ShannonM

It's been at least 10 years since I built a wheel, and I've forgotten most of what little I knew.

I'm accumulating parts for a 650b conversion on my '85 League Fuji, because Humboldt County roads suck, so wide tires are good things, and also it rains a lot, so fenders are a must.

Rims: Velocity A23s, with the offset center rear.
Hubs: Velo-Orange Grand Cru high-flange. 126mm freewheel rear. (I bought the closeout with the old logo, cuz for 45 bucks, why wouldn't I?)
Spokes: 14/15 double butted, not committed to a brand. The three sets of wheels I've built all used 14g DTs.

The thing is, I'm having some analysis paralysis when it comes to lacing pattern. I think I remember that 4-cross is considered correct for a 36-spoke, 700C wheel on a low-flange hub, due to the spokes being as close to tangential to the hub flange, but I don't know how or if that changes with rim diameter and/or hub flange diameter. Another consideration is that QBP's spoke calculator gives 266 right / 267 left for 3-cross and 278/276 for 4-cross... and spokes come in even lengths. How much does 1mm matter, especially with an off-center drilled rim?

--Shannon

ThermionicScott 

I've only done 3-cross with my 36-spoke wheels, and they've held up great. I doubt it makes a huge difference. Consider skinnier spokes for the NDS, maybe DT Revs or Sapim Lasers.

KCT1986

3 cross should be fine. With the minimal dish of this combo of OS rim/hub, 3 cross should be plenty strong.

1mm in spoke length should be no problem. You are using brass nipples, correct?

Don't know where QBP targets for spoke end/nipple location, but assuming bottom of screwdriver slot or top of nipple head, 1mm short is fine.

Andrew R Stewart 

Agreed that 3x vs 4x is a minor difference in ride "quality". Tire air pressures, their suppleness and spoke tensions paly bigger roles. Andy

TPL

Pay attention to the angle of the nipple as it exits the I.D. of the rim ....you probably do not want the nipple to be 'cocked' anymore than needed

veloz

I’d be confident using 3 cross using OCR A23’s. Should be near bulletproof and a great build.

HillRider

What are you doing to make the rim brakes reach the new smaller diameter rims? It's pretty certain your '85 Fuji doesn't have disc brakes.

JohnDThompson 

3x ought to be fine. Depending on the hub flange diameter, 4x might be difficult with 650B diameter rims.

Bill Kapaun

+1 I'm with John on this.
You know 3X will NOT cause ANY kind of problem.
4X has that element of doubt. (as small as it may be)
I'm in the same boat as you. I haven't built enough wheels to experience the little nuances that might bite ya re: larger hub diameters/small dia. rims.
I don't see any reason that 4X would be "enough better", if at all, over 3X. Especially if you are going to fatter tires which will absorb a lot of peak impacts.
3X would probably save the weight of a spoke or so vs 4X.
Build it right and you won't have a problem.

ShannonM

Probably Tektro R539s. Centerpulls would give better fender clearance, and likely would feel better in my hands, (I'm one of those weirdos who finds dual-pivot brakes too light in the levers,) but good ones aren't cheap and cheap ones aren't good. Plus, I'm guessing that the greater flex of a long-reach caliper would make for a slightly heavier, more squeezier lever, which is what I prefer.

That said... the Velo-Orange / Dia-Compe 610s are really, really pretty...

--Shannon