MikeDeason

Hi, I am a relative novice who has been riding a beat-up 25yr old box store 12 speed and finally have the funds to upgrade. Is this a good choice for the money? This is about the max my budget will allow. I am looking for mostly a fitness bike to ride the city bike trails.

The forum wont let me post a link until 10 posts so its the

Aquila B-Drive Commuter Bike

$1700 with 0% financing

squirtdad

Compares as best I can tell (specs are not in high detail) https://aquilacycles.com/products/aquila-b-drive with the cannondale bad boy which is a bit more https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bik...-boy/bad-boy-1

overall it looks like it would meet your stated needs. double check for fender and rack mounts (think I see them, but IMHO important for commuting)

If you are buying direct, make sure you have a local bike shop to work on it if needed until you have all the skills and tools

badger1

Looks a perfectly good choice if you want the IGH/Gates belt drive. Have you ridden one yet -- can you try before buying?

You would also have Racer Sportif as your 'local bike shop' for support if you reside in the Toronto/Oakville area, given that Aquila is their house brand. Very reputable shop; been around a long time, and very likely to stand behind the stuff they sell should you have any issues.

Iride01 

What will make it a bad choice for you?

Welcome to BF.

If your riding on that city trail is going to be somewhat intense exercise and for 90 minutes or more at a time, I might would consider a road bike. But if you are limited to less time and slower paces, then anything is probably okay.

MikeDeason

So my main concern would be the belt drive since I've never heard of it until recently. How does the belt hold up in winter cold and wet weather?

Also, value for the $$$. This is an in-house brand so they wouldn't have the buying power of a big player like Specialized. What would be the Specialized equivalent? The descriptions of these bikes is like reading another language so its hard to compare.

I feel like there's three main upgrades

Belt vs chain drive

Automatic vs mechanical shifting

and disc vs calliper brakes.

The bike I posted above seems to have a belt drive with mechanical shifting and disc brakes.

Rick_D

I'll suggest having a look at the Spot Acme.
https://spotbikes.com/products/acme-bike
A little better spec'd and a very nice bike, throughout.
As a city bike, belt drive and geared hub are a nice way to go. Soooooo very quiet and smooth.
I would inquire locally as to a bike shop that can handle hub maintenance (oil changes) unless you have solid DIY skills. It's a necessary part of using the system. The belt itself is better for rain and grit than a chain system.

Rick

The Priority Eight is $800.00 cheaper with what looks like as good or better components. Priority bicycle makes belt drive only bicycles. They have other models like the PRIORITY CONTINUUM ONYX for $1249.00 that comes with lights and fenders.The PRIORITY APOLLO GRAVEL for 1999.00 has the alfine 11 speed. Priority Bicycle has excellent support with assembly videos for all there modeles.

Iride01 

Only a few of us probably have any experience with a belt drive bike. So YMMV on getting enough useful comment on them.

I don't really have anything against them other than I feel chains are more efficient. And since I've used chains for over 60 years on bikes and I DIY my own bikes for most things, chains aren't any big deal for me.

Though they say they last way longer than a chain ever will. So if you aren't a DIY type or don't want to mess with chains then I'd say go for it and find out. I've worked with other equipment in industrial settings that use gates belts or very similar. And those tinier belts were used in much harsher situations than I imagine you bike will ever see. But I don't know what to say for freezing conditions when exposed to the elements.

Here's what one article about them has to say. And mostly it's positive. https://www.cyclingabout.com/carbon-...m%2F19%2C000mi.

Flip Flop Rider

have never ridden or seen, for that matter, a belt drive bike besides online pics. IMO and it's worth what you're paying for it, bicycle chains do not need improving on. The machine is time tested

79pmooney

Gears - All shifting is manual in your price range but there are two fundamentally different systems. Derailleurs (which you might be calling "manual" and internally geared hubs (IGH) which this is. Derailleurs are those dangling things the chain runs a zig-zag through and the cluster of cogs on the rear wheel (and usually more than one chainring up front). IGH is all inside the rear hub with just a cable activating the gear changes.

Derailleurs - all racing bikes and nearly all performance bikes use derailleurs. Uses a narrow metal chain. Light, easy to arrange close gear ratio choices and modify those choices for different events. Vulnerable to damage. Requires frequent lubrication of chain. Chain gets very dirty. Requires knowledgeable setup and maintenance. Perhaps a shade more efficient when running at its best.

IGH - everything is inside the hub shell and protected from the elements and damage. Can be driven by either belt or chain. (But switching between the two would be expensive.) Bike must be built so it comes apart enough to remove the chain. Very simple to maintain. On most, one simple adjustment to keep an eye on. Virtually no maintenance on the belt and little beyond simple lubrication for the IGH for typically quite a few years.

