Chesterton

So I was readjusting the chain tension by pulling the wheel back in the rear fork ends, and when tightening things up I guess I overtorqued the left axle nut and stripped the threads. I can only get it a little past finger-tight now, and any additional torque just slips the nut back again.

Am I safe in assuming the nuts are intentionally made to be softer than the axle, and therefore I should be able to just replace the nut? This is a Sturmey-Archer X-RD5 hub and I'm not sure I'm quite ready to break down and rebuild the hub with a new axle...

Sixty Fiver

SA nuts are softer than the axle and the combination of this and the interrupted thread is what makes them easier to strip... a good shop should stock replacement nuts and it is always a good idea to carry a spare.

They are 13/32 and 26tpi so aren't something you will find at the hardware store.

Wiring it under the saddle is always a good place to keep it.

You can use the drive side guide nuts in place of the stock nut if you can't find a non drive spare.

Using a really good anti rotation washer, making sure the nut is not over-torqued, and making sure the threads have a little light oil goes a long way to keeping the nut from stripping.

Chesterton

Thanks, glad to hear the axle isn't likely to be stripped. I've been good about keeping the threads greased, but I guess I'm just learning the practical way about appropriate torque levels. I do have a torque wrench but my 15mm socket doesn't fit over the dome nuts.

Sixty Fiver

That is why you need a small English spanner... they come in right and left hand versions so make sure you get the proper one for your hand.