The Cult of CAAD...
#3826
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego
Posts: 26
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Here's my Caad
Finally starting to ride it again after a couple months off due to a crash. It's nothing special now, but I do hope for it to be someday. Only things changed for now are the EA90 wheelset and a carbon stem.
Finally starting to ride it again after a couple months off due to a crash. It's nothing special now, but I do hope for it to be someday. Only things changed for now are the EA90 wheelset and a carbon stem.
#3827
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beautiful Long Beach California
Posts: 3,589
Bikes: Eddy Merckx San Remo 76, Eddy Merckx San Remo 76 - Black Silver and Red, Eddy Merckx Sallanches 64 (2); Eddy Merckx MXL;
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 143 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
#3828
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 700
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD10 Team, Giant TCR
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have noticed that double tasking a single lever for shifts makes the swing to a larger cog and/or chainring a very large motion compared with even my 105 group on a different bike. This is most noticable to me riding in the drops, where Shimano shifting is a bit more effortless. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I spend a lot of time in my drops, so it's something I often think about. On the hoods it doesn't really matter to me.
Downshifts are usually done on the hoods (more so during climbs). To me, SRAM has a shorter swing due to the action on a smaller inner lever - but is harder to do (tighter), mainly because you have to go over the upshifting mechcanism first. Downshifting on Shimano on the larger outer lever needs less effort due to more leverage.
On the front it's the same thing as well.
For me, shifts on SRAM's DoubleTap feel more deliberate, "snappier" if I should say so. While on Shimano it's a smoother action and is more refined.
As for Campagnolo, well... It's a Campagnolo!
#3830
Jet Jockey
If you can't/won't sprint in the drops, the bike is probably set up wrong.
__________________
Good night...and good luck
Good night...and good luck
#3831
Flying Under the Radar
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Northeast PA
Posts: 4,116
Bikes: 10' SuperiorLite SL Club | 06' Giant FCR3 | 2010 GT Avalanche 3.0 Disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Agreed. I see people do it though. they aren't usually people I would want to copy form from. I will use the bends a little but usually the drops.
#3832
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 700
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD10 Team, Giant TCR
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#3834
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 85
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#3835
Jet Jockey
With Shimano HT II cranks, a lot of shops screw up the axial pre-load. The part that is commonly referred to as a "dust cap" on the NDS is the pre-tension for the axial loading of the bearings. I see a LOT of shops crank that thing down tight, and then tighten the crank-arm bolts. What this does is side-load the bearings, and over time (a short time if they're heavily side-loaded) they start to creak and tick.
Saddles are a VERY common source of perceived bottom bracket creaks. The saddle moves with your butt with every pedal stroke, and if it's creaky...it carries right down to the bottom bracket.
Otherwise, pedal/cleat interface can be a very common source.
__________________
Good night...and good luck
Good night...and good luck
#3836
Senior Member
#3837
Senior Member
I've thought about getting it professionally resprayed - but that money would be better spent on a decent wheelset...
#3838
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 85
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is that a BB30 shell with an adapter for the Shimano crank? If so...could be yet another BB30 creak from the interference fit interface. However, if it's not that, your most likely culprits are as follows:
With Shimano HT II cranks, a lot of shops screw up the axial pre-load. The part that is commonly referred to as a "dust cap" on the NDS is the pre-tension for the axial loading of the bearings. I see a LOT of shops crank that thing down tight, and then tighten the crank-arm bolts. What this does is side-load the bearings, and over time (a short time if they're heavily side-loaded) they start to creak and tick.
Saddles are a VERY common source of perceived bottom bracket creaks. The saddle moves with your butt with every pedal stroke, and if it's creaky...it carries right down to the bottom bracket.
Otherwise, pedal/cleat interface can be a very common source.
With Shimano HT II cranks, a lot of shops screw up the axial pre-load. The part that is commonly referred to as a "dust cap" on the NDS is the pre-tension for the axial loading of the bearings. I see a LOT of shops crank that thing down tight, and then tighten the crank-arm bolts. What this does is side-load the bearings, and over time (a short time if they're heavily side-loaded) they start to creak and tick.
Saddles are a VERY common source of perceived bottom bracket creaks. The saddle moves with your butt with every pedal stroke, and if it's creaky...it carries right down to the bottom bracket.
Otherwise, pedal/cleat interface can be a very common source.
Nope, not BB30. It's HT II.
I did the install, and now that I read your post, I may have cranked the dust cap, I actually had no idea that was the real function of it, I'll take another look at it.