Poor weather - the IGH rules! Yes, derailleurs have been ridden in everything the weather has to offer but there are more than a few horror stories. Derailleurs really do not like crashes. Sometimes even just the bike falling over. IGHs don't care.

Disc vs caliper - Completely different. Calipers use the wheel rim as the disc. Since it is so far from the axle, a not very strong caliper easily stops the bike using a lever operated cable. But - caliper brake suffer in the wet and need a rim in good condition to grab. Limit wheel and tire choices some. Mechanically simple. Nothing is hidden except inside the brake lever and that is pretty simple also. Discs are basically the same system cars use scaled to bicycles. Hydraulic hoses and caliper grabbing a motorcycle-like disc. More powerful by a enough that it has still more power even considering it does not have the leverage of the entire wheel like the caliper brake. Disc maintenance can be learned by anyone but it is not a simple look at it and adjust like calipers. With a qualified person doing the work (a bike shop) you get reliable stops in any weather. (Caliper brakes must be 1) good, powerful ones - a lot aren't), 2) set up properly and maintained closely and 3) ridden in the wet with the awareness that it will take a wheel turn or two to dry the rim and begin to slow down. (You can ride with a finger on the brake so the pads just touch to speed up braking but not a lot of people either know that you can do that or do it.)

And a caution on this particular bike regarding the brakes. On both the sites I went to, disc brake bikes were shown but the text called out Shimano caliper brakes. Examine this further! Talk to somebody; a real person. (The Shimano calipers are probably excellent, but know!)

veganbikes

What are your thoughts on the bike after riding it? That is the biggest thing to let us know. If you like the bike and it does what you want it to do it is a likely going to be a good bike for you, it has decent enough components and with some wider tires it could be comfortable enough (it is aluminum on aluminum which isn't ideal for comfort).

In terms of belt drives, Gates has been in business since 1911 and has been making belts like this probably since then so they know belts well. Yes the bicycle division is slightly newer but they didn't reinvent anything they just made something that will work for a bicycle vs. a car or truck or something else. I have one on my commuter which is an S-Pedelec and if it wasn't for a crash where I actually hit the belt on a short curb and damaged it that way I would still be on my first belt 5k miles later.

Rick_D

My belt has perhaps 20k miles and am feeling a little guilty not changing it out "just because." Probably should while the OG Gates drive system is still around.

MikeDeason

The Priority bike mentioned above looks good but after shipping and assembly, I'm better off at a physical store.

I bought the bike today but could not test-ride one. They are bringing it in Wed to the store. The store owner said to bring it in after 1k km to have the fluid drained for shavings ($75) and after that every 10k km. I'll probably do this myself if it's not too difficult. Sounds like belt is ideal for me. Smoother shifting, no rust to worry about after driving salted winter roads, and fewer hassles all around. We shall see

I've been riding this bike since I bought it in 1999 so its got to be an improvement

Year 1999 Brake Levers Tektro S-77 Brakeset Tektro linear-pull brakes, Tektro S-77 levers Front Brake Tektro linear-pull Front Brake Lever Tektro S-77 Rear Brake Tektro linear-pull Rear Brake Lever Tektro S-77 Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-LP27, 110mm spindle Bottom Bracket Shell Width 68mm English Bottom Bracket Spindle Length 110mm Chain KMC Z-72, 1/2 x 3/32` Chain Size 1/2 x 3/32` Chainrings 22/32/42 Crankset Shimano AceraX, 22/32/42 teeth Front Derailleur Shimano Alivio top-swing, top-pull/clamp-on 28.6mm Front Derailleur Type top-pull/clamp-on 28.6mm Handlebar Unspecified Handlebar Extensions Not included Handlebar Stem Amoeba Head Tube Angle 71.0 Headset 1 1/8` threadless steel Headset Diameter 1 1/8` threadless Largest Rear Cog 34 Number of Rear Cogs 8-speed Pedals Victor resin VP-872 Rear Cogs 8-speed, 11 - 34 teeth Rear Derailleur Shimano Alivio Rear Shock Not applicable Rear Shock Travel Not applicable Saddle Velo VL-3000 Seat Post Diameter 26.4mm Seat Tube Angle 73.0 Seatpost aluminum micro-adjust, 26.4mm diameter Shift Levers Shimano Alivio RapidFire SL Smallest Rear Cog 11 Fork Crown unicrown Fork Material 4130 chromoly, unicrown crown Fork Travel Not applicable Frame Angles 71.0 head, 73.0 seat Frame Construction TIG-welded Frame Tubing Material 4130 chromoly main triangle/hi-tensile steel rear stays Chainstay Length 43.0cm Fork Rake 4.50cm Top Tube Length 54.4cm Wheelbase 104.7cm Front Hub Formula CO32-F Front Rim Alex X-101 Front Tire Kenda K-881 Front Tire Size 26 x 1.95` Rear Hub Shimano Alivio Rear Rim Alex X-101 Rear Tire Kenda K-881 Rear Tire Size 26 x 1.95` Spoke Brand Chung Nan stainless steel, 2.0mm straight gauge Spoke Gauge 2.0mm Spoke Holes 36-hole Spoke Material stainless steel Spoke Nipples brass nipples Spoke Type straight gauge Available Sizes 16`, 18`, 20`, 22` Brand Norco Component Group Mountain Mix Fork Norco Frame Material Steel Hubs Front: Formula CO32-F, Rear: Shimano Alivio Rims Alex X-101 Tires 26 x 1.95` Kenda K-881 Type Mountain Recommended Use - Suspension Non-Suspension

