Paul Waque 

Great bike. That long cage derailleur is a nice touch, I would be happy with a larger range freewheel on mine.

Perhaps you are aware of this, the band clamp on the front derailleur is quite fragile. I think that the issue is that it can be over-tightened.

AdventureManCO 

Wow, just an incredible story. Incredible.

dbhouston 

Lunchtime: gentle T-Cut, dabs of Sharpie's industrial black marker, first layer of carnauba. Probably all this frame needs:


I have a good set of thin-walled sockets and haven't found a crank bolt they couldn't reach, including these. Found a CCP-1 on EBay bundled with other Park items for a great price. Maillard tool seems to be a bit trickier to come by in North America.

The freewheel on there now is 14-28, which seems pretty big for the vintage but awfully small when you usually ride modern bikes!

steelbikeguy

The 1974 catalog shows a 14-24 freewheel, which is a good match for the short cage Jubilee derailleur.
14-28 freewheels were almost the standard for bikes that weren't intended for racing, though. It is weird how even road racing bikes are sporting larger cogs in back now. Must have something to do with having a dozen cogs in back to choose from, I suppose?



Steve in Peoria

52telecaster

I'm guessing the addition of the 14-28 coincided with the long cage.

steelbikeguy

Yeah, probably after the sale of the bike?
I'm impressed that the owner went with the long cage Jubilee, though. My instinct would have been a SunTour VGT... although maybe that isn't compatible with the Huret dropout?
I've been blissfully ignorant of the unique details of French specs, and hope to remain that way.

Steve in Peoria

repechage

huret form factor, the Jubilee has the aesthetics, bright, smooth and shiny.
I could not use those pedals though- too narrow, my ankles are canted inboard.
they also are not as wide front to back either. I like having one set up of cleats, based on the Campagnolo form factor, Lyotard 65's are cool to keep it European. Or Olympic pedals from Spain.

52telecaster

Almost certainly the dropout is huret specific. It is on my frame. If they wanted more chain wrap, the easiest method would have been the long cage huret. I have the short cage on a 73 and it will do 28 teeth on the freewheel so I imagine the long cage does it very well.

dbhouston 

I can say the dropout seems specific to this derailleur, which has a nut on the inside to hold it in place.

Put back on all the parts that are cleaned and lubed and bearinged up, just to stare at it, mostly. Left to do:

• Ordered the old Park Tool TA crank remover, so that'll come off next weekend and I can see about the BB. Also, half of that pretty Specialties TA decal on the drive side came right off, so I'll get it glued back on.
• Haven't ordered the Maillard tool, but most options for doing so are in eastern Europe! That wheel may stay as is for a while. The front wheel bearings don't have a dust cap to make cleaning easier, but it feels good now and the old bearings were fine and went back in. It was sticky and dry, so I suspect the rear is, too.
• Bars and brake levers are as they came. That tape looks nice, but I don't think it would feel nice. I may make a change, which would allow me to move the levers, too.
• I've ordered a standard, midrange Jagwire cable set, though I'll try to reuse the old ribbed outers at the bars just because they're neat.
• Time to make some tubular decisions.
  • Tried to clean the dried glue off the rims with both acetone and Goo Gone (or the other brand, I don't remember), but neither seemed to make much progress with a llittle soaking time for the latter. Maybe need to go at it with a wire brush. From what YouTube University tells me, scuffing up the mating surface isn't a bad thing.
  • The brake tracks are 19mm apart, and the curved surface for adhering the tire is more like 15-16mm. That must play a part in limiting tire width?
  • I've got some passable alloy clincher rims and a selection of freewheels and tires, so maybe I'll just swap out the wheels for now. Otherwise, I'm buying the Maillard tool, tubular tires, and adhesive or tape, all while learning a new art form that most seem to have abandoned.

So far, so good. Too easy, really. But it'll be beautiful when it's done. Thanks for the advice and feedback!

repechage

Finding tubular tires beyond 28mm that are of tolerable price will be the challenge.

from way back 32mm was about max as that was the UCI cyclocross racing limit.

wire wheel or brush will get the rims clean enough, stripping off the glue completely was rarely done.

23 would be the min section tire I would suggest. There is a totally tubular thread that is now long but has decent information

my only note- mount the tires first without adhesive and pump up to pressure- overnight will verify holding air and will stretch them.
obviously no riding that way.
some cheaper tires like the Vittoria rally won't seat well near the valve- those become a spare. I bought a case and two are so afflicted.

curbtender

Not a Atom freewheel?

PhotonDon

Shoot! I just asked the seller about this bike. He hasn't marked it as sold yet. Enjoy it!!

USAZorro

The difference is subtle. Note the near 90 degree difference in the position of the protrusion where the stop screw would contact. Note that neither image is mine. I borrowed them for the sake of illustration.

