What have you been wrenching on lately?
#7701
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Idaho, USA
Posts: 224
Bikes: Aluminum and Steel
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 388 Times
in
145 Posts
I was going to try rags soaked in Evaporust then wrap with saran wrap. But I didn't want to wait 12-24 hours. Plus the idea of wrapping in between the spokes gave me a head ache.
__________________
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
Likes For IdahoBrett:
#7702
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Idaho, USA
Posts: 224
Bikes: Aluminum and Steel
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 388 Times
in
145 Posts
After the new decals reassembly will commence. That is if I do well with the decals. I better have Mrs. Idaho keep her eyes on the straightness for me. All my picture hangin' usually ends up crooked.
__________________
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
#7703
1991 PBP Anciens
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Elburn, Illannoy
Posts: 633
Bikes: 1954 Robin Hood, 1964 Dunelt, 1968 Raleigh Superbe, 1969 Robin Hood, 197? Gitane, 1973 Raleigh SuperCourse, 1981 Miyata 710, 1990 Miyata 600GT, 2007 Rivendell Bleriot
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Liked 319 Times
in
124 Posts
Starting a clean up on this old old Starrett dial indicator set.
A good cleaning and a new crystal. Anything to get me out of the house yet not spend an inordinate of time on the stupid knee scooter. On that front, I may be able to start hobbling on two feet next week and back on a bike, slowly, the following week.
A good cleaning and a new crystal. Anything to get me out of the house yet not spend an inordinate of time on the stupid knee scooter. On that front, I may be able to start hobbling on two feet next week and back on a bike, slowly, the following week.
Likes For bikamper:
#7705
Cantilever believer
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,598
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 546 Post(s)
Liked 1,881 Times
in
848 Posts
This afternoon is probably the final day I'll have available for working on my bike stockpile for the next two weeks, so I thought "let's see if I can actually finish some partially-rebuilt bikes today."
First up: a Diamondback Ascent that should just need a shifter swap. But the crunchy Tioga Farmer John's Nephew tires were more than old enough to have nephews themselves, so they were swapped for some pre-loved Serfas Drifters. Cabled it up and it came together nicely. One down.
Back to that Miyata Triplecross. Shifters are degunked, so they went back on along with new cables, old grips, and shiny pedals. Two down.
And then from behind me... the unmistakable sound of "fsssshhh" as the rear tube on the Ascent went from 65 to 0 in about half a second. Oh fsshh. Yanked the tire off and discovered the tube may have looked OK, but had an unseen weakness down around the rim tape, and it finally gave way once repressurized. Oh well - swapped it out & pumped it up.
Don't give me that look.
Almost done - I put new covers in two old saddles, and now the bikes are ready to head to the co-op for sale.
Plus I had the ultrasonic cleaner working on two sets of shifters during all this - one set cleaned up great, but the other set is not giving up without a gooey greasy fight.
Between that and doing the taxes, I'm almost thinking I might have accomplished something today.
First up: a Diamondback Ascent that should just need a shifter swap. But the crunchy Tioga Farmer John's Nephew tires were more than old enough to have nephews themselves, so they were swapped for some pre-loved Serfas Drifters. Cabled it up and it came together nicely. One down.
Back to that Miyata Triplecross. Shifters are degunked, so they went back on along with new cables, old grips, and shiny pedals. Two down.
And then from behind me... the unmistakable sound of "fsssshhh" as the rear tube on the Ascent went from 65 to 0 in about half a second. Oh fsshh. Yanked the tire off and discovered the tube may have looked OK, but had an unseen weakness down around the rim tape, and it finally gave way once repressurized. Oh well - swapped it out & pumped it up.
Don't give me that look.
Almost done - I put new covers in two old saddles, and now the bikes are ready to head to the co-op for sale.
Plus I had the ultrasonic cleaner working on two sets of shifters during all this - one set cleaned up great, but the other set is not giving up without a gooey greasy fight.
Between that and doing the taxes, I'm almost thinking I might have accomplished something today.
