Homemade threaded headset press suggestions
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Homemade threaded headset press suggestions
I've seen a few ideas on the Internet but wanted to get some real world advice. Has anyone put together and inexpensive homemade headset press for 1" threaded headsets? Care to share your creation? Thanks-
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...I don't have a photo, but the first one I put together was an 18" length of 1/2" all thread rod, with large fender washers to press the cups. Smaller washers between those and the nuts that drive the washers to press are the rest of it. It's more awkward to use than a real headset press, but works well enough for occasional home use with regular (not exotic) headsets.
...I don't have a photo, but the first one I put together was an 18" length of 1/2" all thread rod, with large fender washers to press the cups. Smaller washers between those and the nuts that drive the washers to press are the rest of it. It's more awkward to use than a real headset press, but works well enough for occasional home use with regular (not exotic) headsets.
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like this
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Otherwise, it worked fine. The eventual headset press that I bought only cost 40 or 50 bucks, from Bike Nashbar. If you're concerned about this issue, a real headset press does work better (less fiddling with the setup). There are other designs online that use copper plumbing pipe fittings to center the cups as you press.
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Mine is the same except I epoxied the big washers to keep them from sliding around
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I use that but take it a step further. I use 3/4" rod. Prevailing torque nuts; nuts with chrome and almost acorn-like treatment at one end as well as a Nylock-like liner. The torque and liner features don't matter but the shape is superb here. Basically a more stylish nut with un-necessary anti-vibration. Over the rod I slip 3/4" sch 40 pipe. I cut them at 5 1/2" and (2) 1/2" short pieces.
I turn the nuts nice side in. The rounded surface fits very nicely on the headset race AND self centers. The pipe is an almost snug fit in the headtube (old-fashioned 1") and keeps the washer end on the headtube centered. The washers for 3/4" rod don't distort. (I use two. Probably overkill but hey!) Those nuts are a joy to put a big crescent on and tighten and the setup is near idiot proof. Completely first class. (And you can tuck it in your jersey pocket for very large dogs. Unlike a pump. this will survive and be ready for its companion. Might stretch the jersey fabric.)
I have the rod, pipe segments, 2 washers, 2 fancy nuts and 2 regular hex nuts; all made up like 3A's. I haven't done a headset in a few years so I forget what all the pieces are for but all have been used. I know if I go to a very different headtube length, I'll need a different pipe length. (My bikes center around 59 cm.) 3/4" sch 40 is about as easy to find as it gets so when I grow into that 68 cm frame, no issues.
I turn the nuts nice side in. The rounded surface fits very nicely on the headset race AND self centers. The pipe is an almost snug fit in the headtube (old-fashioned 1") and keeps the washer end on the headtube centered. The washers for 3/4" rod don't distort. (I use two. Probably overkill but hey!) Those nuts are a joy to put a big crescent on and tighten and the setup is near idiot proof. Completely first class. (And you can tuck it in your jersey pocket for very large dogs. Unlike a pump. this will survive and be ready for its companion. Might stretch the jersey fabric.)
I have the rod, pipe segments, 2 washers, 2 fancy nuts and 2 regular hex nuts; all made up like 3A's. I haven't done a headset in a few years so I forget what all the pieces are for but all have been used. I know if I go to a very different headtube length, I'll need a different pipe length. (My bikes center around 59 cm.) 3/4" sch 40 is about as easy to find as it gets so when I grow into that 68 cm frame, no issues.
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...you grease the interior surfaces of the head tube, and the exterior surfaces of the cup flanges that insert. You do need to watch that they are going in straight a little closer than with a made to order headset press, and I would not use such a press on anything exotic, like some headset with sealed bearings like a Chris King. At the time I was using it, I was mostly removing and reinstalling steel headsets.
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The one that 3alarmer showed works but I’d spring for either the Park step bushing or something like the Chris King adapter. The step bushing is really the brilliant bit of the Park headset press.
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Now that I did a little more research I think for the time and energy it would take to make a homemade one it probably just makes sense to buy this one for $30: https://www.amazon.com/Acekit-Headse...7NJ1CNM9&psc=1
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Yes. It pushes on the bottom of the cup instead of the sides like a washer would. It also resists bending unlike the washers. The King adapter actually does push on the sides of the cup but it’s supposed to be used on cartridge bearings where pushing on the center of the bearing is bad.
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Now that I did a little more research I think for the time and energy it would take to make a homemade one it probably just makes sense to buy this one for $30: https://www.amazon.com/Acekit-Headse...7NJ1CNM9&psc=1
...the length of the bolt on that press (9.6") will limit the use of it to bicycles with head tubes shorter than that.
There was one guy who bought a press, who started a thread here asking why he couldn't get it to work.
If the bicycles you are working on are all small enough in head tube length, it will be fine. It would not work on some of my bikes.
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