachment points appropriate to the activity. 4. Wheel sizing ability appropriate to the activity. In my case I was able to flex my bike by retrofitting rims and cassette.
Here's two pics of the same bike, an endurance 2x drive train and two wheel sets - 700c x 28mm and 650b x 42mm (road/gravel). I'm pretty happy with the 2x system for touring, having added a lowered geared cassette and flared bars. To me the four main things to consider are: 1. Gearing appropriate to the activity. 2. A comfortable cockpit. 3. Attachment points appropriate to the activity. 4. Wheel sizing ability appropriate to the activity. In my case I was able to flex my bike by retrofitting rims and cassette.
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was this a typo? Trek Makes the Domane, Specialized contender in the Endurance Frame is the Roubiax. Similar bikes, and similar price, very different technology and the Roubiax max tire size it 32mm while the Domane has a max width of 38mm.
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Got a bike and one more question!
Thank you to all of you- tons of great advice and information, you are an experienced bunch. So I did find (finally) the bike I think is the right choice, and only an hour away from me in Seattle which was lucky and amazing as I could not find it anywhere. Went with the Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon, and it is a sweet ride! 2.0 Future shock, tubeless tires, SWAT compartment, gearing that will work for me, quality post and saddle, and it looks cool as a bonus.
My one question (ha, for now) is that it came with Pathfinder Pro 700x38 and the wheels are DT Swiss G540's. I think this will be just fine for mixed use practicing and training around here for the near future, but wondering about when I get more serious about training for and then doing the Pacific Coast trip which will mostly be on pavement...am I going to want to get a different wheel/tire set up for that? The internet is filled with opinions- this size and type for this, that, so on. I plan to self-support and will have gear bags but am planning to be on the more minimalist side of things for this trip. The tire width/size thing seems to be a bit controversial, or at least debated. Thanks again all!
My one question (ha, for now) is that it came with Pathfinder Pro 700x38 and the wheels are DT Swiss G540's. I think this will be just fine for mixed use practicing and training around here for the near future, but wondering about when I get more serious about training for and then doing the Pacific Coast trip which will mostly be on pavement...am I going to want to get a different wheel/tire set up for that? The internet is filled with opinions- this size and type for this, that, so on. I plan to self-support and will have gear bags but am planning to be on the more minimalist side of things for this trip. The tire width/size thing seems to be a bit controversial, or at least debated. Thanks again all!
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I just did some of the coastal route - down the Oregon coast from Astoria to Reedsport, then inland to Crater lake. I started with (brand new) 32mm GP 5000 TL tires, but ripped a sidewall before even getting to Astoria (from Seattle), and ended up riding a generic 35mm tubed rear tire purchased in Astoria.It was fine. No noticeable difference between an $80 32mm tubeless tire and a $35 (including tube and install) 35mm no-name tubed tire.
I'll go with another GP 5000 eventually, but it probably doesn't matter so much as the interwebs would have you believe.
Gearing and clothing, now that matters. It's climby, and the weather is variable, to say the least.
I'll go with another GP 5000 eventually, but it probably doesn't matter so much as the interwebs would have you believe.
Gearing and clothing, now that matters. It's climby, and the weather is variable, to say the least.
#22
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Thank you to all of you- tons of great advice and information, you are an experienced bunch. So I did find (finally) the bike I think is the right choice, and only an hour away from me in Seattle which was lucky and amazing as I could not find it anywhere. Went with the Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon, and it is a sweet ride! 2.0 Future shock, tubeless tires, SWAT compartment, gearing that will work for me, quality post and saddle, and it looks cool as a bonus.
My one question (ha, for now) is that it came with Pathfinder Pro 700x38 and the wheels are DT Swiss G540's. I think this will be just fine for mixed use practicing and training around here for the near future, but wondering about when I get more serious about training for and then doing the Pacific Coast trip which will mostly be on pavement...am I going to want to get a different wheel/tire set up for that? The internet is filled with opinions- this size and type for this, that, so on. I plan to self-support and will have gear bags but am planning to be on the more minimalist side of things for this trip. The tire width/size thing seems to be a bit controversial, or at least debated. Thanks again all!
My one question (ha, for now) is that it came with Pathfinder Pro 700x38 and the wheels are DT Swiss G540's. I think this will be just fine for mixed use practicing and training around here for the near future, but wondering about when I get more serious about training for and then doing the Pacific Coast trip which will mostly be on pavement...am I going to want to get a different wheel/tire set up for that? The internet is filled with opinions- this size and type for this, that, so on. I plan to self-support and will have gear bags but am planning to be on the more minimalist side of things for this trip. The tire width/size thing seems to be a bit controversial, or at least debated. Thanks again all!
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#23
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Thank you to all of you- tons of great advice and information, you are an experienced bunch. So I did find (finally) the bike I think is the right choice, and only an hour away from me in Seattle which was lucky and amazing as I could not find it anywhere. Went with the Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon, and it is a sweet ride! 2.0 Future shock, tubeless tires, SWAT compartment, gearing that will work for me, quality post and saddle, and it looks cool as a bonus.
My one question (ha, for now) is that it came with Pathfinder Pro 700x38 and the wheels are DT Swiss G540's. I think this will be just fine for mixed use practicing and training around here for the near future, but wondering about when I get more serious about training for and then doing the Pacific Coast trip which will mostly be on pavement...am I going to want to get a different wheel/tire set up for that? The internet is filled with opinions- this size and type for this, that, so on. I plan to self-support and will have gear bags but am planning to be on the more minimalist side of things for this trip. The tire width/size thing seems to be a bit controversial, or at least debated. Thanks again all!
My one question (ha, for now) is that it came with Pathfinder Pro 700x38 and the wheels are DT Swiss G540's. I think this will be just fine for mixed use practicing and training around here for the near future, but wondering about when I get more serious about training for and then doing the Pacific Coast trip which will mostly be on pavement...am I going to want to get a different wheel/tire set up for that? The internet is filled with opinions- this size and type for this, that, so on. I plan to self-support and will have gear bags but am planning to be on the more minimalist side of things for this trip. The tire width/size thing seems to be a bit controversial, or at least debated. Thanks again all!
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#24
Senior Member
40\31.... That's a weird combo. Are you sure about that?
And for tires, there are loads of nice slicks out there. I've toured on 28s a lot but really am sold on wider now. With a good tire in the 32, 35 range you'll have great rolling and nicer comfort than a 28.
And for tires, there are loads of nice slicks out there. I've toured on 28s a lot but really am sold on wider now. With a good tire in the 32, 35 range you'll have great rolling and nicer comfort than a 28.
#25
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If this is it, that is 48/31.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/di...arbon/p/175285
But I find 31 to be a bit odd, I expect even numbers on chainrings since they almost always are. Maybe a typo and 48/32, as that would have a difference of 16T and a lot of front derailleurs are designed for a 16T difference.
My low gear when I did Pacific Coast was chainring 24, big sprocket 32. I like that better but I had my camping gear on the bike.