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Promax DC-310 disc brake manual

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Promax DC-310 disc brake manual

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Old 02-14-19, 09:21 AM
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rumrunn6
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Promax DC-310 disc brake manual

anyone have access to an old manual for the 310 model? the oldest I seem to be able to find on the internet is for #717
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Old 02-14-19, 09:41 AM
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What do you need to know about the brakes?

It looks to be a fairly basic low end mechanical disc brake.
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Old 02-14-19, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by cobba
What do you need to know about the brakes? It looks to be a fairly basic low end mechanical disc brake.
no problems with them, everything is working fine, but I got some pads I was thinking about swapping in. I've watched videos on-line so I don't think I'll need instructions but since I was canvassing information sources, I thought I would ask before I dive in. There are some really nice PDF instructions w color photos available for later models & thought it would be nice to have. here are some pics I took this morning & here are a cpl preliminary questions

what screw adjusts caliper proximity? (I think it's the big one in the middle of the bump-out, but on the inside near the wheel)
do I need to back it off before swapping pads or can I just push the piston? with a screw driver?
do I need to remove the assembly from the bike?












Last edited by rumrunn6; 02-14-19 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 02-14-19, 11:00 AM
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Generically, you have a screw on the inside, for the fixed pad , and its wear adjustment ..

Outside . moving pad , I just use the cable clamp on the actuating arm ..


although you do have that cable adjuster .. for a little adjustment of the outside pad.. (Avid BB5, etc. , same idea)
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Old 02-14-19, 12:29 PM
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what screw adjusts caliper proximity? (I think it's the big one in the middle of the bump-out, but on the inside near the wheel)
do I need to back it off before swapping pads or can I just push the piston? with a screw driver?
do I need to remove the assembly from the bike?
1. Yes sounds about right
2. Release all tension from the cable and then back off using the adjustment screw. It is not a hydraulic brake so you don't need to push the pistons in...and if you had to, you definitely would not use a screwdriver.
3. Depends on how fine your motor skills are but probably not.
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Old 02-14-19, 02:10 PM
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thanks guys

Last edited by rumrunn6; 02-14-19 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 02-14-19, 08:00 PM
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for my future reference when I come back to this thread to do it again
the clips come out the top with thin pliers & the pads come out the bottom, one at a time
putting them back in, again one at a time. takes a little while to get one in, in such a way that there's room for the other to slide in. best to do it sitting down rather than hunched over. good lighting helps
used a small thin screwdriver to help tuck one pad in on one side, so I could get the other in

visually, they look pretty good compared to the new ones. the front pads measure 2mm or better. some guide said replace them at 1.5mm or thinner, so I put them back in
I did mark them so I would know which was inside & outside, but at this point they seem fairly equal

front






one side


other side


rear: did not bother taking them out, cuz they look fine too. maybe I'll pull them when I mount up the summer tires


put the wheels back on & everything spins & stops perfectly. like I said originally, wasn't having any issues. but feel good about checking them so closely. hopefully, I won't lose the new pads before I need them!

Last edited by rumrunn6; 02-15-19 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 08-10-22, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by rumrunn6
wasn't having any issues. but feel good about checking them so closely. hopefully, I won't lose the new pads before I need them!
meanwhile ... since then, I've changed them twice
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