Home Depot substitute for brake cable end crimps?
#26
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Those are soooo tempting.
Makes me wondering if some locking pin backs (they've got set screws like those) would work. I'm not sure if the holes through them are the right size, but I don't want to cut the ends off my cables to try. I bought an excessive number of those by mistake once...
Makes me wondering if some locking pin backs (they've got set screws like those) would work. I'm not sure if the holes through them are the right size, but I don't want to cut the ends off my cables to try. I bought an excessive number of those by mistake once...
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I welded a cable end once just to see how easy it was. My welder is lift-arc and it was annoying difficult to get my arc started because, you know, it's a flexible cable. I think I used the lowest possible amperage for the shortest possible time and it worked a treat. Obviously not in any way worth the trouble.
It hasn't been perfect, but generally not bad. It only takes a second to get the end welded, hopefully without a ball, so the wire can be pulled and reused.
#28
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Ha, I just tried the one time and went back to using crimps. It was easy but like you said I balled up the end slightly and had to file a bit to get it through new housing. I felt like it wasn't worth the argon, let alone the set-up time but it definitely looks nice and clean.
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#30
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Have switched to heat shrink and the major benefit is that it’s application does not bent the cable end — meaning when you remove a crimp many times the cable end is buggered and that matters if you ever have adjustments to make that require pulling the cable and hoping to reuse it. Hard to reuse frayed cable ends as they don’t thread though housings easily.
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In all the years of messing with bicycles, I've never entertained the idea to reinstall a cable that was previously fully installed through shifter housing during scheduled maintenance after the factory end was removed. If that cable had to come back out from the shifter housing, it went into the trash. Cables & housing was cheap, & pride is expensive... No one wants to make the on-the-road call from being a cheapskate.
Disclaimer* This was common practice prior to the supply chain disruptions.
Disclaimer* This was common practice prior to the supply chain disruptions.
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#32
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Maybe I adjust and tinker a lot. Switch a handlebar here or a derailleur there ;-)
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https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass...t-shot-weights
1/50oz is about the smallest I've seen at a local sports store.
1/50oz is about the smallest I've seen at a local sports store.
They come in packs of 20, 50, or 100. I do a lot of cabling, so usually order 100 at a time.
You need a crimping tool, but those are readily available, because everyone who fishes with wire leaders has at least one. I've been using the old one that the Bell telephone repair guys used to use, because I like old tools and it works very well. There are always a lot of them for sale on Ebay, because there are no more Bell phone repairmen.
These are steel crimps, so they crimp on more firmly than the aluminum ones commonly sold for bicycle cables. Usually not important, but it comes in handy if you are replacing a cable in a SA 3 speed shifter setup, and you want a clean look in a custom replacement cable and housing.
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Dang, I was going to offer to mail you a couple if you PM me your name and address, but after I checked, I realized I had bought a pack of 100 Shimano derailleur cable end caps.
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I am now in the camp of a drop of super glue with the cable end slid on. To remove, I use a pair of pliers and a tap with a hammer on the pliers.
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#37
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...I have been buying and using wire crimps from the fishing tackle store on both brake and derailleur cables for years now. They come in different sizes, and the smaller diameter on derailleur cables works better with a smaller size (I forget which I use, maybe a #3, and a #4 for brake cables ? Anyway, you can measure for yourself.)
They come in packs of 20, 50, or 100. I do a lot of cabling, so usually order 100 at a time.
You need a crimping tool, but those are readily available, because everyone who fishes with wire leaders has at least one. I've been using the old one that the Bell telephone repair guys used to use, because I like old tools and it works very well. There are always a lot of them for sale on Ebay, because there are no more Bell phone repairmen.
These are steel crimps, so they crimp on more firmly than the aluminum ones commonly sold for bicycle cables. Usually not important, but it comes in handy if you are replacing a cable in a SA 3 speed shifter setup, and you want a clean look in a custom replacement cable and housing.
They come in packs of 20, 50, or 100. I do a lot of cabling, so usually order 100 at a time.
You need a crimping tool, but those are readily available, because everyone who fishes with wire leaders has at least one. I've been using the old one that the Bell telephone repair guys used to use, because I like old tools and it works very well. There are always a lot of them for sale on Ebay, because there are no more Bell phone repairmen.
These are steel crimps, so they crimp on more firmly than the aluminum ones commonly sold for bicycle cables. Usually not important, but it comes in handy if you are replacing a cable in a SA 3 speed shifter setup, and you want a clean look in a custom replacement cable and housing.
I've been wanting to experiment with the one's at the local store to see if they would close more effectively around a shift cable end with some open flame. Closing cold works, but they could look a little better without the gnarly gap IMO..
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#38
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A bit of gel super glue works great. I even have had semi frayed ends that I was able to get back in shape by gluing and twisting with some rubber gloves on. All this because I didn't have the end pieces in the first place lol.
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#41
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You can also press on split lead fishing weights - little balls of lead with a split in them, should be able to pick up at just about any sporting goods store selling fishing stuff. The lead is soft enough to conform tightly around the cable and form a little ball at the end.
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One late evening session I discovered that the insulation off a single-strand 1.5mm2 electrical cable is an excellent fit for brake cables. Not as much for shifter cables. I have, on occasion, also used heat shrink tubing, discarded spoke nipples and tiny pop rivets. Never done the super glue thing.
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Goop automotive glue works.
It also breaks away easily with pliers if you need to work on a component...
It also breaks away easily with pliers if you need to work on a component...
Last edited by curbtender; 04-20-22 at 04:02 PM.
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I'm still using the package of 100 crimps bought on eBay a couple years ago for $2.28.
If you want, I can send you a couple. Just include $20 for shipping+handling.
If you want, I can send you a couple. Just include $20 for shipping+handling.
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Instead of using super-glue (alpahcyanoacrylate glue), try using epoxy. I use JB Weld. While super glue is strong, it is also more brittle than JB Weld. You need to apply epoxy to the dry un-greased new cable. If done properly you can still withdraw the wire back out of the housing if needed. Interesting fact: The first time I heard of alphacyanoacrylate glue is when a mortician asked me if I new of a cheaper sources for it. That's back when it first came out and he was being charged around $20 for the same size tube you get today for a dollar or so. They use it to glue eyes shut and mouth closed.
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Who the hell needs Home Depot? I have used a gummy bear on one bike for 10+ years. Still there. And some day I am going to eat it.
#49
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I just bought a package of colored crimps that'll last me forever. I used a lot of the blue ones already as I have 2 bikes that use blue.