recommendation for aluminum deep rim wheels?
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That's what I figured. Guess I could go with 30 mm depth, maybe something is out there in aluminum for that depth. My goal is very shallow - I like the looks of deep rims, but I don't want to have any carbon fiber on the bike, except the water bottle holder and the kickstand. I'm not a performance rider. I'm heavyweight and a little extra weight on a bike don't matter to me, as I'd need to lose 50 lbs of bodyweight to be anywhere near performance rider weight. If anyone has a name or a link to somewhat deep aluminum clincher rims, would be appreciated.
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It might be the stickrz. Some are faster than others.
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EDIT: I'm wrong. Thanks for the correction @Cuevelo. 8-10 is interchangeable.
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Last edited by Eric F; 04-22-21 at 01:42 PM.
#30
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https://bikerumor.com/2012/05/01/11-...ech-breakdown/
#31
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(It's also possible to machine many 11-speed hyperglide cassettes 11-25 and larger to fit onto an 8/9/10-speed hub, but this is obviously not approved by the manufacturers and will definitely void any relevant warranties.)
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Yes they did. 11 speed road freehub bodies are longer than 8 speed.
https://bikerumor.com/2012/05/01/11-...ech-breakdown/
https://bikerumor.com/2012/05/01/11-...ech-breakdown/
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You can in some cases. 11-speed cassettes with large big cogs can be designed to have the biggest cog overhang the wheel's spokes slightly, so the cassette takes up less room on the freehub. 8/9/10-speed hyperglide freehubs are all the same. Shimano's 11-speed cassettes of 11-34 and larger are generally designed to fit on 8/9/10-speed freehubs.
(It's also possible to machine many 11-speed hyperglide cassettes 11-25 and larger to fit onto an 8/9/10-speed hub, but this is obviously not approved by the manufacturers and will definitely void any relevant warranties.)
(It's also possible to machine many 11-speed hyperglide cassettes 11-25 and larger to fit onto an 8/9/10-speed hub, but this is obviously not approved by the manufacturers and will definitely void any relevant warranties.)
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Your best option is for a shallow aluminum rim with a carbon faring. A faring is basically a cover, it doesn't "do" anything in terms of holding you up, it's there to add depth/tallness to the rim not to bear weight.
Your next best bet is to DIY.
Your third best bet is to use the wheels that came with your bike. If you're determined to upgrade things, ride the bike a while first and let your experience guide your priorities. Some things about the bike may bother you, those are usually the best places to use your upgrade budget.
Your next best bet is to DIY.
Your third best bet is to use the wheels that came with your bike. If you're determined to upgrade things, ride the bike a while first and let your experience guide your priorities. Some things about the bike may bother you, those are usually the best places to use your upgrade budget.
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Also, buying a different pair of tires will make you faster than buying a different set of aluminum deep rims.
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#36
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why? heavy wheels will make the bike ride like a bag of dogs... just get nice moderate depth DT swiss... or easton or what ever flavor.. deep = weight.. heck... if you could find some CD open pros... thats what you really need..
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#41
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Can't say I know of a 50-60 deep aluminum rim... but in 2012 or 2013 I bought a pair of Roval Rapide AL35 wheels and just plain loved them. Not the lightest but I loved the stability and perceived aero benefits as well as some of the best hubs around. I took these off my road bike and let them stew for a few years before calling them back into service when I built my son's gravel bike. They found their forever home. They ride beautifully and look quite good. They're also pretty stout. After quite a few thousand miles, however, they haven't lost any weight.
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The older Giant PA2's were 38mm alloy. Most I've seen in a wheel you can readily find. They were the stock wheel on 2015 or so Propels and Trinity bikes.
HED jets are alloy with carbon fairing. So alloy wheel with just the non structural aero part being carbon. Same for Flo. IMHO that's the way to go if you don't want full carbon but want deep profiles.
Often gravel folks ask this question. Without realizing you need a really really wide wheel to match the tire and have the aero be remotely useful. They worry of the all carbon on gravel and damage. A legit concern. The cross use of a deeper wheel is mud depth, not aero.
IMHO if you're dead set on this and all alloy.......get a used set of those Giant PA2. I had success setting up a set tubeless and run them as my cross/gravel wheelset. I did so as they were laying in the shed, so why not.
HED jets are alloy with carbon fairing. So alloy wheel with just the non structural aero part being carbon. Same for Flo. IMHO that's the way to go if you don't want full carbon but want deep profiles.
Often gravel folks ask this question. Without realizing you need a really really wide wheel to match the tire and have the aero be remotely useful. They worry of the all carbon on gravel and damage. A legit concern. The cross use of a deeper wheel is mud depth, not aero.
IMHO if you're dead set on this and all alloy.......get a used set of those Giant PA2. I had success setting up a set tubeless and run them as my cross/gravel wheelset. I did so as they were laying in the shed, so why not.
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#44
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Take a look at DTSwiss. PR 1400 Dicut Oxic, for example, comes in 21 and 32 mm depth. I have recently bought the 21 mm set for my road bike. I like them a lot!
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I also had a Honda Civic when I was 16...but stock rims. My 3rd car was also a Civic. I put bikes that cost more on the roof.
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Proving that you can answer a simple question with a simple answer, how about these?
QUOTE=motopokep;22025662]I'm shopping for 50-60 mm deep rims and I'm only finding carbon ones. Are there any aluminum deep rims out there? clinchers preferred. thx.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=motopokep;22025662]I'm shopping for 50-60 mm deep rims and I'm only finding carbon ones. Are there any aluminum deep rims out there? clinchers preferred. thx.[/QUOTE]
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