__________________
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Likes For RCMoeur:
#7706
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 438 Times
in
254 Posts
Oh, it might be possible to take both the rear part of the seat tube clamp and the cage from some other Suntour FDs. I'd have to have a look, but I believe several models shared parts of the design.
#7707
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Portland, Cascadia
Posts: 515
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 258 Times
in
112 Posts
You can remove rivets with a drill, by gently applying a drill bit to the "dimpled" end of the rivet / pin. Grinder is another option, but I would prefer a drill bit myself. More precise. I don't see why one wouldn't be able to use new rivets to put these back together. It might not be easy wherever any spring tension is involved and might require some robust vocabulary in the process (speaking from experience of re-assembling Huret Success front derailleur, and that was made to be taken apart), but should be possible. Personally, were I to attempt something like this (if I had well enough equipped workshop, which right now I don't have), I would take a leaf from Huret Success Titane book and use clevis pins with circlips to put it back together.
A bolt and nut is the worst option, but still exists.
#7708
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 438 Times
in
254 Posts
Nothing serious today, didn't have much time. But since I'm waiting for Spidel brake calipers to arrive, I will need pads for them, so decided to make a start. I tend to use Weinmann pads as the basis for any vintage brakes that come without pads. They are inexpensive, easy to find and made of aluminium. Which can be polished quite easily to a mirror finish, if someone had time and energy for that. This time I just gave them once over with a scouring bit on the rotary tool and then a brass brush bit. Perhaps at some point I'll give them a bit more attention, after I tighten all the wings. Donor pads are made by Fibrax (Steel & Alloy compatible) and they are basically identical to Weinmann ones, could be used as they are. But they are made of steel, which I don't like, because it's more slippery in the calipers. The rubber pads are a perfect fit. And the chamfered nuts are also pretty decent and I find them better for caliper brakes than aluminium (or steel) domed nuts Weinmann pads sometimes come with.
A new old stock, 116mm TA 344 bottom bracket spindle arrived today. I've cleaned some surface rust off it (nothing serious) and decied to see whether Sugino cups I have will be a match. It certainly seems so. With caged bearings there is about 1mm clearance between the cup face and the beginning of the taper, so with loose bearings I will use it with, definitely there shouldn't be any issue with cranks rubbing on them (and also, cranks won't reach the bottom of the taper anyway). I will be using this setup with Spidel 105bis crankset, so the chainline should be still alright. 1mm closer to the centre of the frame than with 118mm spindle originally intended, but that should also result in a smaller chance for the chain rubbing against the FD cage in unorthodox gear combinations, so I'm fine with that. It looks like that's another bit sorted. In the end, Superator gets Superbe and SR Royal mix I was originally planning for it (albeit with Spidel brakes). C5 will be rebuilt very close to catalog specification (Belleri stem and handlebar, Weinmann (Carrera) Brakes, Spidel / Stronglight 105 crankset, Selle San Marco Concor saddle, probably SR Laprade seatpost) but with Huret Jubilee derailleurs instead of Huret Success and with Simplex SLJ shifters instead of Huret Success ones.
A new old stock, 116mm TA 344 bottom bracket spindle arrived today. I've cleaned some surface rust off it (nothing serious) and decied to see whether Sugino cups I have will be a match. It certainly seems so. With caged bearings there is about 1mm clearance between the cup face and the beginning of the taper, so with loose bearings I will use it with, definitely there shouldn't be any issue with cranks rubbing on them (and also, cranks won't reach the bottom of the taper anyway). I will be using this setup with Spidel 105bis crankset, so the chainline should be still alright. 1mm closer to the centre of the frame than with 118mm spindle originally intended, but that should also result in a smaller chance for the chain rubbing against the FD cage in unorthodox gear combinations, so I'm fine with that. It looks like that's another bit sorted. In the end, Superator gets Superbe and SR Royal mix I was originally planning for it (albeit with Spidel brakes). C5 will be rebuilt very close to catalog specification (Belleri stem and handlebar, Weinmann (Carrera) Brakes, Spidel / Stronglight 105 crankset, Selle San Marco Concor saddle, probably SR Laprade seatpost) but with Huret Jubilee derailleurs instead of Huret Success and with Simplex SLJ shifters instead of Huret Success ones.