GamblerGORD53

$1700 is FAR overpriced for an 8 speed. Especially with no fenders, chain guard, dyno or rack. Straight bars are a pain on any road rides.
Hydo disc is way too popular for no good reason. My cable TRP Spyre needs no fiddles and stops on a dime.
The perfect city bike allrounder has a SA XL DRUM brake on the front at least.
Really hard to knock belt drive when there's guys using them 300 miles out in the middle of the Outback.

MikeDeason

From what I read online, a bike with Shimano Alfine 8 and a belt drive and hydraulic disc brakes is priced on average more than the one I bought.


Reading about the Alfine 8, it sounds perfect for my use. Not convinced I paid too much. Looks like a couple online options are slightly less and some slightly more. But I bought from a physical store which I prefer.

Calsun

I would buy something like this with its shock absorbing front shock and upright riding position and 40mm wide tires. The 40mm tires allow for lower tire pressures and a more comfortable ride with negligible loss in pedaling efficiency. On level ground the weight is not going to be a problem.

Or for a bike that is 4 lbs lighter there is this bike from Specialized that sells for twice as much. It has much wider tires that work better in very loose surfaces but are heavier than the ones on the REI bike.

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/ch...=319921-199640

MikeDeason

Picked up this bike today and ride it home. Not much to compare it to except 20yrs on the same 18speed but it’s very smooth and quiet and gear range is excellent considering it’s 8 speeds. I can climb like I could with. the 18

dumb question but there 2 pre drilled holes with screws in the down tube and 2 in the seat post tube. The ones in down tube are for a water bottle holder? ? What are others for

PeteHski

They are both bottle mounts.

hevysrf

Just as a data point, I purchased a spot acme with the alfine 11 last January, 2200 miles, 3 oil changes , belt appears as new.

My previous bike had a nexus 8, 3400 miles, one disassembly for greasing that was not needed.

SirLeaflock

I was going to suggest the Aquila over the priority 8 until I saw you already bought it! Looks like you probably got better wheels and a higher front sprocket if not better crackset overall. Is the belt a cdx belt? The priority comes with a a CDN, which isn’t rated to handle extreme cold. If you’re in Canada, having a CDX belt out of the box is great. I hope you enjoy your bike! I have a lower end priority Gotham with a 3 speed and commute year round now and sunk money into upgrading my belt so I’ll be able to use it on -0 F days. Can’t say I love the bike, but I’m sold on the IGH and belt for a bike that lives outside.

SirLeaflock

I found a listing on the RacerSportif site for 1288 USD. That’s looking for sure like a better deal than the priority Eight! Especially if you have a local dealer.

MikeDeason

I have a Racer Sportif store close. I bought in Canada.

I don’t see on the belt how to tell if it’s CDX winter rated or CDN. Can’t post a pic on this forum until 10 posts but there’s a bunch of numbers on the belt. Nothing indicating X or N

SirLeaflock

If the belt doesn’t say CDN on it, I’m guessing it’s a CDX. In the picture of the bike on the manufacturer site, I think I saw CDX on the front sprocket. I can’t imagine they’d opt for that sprocket without also using the higher quality belt. Gates has been east to reach by phone when I’ve had questions. They or the bike make can probably tell you for sure.

MikeDeason

Just rode up to the store and guy who sold it to me does not know if it’s CDX or CDN but says they’ve sold several over the years and belts hold up well in out harsh winters. None come back with cracked belt.

MikeDeason

Nevermind. It says CDX on the spindle. Not sure how I or guy at store missed that. Duh.