Bianchigirll 

What are these? I thought my Ticino hubs were the Cat's Pajamas but yeah this are, as they say in Baston, "Wicked Pisser"

Bergz

I spent a wet afternoon cleaning up this old fork for re brazing. Looks much better in real life... I'm hoping my friend John can braze it for me, he has oxy/acetalene so far more heat than my Mapp torch can muster.
Seems to be a cast crown, anyone know what it is?

bertinjim 

Yours may be a Wagner DP fork crown:

Nemosengineer 

Hi Bianchigirll,
The hubs are available here... https://www.lllco.url.tw/product.html P/N LS-62. The hubs are made in Taiwan, the quality is good, their products are well supported I ordered a spare free hub, no issues.
The mechanical design is simple and it only takes two allen wrenches to break down the hubs, sealed cartridge bearings, easy service.
The design and size is very similar to the Curtis Odom hubs on my Bob Jackson World Tour, just 1/3 the cost and also available on Ebay.

20160220_134103 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

NVFlinch 

Built up my new Centurion Cinelli frame, but it's too ugly still to take pics of (no bar tape, mismatched (shudder) tires, etc. Rides nice though. And dang! 30mm rear tires fit with plenty of room, and 28mm front.

Bergz

Thanks so much, that looks exactly like it!
Hope to have it brazed back together within a week, progress pictures to come.
Much appreciated.

Mr. 66

The 1977 MKM is back on the road. Reynolds 531 26.8? Seatpost I think. High flange Campy on Weinman convex 27" rims with chrome double butted spokes. Double triple, cranks and very rare rear derailleur Suntour XC Spork. The front derailleur is Suntour Mountec. The brakes are Diacomp with Cyclone levers. Sedis chain with Regina freewheel.



The Specialized tires are courtesy from the RiddleOfSteel

Please forgive me for I have sinned, the chainrings are biopace.

Arktiger

Just finished this up today. I believe this is a 1969 or 1970 Peugeot PX10. The shifters and front derailleur are not original. I overhauled it and put it back together using the components as it came when I purchased it. Had to work on the rear derailleur and replaced the back rim. Rode it today for the first time and seems to be working well.

SoCaled 

Went to go for a ride on the Cimmaron and when I pumped up the tires I noticed a nasty split in the side wall of the tire, that I had not seen before. Tires had plenty of tread when I bought the bike and did not seem very old? Well that's what I get for not doing a proper inspection, lucky this didn't blow out on a previous ride.






So now I do Tires (didn't think I needed to) and Wheel bearings (hadn't gotten to it yet) on my Cimmaron. Anyone know how to find the closed position on these grease ports? hard to see in my pic, but there is an arrow for "open" but not any indication of a start or stop? I tried various position they all seem "open"

spclark 

Studying up for my first go at building a pair of wheels. Using a set of Ukai rims I bought off eBay, hubs an identical pair of Campy NR wide-flange (eBay again) like the pair that came with my MB GR back in '72. Ukai rims are Very Slightly smaller diameter than the tubular Mavics the MB's carried since Day 1, so I understand I'll have to drop the brake pad carriers ~ 3/16". There's room on the calipers for that. All just to try a set of clinchers, my first since high school days before I earned a driver's license.

Approaching 75 I'm still motivated to try new things even if it means I have to find/buy/borrow tools. I'll save learning how to approach bleeding my Kona's brakes for next spring.

Classtime 

Maybe Ukai rims are different but I can go back and forth between old school Mavic tubulars and various makes of clinchers without adjusting the brakes. 3/16" seems like a lot.

NDL

Bianchi rebuild, ran into problem with crown race size (JIS VS ISO) and step down ferrule size, finally completed the build though.
This is the final part of the build video on youtube if anyone interested.

Nemosengineer 

Land Shark progress. Headset, bits and pieces installed, and mocking up the cockpit.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

rccardr 

Your bike stand is classier than mine. Jealous.

Classtime 

The last time that I stripped a frame for painting, the product label contained a warning about methylene chloride. No such luck today🙁



Second coat doing something maybe?

merziac

Warm it up, hair dryer or heat gun with plenty of ventilation and stiff wire welding brush.

Sunlight accelerates the process much with its warm too, I've had the stuff melt off with the right timing and patience.

I slather it on and wait, then slather on some more to reactivate the first coat, wait slather again and scrub away using the brush with the stripper.

Mr. 66

Yes as above, wire brush to help dig in. Heavy steel wool rub will gobble up all that has softened

JaccoW

I'm making headway into a certain wheel build... but I am running out of spoke nipples at this rate.
Give me lightweight triple butted spokes over 13G (2.3mm) straight stainless steel spokes any day...

Oh, and I accidentally annoyed my downstairs neighbour. Found out the hard way that I need a longer seatpost.




Some cool details with the fenders and drivetrain. It has the classic Gazelle crankset and especially the skirt guards have some cool details like these clips. More tomorrow as I clean and derust the rest of the bike.

mackgoo

My latest acquisition.


The process.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/146002...h/53261791088/

repechage

I have had success by wrapping the applied goop in Saran Wrap to reduce evaporation, I thought it helped.
Yes, methylene chloride was dangerous and effective. The state of affairs in California. Paint thinner and mineral spirits are almost useless now too. Between the SCAQMD and Prop 65. Simple tasks like cleaning a chain and freewheel are no longer so. The way of things.

repechage

from the spoke nipple fragments, a good chance you are reaching max tension before the spoke has filled the nipple. Brass nipples are not that strong with no spoke supporting them internally.

georges1

Went to the bike shop Friday and gave all the other spare parts to get the Trek 6500 SLR and the Trek 6700SLR MTBs fully assembled. Installed this look carbon seat post on the Trek 2300, waiting for the 3t Mutant Stem and Bar, I might also purchase 3 pair of Dura Ace BR 7800 brakes for thisTrek, for the for the Veneto and the Canondale, plus 4 pairs of Dura Ace ST 7800 brifters and 4 additionnal Dura Ace CS -7800 10 speeds cassettes. Beside that I have two other MTB projects that need to be assembled and three bike upgrades to be done. But each thing in its time

JaccoW

Yeah max tension is probably part of the issue. Though every single one of these I had to remove from the back, sometimes drilling them out carefully. The spokes were inside the nipple and held on tight. They originally dug into the aluminium of the rims since these are unsleeved.
If all else fails I will be ordering slightly longer spokes next month and twice as many nipples.

Classtime 

For stripping the paint off this Motobecane LC, Citristrip works better than the current Jasco product.

spclark 

Hmmm... thanks for that. Your post caused me to take another look now that I have one of the donor Ukai's unlaced:

My MAVICS:


- are certainly 'old school' dating from Easter Sunday '72 when I rolled the bike out of the store on N. Clark St. in Chicago.

I'd read elsewhere (here) there's maybe a 4mm difference in wheel radius between rims of various specs, why I wasn't surprised to see this when I first compared the new wheels to what I've been riding off & on for over fifty years.

Just now, looking at a bare Ukai rim against one of my Mavics w/tire on, there's virtually NO discernible difference in diameter.

Comparing rim depths:

- it's readily apparent the Ukai is deeper, maybe where I was misled when I first compared the two?

New (to me) rim's decal.


Both rims' decals:


Noted rust in Ukai's spoke wells once I'd gotten wheel disassembled. Cleaning that up wasn't hard using a .30 cal. bronze bore brush chucked in a drill. What's a good way to clean up the outer bit rolled over onto the rim's inner face, w/o doing much to change the patina on the aluminum?

Or should I bother with that at all? They're 'used' after all, not new, bright $ shiny.