Likes For VintageSteelEU:
#7709
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 438 Times
in
254 Posts
I remember when I was overhauling my Huret Success set, spring in the FD gave me the most grief, I almost gave up on it. But it's a completely different design than in typical front derailleurs. Thinking about it now, I believe the FD actually used screws, but would have to dig it out to have a closer look and refresh my memory.
#7710
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,682
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1617 Post(s)
Liked 2,620 Times
in
1,235 Posts
Unwanted Sekai got a makeover.
Likes For curbtender:
#7711
1991 PBP Anciens
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Elburn, Illannoy
Posts: 633
Bikes: 1954 Robin Hood, 1964 Dunelt, 1968 Raleigh Superbe, 1969 Robin Hood, 197? Gitane, 1973 Raleigh SuperCourse, 1981 Miyata 710, 1990 Miyata 600GT, 2007 Rivendell Bleriot
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Liked 319 Times
in
124 Posts
Started on the replacement counter-shaft for the 90 year old Craftsman lathe, on the 90 year old Craftsman lathe.
The shaft is not perfect, but neither is the lathe.I kind of have to make the tools to make the tools...
The replacement crystal for the about as old Starrett dial indicator showed up yesterday. Looks good.
The shaft is not perfect, but neither is the lathe.I kind of have to make the tools to make the tools...
The replacement crystal for the about as old Starrett dial indicator showed up yesterday. Looks good.
#7712
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Yucatán. México
Posts: 6,281
Bikes: 79 Trek 930 is back on the road, 80 Trek 414, 84 Schwinn Letour Luxe,87 Schwinn Prelude, 92 Schwinn Paramount PDG 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3213 Post(s)
Liked 1,863 Times
in
1,173 Posts
A few weeks ago, while at the bolt specialty shop, I learned that bicycle mounting bolts are stainless. Today I learned why. Attempting to put pannier hooks on my wife’s Bianchi Forte, I found hex head bolts. One came right out. The other had to ultimately be filed down enough to pop the rack foot off. And then I had something I could get ahold of with the vise grips.
#7713
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,091
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 269 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4520 Post(s)
Liked 6,407 Times
in
3,686 Posts
A few weeks ago, while at the bolt specialty shop, I learned that bicycle mounting bolts are stainless. Today I learned why. Attempting to put pannier hooks on my wife’s Bianchi Forte, I found hex head bolts. One came right out. The other had to ultimately be filed down enough to pop the rack foot off. And then I had something I could get ahold of with the vise grips.
#7714
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 438 Times
in
254 Posts
Another SR Royal BB spindle arrived today and was cleaned (not that it needed much cleaning). Really good condition, despite being previously used, so that's 10 quid well spent. Totally forgot it's assymetrical though, so not sure whether it will do as a replacement for the Suntour Sprint one, which is 109mm. With SR Royal I would be getting the chainline 2mm outwards. Not something I have to worry about right now, got other projects to complete.
Today the most time consuming thing was modifying the seatpost to fit Reboul Superator. I had Ritchey branded Nitto S65 which I got on the cheap, but in 26.8 instead of 26.6mm required and way too long. It was slightly mistreated, with snake lines and gashes, so needed sanding down anyway. Not sure why I started sanding it down before I cut it down to the required length, but thankfully few minutes in I realised there is no point in sanding down the part I'm not going to need. That took best part of two hours, then about 30-40 minutes going over with finer sandpaper (ended up with 2500 grit) and then a bit of polishing. It's not quite finished yet, need to even out the edge of the cut and round the seatpost walls on it and it definitely needs more polishing, but for now it will do. If I like the ride, I will put some more time and work in it this winter. But the seatpost fits pretty well now, so I'm happy I've made some progress. Next step will be applying the same procedure to the stem (I have 22.2, need 22mm) followed by modifying chainrings slightly. And then installing brakes, cables and chain and we'll see how this thing rides
Still needs polishing
New version of San Marco Regal (Evo) behind, the old one (Regal Girardi) in front. Looking at the design, name is the only thing they have in common, really. Completely different saddles. I like the modern one and I find it comfortable, haven't tried the old one yet.
