Rear hub identification (Shimano UG)
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 476
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 253 Post(s)
Liked 223 Times
in
118 Posts
Rear hub identification (Shimano UG)
Hi,
i bought a, what appears to me, 36 Hole UG rear hub, to change the freewheel on my new bike to a freehbub type.
Litte did I know, that now i have to find a UG cassette, as i was under the impression, that i could just use a 7-sp HG cassette. (I recon there are ways to fit a HG casette to a UG body, please do let me know)
What's even more weird to me is, that the O.L.D. is 124 mm. The height of the freehub body seems to be ~32.4 mm.
Can i fit a 7sp HG casette on there (with modifications)? Should I/can i switch out the freehub body? What are my options?
OLD
markings on the hub
bearing seal?
i bought a, what appears to me, 36 Hole UG rear hub, to change the freewheel on my new bike to a freehbub type.
Litte did I know, that now i have to find a UG cassette, as i was under the impression, that i could just use a 7-sp HG cassette. (I recon there are ways to fit a HG casette to a UG body, please do let me know)
What's even more weird to me is, that the O.L.D. is 124 mm. The height of the freehub body seems to be ~32.4 mm.
Can i fit a 7sp HG casette on there (with modifications)? Should I/can i switch out the freehub body? What are my options?
OLD
markings on the hub
bearing seal?
#2
Really Old Senior Member
You can file the narrow notch on 6 of the HG cogs, but you'll still need a Uni Glide threaded end cog to hold everything together.
#4
Really Old Senior Member
#6
Really Old Senior Member
#8
aka: Dr. Cannondale
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,737
Mentioned: 234 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2156 Post(s)
Liked 3,411 Times
in
1,207 Posts
Yes, you can use HG cogs for all but the first on a 6 speed, pretty sure you need a second threaded UG cog for a seven speed. All younhave to do is file/Dremel one flange to make them fit.
However.
I’m in agreement with Bill on this one and would shop around- maybe post a WTB in the for sale section- for a 126mm HG compatible rear hub. Don’t complicate your life unless you really have to.
However.
I’m in agreement with Bill on this one and would shop around- maybe post a WTB in the for sale section- for a 126mm HG compatible rear hub. Don’t complicate your life unless you really have to.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
#9
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,845
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 809 Post(s)
Liked 712 Times
in
380 Posts
Here's the bad news: that's an early Uniglide hub, where the cassette body is pressed onto the hub and held in place by friction. Later hubs, which used threads or a hollow bolt to hold the cassette body on the hub, have a distinctive bulge on the hub body by the right flange. There's no cassette body that interchanges with this one and the mounting spud has a tendency to wear, leading to a ruined hub.
(See School me on this hub and freewheel - Bike Forums for pictures of a ruined Uniglide hub.)
Unless you're doing a concours restoration and need to use the exactly correct hub for your bike, I'd throw this back. For your setup you need to find a 7-speed Hyperglide hub from the late '80's or early '90's. They are out there, and Shimano was making really good products even at the lower price points. A 7-speed 105 or RM40 hub would be perfect.
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Likes For Jeff Wills:
#10
Really Old Senior Member
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 476
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 253 Post(s)
Liked 223 Times
in
118 Posts
You don't have many options. The only realistic option is to modify a Hyperglide cassette to fit, but you'll still need a Uniglide small cog to hold it on. I'm pretty sure a 7-speed Hyperglide cassette will fit lengthwise since 7-speed uses thinner spacers than 6-speed.
Here's the bad news: that's an early Uniglide hub, where the cassette body is pressed onto the hub and held in place by friction. Later hubs, which used threads or a hollow bolt to hold the cassette body on the hub, have a distinctive bulge on the hub body by the right flange. There's no cassette body that interchanges with this one and the mounting spud has a tendency to wear, leading to a ruined hub.
(See School me on this hub and freewheel - Bike Forums for pictures of a ruined Uniglide hub.)
Unless you're doing a concours restoration and need to use the exactly correct hub for your bike, I'd throw this back. For your setup you need to find a 7-speed Hyperglide hub from the late '80's or early '90's. They are out there, and Shimano was making really good products even at the lower price points. A 7-speed 105 or RM40 hub would be perfect.
Here's the bad news: that's an early Uniglide hub, where the cassette body is pressed onto the hub and held in place by friction. Later hubs, which used threads or a hollow bolt to hold the cassette body on the hub, have a distinctive bulge on the hub body by the right flange. There's no cassette body that interchanges with this one and the mounting spud has a tendency to wear, leading to a ruined hub.
(See School me on this hub and freewheel - Bike Forums for pictures of a ruined Uniglide hub.)
Unless you're doing a concours restoration and need to use the exactly correct hub for your bike, I'd throw this back. For your setup you need to find a 7-speed Hyperglide hub from the late '80's or early '90's. They are out there, and Shimano was making really good products even at the lower price points. A 7-speed 105 or RM40 hub would be perfect.