I've rulled out the saddle and pedal/cleat interface. I'm sure it's in the BB area/Crankset. It's possible the BB is pooched, it's still the original (and cheap enough to replace)
Thanks for that.
#3839
Jet Jockey
Nope, not BB30. It's HT II.
I did the install, and now that I read your post, I may have cranked the dust cap, I actually had no idea that was the real function of it, I'll take another look at it.
I've rulled out the saddle and pedal/cleat interface. I'm sure it's in the BB area/Crankset. It's possible the BB is pooched, it's still the original (and cheap enough to replace)
Thanks for that.
I did the install, and now that I read your post, I may have cranked the dust cap, I actually had no idea that was the real function of it, I'll take another look at it.
I've rulled out the saddle and pedal/cleat interface. I'm sure it's in the BB area/Crankset. It's possible the BB is pooched, it's still the original (and cheap enough to replace)
Thanks for that.
Step one: Snug/pre-load bearings.
Step two: Tighten crank arm bolts.
__________________
Good night...and good luck
Good night...and good luck
#3840
Aluminium Crusader :-)
After all these years, I finally got one, and I love it. It's an old-ish Caad8. It's stiff, responsive and feels fast. It's also light: the bare frame is 1265g, size 58. I got the frame alone (no fork, headset or clamps), with a couple of dents in the top tube, on Ebay for $33!!! Cool. I can't believe I forgot to spin the cranks around for the photo, HA
Last edited by 531Aussie; 10-10-12 at 11:42 PM.
#3841
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 700
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD10 Team, Giant TCR
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
WOW,! A CAAD8 for $33 - what a deal! And it's 'Handmade in USA' Cannondale still sells the CAAD8 for $1450 (spec'd with 105), but it's already made in Taiwan.
If the dents are merely cosmetic and there's nothing wrong with the way it rides then good for you. Enjoy!
If the dents are merely cosmetic and there's nothing wrong with the way it rides then good for you. Enjoy!
#3843
King Hoternot
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 5,255
Bikes: 2015 Cannondale Evo Hi mod
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#3844
Jet Jockey
The "CAAD8" that Cannondale sells now has almost nothing in common with that older CAAD8, save for the name. 531Aussie's CAAD8 is almost indistinguishable from the CAAD9 if it wasn't labelled.
The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
__________________
Good night...and good luck
Good night...and good luck
#3845
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 700
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD10 Team, Giant TCR
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
...the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
#3846
Aluminium Crusader :-)
Ha! Truth be told, I only threw that saddle on for the photo, because my regular saddles are a bit tattered. Although, I do have my saddles titled slightly upward, old-school style.
Last edited by 531Aussie; 10-11-12 at 09:24 AM.
#3847
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beautiful Long Beach California
Posts: 3,589
Bikes: Eddy Merckx San Remo 76, Eddy Merckx San Remo 76 - Black Silver and Red, Eddy Merckx Sallanches 64 (2); Eddy Merckx MXL;
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 143 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
The "CAAD8" that Cannondale sells now has almost nothing in common with that older CAAD8, save for the name. 531Aussie's CAAD8 is almost indistinguishable from the CAAD9 if it wasn't labelled.
The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
#3848
Beer >> Sanity
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,449
Bikes: 2014 Evo DA2, 2010 Caad9-4, 2011 Synapse-4, 2013 CaadX-disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thoughts on the CAADX?
Any thoughts on the CaadX? Thinking of getting one as an around-town commuter, grocery getter and light touring. Not really into the cyclocross thing but the bike seems like a nice all-rounder. What I don't like is the crappy brakes. Cantis should stop a bike well but these seem slightly better than just costing. Better pads or is there a different brake design that might work better for this type of bike?
#3849
Senior Member
The "CAAD8" that Cannondale sells now has almost nothing in common with that older CAAD8, save for the name. 531Aussie's CAAD8 is almost indistinguishable from the CAAD9 if it wasn't labelled.
The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
It seems that some believe its a good frame...
https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor...-20120705.html
#3850
Beer >> Sanity
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,449
Bikes: 2014 Evo DA2, 2010 Caad9-4, 2011 Synapse-4, 2013 CaadX-disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Any thoughts on the CaadX? Thinking of getting one as an around-town commuter, grocery getter and light touring. Not really into the cyclocross thing but the bike seems like a nice all-rounder. What I don't like is the crappy brakes. Cantis should stop a bike well but these seem slightly better than just costing. Better pads or is there a different brake design that might work better for this type of bike?
https://www.sram.com/avid/products/sh...mate-rim-brake