Today the most time consuming thing was modifying the seatpost to fit Reboul Superator. I had Ritchey branded Nitto S65 which I got on the cheap, but in 26.8 instead of 26.6mm required and way too long. It was slightly mistreated, with snake lines and gashes, so needed sanding down anyway. Not sure why I started sanding it down before I cut it down to the required length, but thankfully few minutes in I realised there is no point in sanding down the part I'm not going to need. That took best part of two hours, then about 30-40 minutes going over with finer sandpaper (ended up with 2500 grit) and then a bit of polishing. It's not quite finished yet, need to even out the edge of the cut and round the seatpost walls on it and it definitely needs more polishing, but for now it will do. If I like the ride, I will put some more time and work in it this winter. But the seatpost fits pretty well now, so I'm happy I've made some progress. Next step will be applying the same procedure to the stem (I have 22.2, need 22mm) followed by modifying chainrings slightly. And then installing brakes, cables and chain and we'll see how this thing rides
Still needs polishing
New version of San Marco Regal (Evo) behind, the old one (Regal Girardi) in front. Looking at the design, name is the only thing they have in common, really. Completely different saddles. I like the modern one and I find it comfortable, haven't tried the old one yet.
#7715
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,831 Times
in
1,997 Posts
Started on the replacement counter-shaft for the 90 year old Craftsman lathe, on the 90 year old Craftsman lathe.
The shaft is not perfect, but neither is the lathe.I kind of have to make the tools to make the tools...
The replacement crystal for the about as old Starrett dial indicator showed up yesterday. Looks good.
The shaft is not perfect, but neither is the lathe.I kind of have to make the tools to make the tools...
The replacement crystal for the about as old Starrett dial indicator showed up yesterday. Looks good.
I saw this done once and was surprised/impressed.
Likes For repechage:
#7716
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 112
Bikes: Motobecane Grand Record, Motobecane Super Mirage (3x5 speeds), Motobecane Mirage, Atala (unknown model), Peugeot mixte frame Tourist and Schwinn Sport. A bunch more kids bikes. Most recently a Trek Verve One, tricked up for serious touring.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times
in
29 Posts
Another SR Royal BB spindle arrived today and was cleaned (not that it needed much cleaning). Really good condition, despite being previously used, so that's 10 quid well spent. Totally forgot it's assymetrical though, so not sure whether it will do as a replacement for the Suntour Sprint one, which is 109mm. With SR Royal I would be getting the chainline 2mm outwards. Not something I have to worry about right now, got other projects to complete.
