Bianchigirll 

I hope you're up and around soon. I wish I knew how runa lathe. I've seen lots of videos and could likely do it but never really had the chance. I've been watching this YouTuber out of Austrailia rebuilding these YUGE hydraulic cylinders, it;'s simply amazing.

daverup 

83 Pro Miyata, not quite done.

VintageSteelEU

They now have a sale going on in the UK, though Paselas are not part of it. I've been using Race C Evo 4 for some time and I like them, so today got a pair of Gravelking Slick Folding in 700x26c. Mostly because they were on sale, come in gumwall version and are supposed to be decent.
I do agree about the logo on Paselas. Would be nicer if they skipped the blue and white and just had a simple inscription in black.

brewerkz 

Bianchigirll 

brewerkz Great looking frame. Cool lure collection. You know the origianl Creek Chub factory is right up the road here in Garret In?

brewerkz 

Yes, one of the "big five" fishing lure companies. I like smaller companies, here is my website.

https://www.folkartfishingtackle.com/

Bianchigirll 

WOW I've never heard of these but I'm sure they were from long before I was fishing, or maybe born. My brother owns a bait and tackle shop in Hanover Pa and I'm going to pass your webpage on to him.

I don't know how old this is but it looks a little like a Jitterbug or Hula Popper

cinelliguy 

1982 Appel #58 - Purchased frameset from a really great member of the C&V community. Over the last couple of weeks built it up as a modernized vintage rider. Gearing is a 13-32 Chorus cassette and IRD Defiant compact 175mm crankset, Campagnolo skeleton dual pivot rim brakes, modified NR seat post, and assorted other parts. Great bike, thanks again to the seller AK in Michigan.

VintageSteelEU

Awesome! And it even looks my size...

Insidious C. 

In my pre-teen years I was interested in artificial lures. I decided to make my own "popper" which from my memory looked much like the vintage hand carved/painted lures on your site. I tried it out at a nearby pond where kids could catch Blue Gill and Sunfish. Within a few minutes I caught my first-ever Largemouth Bass, which I did not know even existed in that little pond. That was a really big deal to me at the time and a great memory still.

Prowler 

In “the 60’s” my father was into fly fishing and tied his own flies. I learned too and tied my own. Most of them are still stuck up in the birch trees along Schoharie Creek in upstate NY. I cannot recall ever catching anything with them but enjoyed that time with Dad.

ollo_ollo

Similar memories acquiring, loading/unloading my Delta lathe. Got a stand from another CL ad @ $50 for a tiny Montgomery Wards hobby lathe, pictured in bed of P.U., with just 1 corner of massive Duro cast iron leg stand it was mounted on showing. A collector gave me 50 for the little toy lathe so free stand!


Get all that vintage iron you can! We don't really own it, just conservators. I'm well into my 8th decade, recently downsized and passed the lathe on to a friend of my son. He thanked me for saving it.

bikamper

Good on ya.
I'm doing just that. My biggest hunk o' iron is a 1948 DeSoto that will be passed on to one of the grandkids. Another will get the 1885 Walthem pocket watch that was my great grandfathers'.

So I graduated to an Aircast/walking boot.

Grandsons will be PO'd that they can't draw on it but Grandma does have the Sharpie equivalent of the box of 64 Crayola crayons the rich kids had in grade school. I'm hoping I can hobble out to the garage this weekend and get some things checked out on the lathe.

Mad Honk 

Just like Bianchigirll I have been cleaning the truck out. But a large portion will likely go to the recycle biz here instead of staying here it the shop. What is worth saving is going to go forward to ehcoplex since he doesn't have a co-op near him. Think of a pay it forward Box O' Crap to a member who needs some enabling as a C&V-er. Some pics:

I started with the scrap metal bucket to sort out the aluminum from the steel, and found a few gems ZB: an anodized Modolo caliper with a drop bolt, that got thrown out because it had some rust on it.

Next up is the wheel collection which will yield up a few nice Shimano hubs, and hopefully a nice Araya rim.

And of course the usual batch of frames that will be regular scrap steel.
Is the Tourney caliper worth pulling out of the mix? Smiles, MH

Classtime 

You've likely thought of this but: 1 1/8 inch stems are worth keeping out of the smelter.

