uprightbent

Can anyone speculate why the axle ends would've been hacked off the rear hub? The previous owner was riding the bike, and presumably kept the rear wheel locked into position, with a ton of stress on the axle unsupported inside the dropout? I was gonna rebuild these cool hubs which now seems like a waste of time. Would a spacer on either side be prudent, or just a band aid solution. I guess I could attempt to replace the axle, unless that's a proprietary and hard to source part being Weyless. The bearings are still smooth and the hubs should polish up nicely I'm told, otherwise they now seem headed for storage. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

unworthy1

What's the OLN width of the rear hub as-is?
Might have been a crude method to make a 126 hub fit 120 spacing (when PO could not find either shorter OEM Weyless axle ends or employ a machinist)?

I have a pair myself in the deep freeze (haven't yet found the wheels/bike to use them on) but my advice is don't throw anything away rashly: these are nice hubs worth preserving or bringing back to health.

I'll take a look later to see how the ends attach to the thru-axles...IIRC the original cartridge bearings on mine have strange phenolic/linen seals, rather than the common rubber over spring steel. Old bearings but still spin really smoothly!

unterhausen

I would just look for some different hubs. If they meant something to me I could make new caps. I can't imagine that's economic for someone that doesn't own a lathe.

unworthy1

Well, expedient, for sure, but where's the fun in ^that^ ?

So I can't share any pix (thanks again to iCloud) but did make a quick comparison and took a few masurements, here's some data points:

Weyless Front hub has what appear to be pressed-on spacers/end of Alu Alloy and main bodies (not the step-down that fits the DO slot) are about 15.4mm OD and 8mm "long",
so compared that to an early

Phil Wood Front hub (steel center barrel) which has apparently pressed-on ends of common tool steel (not SS, these have rust) about 15.8mm OD and 12mm "long"

Also have Rear Weyless hub, 121.4 OLN width with unequal spacer/ends and although both sides are alloy the longer DS has a serrated steel washer pressed on the outboard end, the NDS has no washer...weird. Plus this looks OEM since the remaining step-downs for DO slot are equal on both ends.
Spacer dimensions of this hub: 15.4mm OD, NDS (main body) is 19mm long; DS (including steel washer) is 23.4mm long.

I don't have an early Phil rear hub handy to compare, BUT my quick call would be take this butchered Weyless to Phil in San Jose and see if they would try to fit their own spacers (cut down of course) Or if they won't re-work their spacers at least they might confirm if they'd fit and sell you some...worth asking, anyhow.

I do have an American Classic rear hub and those spacers are much wider OD, also don't look like press-fitted.

uprightbent

The OLN width of the rear hub is 126mm.

Thanks!

Bad Lag

To me, it doesn't look "cut off" so much as broken/sheared/fatigued off with lots of damage to the surface after the event.

Schreck83 

Those locknuts shouldn’t be there. OLN without them may be 120.
Locknuts may have been added to make it fit a 126 frame.

juvela

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this looks like a job for gugie -ficazione


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repechage

Weyless skewers used a hollow oversized “rod”
unclear why, but if they were not using a he original Weyless skewers… just another reason to set them aside.

they can be salvaged, all it takes is time and machinery and a bit of material, tooling.

I would look elsewhere.
my hunch the original skewers are AWOL.

Bad Lag

Ding, ding, ding!

This is the answer to the puzzle. The lock nuts do not belong there.

uprightbent

Many thanks, this is clearly the problem. The knowledge base here is always spot on. The OLN does measure 120 minus those added locknuts. I'm gonna try to remove them and hope it'll stay intact.
Much appreciated.

unworthy1

just for reference, here are pix of my Weyless rear hub which I measured to be 121.4 OLN.
One could think that's a 120 hub with the extra 1.4mm due to the "addition" of the serrated steel washer on the DS end, but I don't think it's been added.
Also a pic of the end of the skewer which shows it's both larger than "normal" diameter and hollow.
Check 'em out:



DS with serrated "washer" and the tip has some damage which doesn't affect use

NDS end

hollow skewer

overview of hub and OR skewer

Schreck83 

It’s interesting that there is knurled washer on the drive side only, right where you need it.
The OPs may have it underneath the grime.

bulgie 

For getting the superfluous "locknuts" off, you might need to try heat, if they were attached with Loctite. Heat loosens Loctite.

If you want to polish them, you might want to try to remove the sticker with the two black racing stripes first. If you can get it off clean and unmolested, then maybe you can put them back on after polishing.
That serves no prectical purpose of course, but maybe preserve a tiny bit of cycling history.

About the 121.4 OLD: lots of Campy 5-sp hubs came out of the box at 121, so you're close enough. Older Campy standard was 120, but they seem to have changed that without (AFAIK) documenting it anywhere.

I have succeeded in geting those spring clips out, which allows you to remove the seals. Then you can wash the bearings in situ, blow 'em out with compressed air, and regrease. I think I used a dental pick to get the seal retainers out, but that was all 45 years ago so I'm not trusting my memory.

unworthy1

Good info, Thanks bulgie! (or is that you, Mark?)
I actually did remove the clips and seals on one (but can't remember which) of this pair of hubs some years back and serviced the "sealed" hubs just as you describe. But I was so leery of destroying the phenolic/fabric seals I decided to stop while I was ahead and left one hub as-is...and now I don't remember which it was!
Sometimes it really is best to "don't fix what ain't broke", but...I hardly ever follow that old saw!

repechage

Format fineline artist tape can help recreate the original graphics on the barrel.
I would only do so with the hub sans spokes.

Weyless - Designing The Future TM

almost bought in to the concept in 1975, did buy a seatpost for a Teledyne Titan. Very light.

uprightbent

Solid advice, the drive side locknut came right off revealing the serrated nut buried in the grime. Oddly it doesn't appear to be threaded so I guess it was really there as a spacer. Now that other side won't budge for now. I'll have to take the advice to heat it. Can't get a grip on the other end to keep from turning, and I don't wanna damage any finishes by gripping it.

unworthy1

heat for sure, but maybe also some good penetrating stuff (I like Kroil most of the time), and if you have small strap wrench you can wrap around the 19 mm end on that NDS side, it might give you a decent grip and do no damage to the end.
I just happen to acquire oddball tools like that and have several strap wrenches, even my largest/strongest one has a strap narrow enough to use on 19mm (3/4"), I think.