vmoore

what rear and front derailleur replacement can I get off of Amazon for my vintage huffy Mojave gulch 10 speed bike? id like a link with what to buy. 1 cable was replaced and it still wasn't working properly and my buddy said replace both derailleurs. BTW the bike has friction shifters

Arrowana

While there aren't pictures from enough angles to be certain, it looks like your derailleurs are probably in good enough shape to do their job correctly if properly adjusted. The issue here is that the cable and housing for them are in dire need of replacement, so the shifters can't tell the derailleurs what to do. Replace the cables and housing with help from here, then try your best to adjust the derailleurs with the info from here, and you will likely get something working. If not, then maybe look at new or used derailleurs. When redoing the rear housing, make sure to route the cable in front of the handlebar rather than behind it like it currently is. Spending the tiny bit extra for stainless steel cables will help prevent them from rusting out quickly.

Iride01 

From the photo, your biggest issue is the cable running to the rear RD is not routed or installed anywhere near correct. If you just bought that and can get your money back, I'd highly recommend that.

I suspect that the FD cable has similar issues but can't see any of that.

vmoore

omg I know the cables are bad we tried replacing one and it didn't work properly. lol that was on the list of what to buy. no If I have had someone In person that has worked a bit on this bike tell me to replace the derailleurs shouldn't I replace them?

Bill Kapaun

With friction shifting, most any Derailleurs should work.

That said, I've had experience with those shifters you have.
One was simply "locked up" and the other was extremely hard to turn. Instead of "clicks", it was more like "chunks".
I'd probably pick up some shifters like these-
https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10...SABEgJItvD_BwE

Study this to adjust the DER's-
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...&area%5B%5D=52

IF you can get the shifters to move smoothly over the full range, those cheap shifters should do the job.
IF you need to replace DER's, get Shimano Tourney.

Those brake calipers are so flimsy, learn how quickly you can stop with them BEFORE you need to.
One reason not to use any longer than necessary, BRAKE CABLES. The longer, the more "give" they have. Add your very flexy calipers....

Those brakes are actually the reason I bought my first wheel truing stand. IF you have to back off the brakes a bit to clear wheel "wobble", you don't have enough lever travel to brake hard. Even with the wheels running true, your brakes are pretty lacking.


IIRC, the front & rear both used 1/4" ball bearings, rather than the more common 3/16" in the front.
In any case, I'd service/examine/regrease the wheel bearings before invest much $ into the other stuff. If the hubs are shot, it won't last long.

Arrowana

Just because they think the derailleurs are the problem doesn't mean the derailleurs actually are the problem. If your friend has lots of experience working on many bikes, then there is a decent chance they are right. If they only have a bit of experience, then they might only have a slight idea of what they are talking about.

From what I can see, the derailleurs look fine. To check if the rear derailleur actually is fine, put the chain back onto a chainring and a rear cog, then look at the rear derailleur and cogs from the rear end of the bike. If the pulleys on the derailleur appear to be parallel with the cogs then it is probably fine. If the pulleys are not parallel with the cogs, then the derailleur is bent, though it might be worth trying to straighten it before reaching for a replacement. As an example, here is a derailleur where it's hanger is obviously bent.

JohnDThompson 

The first thing I'd do is check that the cables are moving smoothly in the housing. I do note from this picture that the rear derailleur cable housing appears to be far too long:


Ideally, the housing should be just long enough to get the cable to the anchor on the derailleur without causing any kinks or abrupt angles. The long housing on your bike has resulted in an abrupt angle where the housing abuts the derailleur. Trim it to a better length and be sure there isn't a burr on the end of the housing after you cut it. I like to dress the end of the housing on a bench grinder so it's nice a flat, perpendicular to the axis of the housing. If you don't have a bench grinder, a file will work. Use a pointed probe (I use a sharpened piece of a spoke, but anything small and pointed will work) to open the plastic liner, if any. If the cables are rusty or don't move freely, replace them, and the housing for best results. Then work on adjusting the derailleurs, as others have described above.

SoCaled 

Hate to be that guy, but with the state of the used bike market you can probably get a nicer, fully functioning bike for less than making this one work properly. Agree with above that your derailleurs, while not fancy, probably will work if serviced set-up properly. Looks like you will need at least one new tube, cables, brake pads and the labor to replace. If you are doing the labor yourself might be worth doing, if replacing the derailleurs it would be a waste of time and $$ IMHO. I would check your local Craigslist, Offerup, Facebook market place, etc and you will likely find a much nicer bike, in much nicer condition, for less than $100, in my market, much less.

50PlusCycling

Wow, that bike must be the most absolute bottom-end mountain bike ever made. From spot welded dropouts, steel side-pull calipers and rims, to the galvanized spokes. That said, it’s a perfectly rideable bike with a little work. I like old Huffys, I had a blast on them when I was a kid. Your Huffy is in far better shape than the Brompton I just started got in today.

Your bike looks to need nothing but a basic cleaning, cables, and adjustment. You can get the brake and derailleur cables from Amazon for less than $30, maybe $10 for new brake pads. The only tools you need are a wrench for clamping the ends of the cables and installing the brake shoes, and a good cable cutter which can cut your new brake cables without damaging them.

The chain, derailleur pivots and shifter will need to be oiled.

There are numerous videos on YouTube showing how to cut and install new cables, how to change the brake pads, and how to adjust everything. If I wanted a guinea pig bike to use to learn basic bike mechanics, I couldn’t ask for a better one than your Huffy.

veganbikes

I would do no more than adjust it and clean it and small bits of lubrication and greasing. I wouldn't put money towards that bike.

Outrider1

I second this idea. If you enjoy cycling, you'll be thrilled with anything else.

dedhed

I'd replace it with this derailleur.

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