Mad Honk 

Classtime ,
The co-op is about 2000 SF that is packed with bikes and parts. About once a month I pick up the broken and damaged things that are in need of recycling and off to the metal scrap yard they go. All of that stuff in the bed is pretty much borked and has no useful life left. There weren't any non steel parts for a cockpit in the pile. All of that when broken down to rims and steel was worth $33, which just covered the cost of driving to the scrapyard and unloading it. A few small parts were saved but things like freewheels were not saved. They are normally worn out or skip, and the few hubs that are complete will go into the: for parts, bin. Smiles, MH

79pmooney

Tomorrow I have an appointment with Ti Cycles to have the Pro Miyata I recently received from @Kilroy1988 checked for alignment, dropouts, HS surfaces and have the chain peg boss tapped out. And Dave Levy's eyes on it. I suspect this will be unnecessary except for the chain peg. And I could do the drilling and tapping but Dave is far, far better at that stuff! Yes, I pay for his work but is almost worth it just to watch a master at work. And, I am pretty sure the bike needs a new headset. I have it and the Park cup remover. Made a very good cup press. Works on crowns too. But getting crowns off cleanly isn't fun. Ti Cycles has that super crown remover that does it in 3 minutes. Like - you hand the fork to Dave and three minutes later he hands you the old race.

This frame is to replace the identical frame I picked up from a BF two years ago. Identical except chain peg detail and paint - this is a repaint and a tiny bit more green. Original or very good copy decals. And this is not a rust bucket. (The rust on the previous was very well documented. I knew full well. I wanted "the ride" and I got it in spades!)

The bike will be a mishmash of some original parts, some period parts and some parts that are newer, very nice and should work very well for fit (to both me and the bike), function and weight. And since a least a couple of you are bike geeks, the build:

Wheels: GP4s laced 3X to LF 126 FW hubs. Front perhaps NR. Rear is probably a Taiwanese later FW hub. (Room for improvement there but the wheels ride and work just fine! DT Revs or Sapim, Competition on the RR. Vittoria 25c front, 23c rear Corsa G+ tubbies.

Or - GEL330s with Veloflex tubbies, same sizes. Equivalent hubs and FW. "Race wheels!" Fun, fun, fun! They take me back.

Drive train: Campy Chorus? triple, 52-42-30, SRAM 8 chain, 13-26 7-speed Sedis/SRAM FW. Superbe FD (assuming it can handle the triple; Cyclone MII if cannot), Cyclone GT rear. (Anybody know of Superbe GT cages?) Forte Delta compatible pedals because that is on all of my geared road bikes. Black cleats. (I ride float and a doc gets my knees.) Shifted by SunTour Symmetric top mounted DT. A wood "finger guard" of exotic woods under the DT to keep my right index (and other) fingers off the front tire when I shift. My motion is different with the top-mounted shifters than the old side-by-side DTs. With generous tire clearances, NBD. This bike isn't generous! I do a bone crunching jam every ride without that guard! And I suffer a major case of old dogs and new tricks.

DiaCompe original Superbe style side pulls. Haven't use them yet. If I don't like 'em, the same size (super short!) Cyclones will go on.

SunTour seatpost; 2-bolt. Looks simpler, greyer and newer than the rest of the build but is a pure joy to adjust and weighs 200 gm! Specialized older, hard and minimal saddle - because it works under me really well! Week long Cycle Oregon last year - never thought about.

Cockpit: I am going to try a stainless steel! Nitto 135 mm quill with a little less than 17 degree angle. (Light! 216 gm) If that is too close I'll go back to the no-name black painted steel 140 I've been using that fits just right. Bars are unknown, TTT style "V" shape bend only with more reach. Fit is a joy. Tektro V-brake levers. Again on fit! Black cloth tape because my racing bikes get black cloth tape. I'm old now so two layers.

King SS cages. Bike came to me with beautiful yellow braided-like brake cable housings that I am going to try to use. (The stem I am going to use is a lot longer so we'll see. Fallback is black.) Ortleib 2 saddle bag with (2) Rally spares, a roll of tape and some glue. I've been doing both glue and tape and don't keep track of what wheels have what. Wheels go bike to bike. Black Zephal HPX pump.