SJX426 

@dbhouston keep the wheels. Upgrade to decent sewups. A bit expensive but Vittoria Corsa G+ or variation will wow you. No comparison to lower priced tubulars.
build or buy a clincher set.

dbhouston 

Glad I rushed out to get it on Sunday, then!

Chuck M 

I was just looking at it too. His pictures were awful. The OP was lucky to get on this like a chicken on a June bug.

PhotonDon

Yep. I was asking him to post a drive side pic of the entire bike. OP got a score

dbhouston 

Sure, not great pics. But they show enough with the text that there was almost no chance I wasnt bringing this home at that reduced price. Super nice guy, and he knew what he had. Just needed it gone.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...7277896722336/

79pmooney

+1 Those Corsa G+ are nice! Rode Cycle Oregon on the 28c last September. Picked up one goathead per tire and just had the mechanic there add an ounce or so of Bontranger latex sealant. SInce trhen I"ve added anothger ounce, now Orange Seal.

OP, you measured the rim width and you are concerned with tire width. Don't sweat it. Just remember - the wider the tire and/or lower the pressure, the better the glue job needs to be on a hard corner. Cyclocross racers need better glue jobs than the Tour de France racers.

I just measured my Mavic GP4s. 21mm. Your 19s aren't narrow. I bet that was my old Arc en Ciel width. Likewise bet my old racing Fiamme Ergals were 17mm. I never put big tires on the Ergals but I wouldn't have thought twice aboutit if three was a reason to do it.

Edit: those Corsa G+ - Vittoria went back to my favorite ever tire tread pattern for those. Ribs. Ribs have one feature where they excel and it is one that might save you hide. It is the tread that wants to climb out of ruts and back onto the road pavement. Turn those ribs toward the side of that rut and they say "I'm going up! Just watch!" Two examples: for a while in my early racing days; the stone age, everybody was on tubulars. I was riding orange tread Vittoria cottons.. My first open race - pouring rain. I quickly learned that orange is slippery in the wet! Late in the race, I was trying to move up and doing so on the left. Beside me was a cobbled median strip 1" lower than the adjacent road. Well someone moved over toward me and I didn't have the confidence to push him back so I moved left. Cobbles! Bounce, bounce! I had to get back on that road. But it's wet! "Going for it!" Aggressively steered the front tire into the pavement edge. It climbed right up. The rear followed. And it all happened despite being slippery orange and everything being absurdly wet.

And 2018 or so when I first discovered the "clincher: Corsa G+. Riding a rural 2 lane road with 50+ mph traffic. Solid line of traffic coming against me, no one behind me. Well the last car decides to pass. Hot Camaro type. And he's coming at me at around 70. No shoulder. Just as he is arriving, the pavement widens 2' at the start of a dirt road into a farm field. I take it, Car whizzes by. Whew! And "I gotta back quick! There's a ditch in front of me!" Crank the steering over just as I ride onto a pile of dirt and gravel. I saw it but it was go straight and crash for sure or turn and probably crash. Those ribbed tread G+ (super compound) tires just turned back to the road like it was no big deal. "I'm sold!"

Vittoria back in the day seemed to use the ribbed tread more than anyone else. (I never really knew. Most tubulars came with no information beyond the label which was often not the maker. I bought training tires from Palo Alto Cycles most of the time. Roughly 300gm cottons and the label was whatever it was. All I can say with confidence now is "thank you, Vittoria, for bring that tread back!"

dbhouston 

I've never looked at tubulars before, but find it reassuring that so many people report good results with sealant. I'm a committed convert to tubeless, so this sounds promising.

So, something like 25mm is okay on these rims? That's a real improvement over 23s for comfort.

Edit: I see your added comments and I promise I'm too old for racing onto cobbles in the rain! But grip is gold, so I'll look at the Corsas.

mhespenheide 

That's beautiful.

backmd

After paying the shop 20 bucks to get the crank off I bit the bullet and got the Stein freewheel tool, like 40 bucks for the Stronglight crank tool.

dbhouston 

This is effectively a working mockup of the bike.

• The TA crank and the BB will come off this weekend and get a good service.
• The tires are just hung on there to help me understand tubs. I think I get it now, and 25s wouldn't be too wide at all. Guess I'll bite the bullet and order something. Tufo tape already on the way.
• Freewheel and rear hub would benefit greatly from some service and the wheel a little truing. Another bullet to bite on the Maillard tool, but it'll look nice on the wall next to the other once-in-a-blue-moon FW tools!

This bike has been almost too easy, but it going to be pretty sweet.

52telecaster

Any tool you buy will eventually get used again. Never a bad move to buy more tools.

dbhouston 

That's what my father has always said, and I've always lived by it. That was a great rule when I just did simple DIY things around the old houses I've lived in. But since I got sucked into cycling, it's become an expensive one!