Today the most time consuming thing was modifying the seatpost to fit Reboul Superator. I had Ritchey branded Nitto S65 which I got on the cheap, but in 26.8 instead of 26.6mm required and way too long. It was slightly mistreated, with snake lines and gashes, so needed sanding down anyway. Not sure why I started sanding it down before I cut it down to the required length, but thankfully few minutes in I realised there is no point in sanding down the part I'm not going to need. That took best part of two hours, then about 30-40 minutes going over with finer sandpaper (ended up with 2500 grit) and then a bit of polishing. It's not quite finished yet, need to even out the edge of the cut and round the seatpost walls on it and it definitely needs more polishing, but for now it will do. If I like the ride, I will put some more time and work in it this winter. But the seatpost fits pretty well now, so I'm happy I've made some progress. Next step will be applying the same procedure to the stem (I have 22.2, need 22mm) followed by modifying chainrings slightly. And then installing brakes, cables and chain and we'll see how this thing rides
Today the most time consuming thing was modifying the seatpost to fit Reboul Superator. I had Ritchey branded Nitto S65 which I got on the cheap, but in 26.8 instead of 26.6mm required and way too long. It was slightly mistreated, with snake lines and gashes, so needed sanding down anyway. Not sure why I started sanding it down before I cut it down to the required length, but thankfully few minutes in I realised there is no point in sanding down the part I'm not going to need. That took best part of two hours, then about 30-40 minutes going over with finer sandpaper (ended up with 2500 grit) and then a bit of polishing. It's not quite finished yet, need to even out the edge of the cut and round the seatpost walls on it and it definitely needs more polishing, but for now it will do. If I like the ride, I will put some more time and work in it this winter. But the seatpost fits pretty well now, so I'm happy I've made some progress. Next step will be applying the same procedure to the stem (I have 22.2, need 22mm) followed by modifying chainrings slightly. And then installing brakes, cables and chain and we'll see how this thing rides
#7717
1991 PBP Anciens
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Elburn, Illannoy
Posts: 633
Bikes: 1954 Robin Hood, 1964 Dunelt, 1968 Raleigh Superbe, 1969 Robin Hood, 197? Gitane, 1973 Raleigh SuperCourse, 1981 Miyata 710, 1990 Miyata 600GT, 2007 Rivendell Bleriot
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Liked 319 Times
in
124 Posts
if the “crystal” for the dial indicator is only the plastic… a watchmaker that rebuilds mechanical watches should be able to press it in. Acrylic watch crystals are often a press fit and the plastic is to be deformed slightly to engage then loosen up to bind in place.
I saw this done once and was surprised/impressed.
I saw this done once and was surprised/impressed.
#7718
Learning To Fly
Had my riding buddy’s 86 Panasonic DX-5000 on the stand today. Performed a bearing service on the rear hub and had to grind down the rear reflector mount with a dremel to accommodate a larger tire. We tried to replace the freewheel but realized that the hub is Italian threaded. Campy hubs and mavic rims. No biggie, the 5 speed he has on there purrs like a kitten and I got to keep the 6 speed. Don’t know much about the bike but it looks the business to me. Shimano 600 group. It’s definitely lived a full life and I was happy to help keep it rolling.
The lighting does not do the beautiful lavender color justice.
The lighting does not do the beautiful lavender color justice.
Likes For cjefferds:
#7719
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 438 Times
in
254 Posts
The reason I have a reflector is that it's a legal requirement in the UK and so are rear and front lights after sunset. The reason I have two rear lights is that if battery in one goes flat, I still have a backup. I do also have more than one reflector at the back, in the form of a reflective red tape underneath the saddle. In case someone gets a silly idea of stealing the main reflector. Though in all fairness, they are more likely to take the whole seatpost and a saddle.
Likes For VintageSteelEU:
#7720
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: WNY
Posts: 445
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 177 Post(s)
Liked 316 Times
in
163 Posts
Can you treat the pin as you would a rivet in a chain and only drive it out enough to separate the two parts of the clamp?
__________________
72+76 Super Course, 74 P-10+ 79 Tandem Paramounts, 84 Raleigh Alyeska, 84 Voyageur SP, 85 Miyata Sport 10 mixte and a queue
72+76 Super Course, 74 P-10+ 79 Tandem Paramounts, 84 Raleigh Alyeska, 84 Voyageur SP, 85 Miyata Sport 10 mixte and a queue
#7721
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 438 Times
in
254 Posts
Spidel LS2 brakes arrived. In a pretty decent condition, but still decided to take them apart and give them a bit of an overhaul. Which was a good decision, they are working very nicely indeed now. Very smooth. They are designed pretty well and the finish is quite good. Brass bushings and 3 nylon washers for the pivot bolt. Not the lightest, at 345g with pads and tyre guides, but not too bad.
I'd say they wouldn't be far off compared with Suntour Superbe originally planned for this build. I especially like the mounting bolt, it's a brilliant idea. The pivot bolt of the brakes doubles as a nut for the mounting bolt. Which means that I can easily replace the mounting bolt, say, if I wanted to use a titanium one (not that it would affect the weight by much). And it gives a very clean look when mounted on the frame.