Except brakes, FD and stem, this is what I rode for CO. So it's proven. And that previous rust bucket with its acre of custom sometimes matched, more often mismatched fingernail polish was a pure joy all week! (RD is now upgraded to a much newer Cyclone GT with like-new springs so that's step up.

sd5782 

I got a very neglected 1984? Torpado Nuovo Sprint nearly 3 years ago. It was cheap as it had a stuck seatpost that the flipper owner was able to remove but with damage to the seatpost. I believe it is all original right down to the reflectors and even the tires. It’s even my size.











It had been stored poorly in an outdoor shed. The guy I bought it from was a small town bike flipper guy, and this wasn’t his area of expertise. With the Aelle tubing, this isn’t a prize, so it has been sitting in my possession for awhile. With winter dragging on, I was looking for a project. It will need touch up paint and lots of elbow grease. I doubt it has been ridden for a very long time as in decades. The original tires even have nearly all of their tread. I think this one was ridden a bit for 5-10 years and then put away. This one will be too sporty for me, but it looks like an interesting project. I do need to find a Regina freewheel tool. I think my local co-op may have one. 20mm tires aren’t my thing, but perhaps a fun project and maybe sell it for cheap then.

Mad Honk 

Use Quick Glo chrome polish and clean it up! If it fits you it will ride nicely and looks like it will be just like an overhaul to get looking good again. Smiles, MH

VintageSteelEU

It looks like a decently made frame though. Nice colour combo too. All looks like it will clean up well to, no deep damage to the chrome. And if it's Aelle, then perhaps even better. At least it will be sturdy, would make a very good commuter bike. There seems to be enough clearance for much thicker tyres, like 700x28c. But you can find comfy 700x25 or 26c.

sd5782 

It is cleaning up pretty good. It looks like plenty of room for possibly even 28s as you mentioned. No dimples in chainstays. I would probably leave it with some narrower tires though and just have a little fun with it and probably sell it. I am in my later 60s and like my comfy sport tourers best. This will be a fun project though. I do see on eBay that the suede Selle San Marco Corsair that is on it is fairly desirable though.

VintageSteelEU

Fair enough. It should sell fairly easily.
Yeah, as for the saddle, late 70's saddles can get crazy prices sometimes, when in a good condition. Thankfully, got Turbo on one bicycle, new Regale Evo on another and San Marco Concor, San Marco Tuono and another Turbo stashed away, that should be enough for whatever bicycles I might be building up for a while

sd5782 

A new one for me on the brake cable outers. One was kinked near the a cable guide, so I cut it off thinking to replace it of course. It was quite springy and flexible. It seems these cable outers are not coiled flat steel, but rather sheathed coil like one often sees at the RD and perhaps at the shifters with barcons. I would have thought it would add lots of compressibility to the brake feel. I was planning on new cables at least anyhow. The steerer on this tre tubi Aelle has no rifling either as that must be reserved for the fancier steel. 1.7# fork weight and 4.8 for the frame with fixed cup and headset.

RCMoeur 

Spending a beautiful afternoon recovering from a stressful week, listening to quiet music extracted from my son's video games, waxing the chain on my big ol' Schwinn cruiser, and taking out my angst on some old bikes what need dismantling.



I'm beginning to suspect this fork may have at one time been in some sort of a collision.



Not much left to take apart on this one...

Prowler 

I'm not too fussy about historically accurate pedals as all my bikes are daily riders. I'm interested in functional pedals but still prefer steel toe cages and leather straps. I've come across decent pedals on average bikes that are in good condition as they've really had few miles on them. Recreational use only. Some are or look like MKS CR-2 pedals:

From "sidelineswap" website

Decent condition and good bearings that all need an overhaul. Also about 105mm end to end which fits my feet, and both end caps still screwed in place. But I've no use for the huge reflectors and frames dangling down front and back. So I overhaul the bearings and chop off the dangle bits. I then fabricate loops from salvaged stainless spokes which fit into the pedals and up behind the mounting screws for the toe cages. They help flip the pedals over and help my shoe slide up into the cage. I've also taken to cutting a bash guard out of a bit of harness leather for the left pedal. As I mount the bike and push off with the right pedal, the left pedal will, on occasion, swing down and scrape the top of the cage on the pavement before I can pick it up and head off. The leather is sacrificial. There are no inboard slots for the toe strap to feed through (the people who bought those bikes had no interest in straps) so a couple of small black zip ties hold the strap in place. No one has ever knelt down to inspect them and point out the bodge.



".......cause you may know somebody in a similar situation, or you may be in a similar situation...."