rsacilotto

I've searched through the forums for advice, but didn't quite find any specific advice, wondering if someone has done the same thing. I had spare wheels, bar-end shifters, etc... for a 9-speed conversion with little cost. I know from previous discussions that the cantis would be an iffy proposition. Sure enough, the pads are angled enough so that only the top part of the pad contacts the rim, and I'm not getting enough braking power.

It seems like my main options (in order of expense) are to a) let the pads wear in, b) get new brakes with vertical adjustability, c) get a new 700c fork with stem and maybe bars, and d) get new 27" 9-speed wheels.

I could just go back to the original wheels and drivetrain, but only if d) is the only viable option.

I use this bike mainly as a commuter, and I'm really more concerned about function and not spending a ton of money than period-correctness (I, know - heresy!)

Questions:

1) Could I drill some adjustment into the current dia-compe brake arms? would I be risking brake arm failure?

2) If option b) is reasonable, what is a good specific option for replacement brakes?

Thanks for any advice

By the way, I tried the bar-end shift cable routing method of running the housing all the way around the bars to come out with the brake cable housing. It did require long shift cables, but so far the shift action is fine and I like the look better than my previous method of looping the cable housing from the drops.

FrenchFit 

Well, I will make a irrelevant post and say I have a '90 Voyageur and wouldn't think of changing out the stock configuration. My God, if you want all those changes just buy a bike with those components; the Voyageur is meant to be a light heavyweight tourer and works great with its stock equipment. The 'heresy' is the bike works great for 100 miles rides with a load; trying to turn it a sprint bike is trying to makeover a minivan into a sportscar.

Henry III

You just have to find an arm with a lot of adjustability. I absolutey hate 27 wheels so it's one reason I changed my Schwinn Sports Tourer I had and converted it to 700c. That had calipers though so it was a little easier to convert. I have a set of cantilevers that allow the mounts for the pads to slide up and down the arms. There are no slots just a round tubular arms. The Paul Motolites have the same concept as my cantilevers but are v brakes but use the same idea.

fender1

These:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-XT-M...#ht_500wt_1202

or these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DEOR...ht_6356wt_1185

Both will work. I have done 27" to 700c conversions with these on 86/87 Schwinn Passages.

rsacilotto

Hardly a sprint bike, the conversion has nothing to do with lightness. I like having more options with a 700c configuration (cassettes, tires mostly) and I like a wider range of gearing while keeping smaller steps - the 9-speed gives me that. I have a 11-32 mountain cassette with Deore long-cage derailer and a triple in front. Here's a picture (pardon the fredly reflectors)...

FrenchFit 

Love 27" wheels and 29ers. Big wheels for big guys.

ColonelJLloyd 

Here's my 1988 Voyageur with the original Dia Compe 983s. They work great for me with 700c wheels. Try Kool Stop Thinlines and I'll bet you'll be in business soon.





VO Grand Cru cantilevers also worked.

rsacilotto

The VO set is gorgeous, but a little pricey for this project. Looking at your second photo, the angle of the pad seems a lot more level than mine - perhaps the bosses on my frame are situated a little differently. Do you think drilling the brake arms to provide a vertical slot is hazardous?

rsacilotto

On further inspection, my rear brakes are fine, it's only the front that has an issue. It seems that there is enough room to get 2-3mm of adjustment by drilling, that may cover it unless it's just a bad idea mechanically.

ColonelJLloyd 

I would try the Thinlines before I modified the brakes.

fietsbob

some brake calipers have more adjustment, than others,

as shown in #7 bottom picture,
with a longer post on a brake shoe. the pad can meet the rim lower..
as the caliper is rotated outwards.

ColonelJLloyd 

^ Yes, that's why the Thinlines help.

Drakonchik

Shimano Deore LX BR-M454 will get the pads lower than anything already mentioned with the possible exception of the Pauls.

Or any other Shimano canti with a series number from M454 to M550.

rsacilotto

light bulb just went off... Colonel and fietsbob, thanks for the suggestions - sorry for being so dense, I didn't think of using the post to fix the angle, I was more focused on the angle of the arm relative to the frame. I'm new to cantis, and haven't fully learned how they work yet. The Jagwire pads have a long enough post that they now are more or less lined up correctly. Just for curiosity, is there any potential brake force issues with the calipers rotated outward? Also, I only got the Jagwire pads because LBS had no other options - I have KoolStop on my other bikes, will probably buy some and swap them if I don't feel that I'm getting enough performance.

Drakonchik

Hate to be negative but that's a very sub-optimal attack angle between the brake arm and the cable.

Ideally you want 90 degrees or approaching 90 at the moment the pads contact the rim walls..

Standalone 

I prefer 6/7/8 speed for touring. It's more durable.

I had a lot of trouble converting my '84 620 canti to 700c so I bought new 27" wheels for it.

rsacilotto

That's what I'm not sure about. I could split the difference, is that enough?

ColonelJLloyd 

You're getting closer, but you don't want your straddle cable interfering with the cantilevers themselves. You need to choke up on the brake posts and shorten your straddle cable. The reason I suggested the Thinlines is that they will allow you to choke up even further. I'll try and snap a clear photo later.

Edit: Here ya go.

that_guy_zach

I had Dia Compes on mine with 700s. I think they were the 980s?

rsacilotto

Thanks to all for advice, I think I got the brakes set up decently now, looks about like Justin's setup (beautiful, by the way!!). I don't know if it's just me, but cantis are a pain in the neck to adjust -lots of variables and not easy to get everything lined up while tightening the nuts on the pad retaining bolts.

I will likely look around for some Thinline pads when I get the chance.

IndianaShawn

Very good looking bicycle........congratz

Creme Brulee

what size tires are those on that voyageur? i have one i haven't built up yet and i want to put the largest tires possible on there in addition to fenders... those look pretty good!

Drakonchik

Ditto what the Colonel said about Thinlines.

rsacilotto

The tires are Panaracer Pasela 700cx32, but I had 35s on the original 27" wheels. The fenders are SKS P45 Chromoplastic with Planet Bike Cascadia mudflaps.

To be honest, I got the Paselas for cost, and have no idea how well they will hold up to road use. I use the bike for a 32-mile round trip commute over mostly decent pavement, hopefully they will be okay.

ColonelJLloyd 

It's not just you. Cantilevers are lightweight and very effective brakes, but they are tedious to setup well.

I'm running Panaracer Jack Brown tires that measure right around 35mm. The tightest spot is the fork crown.