Sadly, they don't have cable adjusters. I understand they were made by Mafac and Mafac had cable adjusters on their levers. But then I don't really use cable adjusters much anyway, so this shouldn't be an issue with other brake levers (I'm still planning to use Suntour Superbe ones).
Now the next step will be modifying the stem to fit the French steerer tube, hopefully will manage to do that tomorrow. Progress is slower than I would have liked, but there is some progress nevertheless.
Before. Not bad at all. Ugly modern brake pads were tossed away.
A bit cleaner, much smoother and ready to go on the frame.
I'd say they wouldn't be far off compared with Suntour Superbe originally planned for this build. I especially like the mounting bolt, it's a brilliant idea. The pivot bolt of the brakes doubles as a nut for the mounting bolt. Which means that I can easily replace the mounting bolt, say, if I wanted to use a titanium one (not that it would affect the weight by much). And it gives a very clean look when mounted on the frame.
Sadly, they don't have cable adjusters. I understand they were made by Mafac and Mafac had cable adjusters on their levers. But then I don't really use cable adjusters much anyway, so this shouldn't be an issue with other brake levers (I'm still planning to use Suntour Superbe ones).
Now the next step will be modifying the stem to fit the French steerer tube, hopefully will manage to do that tomorrow. Progress is slower than I would have liked, but there is some progress nevertheless.
Before. Not bad at all. Ugly modern brake pads were tossed away.
A bit cleaner, much smoother and ready to go on the frame.
Likes For VintageSteelEU:
#7722
Hoards Thumbshifters
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Signal Mountain, TN
Posts: 1,157
Bikes: '23 Black Mtn MC, '87 Bruce Gordon Chinook, '08 Jamis Aurora, '86 Trek 560, '97 Mongoose Rockadile, & '91 Trek 750
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 246 Post(s)
Liked 339 Times
in
193 Posts
Progress
#7723
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,688
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,
Mentioned: 156 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2331 Post(s)
Liked 5,020 Times
in
1,786 Posts
Messed around more with the Kamra bike last night while waiting for a buyer come bike to look at a different one. Tore down the headset, degreased it, cleaned off some surface rust, polished the chrome, lubed 'er up, and put it back together. Took a couple of whacks at the stuck seat post with a small sledge hammer but it's holding on strong, LOL!
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
Likes For jamesdak:
#7724
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Idaho, USA
Posts: 224
Bikes: Aluminum and Steel
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 388 Times
in
145 Posts
Reassembled the 74 Continental seat assembly. Working on polishing the paint in preparation for new decals. Doing the areas for the decals has led me to the entire frame. I don’t know if my level of “restification” is appropriate as the overall condition has its share of paint chips and deep scratches. I’m using a fine polish and not getting in a hurry. The fork decals wiped right off with a simple cleaning. The ND side down tube decals took a bit of polishing, but the decal was mostly gone. The DS and seat post decals are going to take me a bit longer.
__________________
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
#7725
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,876
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2460 Post(s)
Liked 3,171 Times
in
1,998 Posts
Trek 720 complete
Delivering three bikes to a friend tomorrow (N-3) at long last. Two have been built and sitting in my garage.
The 720 became a project after he happened to ask for his daughter.
It was completely mauled paint wise on the top tube and chain stays. After some creative paint and nail polish solutions it passes the 6 foot test okay.
A little bling.
Drive train is a 2x8. Had an STX rear derailleur that was great until I saw the cage bent. Had a light action LC so...
Oryx brakes front and rear. They are dialed i !
Friction shifters (Shimano something)
The 720 became a project after he happened to ask for his daughter.
It was completely mauled paint wise on the top tube and chain stays. After some creative paint and nail polish solutions it passes the 6 foot test okay.
A little bling.
Drive train is a 2x8. Had an STX rear derailleur that was great until I saw the cage bent. Had a light action LC so...
Oryx brakes front and rear. They are dialed i !
Friction shifters (Shimano something)
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
Likes For jdawginsc: